Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
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Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
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Okay, here is this weekend's update. I just realized this is probably my longest consecutive posting in a while. :lol:
I received my cab corners and other parts from Tabco, and ordered my floor pan from JEGS. I am waiting until the floor pan is received to work on the cab, so I am working on smaller projects in the meantime. I think I'll start with what my goals were for today, and what I actually accomplished. 1. Replace shocks. 2. Attach Torque Converter to Flywheel 3. Add washer to motor mount bolts. What I accomplished: 1. Replace 1 shock. 2. Attached Torque Converter to Flywheel. 3. Added washer to one of the motor mount bolts. Of course, things can't go easy for me :waah:, so here's what happened. Shocks: On Friday night, I removed the P/S shock (it did not come out easy). Had to go to Lowe's to get some hardware, so I continued Saturday morning. The replacement shocks I picked are heavy duty Gabriel Shocks, and they are not compressed. After jacking up the truck, I had about 3/4" to go to get the bolt to meet the shock. I spent several hours trying different methods of getting it to line up. About 4 hours later, I used my other car jack to lower the axle and got it installed. The edge of the shock is touching the rear axle, but my friend told me not to worry about it, so I won't. 4 hours to install one shock. Nice. As my friend put it, "If you did this for a living, you would starve to death." Flywheel / Converter attachment: On Friday night, I started this, but the bolts were kind of shot. Went to Lowe's and got new hardware. After installing the shock, I worked on this, and thankfully something when easy. Motor Mounts: On Friday night, I removed the P/S bolt and added the washer - no problem whatsoever. Then I removed the D/S bolt and added the washer; somehow the engine shifted and the hole is no longer perfectly lined up. This sucks. Wasted an hour trying to fix it last night; did not bother with it today. On Thursday evening, I removed the driveshaft. The intent was to install it in the transmission, however I realized that the center support bearing was shot. Ordered a new one and a couple of U-Joints from Rock Auto. Never used them before; I was surprised at how cheap the parts were. |
Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
Changed my mind - the end of the shock touching the axle is bothering me. Unless anyone else thinks it's not a big deal?
I am going to call Autozone and Gabriel on Monday about it. Wondering if Autozone sent the wrong shock? Of course I bought them in June of last year, so not sure I can do much about it. Wondering if I could make an adapter to move the bottom mount of the shock out a bit? |
Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
I'm pretty sure the shock relocation kit from CPP will move your shock out from the rear axle enough to clear with room to spare.
Here is a link. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-64-65-6...item58a0410820 The rear suspension is going to be seriously stiff with those coil over shocks on there. You need to use a spring compressor on those coil over shocks and the installation will be a lot easier, you can borrow one from o'reilly's and most other auto parts stores that loan tools. |
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I thought about borrowing a spring compressor from Autozone, but it was such a small space I needed to cover, and they are not that close to me. Using the jack worked out fine. |
Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
No need to call CPP, a picture is worth a thousand words, these are Monroe Magnums which are larger diameter than standard shocks installed with CPP's shock relocation kit and there is tons of clearance.
http://i.imgur.com/sqnBUyvl.jpg |
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Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
Here are some more angles of the lower CPP shock relocation bracket.
http://i.imgur.com/GQvfTXZl.jpg I haven't installed the CPP upper shock relocation brackets yet because my suspension crossmember needs completely replaced. http://i.imgur.com/DJPxhsol.jpg |
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It looks pretty good the way it is. Would I even need to relocate the top if I move the bottom over an inch? |
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Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
Ok, so it probably took me longer than it needed to, but then again everything does, but I finally got the floor pan removed. It seems like the braces are holding up nicely. Unfortunately, I procrastinated on picking up the weld through primer, and now I am stuck without it, and probably have to wait a bit before I can start cleaning up the contact areas.
It's also taking up more space in my garage because of the position it's in and that I can't move it right now. Will probably order some primer from Amazon two day or next day delivery. I was thinking about hiring a place to soda blast the cab for me, but I realize that it's not practical until the floor is installed and the cab can be moved. Hopefully putting the new floor in won't be too bad. Got the back out: http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ Front almost out: http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ Finally it's all done: http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ |
Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
Wow that's a lot of work to remove the floor pan, nice job Darien.
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Hopefully putting the new one in will go well. Still seems easier than repairing the floor. |
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Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
So, I finally got around to getting out there and cleaning up the contact area for the floor. Baby steps, what can I say? We were out of town last week on a work / vacation trip to Maine. Just plenty of stuff going on that has kept me from the truck.
Anyway, I am having trouble getting to the area where the metal bends. I am thinking I may either have to soda blast it, which will be messy since I can't move the cab out of the garage in it's current state, or use a Dremel, which will take long. I suppose another option might be a wire brush; I will just need to be careful of how much pressure I use. Any thoughts? Here are some pics of what I did and the area I need to get to. I am probably also going to spray some of Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator on the underneath of the floor. My friend told me not to use undercoating now because it will be too messy and cause problems. I figure the Encapsulator is a harmless way of adding some protection beforehand. Before: http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ After cleaning: http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ After Weld through primer. You can see I still need to clean the bottom half better. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ And here is the front of the cab, equally difficult to clean in the corner: http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ |
Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
Yeah a wire wheel will clean it up nicely.
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Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
Yeah any time I need to strip the rust off of a convex or concave surface or in cracks and crevices I use a wire wheel on my side angle grinder and it shines it up like new.
Just remember to wear safety glasses and a long sleeve shirt and jeans, unless you of course you like getting poked by high velocity flying needles. |
Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
I like the wire wheel and a 3M clean and strip disc to clean those tight spots followed by epoxy primer rather than the weld through primer, it is catalyzed and has better corrosion resistance properties, like the rust encapsulator. If I were you I would not spray the underside until you have welded the part in to save material. Great job so far on the skill development the lessons you have learned will serve you well installing the floor.
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Also, it seems easier to use the encapsulator while the floor is off the cab. I am not going to spray the areas that will be welded. How will I be wasting material? The undercoating will wait until the cab is done. Thanks for the compliment. I have learned a lot so far, and getting tips and advice from other board members has been invaluable. |
Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
So today, I did a bit more cleanup of the contact areas for the floor. Had to do a bit of a balancing act with the cab at first; the lift shifted and was no longer supporting the cab all the way through both windows. Of course then everything else shifted, and I thought I would lose the cab. But I got it under control and managed to fix everything. I wish I could put the cab on it's back, but I don't have anyone to help. This is working anyway; it's not ideal, but it does the job.
I used the wire brush to clean up the back and front of the cab where the floor meets. Then I used a wire brush on my Dremel for the areas the big wire brush could not reach; it actually worked better than I thought it would. The right side of the lip at the firewall was kinda messed up; partly because it was a pain to separate the floor in that spot, and partly because it's an area where I did my first BAD weld job. Again, the Dremel came in very handy. Worse case scenario, I still have a fabricated lip piece that Dan made and gave me, if I decide to replace this section of the lip. Cleaned it up as best I could, painted on some weld-through primer and called it a day. I need to give the primer time to dry properly, and it was a pretty chilly day. Hopefully next weekend I can get the floor in - it's probably the last decent weather we will have for a while. Messed up lip section: http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ Cleaned up kind of okay: http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ After weld primer: http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4...D720/ry%3D480/ |
Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
I have seen studies done with welded samples in salt spray where metal coupons were sprayed with various anti corrosion compounds then exposed to the salt spray in a special chamber and the coupons that were sprayed with epoxy and then welded had less rust creep than any weld through primer that was tested. I usually spray the entire new part, flanges to be welded and areas that with be enclosed after welding. Before I weld I clean off the primer in the area to be welded by using a drill bit I ground flat. After welding I use a brush to let epoxy run into the welded flange then seam seal. When I have the project painted I use 3M Rustfighter "I" with a long wand to spray inside all enclosed areas (rockers, cab supports ect.) this is the closest we can get to OEM corrosion protection short of dipping the parts. Rustfighter I is a wax based solution that is self healing and runs for several days, that is the reason you have to wait until a painting is done. The way you are doing the repairs will work fine (I would still use a drill bit and clean the weld through primer out of the weld area since the primer just burns off in the plug weld anyway).
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I will have to think about that step. While I intend to plug weld in the areas where I have pre-existing holes from removing the floor, I also hope to use my spot welder, assuming it fits in the area I need to weld. My issue is that I am not sure I know exactly where I will be welding prior to having the floor installed. I am not sure I want to go through the steps of installing the floor, marking off the welding areas, removing the floor, cleaning the paint off, and reinstalling the floor. But it is something to think about. Very nervous about doing the plug welds. Not my strong suite, and I certainly don't want to screw up a $500 floor panel. Hopefully I can get someone I know to help with that step. Thanks! |
Re: Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...
I was only talking about the areas you were plug welding;). I have students make some practice welds on the same materials at the same angle to get comfortable with it before you weld your parts.
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