Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
You know I'm waiting...you messing with me?
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
Bump.
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
Well, I am back !. so after my last post on this thread everything came to a shrieking halt due to my dad getting sick and ended up passing away on August 12th 2014. Not too much longer after my dad passed away my Mom got sick and passed away two years later almost to the day of my dads passing on August 20th 2016 and my truck had not been touched the whole time, just sitting and collecting dust. I just had no drive to finish it, lost interest. Its now time ! I tried several times to just go work on it but it never got far. I figured one day would come and I would be all in with the same enthusiasm I had when I first started this project, I believe that time is here. I have been lurking around and reading my old posts and build thread and am very greatful to this site because of the valuable documentation I had put on here and now I know where I left off, and whats been done, its been a lifesaver on this build and so nice to be able to get back on here { after finally remembering my user name and password :confused: } and get started again and hopefully get this thing finished. Anyways I will be asking a lot of questions as before :lol: so hopefully I can get the same support from everyone that is willing to help. Feels good to be back :chevy:
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
Sorry to hear about your parents, that's rough. But good to see you back on the project.
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
Welcome back - I've been in similar shoes to the ones you've been wearing and its not an enjoyable experience. It did drive some great things in my life, it just took its sweet time. I wish the same for you.
We're here if you need us! |
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
Well, for the past week or so I have been clearing my garage, removing junk that piled on my truck and truck bed, it turned into a storage shelf so to speak for the past five years, Also took inventory of the parts I have and cleaned underneath, above and inside. I removed it off the jack stands and replaced the tires and wheels with some stock factory steel wheels I found on CL with some hub caps for now, the tires that were on it had gone flat and were pretty well dry rotted. All I have to do now is get my tools in order then try to figure out my next plan of attack on the truck. Got the day off today from work so I guess I better get started...back on here later !
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
Ok got my garage somewhat orderly and tools all in one place again but need to spend one more day just to get everything in order. I'm a bit ocd about having my surroundings where I work to be clean and know where everything is at, otherwise I just cant function lol !. Check back in tomorrow
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
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Ok so my garage is at an acceptable working environment now and I spent some time mulling around the truck, mostly underneath, I remember back then I had run into this problem below regarding this previous transmission cross member brace see below
Attachment 1885314 Does this look like a factory crossmember ? or is this an add on someone istalled ? I did buy a transmission crossmember for this combo truck and tranny do I need to cut this thing off ? Attachment 1885315 what do you guys think ? what would you do ? Attachment 1885316 |
Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
Definitely not factory. I cant see how its bolted in, but you should be able to slide it back and drill some new holes to make it work. As for the mount, if you get one for a 72 truck it will bolt on with two bolts that should line up with the holes in the crossmember. Or I guess you could just drill a hole in the center for the stud, but the bolts are easier to work with in my opinion.
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
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And if you do decide to use a tubing crossmember the mount tab needs to be on top of it...you can see where the tube is hitting the rubber in your pic...
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Like this...mount tab on top of tube instead of on bottom side of tube...
if yours is welded in now, it won't work as is anyway.. But like Eric said...be better off with a factory one |
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
That home made crossmember may be throwing your pinion angle off if the trans height is wrong.
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I have been spending time on the wiring. the rear lighting harness needs to be replaced and I will be ordering a new one from LMC soon. |
Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
Welcome back man!
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
Just a thought, but if you have a floor jack and a block of wood, jack it up, remove the crossmember and flip it over. It just needs a hole drilled in it.
If with is welded in and you don't have the equipment, it will take a lot work at a shop depending on flat rate for labor. This one is not in the book...it's tech time multiplied by customer pay. Many post and experienced folks have discussed drive-line angles. A magnetic HF angle gauge with the transmissions crossmember out, use the floor jack to find the correct angle at the front, then measure across the frame to find out where it needs to live...with future exhaust requirements. The rear axle want to climb upward when accelerating, but a minimum of 1/2 of 1 degree is the least anyone should place u-joints under load. These trailing arms on these trucks hold the rear axel well as compared to leaf spring suspensions. This was discussed in GM's "Vibration analysis class". There several good vid's on youtube. Use the flat on each u-joint to find angles, then the math. Have u-joint movement rotates the u-joint needle bearings back & forth to keep them from being in one position all of the time. This helps reduce u-joint failure. Maybe it's already been discussed during other post in the thread, but important. |
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Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
On vehicles with leaf springs, the diff will move up in front as you accelerate. With a 67 -72 C10, C20 using lower control arms, the differential is locked to the movement of the control arms. So, hit the gas, the diff climbs the ring gear, that motion is transferred to the housing. It is captured, so the differential rises toward the floor, as the back end bed drops.
The nose of the differential rises up to be more inline with the tail shaft of transmission. This position is normal under hard drive, but drops at cruise. So, place the rear u-joint with a flat on top. Place some weight in the back bed like 200 lbs. This will drop the bed, but raise they differential since it's captured. Take a measurement on the top of the rear u-joint. make note. Compare that measurement to the unloaded empty bed on the u-joint at the same top position. Do the same at the transmission front u-joint top when flat while empty, take note. Even when the bed is full or not, the front u-joint does not move anything noticeable, take measurement. The two angle should be at least 1/2 of 1 degree to 2 degrees of difference. You should be in range of good u-joint movement and no acceleration / deceleration within the u-joint range. Should be good to go. (Note: If stock height info, good...lowered or raised, angles may have to be modified as needed) Good build. Late reply, I am sorry. Bad doctor news today for 60 year old guy...all bad! I'll let it go. You have a "Best if Used By Date" it's just to read in a mirror! We don't last forever. |
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Sorry to hear about your doctors appointment, I hope its nothing too serious and you can get better. Your right we don't last forever and that's one of the reasons I want to get this truck done, while I still have the ability to do so. 60 is still young Im not too far behind you and starting to move real slow :lol: again thanks for your help ! |
Re: Need advice: LS ENGINE SWAP
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Sorry to hear about your doctors appointment, I hope its nothing too serious and you can get better. Your right we don't last forever and that's one of the reasons I want to get this truck done, while I still have the ability to do so. 60 is still young Im not too far behind you and starting to move real slow :lol: again thanks for your help ! |
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