Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Good eye Mike! Indeed that is where the latest picture was taken. They’ve made a lot of improvements to the grounds and parking area making it even more enjoyable to visit.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Your truck looks great Mark! The last few final touches have really made a huge difference in the truck. I'm not saying that it didn't already look fantastic, but now it's perfect. I kinda wish you weren't done. I'll miss following your projects. They're a great source of motivation and information. Thanks for sharing.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Hey Mark, you should seriously consider coming to Billetproof in Chehalis next year. It is an awesome time and your truck would do very well. Plus I'd like to see it in person:metal:
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Ha !!
You totally beat me to it, awesome!
You will probably recognise the back drops for these photos then as well....
They were just quick captures on a cheap digital camera, sadly all my big photo $$ is into my old 35mm SLR (lenses and filters and such)... :waah:

My 66...
Attachment 1007727

The wife's 72...
Attachment 1007728

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Really nice story and great looking truck to boot!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Looks Great Mark!!!!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Thanks again guys for all the comments, compliments, and suggestions. I’ve finally reached a point where I can start enjoying more of what everyone else is doing. I’m surprised when I find there are some really great build threads that have been progressing for a long time, and I’ve never seen some of them before. There are just too many to keep up with.

The Chehalis Billetproof event sounds like it would be fun and just the kind of stuff I like. Regrettably my back is so deteriorated I haven’t traveled more than an hour from home in over 10 years, but a new medication is really helping. Who knows, maybe next year?

Spent much of today changing over to snow tires on both the daily driver Honda and the truck. I was hoping to leave the mags on a while longer and maybe get some additional photo opportunities, but I’ve got a slow leak in a rear tire that needs attention. We’re also supposed to have subfreezing temperatures and snow by next weekend, so I figured I’d rather change over now when the weather is more agreeable.

I also finally discovered the source of the chirping windshield trim squeak. Previously I mentioned I hadn’t made any other recent changes to the truck, but I forgot about one and that was the culprit. It turned out to be the chromed steel Hurst shifter handle. I’d never had that mounted up against the shifter adapter plate before (shown in post #39, only the aluminum handles had been used. Since there are no serrations in the adapter, even under maximum fastener torque it still managed to wiggle enough to squeak. Rather than cutting serrations in the plate, I just went back to the aluminum handle for now, and thankfully the irritation is completely gone. The windshield trim was a minor contributor, but that noise was eliminated on the first attempt. Amazing how hard some of those things can be to diagnose.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Yes, and it's those same things that can drive a person crazy till you find it.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Today I completed another minor project. I made two gaskets, one to go between the shifter stick and the adapter, and another to go between the adapter and the shifter mechanism. While I was at it I also pulled the aluminum handle back out and reinstalled the Hurst stick.

Years ago I found the polished stainless plate that fits into the top of the Hurst Super Boot cut into the boot, eventually tearing it. So when a new replacement boot was installed, I removed the cosmetic plate. After having had so many variations in boot position and stick selections, I looked it over again tonight and determined the boot is currently in a nearly neutral position. So I also went ahead and reinstalled the top plate to make the boot look more finished, and add a bit more sparkle to the interior. Shifting through all the gears it doesn’t appear the plate is causing any problems this time.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/705/0001yi.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

came across this in a fellow member's picture album, & I thought of you:

https://plus.google.com/photos/10060...554?banner=pwa

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Wow that’s interesting. Thanks for sharing the link. I'll post the photos here for others to see in case the link goes away in the future:

http://imageshack.us/a/img441/117/greaserama0144.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img35/5688/greaserama0145.jpg

I see he mounted his upside down, so the curvature of the “blades” kind of follows the flow of the Chevy grille opening. I never noticed before how much curve there seems to be. It looks like he also may have added 57 Chevy mesh behind the bar.

I had only seen the Buick grille on Leadfoot Lambert’s truck which inspired me to try it on mine. In the last week I’ve now seen two more applications. It appears there are quite a few out there that like to try a less conventional approach.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Well I voted today on the Chevy Talk website 2013 calendar contest. I was delighted to find 3 of our trucks made the final 35 (out of which 12 will make the calendar). If you’re a member on that site as well you might want to check it out, since the calendar/voting isn’t announced in the forums. It’s only found at the following link. If you don’t know to look for it, you won’t know there’s a calendar selection going on.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...91152/#2291152

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

It's neat you and LakeRoadster are both candidates.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I registered and voted Mark, how did they get ahold of your photo ?

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Ditto...

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I submitted it earlier in the month. They post a calendar competition announcement in the sub forums, so you kind of need to check in every day during October. Here’s the solicitation this year:

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/287981/

All you need to do is take a suitable photo per their requirements, and submit it via the email address they provide. It’s open to all registered members.

Looking at the above link further, that may have been a one time courtesy invitation from Hilandr. I’m not sure the main announcement isn’t located only in the forum mentioned next:

Once a photo is submitted, you need to check the “Important Announcements Forum” for when to vote or it will pass you by. The Important Announcements Forum is found at the top of the Forums tab.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/index.php?

Just don’t be unrealistic with expectations. I imagine there are a lot more members in the 55-57 Chevy, Camaro, Corvette, Impala, and Chevelle forums than there are 60-66 trucks.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

OooooooOOOoooo Camaro, man you just dont see many of those any more....

LOL, thanks for the info Mark.
I registered just to vote, I doubt I would ever compete.
As far as checking their forums, it would be hard for me to find the time really.
Since I started this build, my input on the Pontiac sites has totally dropped off.
Too much focus on the task at hand I guess.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

just cast a vote for ya mark... good luck.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

It’s pretty obvious where almost all of my internet time is focused based on my post count. It’s around 5500 on this forum, and in the low hundreds (or less) on all of the others.

Thank you!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

The Stovebolt calendar I ordered arrived today, and I was excited to see what had been done to the photo I submitted. Somebody spent a great deal of time photoshopping the picture to the point it almost looks more like a watercolor than a photograph. In addition to lightening up much of the photo and highlighting the body lines, the sky was also colored blue. Here’s the photo that was submitted:

http://imageshack.us/a/img827/371/2013stovebolt003.jpg

And here’s what was printed in the calendar (July):

http://imageshack.us/a/img854/3443/2013stovebolt002.jpg

I’m going to send them a thank you as soon as I can get my outgoing email working again.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Your truck is gorgeous in itself, but Man! - That picture really makes your truck scream amazing!
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

that looks real cool... congrats mark.
i want a calendar, guess i will check out their site.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Thanks guys. Here’s a direct link if you’re interested in obtaining a calendar. They are not inexpensive, but they are done nicely on very high quality, heavy semi gloss paper.


The individual pages can be viewed just below the cover photo. I really like the November and December trucks as well.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

WOW what a job they did. you better save that pic in your computer

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

We're thinking along the same lines. It got scanned and saved on two drives before it made it to the truck wall!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

A dead battery this morning prompted another small electrical project. I have a Hotronics Battery Disconnect installed and once the switch is thrown everything in the truck is electrically dead except the clock. The clock only draws a few milliamps, but when the truck isn’t driven for a few weeks the draw is enough to significantly drain the battery.

If driven daily the truck will spark to life almost instantly. After several days of inactivity the process becomes challenging since modern gasoline evaporates from the fuel bowl leaving the carb empty. After repeated attempts this morning the battery finally gave up just as the engine wanted to light.

Rather than installing an electric fuel pump (which I don’t want) to help resolve the problem, I decided on an easier approach that was free. I put in a winter/summer switch to select the power source for the clock. I installed a double throw, double pole toggle switch in the location formerly occupied by the fog lamp switch:

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/381/switchy.jpg

One side of the toggle switch routes hot power from the battery disconnect and the other side provides power from the cold side of the ignition switch. On the winter setting the clock will stop when the master power is shut down, and require resetting each time the truck is used (the same as having a wind-up mechanical clock). In the months when the truck is driven regularly, a flip of the switch will restore constant power from the disconnect solenoid and keep the clock running continuously.

In previous years my solution was to disconnect the battery when the truck sat for an extended period. This proved somewhat inconvenient especially when I forgot to disconnect the cable and ended up with a dead battery.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Why are you against an electric fuel pump?
I mount one to the frame right next to the fuel tank and have it switched under the dash.
It is turned on to prime the fuel system and that's it.
After the thing is primed the mechanical pump can handle it from there on and if the mechanical pump fails, I have a backup and it doest need to be expensive.
:5150:
I do this on anything I don't drive often. (with a carb)
:metal:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

So once the engine is up and running, you can turn off the electric fuel pump and the mechanical pump will pull fuel through the electric pump even though it's turned off?
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I don't even run the motor with the electric fuel pump. If my truck sits for many weeks without being started, I turn on the pump until I hear it reach pressure, turn off the pump and the motor pops right off like I shut it off 5 minutes ago.
I use the electric fuel pump to prime the system only. I don't use it in normal operation.
:5150:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Please advise what electric pump you're running (brand, model, or type). I'm ready to start shopping tomorrow! It never occurred to me that a mechanical pump would pull gas through an electric pump that wasn’t running, but if you’re doing it – it obviously works. I just always presumed the impellers or whatever would block the flow of fuel if it wasn’t energized.

My loathing for electric fuel pumps goes back to my first one in the mid 1970’s when I mounted one in my 283 powered 54 Chevy sedan. It lasted a couple of years before it failed and left me stranded. I bought a name brand performance model (twice as expensive) and it also lasted a few years before it also failed, leaving me on foot again. They were always mounted right next to the tank pushing the gas, and the tanks were clean with new fuel lines. The same saga was repeated on a couple of other cars, the last being the 46 Ford that preceded the GMC. I had installed an electric pump because at the time the clearance kit for a mechanical pump had not been developed yet. After about 5 years the first pump failed and was replaced with something that cost a small fortune.

Just a couple of months on the new pump and I got an urgent call from my fiancé – she was stuck in the hubcap lane on the freeway with a dead fuel pump. ARRRGGGHHHH!!!

After about 30 minutes of inspecting and testing, it was obvious there was absolutely nothing wrong except the pump wouldn’t work. So I did what any rational sane person would do. I took out a 10 inch Crescent wrench and beat the snot out of that miserable piece of crap until my arm got tired. Turns out all it needed was an attitude adjustment. It fired right up and was working just fine when the car was sold a short while later.

When my truck is being used daily, it will fire up almost on the first revolution. I’m running a Powermaster gear reduction starter and it really flings the engine over. After 2-3 days of inactivity it takes a few minutes and a lot of fiddling with the electric fast idle, the choke, and how many times to pump the accelerator. After 2-3 weeks of not being used, it’s like trying to start an uncooperative radial aircraft engine. Last time it took so long the battery died before the engine lit.

Thanks for pointing out the solution. I’d love to not have to deal with this issue ever again.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

You know, I am not sure of the make of the pump I have now but I have used several pumps from different companies.
I bought the pump on my 66 at Checker/O'reilly. ( http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap )
I know it was universal and not an expensive race application pump like the one I fuel my prostreet with.
I believe I had $50 or maybe a little more into the little booster pump as I call it.
Oh, and when I was having trouble with vapor lock last summer, it helped with that too.
(the reason for the vapor lock has since been fixed)
I just remembered too that I believe I used a Mr Gasket brand on my 70 lemans.
I would think a way to check if the pump will work is if you can blow through the pump when it is off, fuel will go through it too.
Frankly, It never occurred to me that the pump might not work when it was off. It always has and I have used a bunch of different pumps this way. I guess ignorance is bliss with me. LOL
:5150:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

That is such a cool tip.
My first thought was the fuel wouldn't go through it if it was off. But your suggestion to test it by blowing air through it makes perfect sense.
Again, what a great tip!
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I’ve been reading threads on a variety of forums today and this appears to be a pretty common solution to the problem of vehicles that sit for extended periods. Just charge the system with the electric pump, turn it off, and start the engine. I’m going to go for it too. I’ve been researching fuel pumps all day trying to determine what’s most compatible and reliable.

I’m also realizing some of my history with failed electric pumps may be my own fault. A relay electrical system is required to guarantee a full 12 volts at the pump to keep it from overheating (which I never did previously), and they also need a filter between the tank and the pump (which I only did some of the time). It needs to be 100 microns; nothing finer or the restriction can also cause the pump to overheat. A finer filter (5-10 microns) belongs after the pump and before the carb.

So I’m researching what’s a suitable (and affordable) filter and pump. I already have spare relays, sockets and wiring so there’s no cost involved for that part of it.

I’m thinking it might also be cheap insurance to replace my original fuel pump that’s 20 years old, since nothing lasts forever. The big decision here is whether to go with a replacement 1967-1981 sealed pump which costs less that $20 (which is what I currently have), or go with an earlier 1965 style pump which comes with NPT fittings and can be disassembled and clocked. I could eliminate two rubber lines and 4 hose clamps which would look cleaner, but the pump is over twice as expensive and will also require forming new hard lines coming in and heading out to the carburetor. This option would also require having the fuel lines open for a longer period while everything is fitted, and I absolutely hate working with dripping gasoline.

Haven’t got the answer yet but I’m sure looking forward to having an engine that’s easy to start – all of the time! This is what I love about this forum. Once again another member has shared something I didn't know that helps out with my own build. Thanks again to 66-PMD-GMC and everyone else that contributes here!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Well now that is a gem of info right there too!
I guess my next stop in the parts store I am going to be looking at filter microns !!
Great info on the dual pumps too!
Though our Pontiacs tend to sit for a year or more at a time, I just took the lazy starts in stride.
Of course a little carb cleaner down the throat helps too !! :devil:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

A back up electric fuel pump. I never thought of that either.
The white '67 Camaro in the "I wasn't mad when it got killed" video has that problem. So much so I have to pour a half a Pepsi bottle of gas down the carb before I even try to start it after a long sit.

Parts store here I come!

Thanks for the info and great build!!!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Thanks for the input, that looks like a nice setup. I took a slightly different direction since my truck isn’t so race oriented and too old school for A/N fittings and braided hose.

I started sourcing parts on the 10th and some took longer than others to find. I decided to go with a Carter P4070 electric pump, and selected an Aeromotive 12316 filter as it was the cheapest 100 micron filter I could find. Also on the list was a Carter M3120 mechanical fuel pump to replace the aging original 67-81 sealed style engine driven pump. I figured while I was at it I might as well clean up the connections to the mechanical pump, and form a new hard line to the carburetor with fewer bends.

To achieve that goal, I picked up a 90 degree elbow for the intake manifold heater connection. The new hard line will no longer require the arch over the heater hose:

Here’s how it used to look with a straight hose fitting:

http://imageshack.us/a/img339/7272/010pk.jpg

And here’s a terrible photo of how the hump in the pipe is no longer needed with the hose pointing forward:

http://imageshack.us/a/img51/5541/009qsm.jpg

Much to my disbelief the hardest part to find was a simple momentary toggle switch with a metal handle to match all the others in my truck. The local car parts stores only carry plastic handle versions, and the electronics and hardware stores don’t carry momentary switches at all. I finally discovered the switch I wanted at a local industrial supply house – Grainger. Long ago I bought tons of stuff from them for work, but never realized they also sold retail. It was a nice learning experience and I’ll be using them again.

After a great deal of lying on my back under the truck, I finally figured out where to mount the pump. My first choice was between the tank and where the fuel line enters the frame. In this position I could simply remove the line from the tank to the union, and attach the pump:

http://imageshack.us/a/img833/3839/001oq.jpg

Unfortunately, it turned out the pump would be within collision distance of the panhard rod/axle bracket. So it had to move forward behind the spring, and in front of the axle:

http://imageshack.us/a/img152/5093/002njx.jpg

The bracket required trimming to clear the triangular shaped brackets which attach the muffler crossmember. The upside being the pump is now located mid-depth of the tank, which is the manufacturer’s preferred location. Here’s a shot showing axle clearance from the bottom up:

http://imageshack.us/a/img844/5205/003exf.jpg

The pump is now in front of the hard line connection I wanted to use but fortunately there’s another union about two feet forward of the pump:

http://imageshack.us/a/img191/1568/004dzp.jpg

Since the connections to the pump are required to be done in rubber, it allowed me to complete the hard lines without hooking anything up, since slight variations can be corrected by the flexible hoses. This will connect the pump outlet to the forward union:

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3350/005vk.jpg

The hard line shown in this photo from the forward union to the front of the tank will be removed:

http://imageshack.us/a/img407/3058/007cxr.jpg

And this line and filter will connect the tank to the pump inlet:

http://imageshack.us/a/img593/5197/008bxq.jpg

On straight tubing which will terminate with a rubber hose, I create a simple hose barb by only performing ¼ of the normal process. Rather than fully crimping the first step of an inverted flare, I only squish the tube one half of what is required. Rather than removing the forming die and finishing the piece, I just leave it as is. It’s easy to slide a hose over and gives the hose/clamp something to resist slippage.

http://imageshack.us/a/img515/4729/006jlb.jpg

For electrical power I repurposed the fog light relay circuit. I had not removed anything from the truck when the lights were deleted, except for the power wire from the relay. So I ran a new one piece 10 gauge wire down through the forward portion of the frame all the way to the pump. The only electrical item left to install is the momentary switch which needs to be relocated under the middle safety cover on the dash.

Tomorrow I’m going to attempt pulling the hard line from the tank and adding a piece of plugged tubing to the inverted flare fitting. This will allow me to work on all the rest of the lines and only have to deal with the residual gasoline in the lines. I won’t open the lines without my squeeze standing by on the fire extinguisher, since there could be as much as 25-30 gallons of gas in the tank and I’m not sure how much might spill out before I can get it capped. The bummer is that the garage is about 45 degrees without the propane space heater (which brings the temp up to about 58 degrees. Once the lines are open, everything else has to be completed in the cold since I will no longer run the heater.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Very nice explination Mark... :)
Love the pictorial...
:c2:
:5150:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Thanks Chris. It's your fault I'm even doing this project! :lol:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

That is the pump I have.. at least it looks exactly like the one I have.
I mounted mine the other way around with the motor for the pump above the fuel lines but otherwise it is pretty muck how I mounted mine.
I thought your truck was a 63 for some reason Mark, but I see by the frame it is a 62 or older... :)
:cool:
:5150: