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which one would work better do you think? spray or roll? |
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Here is a light faux-tina job on a 63 Jimmy. A lot of rust repairs were done and one door and both wheel tubs were replaced. What we think turned out pretty good is the detail stuff like mirrors, rear bumper and grill surround.
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But play around and see what works for you. Here is where I started getting a look I really liked: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...89#post7274689 |
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clemdaddy, that's a beauty.
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Here is a Faux-tina job we did on my 65. Now the 56 next too it is 100% original patina (haha)
Cab is original other then rockers, New fenders, all new bed, and original hood. |
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I asked this question in the paint section and am not getting too much help…..so id think id reach out to a bigger audience…..
What type of paint are you using and what kind of finish? I dont want shiney but im only finding a gray rust oleum in a gloss. Im looking for a light gray but still not sure on the finish. What will help the already Pantina to rear its beauty through the new top coat better. I know i am going to be rolling and using a spray gun…… what’s everyone’s thoughts. Heres the truck That i want to top coat over …. By the way… i do not want to rattle can it! Thank you! |
Re: faux-tina paint jobs
I used Sherwin Williams oil base enamel. It's like Rust-Oleum, but it is just the base color, and you can get it mixed to match their sample paint chips. I think the had gloss and semi -gloss. But I hit mine with a fine Scotch Brite pad, and it knocked the gloss right down. I figured using enamel is would weather quicker and give a more realistic look.
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Just be careful not to make it look like forced wear where there are patches of areas sanded through.
The wear should be the typical places where people's hands and body would have rubbed up against the truck. Or, where weather took it's toll on it - like the top of the hood, roof, and bedsides. |
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Others may have a different taste, but these areas I hit the look I was looking for nail on.
The last pic is where others told me to stop and that it looks great. I get lots of compliments on it. |
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Here's what mine looks like 7 years later. A trick is to never wash it. :D
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My 1965 original 57 years in the making patina.
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Here's my '66 Short-Fleet. Original paint Texas truck. Not faux-patina, but a representation of what a faux patina truck should be shooting for with the correct primer bases. (Black oxide for front clip and box, and red oxide for cab/doors)
We believe the truck was stored in a lean-to with the drivers' side facing south...so that side of the truck is WAAAAY more sun-faded. Photo of drivers' side before trying to shine it up (going to take some work!) photo of passengers' side showing that there is still life left in old paint. Toughest part is the hood as it has "textured" rust. CLR and a 3M red-scuffy pad, followed by 2000 grit on a oscillating sander prior to buffing, and it puts a bit of shine back in it. Truck will get ceramic coated once finished. Does a good job of keeping the flash rust at bay, especially on bare/smooth steel. I don't know what my problem is, but I'll take a truck that looks like this, over one that is "show floor"..... |
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about 12 years ago, I bought this '65 C10 out of Kentucky. It had 3 coats of paint on it with the last coat being a Rattle-can (Rustoleum?, Krylon?) job... It too was flaking off, and made the truck look like crap..... The rattle can coat was about 3 shades darker than the original light blue, so it REALLY stood out! I started messing around with it, and realized that if I took a razor blade and held it at a 90 degree angle to the body, I could SCRAPE that top layer off!!!! The coat underneath was thick enough that it allowed me to wetsand and buff it out to look like this.... (only pic I have handy right now) I had about 40 hours in scraping, wetsanding, buffing, detailing to make it look presentable, but it was worth it. The worst part, was that my asphalt driveway was stained blue, and required a re-seal....lol |
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Well it sure looked good when you were done. :)
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Trucks all look good, scraping off 40 hours is very therapeutic, you can think about everything :D, it looks great.
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As with most things, photos usually make things better than "real life", but it was WAAAAY better than when it first showed up on my doorstep. I just noticed if you look in the photo, you can see beneath the back window, that I wasn't quite done removing some of the "darker" blue paint.. There was overspray onto the white cab top, that I must have taken care of after this pic was taken. |
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I personally think every best attempt, even those professionally done, still don't look right. I don't knock someone for trying, it's their truck, do it the way they want. My goal was more of a truck that had been painted several times over the generations and the old paint is wearing through. I may haven't hit it as well as my vision, but my fauxtina is more because I don't want to have to worry about scratches and dings. A guy saw me at a gas station and said my truck would be nice if I gave it a paint job. I said, but then I'd have to worry about it. |
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Real patina is vary random. Random is hard to do. I was thinking that a way that might create a random patina would be to drag the painted sheet mettle across the sand. The hard part would be doing the cab.
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Here is my ‘65 with a mild fauxtina paint job.
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Hey, is that your grandparents old truck? |
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Looks good.
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Yes - this the same truck. I have gotten it to this point over the last couple of years but haven’t been good about updating the build thread. It now sports a complete tubular suspension, TBI 350 with 700R4, power brakes and steering, rear tank, etc. Just installed a Craftec cover and finished the AC in the last couple of weeks. If all goes well, I am hoping to Long Haul the Hot Rod Power Tour this summer. |
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Not mine
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