Re: S10 Swap how to
 

[QUOTE=mxer666;7785317]Thank you both. I've learned a lot about driveline angles in the last couple days. I have it pretty much corrected. Because of the drop, the rear end pinion was above the trans tailshaft. Raised the trans 1", shimmed the pinion down[/QUOTE
glad that you figured it out. I always just put the rear end back on the springs, guess I just have a knack for setting up the driveline. LOL
up

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here is some pics of my engine pedistals.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

The Sorry, this is the pic I meant to post.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Glad to see you back skymangs!!! I have a question. I'm working on a 51 Chevy 3100. I've read through this thread multiple times. Can you cover more of what radiator you use, maybe post a link for to speedway motor's site? I'm running a 5.3L LM7 on a 92 S10 frame. Thanks in advance!!!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

sort of off topic to the current conversation in this thread, but google search and the search button here has been insufficient for what I need. I'm using a stock 95 s10 brack booster/pedal setup on my 49 gmc. a 6.0lqr with 4l80e and need to wire up the pressure switch or tcc correctly. the brake booster has 4 or 5 wires going into a plug.. does anyone know what each of these wires go to?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

A wiring diagram can be your friend. You could grab an ohm meter and start checking to see what the terminals do when you press the plunger in and out

This is how I went about mine and how my switch hooked up.

The front pair is for the brake light switch. When the plunger is opened (pedal depressed) the switch is closed and brake lights light up.

The rear pair terminals are for the TCC and Cruise Control. They are normally closed. When the pedal is depressed these circuits open cutting the power to the TCC and Cruise control.

I relocated my switch so it couldn't be seen below the dash. See Post 177 here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=664837&page=8

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PB...A=w640-h480-no
Referenced from: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/vi...p?f=34&t=72495

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hussy's right, on the 4 pin brake switch 1 pair is normally open(cold, the brake light switch) and the other pair is closed(hot, runs the cruise control or the TCC switch.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This is great information. I am searching for an S10 donor. I do have the rear end off of a 4x4 blazer to get the 4" width. My question is the engine location. i read, but could not find it again, if I use the 4.3 V6 Vortec engine, it would have to move back 7" to accommodate the radiator?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Yes, the general figure is at least 6 inches to accommodate the E fan. I generally put the cab on and then place the driveline so that the distributor is about 1 inch or so in front of the firewall. If you are using an LS motor make sure there is an inch or so there is behind the passenger head.
On the radiator question; just go to Speedway. And search for a universal 19 x 22 radiator. If you're using the 4.3 or the 5.7 is one with a driver's side upper hose. If your gonna have an LS motor you need the passenger side upper hose.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I just did a 4.3 s10 truck and moved the engine back 7", I ran the stock s10 radiator and clutch fan. in retrospect I would probably move it back 9-10" next time. the best thing is I think if I move it back 10 I can use a standard cab one piece driveshaft unmodified.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Seems almost easy. Great info guys!!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Joedoh, are you sure you would be inside the firewall at 10 inches.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here is a bit on installing an LS. I use LT1swaps.com for the wiring. Then I make my own motor mount adapters on the engine side. I use Speedway 19 x 22 universal radiator with the passenger side upper hose. Then I go on eBay and buy a straight billet thermostat housing. I use Hooker cast headers(also on eBay) then I place the motor with the passenger side head about one inch in front of the firewall. You'll want to run a maf or it may not idle right. Send your PCM to Brennen at LT1swaps.com to have it reprogrammed to run in standalone mode and have a basic performance tune put on it. That's about all there is to it. The rest is basic mechanics. Oh yeah, if you choose to run an LS you'll need to separate harnesses. The engine and the body. I use easy wirings 12 or 21 circuit harness, depending on how many accessories I am going to run.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks everyone. This is my first build, waiting on my sons, to make it a family project.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I dont think so, I did 5.5 inches on the last one and the clutch fan didnt fit, so I did 7" on this one and the clutch fan fit but there was still a good couple inches left at the back of the engine to the firewall.

This is for a 4.3, not a v8, but I guess maybe I should go outside and measure instead of just spouting :lol:

the thing is, when people use s10 V8 swap mounts flipped over to move a V8 engine back 5", it actually could go more than 5" with a 4.3, because of where the extra cylinder bank on a V8 is. on an s10 V8 swap you need to move the V8 forward 5" to clear the S10 firewall, so installing a V8 to stock unaltered 4.3 mounts on can be considered moving the V8 back 5" on the s10 frame, then another 3-5" with flipped swap mounts.

I will go measure, maybe something like the head will hit the flat part of the firewall before the distributor hits the bell part. its coooold outside though, like 16 degrees today!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here is the motor mount plates I was referring to.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This is the radiator I use. Both passenger upper and lower hoses. The last 3 are my PCM holder. I usually tack weld and to the backside of the firewall above the steering column. Pretty slick huh?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Next, is some photos showing that straight thermostat housing I mentioned before.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I know moving the motor back is better for handling, etc. I used EZ swaps plates to move a 350 back around 4", but mounted the fan in front of the rad, wired in reverse. Works great

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

See how the lower hose lines up, it's almost straight shot. Now I'll show you a pic of the headers I use. Lastly I almost forgot, I tap the back with of the water pump with an 1/8 inch NPT tap. And I put a 1/4 inch brass elbow with an 1/8 inch NPT end. I put the steam tube there.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Sorry, here are the pics.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I looked today and with a 7" rearward move there is a comfortable 2" more, and 3 inches if you clearance slightly for the passenger side head.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...psi0tc0bak.jpg

I am doing a 41 on S10 right now and I am going to try 9.5" and a std cab driveshaft.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Okay, sounds good. Let us know how that works out for you.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Does anyone know if there is a thread/information on gauge options that work with LS conversions? I'd like to know what manufacturers make gauges that have an old school look but work with GM+LS setups. I know my options are more limited (with a one year GMC) than I would be with a Chevy, but I'm at the point where I need to make a decision.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Pretty much any electronic gauge will work. I've started making my own. I start with Speedhut most basic 80 mph Speedo. And I cut out the backing of they gauge. Then they have a custom faceplate made at my graphics shop. Then I simply put the Speedhut gauge in the hole looks just like factory. You could also send your gauge to Redline and they will convert your stock gauge into a new electronic one. But it'll cost you like $500. That's what I had done on Rico's 54 build.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Never heard of Speedhut gauges, took a peek at their website and wow...cool outfit. Lots of selections and dropdown to custom design your own gauges.

The OBD2 Can Bus gauges are really cool. Not sure if the GM protocol is compatible but simply plugging into your OBD2 plug couldn't get any easier for gauge hook-up.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks for the input, guys. I have opted to go with VDO gauges. They have a series called Heritage Chrome, which looks pretty old school and similar to the stock gauges that I have. Speedo is compatible with the 4L60E transmission. They come with the required sensors and the place I am buying them from will provide the adapter bushing for the oil pressure sensor to fit into the LS block. Their fuel gauge requires a sender that operates from 10-180 ohms, and they provide that with the kit. However, rather than opening the tank back up, I read that there is an adapter that converts the post '67 GM sender's signal (which goes from 0-90 ohms) to one that he VDO and others can understand. I'll report back when they arrive and I've had a chance to mess around with them.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Sorry, this took so long. I am in the middle of moving from Missouri to Iowa. I have never seen an adapter that converts the ohms from 0–30 to 10–180 ohms. I thought convertors were a thing of myth. And I hate to tell you by the year break is 64. 64 and older is 0–30 ohms. While 65 and newer were 0–90 ohms. You'll have to open that tank.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

If you search online for "Fuel Gauge Interface Module" you will see what I am talking about. Speedway motors makes one that is supposedly infinitely adjustable but it is $126.00. I'm hoping to just find a preset one for cheaper that will convert the S10 signal to the VDO gauge.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Reaper, I was going to ask you what size of those speedhut gauges you used on your AD build, but then I checked out the build page. Wow...Amazing work!

Question remains...would the 4.5" gauges work, and look ok in a stock dash. I don't like it when it looks like there is too much bezel. Like you scabbed something in.
Anyone else used them in a stock dash?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Post #174 what size wheel and tires front and rear? Offset front and rear? Spacers front and rear and rear end? 2wd or 4x4? Thanks

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the wheels on the front are 15 X7 on a 4 inch B.S. and the ones on the rear are 15 X8 on a 4.5 inch B.S. the tires on the front are 22560R15 and rears are 25560R15. There are 2 inch spacers in the front, and only a 4 x 4 reread in the back.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

As far as exhaust and headers go, has anyone been able to use long tubes? I'd really like to use them. I've used the trans dapt motor mounts, and I'm using a 5.3L. I'm also looking at the block hugger Hooker headers as well. Any input here would be greatly appreciated.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I used a set from Classic Performance Products that fit pretty well. You can see them on my thread. They did require me to re route the steering shaft around them slightly.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Don't know if you want to run headers. My stock SUV manifolds from my 5.3 are going to fit perfectly.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Do any of you guys have pictures on where your wiring exits the cab to feed the back of the truck (lights, fuel pump etc.)? I'm looking for ideas.

Thanks.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here's mine.

I used gromments I picked up at McMaster Carr by Kennard Industries. They're really pipe grommets but they the perfect amount of stretch to them. Being they were so cheap and not knowing exactly what I would need I order an assortment of them.

Pick them out based on the tube size. I then used a step drill bit to drill the holes for them.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-seali...mmets/=15rtocw

Half of these wires went to the front and half to the back. There's a few more photos in my build thread.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hh...=w1200-h675-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pn...=w1200-h675-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vz...=w1200-h675-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3g...=w1200-h675-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vp...=w1200-h675-no