Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Does anyone have the measurement from the s10 front bed mount to axle center I'm about to draw up a custom back half for my air ride in the rear just wondering if anyone has the measurement. Thanks for any input

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I like a search challenge.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jd...w1542-h1156-no

Found here:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/a...g-jpg.1396476/

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

hahah I was going to post the same photo. I have the frame all vectorized and also an AD body vectorized, all to scale. So I can test fit things on the computer if need be. Was going to make a bunch of blue prints, but I like to keep that stuff off then net. The info on here is great, but too much play by play makes alot of people lazy. I get alot of people asking for info and aren't too appreciative or... are to expecting of the info. The swap craze and the bolt on stuff is putting alot of trucks back on the road, but also making alot of guys not learn the many aspects of building, not to mention safety.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Quick question -
I have a 49 gmc long bed, but after searching, Im afraid I have a later (year) cab due to having shackles holding the cab in the rears.

By having the shackles I opted not to use the bushing to fit in between the c brace which runs underneath the cab, but instead welding a 4x4 1/4 plate on the c brace. Ive got the cab on the frame and it looks great, but am wondering if the bottom line of the cab should run parallel with the frame?

It looks raked to me by about 2 inches too tall on the rear. Ive used version one cab mount designs, and am utilizing stock s10 body mounts.

If anyone has a picture of their cab on frame it would be very appreciative. Or if someone can check on their finished build whether or not the cab rest on a parallel line with respect to the frame. Thanks guys.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I had a similar problem since my floor was completely gone, and I made my own floor, bracing, and mounts. I made the bottom of the cab parallel to the bottom of the frame, which should also make your running boards level with the frame.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

put a level on your rocker and see where you are at. the front of the s10 frame drops a little so leveling your mounts won't level your cab. I make my mounts out of 4x4 tubing once I get the height I'm after I then weld the extra supports on the mounts that sit on top of frame. Most the cab mount designs on here incorporate the extra support that sits on top of frame. Problem with that is, you have no adjustability up or down.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hope this doesn't come out sounding condescending, just trying to give some constructive advice, but I think 99_to_Lifes post in 525 kind of eludes to the perils of blindly following what others have done and not planning out how it's going to work for you.

I don't think you're going to want your cab raked on your frame. That two inches to tall and the back of the cab will end up being 6 inches to tall at the back of the bed. Personally, I think the floor of the cab should sit level with the frame. Hopefully you just have the mounts tacked on. I'd cut them and and adjust.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'd like to share the mount design and dimensions I came up with. I put these together with advice I got from other builders on this forum (jeffs51chevy, av8tr33337 aka Bartman, 99toLife, and Skymangs) They're made primarily from 4x4 in. 11 GA tubing.

The front mount is placed 2 in. behind the oval hole on the frame, I can thank Bartman for that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdgYy5YtW8k.

The center to center distance between the front and rear mounts on mine is 36-1/4 in.

I'm running 2 in. drop spindles on the front and 2 in. drop blocks in the back (started with 3 in. blocks but ended up with 2 in. blocks). That puts my running boards nearly level with a slight rake, about 1/2 in. to the rear. The front bumper sits 5-1/2 in. from the ground. Having driven it around I think that it is as low as I would want to go with a static drop.

With these swaps, getting the cab placed properly is critical. Once you know you've got the cab where you want it, getting the front clip, bed, and running boards in place is easy since they are placed off the cab.

There is no need to shell out $1,000+ for a conversion kit that really doesn't get you that far when this will get you the same distance for $100 or so in materials.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...160%252529.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s...161%252529.jpg

Downloadable PDFs which are a bit clearer are available at the following links:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...132%252529.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...130%252529.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z...145%252529.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...146%252529.jpg

From the top of the frame to the bottom of the cab floor support measures 4 in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...147%252529.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...149%252529.jpg

I ran an 11 GA 2x1 rectangular tubing between the two rear cab mounts and bolted to the bottom of the floor.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s...150%252529.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u...151%252529.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...154%252529.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P...155%252529.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...157%252529.jpg

Of course more pics are in my build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=664837

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks for the replies guys. Will have my cab leveled on the rocker and make the final judgement.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

hussey, great blueprints and pics. you make it too easy for some guys! I 100% agree with taking a little bit of time and material and making your mounts. No need to shell out money for a kit. Unless it is completely adjustable and well under 1k I think its a waste.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

mounting the body is only about 15% of the work. the 85% left takes determination and critical thinking. these are very easy to start and very hard to finish!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Question...I've got a 48 I'm building. When I bought the cab the previous owner cut the whole floor out. I just got the cab sandblasted and about ready to start putting new cab corners and rockers on it. Toeboard is shot, so I'll replace that with 18 gauge sheetmetal. Still looking for an S-10 for my project, but I've got a 5.3 ls that I built for one of my other vehicles but decided I'm going to put it in this truck instead. Hoping to find a late 80s model S-10 so I can use the 700r4 transmission. I want to build my own floor, but does anyone know with this setup if I need a transmission hump in the floor? I'd like to keep it as flat as possible. Just want to know if I should wait to do the floor until I've got my frame and motor/transmission in place or if I can go ahead and build the cab so it's done.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

there are so many different ways to set up the engine/trans mounts and body mounts that I would at least wait to build the tunnel. a good example is husseys truck, the mounts on his truck and mine were roughly the same height but he needed a much larger trans tunnel than I did.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I was thinking I would just wait. I plan on getting the engine mount bracket from code504.com, supposed to move the engine back 5" I believe. Just wanted to have the cab done before I set it on the frame, but then I want it to line up and fit good too. I'll just wait, now that I think about it, don't want to keep moving the cab off and on the frame! Thanks

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

IMPO skymangs (Chris) never had any intent of this thread being considered a"kit". He is sharing his love of what he does with anyone who has access to this forum. This is a thread with info for guys like me to build a truck without buying a mega bucks kit. I like to think of this as making a pan of cornbread. You can use your grandmothers recipe that was handed down generations or you can buy a box of mix at the local grocery store. Following the information provided by either, you get a delicious pan of cornbread that you can be proud of.

My point, if you want to buy a kit, go buy it and build your truck with pride. Just don't confuse this thread in anyway of being a kit. Clay

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hello;

Thanks Clay 54;

If you need information to build a truch then use that information.
If you just want a kit truck then just have someone build you one out of kit on line.
Most or us on this blog enjoy working with our hand to build something we can call our own.

T-P Auto :chevy:

Tim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Please, let's don't ruin this excellent thread with bickering.
Now, back to the builds, okay?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Got my cab situated, level rockers/cab floor seems perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

For those using a 5.3 vortec in your build, any suggestions for headers? I'm currently leaning towards stock f body headers that don't have either egr or air injection ports. Motor sits perfectly in this chassis without much modification to the floor of the cab. Would like to know before I start buying multiple headers. ��thanks guys

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

They make a s-10 v8 conversion header. They sell them on ebay, believe that's even what they're called.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm so glad I found this thread and you've done such a kick ass job posting everything. I just picked up a 98 2wd s-10 for my 55'. I wanna go the route of a 350 with a 700r4. Is this a possible configuration? I'm definitely green behind the ears when it comes to this. So any constructive criticism is encouraged. Thanks again for your hard work!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

a stock f body manifold will clear, if you want to go the header route, I use Hooker cast. They really hug the block. And they only cost about $300

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

CoreyH; I would think twice about using that 700R4, in order to realize the benefits of that 5.3, you will need a 4L60E trans.

Thank you Clay, that is why I made this thread. For the DIY guys. If you want to buy a kit, then by all means by a kit. But, don't come to me when it looks like crap. Wanting me to tell you how to fix it.

This thread is for serious builders, who want to build their trucks the right way the 1st time.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Personally, I don't think either transmission provides a benefit for the 5.3 unless you consider the ECM and it's ability to control the transmission.

If you're using the ECM from the 5.3 then yes I would agree that a 4L60E would be easier to get up and running, no need to hook up a T-V cable.

But, if you're going to a throttle body injection like the Holley Sniper or FI -Tech or with a carburetor then you could go with a 700R4, otherwise you will need a standalone transmission controller which run + $500. But, if you like the idea of being able to change shift points via your laptop then a 4L60E would be the way to go.

With the 700R4 you will need to hook up the T-V cable to the throttle body correctly and adjust it correctly, failing to do so will burn up your transmission.

So, in the end, I think it's really the builder that needs to weigh thier options to determine what best fits their needs, wants, and application.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I like the 4l60e transmissions, have one in my TB, but I didn't want to mess with all the wiring for that on a truck like this. Never used a 700r4 before but heard they were good transmissions for these builds with an LS motor. Running LS1 102mm intake manifold and fuel injection. I've already got a PCM and can get the TCM for it, just didn't want to mess with all the wiring. If that's the better transmission over the 700r4, then I'd rather have the 4l60e

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I don't plan on rodding it out, but if I want to get up and go I want the power to be there. Wiring don't scare me, I was just under the impression the 700 was the better choice. I can rebuild either one but since I'm going EFI, the 4l60e seems like a better choice.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

are you guys maybe referrring to a 4l80e when you are talking the difference between a 700r4? because in my admittedly limited understanding, the 4l60e is an electronic 700r4, the 700 has a governor and a TV cable like Hussey is saying, but the internals are interchangable with the 4l60e which has an electronically controlled shift and kickdown

a 4l80e is a very stout trans that can come behind ls/lm/lq variants and doesnt share design with the 700/4l60

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Got this info off of google, and I already knew part of this.

700R4 from 1982 till 1990, then 700R4 was renamed by GM in 1991 as the 4L60 (non elec) numbers and letters stood from 4 speed, L longitudinally and 60 as 6000 GVW. In 1994 the 4L60E was introduced. Depending on brand etc, these dates will very on when they were installed in vehicle. We now have 4L80E, 4L85E, and so forth. Hope this helps...Jim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

keep in mind not all 4l60e will mate flawlessly to the gen3 block. Three modifications are needed if the trans didn't originate on the gen3 block. 1. Flywheel holes need elongated or get a new flywheel, 2. an adapter plate is needed since the cranks are different 3. which is least of any ones worry, one bolt hole won't be used on the trans to engine block. I'd ruffly say most trans that came from 98/99ish and older are more likely to be a gen2 trans. So just something to keep in mind if someone is searching for a 4l60e and isn't aware that not all of them are the same.

If using stock efi, I'd go with 4l60e, 65e or 80e. The 80e is a bigger and heavier trans, overkill for most mild LS stuff.

If going carb over efi on LS engine, (what I'm going through right now) it does get pricey with not only the stand alone controller, but you need a throttle position sensor which is about 130$. The TCI brand controller is nice bc it comes with a handheld cpu. Can't give much more on it as I don't have it yet.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I did a little more research on it. My motor is a 2001 and I can get an 04 4l60e so I'll go that route. EFI cable throttlebody is how I'm going to go. I can use my PCM and just have it flashed with a 2001 silverado OS and I believe it controls transmission as well. Those trucks had the 4l60e in them already so should be just fine

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Dear Sorry Hussey, I just assumed he would use EFI. What dummy would you use a 5.3 without going EFI? I woul them d use the 4L60E and the PCM (flashed as a stand alone PCM) to make that puppy go!
But if you do have the PCM flashed, use Brennen at lt1swap.com, he is the best in the business.

Re: S10 Swap how to