Originally Posted by amueller454 (Post 6460679)

man this is such a cool build!

Originally Posted by MalibuKasey (Post 6474527)

So where are we at with this story? Ill got get some popcorn.... ready for an update.

Originally Posted by jhrusk (Post 6474816)

have you called porterbuilt? They seem to be willing to buils specific items. Might be worth a call.

Originally Posted by theastronaut (Post 6474748)

Email from Hotchkis... no luck on the shafts. Looks like I'll be making my own.

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 6474968)

I thought Moog offered 'offset' shafts in their 'Problem Solver' line of parts?

Originally Posted by theastronaut (Post 6474991)

Yes, but offset inward/outward depending on how you install them. I'm looking for .5" dropped pivot points.

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 6475131)

Ahh.... Gulstand mod vs for camber adjustment.

Originally Posted by pdxhall (Post 6506853)

You'd better hope the floor doesn't move.:lol::lol::lol::metal:

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy (Post 6508868)

Very cool!
With all of the improvements and the dimensional changes you have in mind, those are going to be a trick set of control arms. Do you plan to modify an existing lower control arm, or do you plan to build a custom one? I'm thinking that you'll build a new design, probably out of steel plate. That's what I would do.

I have a buddy who builds ultra trick ($$) high end off road race vehicles, and he builds all of his own control arms and beams. Absolute works of art. I was over at his shop a while back and snapped a picture of some stuff he had just finished welding. "Just a couple of simple brackets and and some limiter strap tabs", he said.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps2ea13868.jpg

I love fab work, and I'm really excited to see what you're going to come up with.

Originally Posted by Bomp (Post 6526482)

Feel some excellent fabrication in the making.

Originally Posted by Bomp (Post 6533239)

Might fit better with a bell crank set up. Are you planning on running stock gauges?

Originally Posted by theastronaut (Post 6526116)

CPP hubs came in today. Just need rotors so I can make caliper brackets.

Originally Posted by theastronaut (Post 6701983)

Mocked up the lower bag mount height with another 4x4" block, which leave the bag at 4.75". Is that compressed too much? The max compressed height is 2.8" aired out, but I can't find info on the minimum bag height at ride height

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket (Post 4613044)

generally everyone uses a (firestone) 2600# bags front and rear on a full size chevy, and firestone 2500# on front of an s10 or other mini w/ 2600# on the rear . some use 2500# all the way around on a mini so they can carry 1 extra bag instead of 2 different ones.
as for your truck i would use a 2600# firestone (re7 equivalent i think) for front and rear. on the front you want a bag that will put the suspension at full lift without stretching the bag. if you use a bag that only gives you 6" of lift without locking the front suspension up you will stretch the outboard side of the bag. example if you use a 2500# bag on the front of a full size truck you will get less lift but it will require higher pressure and the outboard side of the bag will be stretched and eventually rip or blow. if you think about it the inner side of the bag does not lift as far as the outer because its closer to the pivot point. and if you get a smaller bag that only lifts the front to 6" it will ride like your sitting on a brick at 6". you have to have a little extra up/down travel from your desired height to make a comfortable ride.
a smaller bag requires more pressure to lift than a larger bag. more volume uses less pressure, . in a full size truck your pressure to achieve desired ride height should be around 90-100 psi front and 40-50 psi rear depending on weight . assuming thats a small block, a big block would require more like 120+ psi to lift the front. also at full drop the bags should be fully compressed (3" i think between mounts cups whatever) if the bags are not fully compressed this will cause you to use excess pressure to lift the truck.
weight , bag volume, lift angle/position, all change the general psi of lift.
if you only want 6ish" in the rear it would be best to use over the axle mounts rather than in the stock spring location and the bags will last longer due to them being worked in a more direct up/down motion. in the stock spring location the will be inflated on an arch where the rear side of the bag will be lifting higher than the front.
I have used upper and lower "cups" but i prefer plates on the bottom that bolt to the control arm because the recess in the control arm does not have a consistent depth due to the shape of the coil spring. there will be a lower spot where the end of the coil must be clocked into so the recess is not flat in the bottom so the cups can wabble around. not to mention that when deflated the bag will squish out the sides (like a flat tire) so its nice to have a flat surface for it to squish on instead of a sharp edge of a cup (depending on the diameter of the cup).
another thing to think about most first timers mess up is the air bag may fit into the spring pocket just fine when its new and un-inflated but when you inflate it it will not only inflate up it will stretch outward so make sure you have close to 1/2 inch clearance around the bag to spring pocket. this is a huge problem on s10s.
I think most retailers websites list the specs of the bags they are selling i know i used to check them out as far as compressed height, full lift height, suggested ride height, bag material ply, weight lifting capacity, max psi, etc..
the truck looks awesome and theres nothing wrong with a big fat Z as long as its all aligned and welded properly. nice project !

Originally Posted by Bomp (Post 6702166)

Not to question your calculations on your build cause you got it going on Serious.
How much air pressure will you be needing to maintain the 4.75" height? Will it be too soft, too hard? If you take a corner aggressively will you suffer from body roll?
Depending on the driving situation, weight in the truck, freeway, in town, track, winding scenic road out in the country, that usually plays a big part in desired bag pressure. May have to adjust bag height to accomplish desired comfort in ride quality.


I have this info bookmarked from 67c10rustbucket: Info I refer back to now and again.



I've read a few articles. Info you probably already know.
http://www.ridetech.com/info/pressur...eight-control/
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd131.htm
http://toplinehb.com/auto-repair/hig...ension-setups/

Not sure if any of this will help.
Sure do have a truck load of cool stuff going on.
Keep it up cause your build info is really helpful on my build.

Originally Posted by likaroc13 (Post 6702423)

I'm no good for helping with the technical info, but I just wanted to say it's good to see you getting back on it. :)

Originally Posted by aggie91 (Post 6702921)

Everything I have read about ride height and air bags, is the bag should be set at a height that is in the middle of the stoke fo the bag.

If the bag has a 2.5" compressed height and the max extended height is 12", then the bag at ride height should be close to 8.375".

For a lot of the 2600# bags on the market that I have looked at, the ride height is between 6.5"-7.5".

Originally Posted by mcbassin (Post 6710044)

Very nice work as always.