Originally Posted by T.J. MCCAULEY (Post 6186474)

The one they sell is probably the offenhouser.

Originally Posted by Vernski (Post 6185823)

But that's why they make re-jet kits so you can lean em' out to the sweet spot
for air & fuel not just slap em' on there and sink & swim that is if you think outside the box. You just want to start a pissing match, just try to be happy with yourself now..Vernski:dohh:

Originally Posted by Twisted6 (Post 6186744)

I used to run a 600 holley stock out of the box and a BONE stock 250 with a offey intake. Another thing to think about. If you unhook the secondarys on any 4b carb You'll only use half of what it is. 600 cfm / 300cfm, 450 /225cfm.

Originally Posted by Vernski (Post 6186895)

I don't really see why you can't use the smaller weber 32-36 DGEV in a multi carb application just one of them is designed for 1.9-2.0 liter motor and they are in use on motorcycles also re-jeted down or up depending what size Hog it is. All I said in my earlier post was I liked the looks of multi carbs, but it morphed into hear-say info after that cause someone had there own agenda.,Vernski:smoke:
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/category_s/690.htm

Originally Posted by JR25 (Post 6188072)

Any of y'all ever built one of these stove bolt 6s? Turns out there is a collar that holds the oil pump in the bottom of the block. This collar is attached by two bolts from the outside of the block, which I now know was not supposed to be removed...... Yep, got mine out! The block was casted so that after what must have been a double shoulder bolt was installed, they were cut off flush, which makes them appear to be round head bolts! It looked to me like a rounded off standard bolt with all the years of grime in the hole, so I drilled into the heads and used an easy out! Now I have been told that the block is a paper weight! I think that is the "answer" that everyone will give you, along with several opinions why, but I don't give up that easy! I have had EVERYTHING machined for this block and crank, and would just have a box of parts if I abandoned it now, unless I wanted to buy another block of the same year (or as much as a couple of years newer) and have it ored 80 over.
It seems that the biggest problem with removing the bolts is that there is now way to get them back in, at least not to someone less determined and less creative than me! I plan to clean up the holes that I drilled in the bolts for the easy out, tap those holes, and use a bolt to turn the original bolts back into their old holes. Then I could either cut of the slave bolts, or just remove them! The holes don't even go in as deep as the original threads, so I really don't think strength would be an issue.

ANYONE have any input on this? Am I really screwed?

Inline 6s aren't too popular on here it seems, and yes I know about all the forums dedicated to them......but quite frankly, no one on the other sites are nearly as helpful as you guys! The first reply would most likely be "use the search function!" really? Don't you think that a guy who might have just made a thousand dollar rookie mistake hasn't panicked and searched EVERY thread on the net that he can find?

Anyway, if it don't work, I guess I ruin my cam and dizzy gear, and have to back up and punt, but for now it's "third down and long!"
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Originally Posted by JR25 (Post 6189376)

I posted this on my build thread, instead of rehashing it out, I will just copy paste! Anyway, i have been watching this thread for a long time now since my first build will be powered by an inline 6!



Anyway, I have reinstalled it like planned, and will post pics when I get them uploaded. Just curious if anyone else has "ruined" then saved a block by removing those stupid bolts that shoild have been WELDED in place if they are that sacred...... I know I know......if I would have read all the books that I spent good money on, it wouldn't have happened!

John
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Originally Posted by chevy_mike (Post 6189432)

Actually, that quoted text is referring to the Stovebolt Inline 6 engine series which is not the same series that was introduced in '62 and ran into the late 80's. The 194/230/250/292 series engines share nothing in common outside of having 6 pistons inline, with the older series. Based on what I had read, I don't even think I want to mess with the earlier series as they don't have a lot of the modern "tech" built into them. Stovebolts are the old school engine. :)

Originally Posted by JR25 (Post 6189454)

Yep, mine is a 235....... Old school! That was my quoted text, I just posted it here as well hoping someone on this thread had dealt with it before.

I hope to be able to post pics of my engine on here when it is done..... If yall dont mind seeing "old school" 6's!
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Originally Posted by Vernski (Post 6189509)

I think some pic's of the area in question would help, I would think you could JB-weld the holes that were drilled after you re-installed the bolts. Just make sure it's free of oil so it will stick good. I've had a few 235's overhauled but sent the block out to have them checked out and then re-installed the rotating assembly, just never had encountered your specific problem..Vernski:lol:

Originally Posted by chevy_mike (Post 6189772)

Wow, that's just a crazy design. LOL Sounds like you have it handeled

Originally Posted by K98AL (Post 6190744)

I put a Weber 32/36 on my 235 - I'm running Fenton headers, HEI ignition, everything else is pretty stock. Had engine rebuilt 15,000 miles ago.
The standard 140/140 jets left me way too rich, I swapped for 135/155. (thanks Rich!!!)
Still too rich, I put a 130 in primary side. Not much difference. With idle screw not touching the linkage, and idle mix screw adjusted for good running, (around 1 turn out) - I'm still running more RPMs than I should....
Does a 120 or 125 primary jet sound right to you with Weber experience?

Originally Posted by chevy_man5 (Post 6194897)

Thanks JR25!!

Originally Posted by Vernski (Post 6196291)

Here is a cool link this would be quite a motor it' a Chevy vortec 4200 I6 24 valve dual overhead cam all aluminum block and it produces 270 hp from 256 cu. 90% of the torque from 1600-5600 rpm. "Holy crap Batman"..Vernski:metal:

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ne_six_engine/