Re: My Build - "Orange Bliss"
 

You have plenty of room to push that sucker back a bit! Depending on what you are running for fans and radiator you may have to push it back, don't order a drive shaft just yet.... Nice work this should be a fun project!

Re: My Build - "Orange Bliss"
 

Thank you May70! I'll definitely add that to the list. Something like a front disc kit with drop spindles? Do you think a rear conversion is necessary?

I was also thinking of adding a Eaton TrueTrac Torsen differential. I'd keep the 3.73 ratio.

The outer rocker isn't finished yet! The body work really got me down. The drivetrain got me excited. I'm leaning towards having a local shop finish the body. It will save me some gray hair.

Re: My Build - "Orange Bliss"
 

Well a lot of folks defend the drums and say you don't need discs. In my opinion anyone who argues the performance of drums over discs does not have experience with modern performance disc brakes. I have a set on my 6 lug truck that can stop that truck faster than any drum brake setup I've ever seen. If it were the case that drums are better than disc you would not see nearly every new/car or truck coming with disc brakes.

Anyway, you should definitely put power brakes at minimum in it with that motor. Assuming you put disc brakes in the front I think you would be fine with drums in the back. El dorodo rotor/calipers are a direct swap and you get to keep your E brake. A lot of rear disc conversions either dont have an e brake OR you have to have two calipers on each rotor (which is just not a good idea..). At that point its just a budget decision but 5/6 lug can be done fairly cheap and will save you the hassle/cost of having to rebuild your drum components.

If you can afford to have it done by someone else and have somewhere reputable, you will most definitely spare yourself grey hairs at minimum. You might actually be able to get it done sooner! HAH, I wish I could speed this up myself!!

Just fyi if you do disc brakes you will need a proportioning valve, master cylinder and the lines need to be larger. There are a bunch of threads on it.

One big handling difference is having a front sway bar also which a lot of c10 owners rave at the difference. You should go through all the front end suspension either way. Probably time for new ball joints etc..

You also do not have to use drop spindles to convert to disc fust FYI. You can keep stock ride height.

Re: My Build - "Orange Bliss"
 

Woodnears - I took your advice and moved it back further. I slid it all the way back until the trans hit, then slid it forward about 1 inch. In the end, it moved back about another 1.5".

I was very worried about trans hump clearance. I spent days searching forums. I'm no longer worried! :lol: The low hump cab will definitely clear a 4L80E transmission.


Attachment 2050211


14" to fit the accessory drive, radiator and fan.
Attachment 2050212


Lots more clearance for the pan.
Attachment 2050213


There is about another inch of adjustability left in the slider adapter plates.
Attachment 2050214


This makes it look like there is tons of room. If I cut/or bend the trans vent, I could probably move it back another 1/2 inch. Maybe tomorrow!
Attachment 2050215

Re: My Build - "Orange Bliss"
 

A ton has happened in the past year or two. I ended up taking the pickup into a hot rod shop for some body work and a paint job. I'm really happy with the results. This saved me a ton of time, time that I got to spend with my young kids and wife.

A few nights ago I installed some miscellaneous external rubber and got the EFI fuel pump module installed.

I did up changing my mind on the transmission. Tonight I pulled the 4L80E to make room for a Tremec TKX 5 speed. My two oldest boys were out helping me. The Harbor Freight scissor transmission jack worked very well, my only complaint is how high i had to lift the vehicle to get the trans out (first world problems). I supported the engine from the bottom using an old dirtbike stand.
Attachment 2210120


Attachment 2210121