Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

I've never had any major issues with a TH350. Always minor stuff like fluid leaks and one cracked modulator diaphragm. My last two TH350s, both behind mild 350s, have been bulletproof and mostly leak-proof. Maybe a Gear Vendors OD unit behind a TH350 is the answer!

Speaking of leaks, a cast aluminum pan will fix pan gasket leaks forever. I have also found that worn rubber motor mounts and trans mounts will let engine and trans move around too much, wearing out the shift shaft seal.

Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

LS. :burnout:

Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

:rolleyes:

Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

If I could trade my like new 350/350 combo for a 120k mile LS/4L60 I would definitely do that.

Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

I was kinda kidding, but just saying. For a fuel efficient driver you cant touch it with a carbed small block. The 700r will help, yes but I'm not sure I'd spend the cash to swap it. Tire size and of course shoe size matters too.

I like them all. I'm a BBC guy actually you just cant beat the LS for fuel economy. I'd save my 700r swap money and find a good 6.0 / 4L80.

With respect to the purists if that's your taste, go with it. Just my opinion.

Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

Using o/d without a lock up converter is asking for failure.
Make sure you have a large cooler on that transmission or you will cook it to death in o/d.

Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

I'll check with Art Carr first, but do the math. It depends on axle ratio. A 2004R with a 3.73 axle wouldn't be much different than running a 2500 stall converter with a non-lock TH350. But in both cases you'd need an aux trans cooler.

Yes, you still have to install the TV cable correctly, but it's not rocket science. Pretty easy to do, especially with the pan off to make sure the TV lever is just touching the valve with throttle linkage at idle and choke open (no fast idle). In fact, I like a few thousands preload.

Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

o/d loads the transmission differently, than 1 to 1, and because of this, heats the fluid.
Track vehicle or week end short cruiser. ya, not much of an issue, something you drive a lot, it is a big issue. It gets costly when you burn up o/d gear.
I ran a 2800 (non lock up) stall in a 2004r in a 3.73 geared 26" tall tire vehicle, and when in o/d the fluid temp gets toasty . The transmission would shift into o/d at 45mph, and that speed is much lower than the 2800 stall.
I can only go by what I have seen with the 9 vehicles I have owned with the 2004r. I would not run one without a lock up converter and use o/d for any length of time. A simple switch, and you can have no lock up all you want,, then turn it on when in o/d or just cruising around and don't need the higher stall,unlocked converter .and have the transmission live a long happy life.

Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

Well, OK. That sounds like some good advice based on your real-life experience.

Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

If you do go with a 700R4 check out TV-Made-Ez for Bowtie Overdrives. Their website sucks and half of it isn't working, but if you call them they're super helpful. I'm doing this swap currently just to make the highway manners better until I do my LT swap.

Re: Trying to do the logical thing.
 

Somebody watches Vice Grip Garage. That dude is awesome. A C10 is sitting for 23 years and he drives it home with just the tools you can find at AutoZone.