Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
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I still haven't decided whether or not I'm ok with the motor mount sitch-e-ation.. I'm leaning toward adding some more metal down there. |
Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Glad to see you started a build thread!
That's a great truck to start with - 5 lug, disc front, wide rear axle, coils, all the good stuff. And it's got sentimental value. Keep us posted! |
Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Can't wait to see the progress!
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
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I think it was around this time frame that I went to the Pate Swap Meet. I had planned to get as many bulky parts as I could, so as to save on freight and get the "swap meet price". I scored a new set of wheels and tires from Mr. Coy of Coy's Wheels, picked up my rear wheel disc brakes pre-ordered from Auto City Classics, a full set of upper and lower side trim with wood grain, a chrome grille surround and insert, a set of vent windows, emblems, mirrors, handles and all kinds of rubber seals and gaskets from The Truck Shop.
The rear disc brakes were just a bolt on affair and the cheapest kit out there. I don't expect any performance gains over the stock drum brakes, but mainly changed over to have a matching look. Also changing pads is waaay easier than shoes. |
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It was now time to address the cabs rust. For years I took pride in what I thought was a "rust free" truck. Probably 10 years ago I noticed a few small holes in the rocker panel where the sill plate meets. I took the seat out and sill plates off and cleaned it up while looking for the extent of the damage. There wasn't enough there to upset me so I took the easy approach. I happened to have quite a bit of left over fiberglass mat and resin left over from a previous project, so I slapped a layer over all the holes I could find and went forward. Fast forward to 2017.... knowing that I wanted an actual rust free truck I knew it was time to dig as deep as I needed to get new metal where ever cancer was hiding. Thankfully all I had to replace were both outer rockers, one inner rocker, 2 lower kick panel patches, and 2 small sections of the floorboard. Still not too bad compared to most trucks I see.
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Undercoating fun! I used a roller to lay this stuff down. I did like the finish, but in hindsight spraying it would have given me more coverage. I used a very low nap roller, but it still soaked up a bunch of it. In the last pic I'm just wanting to show you what I did for best access to get to the underside of the cab for this job, it's a piece of 3/4" plywood with 4 of those wheel dollies screwed to each corner underneath.
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
I like the coys. And does Mr Coy show up there every year? Kinda cool you got to buy wheels from him at pates!
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If I'm wrong on any of this I'm open to a wheel or product education. First pic is a Rocket Mag wheel Second is a Ridler 695 Third is the Torq Thurst II Pic with giant tires mounted are the Coy's |
Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Those wheels are slick. Are you running 245/45's front and rear?
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Very cool story and a great start to the truck!
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After all the reading I did I decided to follow 65standard's method for shortening the bedside on the drivers side. If you haven't seen his method I would encourage you to check out his thread. I would post the link if I knew how... but the name of it is "A different approach to a LWB to SWB conversion." The drivers side was dent free and I really liked the idea of less welding. Basically, he removes the front spot welds from the leading edge of the bedside, removes the 12 inches, then wraps the metal back around, and re welds the spot welds. That explanation probably made it clear as mud...
I did a different method on the passenger side. Since I had a dent with a pretty hefty crease in it in front of the rear wheel, that's where I removed the front 12 inch section required. These pics are not in the correct order, but you get the idea... |
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continued...
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Rear portion of bedside whackage. While I had the tail light section removed it made it easy to bang out the dent that used to be in the spot that I circled.
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Slappin' it all back together....
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Next came sanding panels and spraying epoxy.
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more...
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Since I'll have a 6 speed automatic trans with a final drive of 0.67, and a 29.75" tire I figure I can go with a steeper gear. I swapped out the 3.07 one wheel peel for a 4.11 gear in an Eaton Truetrac rear diff. The calculator tells me my rpm in 6th gear will be 2275 with a speed of 75 MPH. I believe it'll be a serious tire shredder. The stock L83 puts out 385/hp and 385 ft.lbs. :chevy:
This was a fairly intimidating part of the build. I have no experience with rebuilding a rear differential. I took the same approach as I always do, read all about it, ask a ton of questions, and go for it. I still don't know if I did it right yet, but when the time comes, I'll take it nice and slow to hopefully catch any mistakes I made before it grenades. This job required me to expand my tool chest which is always a bonus.:lol: I have wanted a press for a long time anyways, and who can't use a dial indicator every once and a while? Now all I need to do is remember to fill the dang thing with oil. Unfortunately I have a history of forgetting the oil... yeah... that one cost me a perfectly good T-56. |
Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Great work on your box.
As far as rear end oil, a simple thing that really helped me was sitting down every couple weeks and making a list of important things to do. Cross off and update as needed. Without a list it's to easy to miss something as there is so much to do over a long period. |
Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Okay, you are very modest about your bodywork skills. It takes a lot of patience and skill to shorten bedsides and it looks like yours came out great.
Like sprint said, lists are important. I've maintained a list/schedule throughout my build and at times it's had tasks as broad as "assemble bed" or as specific as "fill differential". I use it to lay out my plan of attack every weekend which helps me to know when I need to order parts and be as efficient with my time as I can. This amount of planning (combined with working on it almost every Saturday) has helped me to get my truck done in just over a year. I've also had the help of my dad throughout and the experience of a prior project which are both huge factors. Is your YZ a 250 or 450? I have a 450, but it's old by today's standards (2009). I haven't ridden it in months though. Been having too much fun working on trucks. |
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
I almost went into a whole Texans speech about being grounded. But I will refrain. LoL.
Excellent work neighbor. Did you say "hold my beer" before you went for it on the rear end? If not you might need to redo it :D And speaking of neighbor, I'm moving south man, found a few acres below ft worth. Finally get to build a shop and get out of this cookie cutter business with a tiny 2 car garage. I might need to borrow that press sometime soon, very nice. I could have used one of those a few times already. I'll bring the beer. |
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The Yamaha is a YZ250XF... 2015 I think. I got that one over my life long love with Suzukis because it had electric start and the RMZ250 didn't have that feature yet. The yz also has a 6 speed, which in hindsight I'd rather have the 5 speed. I don't even have the ability to hit 5th gear on my track, so 6th is a waste. If someday I find myself running from the cops :lol: I'll have no trouble. The thing will do 99 MPH according to my GPS app. My buddy and I bought YZ's the same day, he got the 450 and I stayed with a 250. Every now and then, I'll hop on his for a lap or two. Even though I'll be grinnin' the whole time, I know its not the bike for me. I live in pain from previous wrecks all of which happened on the one 450 I ever owned, a 2005 CRF450X. I rode that for one year (injured half of the time) and went back to a Suzuki Rmz250. The crashing stopped... I blame my tendency to have whiskey throttle. My 250 is manageable for my skill level, and I've learned the hard way what my limits are. |
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