Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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Mine in the works
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
I’m in for this build for sure, to answer your question on your other thread, I really like the TTII’s I have. The only problem I’m having is with the backspacing on the rear wheels and my narrow rear axle I’m running in the burb. They don’t fit at all without running a wheel spacer or adapter which I’m not a fan of. Trying to figure out what I want to do about it now.
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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In for the ride too. I have always had a spot for these blazers, especially the 2wd versions. The DEG parts look good.
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
Great thread!
The only thing I would add to the Deadend Garage parts,... is a 2" lowering block to help keep your ride height low,... with the correct pressure in the air bags. I'm glad to see someone document a 4x4-to-2wd conversion with Deadend Garage parts. |
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The 1-piece VN515 or the 2-piece VN405 wheels? The 1-piece wheels are cheaper but only come in set backspaces. 20x8 (4.5"bs) and 20x10 (5.75" bs) The 2-piece wheel comes in 20x8, 20x9.5, 20x10, 20x12, and 20x15 with a large variety of backspaces. When I ordered mine for my blazer I specified the backspace I wanted, since they were going through the custom shop anyway. |
Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
I hope you realize that converting a 4X4 to 2WD in Utah is a felony.
J/K- I subbed now. ;) |
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Those look so good on your suburban! Sorry for hijacking your thread gringoloco. |
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I’ve been wanting to document a conversion for a while now; I’m personally more interested in properly locating the front crossmember for prosperity, as there seems to be lots who have done it, but no definitive guidance. The DEG parts should make the rear a snap; remains to be seen! Quote:
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Dang, a few days away and I've missed a lot of conversation. Your plan sounds great! I'll be following along.
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I've always thought about these conversions in great depth. For me personally,... I would move the entire crossmember forward 1" to help center the wheels on low trucks. I know this means, moving sway bar mounts, idler arm holes, and the steering box holes,... but to me it would be worth it. Especially if you could weld and do it yourself,... which I know you can. I remember seeing this mod years ago on a squarebody blazer converted to 2wd. But I can't remember which magazine it was in. |
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If you think about it, moving the whole crossmember forward isn’t a whole lot different from using 1” forward tubular arms, as far as steering linkage geometry is concerned when related to the pitman and idler arm locations (someone please correct me if I’m under-thinking this). Stock type anti-sway bars can have the ends trimmed and linkage style bars might be able to absorb the difference (or have bushing locations redrilled, as you stated, thankfully, I’m starting from scratch there). All that to say, it may not be too terribly complicated to gain that extra inch. 104” wheelbase is stock, so probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 105” will look “right”. I’m pretty excited to finally get to play with one (the yellow Blazer was already converted when I bought it). Let’s find out together :chevy: |
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
BTW, this explanation from Livrat sounds like the easiest way to correctly locate the holes for a 4x4 to 2wd swap. I don't know if you have access to a set of front framerails off of a 2wd truck though.
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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These frame diagrams have been reposted a number of times here on the forum. They do not contain all of the required info, but are a great start. Big thanks to the original poster, Rod, whoever/wherever you are...
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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Notice that the front crossmember on the 2wd is located based on axle centerline (CL), which is only possible to find with control arms and spindles installed, and at ride height. It is much easier to locate axle CL on the 4wd frame as it’s centered in the bumpstops.
We can decipher that the factory placed the front axle CL 21.90” behind the core support bushing CL. This is found by subtracting the 16.50” measurement from the seemingly arbitrary line drawn 38.40” behind the core support mounts. This measurement is the same on both 4wd and 2wd frames. |
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Kinda like the guys did in the old days when addinging subframes to straight axle vehicles. Draw everything out on the floor. I agree you will have to assemble some of the crossmember,... but without springs in place it shouldn't be too hard to mock up exactly where you want the wheel to set in the front fenders. Or am I over simplifying things? |
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Moving to the rear, we see that GM located the trailing arm crossmember 70.43” from the core support CL. This is derived by adding the seemingly arbitrary 38.40” reference from the core support bushing CL to the 32.03” measurement, which appears to align with the forward-most upper crossmember mounting hole. Correctly ocating the trailing arm crossmember also correctly located the rear axle CL.
This measurement seems to fairly accurately correlate with findings here on the board of previous conversions (including my own), which utilize existing holes in the 4wd frame, following removal of the existing bracket (photo courtesy member notsolo). This reference gets us in the neighborhood. We will see how it pans-out with the location of the DEG c-notch, which due to the contours of the frame, is relatively fixed. |
Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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Here’s a pic of my old Blazer showing how the wheel is centered in the rear wheel well when using the “existing hole” method:
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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Member sierragrande71 located his front crossmember using two existing holes in the frame, which looks to fairly closely center the front wheels in the arches. Kinda hard to tell, due to the angle and height of fenders.
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