Originally Posted by 1restorick (Post 2967424)

Sir, I have this transmission in my 1963 truck and it looks identical to yours. My column shift linkage is stock. This transmission works real nice, however my first gear is still non-sychromesh. The overdrive feature is awesome and with a 4:11 rear gear, I only spin 2000 rpm at sixty miles per hour. Best of luck in the install. It should be very straight forward. You will need a heavy duty relay and a gas pedal switch for the kickdown feature. Building a wiring harness for this installation is very straight forward.

Rick

Originally Posted by BluTrukker (Post 3256110)

Thats the info I have been looking for. Thanks so much. So if it draws 20amps, a relay that can handle 25 or 30 amps should be sufficient?

Originally Posted by Gianyveedub (Post 4736158)

In regards to ratio, it is a .70:1 ratio. The trans is a Saginaw and I would expect that like anything that is well taken care of, it should handle quite a bit. Not 500 hp, but a small block should do fine. They used to put these things behind 283's. :metal:

Originally Posted by kieth (Post 4736732)

I did not look at the above relay wiring job, he wired it the way he wanted to, the instruction below are for a relay that comes prewired. Kieth

You will find the relay which is shown above with the plastic cap already prewired. I use them all the time.

1. The Blue wire is the supply for the 12 volt power to the relay.( Hot all the time)

2. The yellow wire is the supply of 12 volt power when you activate the relay

3. The Red center wire is not normally used but it supplies 12 volt power when the relay is not activated

4. The black wire is the ground for the relay (used here cleverly to only activate the OD when it is in the correct range of speed. )

5. The white wire is the trigger wire (activates the relay and sends power to the yellow)--controled here by a switch with a light that shows it is engaged)

They are really simple but when you look at them for the first time it gets really confusing ........Kieth

Originally Posted by Joemomma1 (Post 3201608)

What kind of vehicle has these? Wouldnt a 700R4 be simpler?

Originally Posted by joedoh (Post 4736765)

could you use a pair of relays and tap into the brake wire as a latching input, so that when you tap the brake the overdrive disengages? if the brake wire isnt the desired input you could put a brake switch on the clutch pedal and do the same thing. I can help you design that circuit if needed.







a relay is a low current to high current switch, it doesnt need a "ground" and no pin is required to have 12v "hot all the time"

looking at the bottom of a relay there are 3 vertical pins and two horizontal pins. the two outside vertical pins (85 and 86) are the low current switch, you can feed ground or voltage to either pin as a switched input, and use the opposite voltage of what is input on the other side. If you use 12v on 85 as your switch input, you will need a corresponding ground on 86. If you use ground on 85 as a switched input, you will need 12v on the other side. Your switched input is really any signal that you would like to energize the relay but is not strong enough or is the wrong polarity to energize the circuit.

The top horizontal and bottom vertical pins (87 and 30) are the high current switch. when 85 and 86 have the right voltage, 87 will be connected to 30. If you supply heavy gauge 12v to 87, when the low current switch is energized that sme high current voltage will be on 30 through connection internal to the relay.

87a, the middle horizontal pin, is to supply a normally open signal to 30. When the relay is not energized, 87a is tied to 30. when the relay is energized 87 is tied to 30.