Re: Steve's tinkerings
:lol: It's been in the family for years.
I've been playing with a few different boot configurations and didn't find what i was looking for so I've decided to stay with the current set up. The boot and shifter i have will work when i install the twin stick so long as i adjust the rod lengths a bit. I'm wanting to go with a 40-20-40 split bench so i'll recess the jump seat a bit for clearance. It should work out. Have you sprayed yours yet Larry? |
Re: Steve's tinkerings
Quote:
Nah, not yet. Got to finish up the floor repair first. The Rhino appointment is loosely scheduled for Friday the 28th. |
Re: Steve's tinkerings
Very cool truck. Great bumpers - should keep Bambi out of the radiator.
Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: Steve's tinkerings
Quote:
|
Re: Steve's tinkerings
2 Attachment(s)
I addressed my worn out rear brakes yesterday.
Off with the old Attachment 681672 On with the new Attachment 681673 The conversion was fairly painless. First i pulled the drum and backing plate off. From the front of the drum i used an air hammer and drove the studs out freeing the hub. Bearings and seals looked good. The rotors used in the conversion are 1973-1987 3/4 ton fronts found on Dana 44's and Corp 10 bolts. I lined up the new rotors to the hubs and rattled the wheel studs back in replacing any that looked ruff. Next I bolted the DIY4x caliper brackets to the backing plate brackets on the 14 bolt positioning them 45* to the rear. Then i installed the new disk/hub assembly and torqued the spindle nuts. Calipers used are also from 73-87 3/4 ton fronts. I used non ebrake calipers which there are two to choose from. The difference is the banjo bolts used for the hoses. From what i found 73-78's use SAE banjos and 79-87's use metric. I used 7/16" SAE here. Load the pads in the caliper and bolt them on the brackets using the supplied hardware. I had one slight hiccup in the process here. One of the DIY brackets was bent too shallow by about 1/16" which ended up being enough to not allow the caliper to clear the mounting tabs and slide over the rotor. I made sure the piston was pressed all the way into the caliper but it still wouldn't fit. So I made a quick trip to the local alignment shop for shims. A 1/16" alignment shim behind the caliper bracket bolts brought the bracket into position for the caliper to properly fit over the rotor. Lastly I installed my brake lines, bolted in the axles, bleed the brakes, and slapped the wheels back on. Currently i am running a 1 ton brake booster/master cylinder combo and an aftermarket proportioning valve that is designed for both disk/drum and disk/disk combos. I may have some questions about this later today as there might be proportioning bugs to work out. I'll monitor the braking action as im running errands. I'll address that as i experience it and seek advise. All around though i hope the conversion performs as well as it looks.:mm: |
Re: Steve's tinkerings
The one thing stopping me asside from having the spare cash is the proportioning valve and plumbing it. My luck it would become a headach!
|
Re: Steve's tinkerings
Nice work, would you mind, how much did the swap cost total?
|
Re: Steve's tinkerings
Quote:
$45/loaded caliper x 2 $65 DIY4x brackets $50 hoses and misc = umm.. carry the two.... about $385. Forgot shipping on the brackets so closer to $400. This would not have been an economical swap if but for two reasons: 1: Both the shoes and drums were completely shot and needed replacing. A quick guess on price for New Napa Premium Drums, shoes, and adjuster hardware kit would be roughly $275-300 for both sides. 2: There was no proportioning valve in the truck when i bought it years ago so i put in the disk/drum disk/disk prop valve in anticipation of replacing the rear drums with disks when they wore out. |
Re: Steve's tinkerings
Really nice job on the truck, i like how you made the truck even better than stock and yet it is still a capable dialy driver without going extreme.
Where did you mount your proportiong valve and how difficult was the mod?:gmc2: |
Re: Steve's tinkerings
Quote:
The proportioning block is in the stock location. It looks almost stock but it had a provision to remove a small spring loaded valve when the user wanted to switch to 4 wheel disks. Are you thinking this was an adjustable proportioning valve for adjusting bias on the rear brakes? I may still need to do that, just don't know yet. Need to drive more. |
Re: Steve's tinkerings
Are you thinking this was an adjustable proportioning valve for adjusting bias on the rear brakes? I may still need to do that, just don't know yet. Need to drive more.[/QUOTE]
Yes, i thought you had an adjustable one installed. Did you get your current one at the parts store? |
Re: Steve's tinkerings
no i ordered away for it. It's been so long and i don't have the receipt but regardless it looks just like this critter:
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ods/PVKU-4.htm IIRC there is a valve and spring under the black boot that a guy can remove or tinker with that switches this prop valve from disk/drum to disk/disk capable. But I gota do my homework yet before i go monkeying with mine since i lost that receipt and there is not a part number on mine. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:05 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com