Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Are you wondering, Why are we taking off the bed sides? To put new ones on of coarse. We want to run 335-30-18's, all the way around. This will never work on a normal S10. So, we're going FAT. We go some 4" wider, 2" up bedsides and fenders from Superior Glassworks. Yep, Off-Road stuff. The four parts cost about $800 bucks. We were very carefull pulling the stock bedsides, and got $200 for the sides and stock front fenders, all in good shape.

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

That's going to look aggressive !!
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Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Bits more progress today. This is a budget build, and we're trying to keep it mostly a bolt-together build. So far I don't think we've done anything that is too tough for the average guy. We definately need to drop this thing, a lot. The amount of spring drop is limited som ewhat, we want to try to keep the lower A-arm level, so slamming the spring is out. We can get about 2 1/2" from the spring. We also need better brakes than the S10 is able to give. So here's the experiment. "92 - '96 Impalla 2 1/2" drop spindles. They use a 12" rotor and a full size GM floating caliper. The good news is, total bolt-on. Ball joint and tie-rod fit and taper are the same. They just bolted right on. But, there is some bad news. The pin inclination is not the same, so it forces some positive camber, no good. Also, the upper ball joint angle is not so good, this is from the spring drop. I'm going to look for a bolt on upper A-arm to fix this. Sprindles, $229, rotors, $118.80, so far, so good.

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

the fenders will look sweet when its on the ground!

ryan

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Thats a semi common spindle swap in the s10 community, i cant remember off the top of my head the name of the companies that sell the 1" narrowed "B body tall spindle swap" upper control arms. My buddy has that setup with tubular uppers, lowers and coilovers on his first gen and loves it.


What brand are those rotors and where'd you get them? Im liking the dual bolt pattern so they can be converted back to the s10 pattern.

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Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Very interesting build, I`m along for the ride.

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Im in

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

I like the direction this is going! Dad has a '97 SS/ZQ8 with a 4.3 and 5 speed that I'd like to have when he decides to sell it.
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Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Also i forgot the mention.. the steering arm on the b body spindle sits lower so it introduces more bumpsteer into the system. You have a few options, can run the proforged taller lower balljoint (lowers the truck 1/2" more too) and if necessary run an adjustible height outer tierod that replaces the factory tierod with the tapered bolt and then regular heim joint.

Also one last thing, for anyone wanting to do this swap and dont want fancy dual pattern rotors, you can buy stock replacement 89-92 camaro 1le rotors. They have to be the 1le setup size!
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Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Thanks for the tips. The rotors are ours, from our Wide-Ride IFS, they use the impalla 12" gear. We have the rotors made with the dual pattern, makes it easier on the customer. - list is 73.50 each. Good to know the info on the other stuff. thanks.

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Love the Pro Touring anything! I'm in..

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

nice build, im watching this for sure

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Cool stuff Rob! I have not been on here in years and a buddy told me about the project since I have similar plans for my 98 sonoma. I'll probably have some questions at RTTC if I can get away from the autocross timing table for a little bit lol.

Robert

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

I like to use 98+ blazer spindle. It makes big brake swaps eazy!

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

I came here to suggest the pre runner fenders, good job. I've had this build in my head for a few years. I can't wait to see the finished product!
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Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Good stuff, as always, Rob...keep it up!!

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Stumbled across this build checking out your other ones.. bump for updates!

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

Well 2 months and ............

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

updates? really want to see prerunner fenders on a street truck

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

I was going to suggest this! 11.8" Rotor I believe? As well as dual piston calipers! I'm running that setup on my hot rod frame. Are you going to disc brake conversion on the rear as well?

I really like the way this truck is going! It is going to look mean as hell!

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

If your running a 98+ 2wd blazer spindle... you also have the incredibly easy route for running 13" c5 corvette and even crazier 14" z06 corvette rotors and calipers. :)
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Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

We've made a bunch of progress. here's some updates.
The steering fix took two steps. 1. We moved the lower ball joint out 1.00" and forward .300" this fixed the camber and caster. We got weld in ball joint cups from Speedway, cut the arms with a hole saw, and welded the new sockets in, they use OE ball joints. 2. Next was to fix the bump steer. After much testing, we came up with the correct location for the inner pivit points. New mounts were made from 3/4" thick steel, same as the stock center link, drilled and tapered for the OE tie rod end, then welded to the stock center link. Not to high tech, but very effective. Static alignmentis -1* camber, +7* caster, 1/8" toe out. This has .057" total bump steer in 6" of travel.

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

The engine fits, but it's tight. We swapped to an 8" dual diaphram booster and that helped. The engine is set back a bit, and the tunnel was modified to fit. E-Bay S10 swap headers were used, they're ok, but tight fit. I think OE camaro manifolds would fit better.

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

That is a tight fit. You did not say anything about the sway bar mounted on top of the frame connected to the upper a-arms...Looks cool with those curved blade style arms.

Re: Pro-Touring S10
 

The Front Sway Bar. Here's some info for ya. If you put a 335-30-18 on an S10, and actually turn the steering wheel, there is NO room for the stock style sway bar. None. So we tried to fit a splined bar in the stock location, - nope. Then we tried going under the lower arm, -nope. So, we tried this. It fits, yes. After the first test drive, the bar doesnt have enough effect on the suspension. I think we need to move the link and arm mount outboard, Right now it is at appx 50% out on the upper arm, not enough motion ratio. The bar is made of 1 3/8" x .188 wall DOM, with end cap plates welded on. the bar was then heat treated to normalize it. I have never done tthis before so it's a learning curve. I read a whole bunch about doing this, so we'll see. The arms are simple 3/8" plate steel cut out to fit, and bent in a press. Delron bushings and rod end links.