Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

That looks like the Russell performance logo and a 1990 build date to me. http://www.russellperformance.com/ They are owned by Edelbrock now but a quick web search reveals they used to produce a few suspension parts back in the 90's.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Thanks, I contacted Russell a year ago to see if they could tell me anything about them. The guy on the phone insisted they never made them. I asked him how long he has been with the company,,, he said 10 years. Then I asked him if there was anybody there that was around in the 90's. He laughed and said no. Times they are a changin!

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I know they sold spindles under the Russell name years & years ago. But, that was years & years ago so internet searching for some old instructions or tech stuff is probably the best you'll find if you find anything At all.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

http://russellperformance.com/
http://russellperformance.com/images...go-russell.png
I don't think they make spindles any longer.

EDIT:
...I just looked back through this post, I guess I was a little late with that information.:rolleyes:

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

After several Google searches there was nothing helpful at all.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

UPDATE:
Well after watching several videos and tons of research I'm guessing I have 5 or 6 inch drop springs (as lolife99 suggested) in the rear with 2 inch lowering blocks so total drop of 7 or 8 inches. So basically a fraction of an inch from the factory bump stop and about 1-1/2 inches from the tubing hitting the frame. In other words limited travel. I was going to C notch the frame with a CPP kit but if I do it's likely going to cause the rear end housing to hit the bed floor and my over the axle exhaust. With the tubing jacked up touching the frame I have about 1-1/4 inches before the diff hits the bed floor and about an inch before the tubing hits the over axle exhaust. I guess my choices are to C notch it and install bump stops to limit travel or remove the 2 inch lowering blocks and see how it looks. I was also thinking to try leaving things as they are and cut the factory bump stops so I get a little more travel but not hit the frame. I do not want to alter the exhaust or the bed floor to accommodate the extra room I'll have with the c notch. Guys I've been working as a mechanic most of my life so I'm no stranger to all of this but I'm NOT familiar with the drop modifications available and the consequences for doing it. Lack of experience on my part. I removed the rear springs to try and Identify them with no luck. They are free standing at 9-1/2 inches and have a .692" wire diameter. What I DON'T UNDERSTAND is why the front sits as low as it does with ONLY drop spindles and stock springs with new lower control arms. I know they are stock replacements because I installed them. Any suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks
Jim

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

You're saying you put the "stock" springs in there & stock a-arms?

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Yes. The front has stock replacement lower A arms and Moog stock 6082 coil springs. As I said earlier I can't identify the drop spindles.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I went back to look @ the pics again.

Your front wheel/tire combo measures @ 26.6". Given the gap above to the fender lip, I'll say 3" spindle drop up front. At 27.7" in the back, probably 3" springs & 2" blocks.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Scoti
Thanks for your opinions on this. I guess I'll have to figure out what to do about the rear drop. Not quite enough clearance to leave it but a C notch will create other issues. I may have to live with a bumpy ride?

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Another thing that concerns me is the rear shocks. Although they don't bottom out at full compression, they travel well beyond the spring at full extension. If the springs weren't bolted top and bottom they would fall out when the suspension was completely extended. What do guys do in this situation?

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

You need a shock that doesn't bottom out on compression or extension. If it doesn't do that, you're ok. Shock angle can always be improved on the Truck-arm set-ups vs how they came from GM.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=451200

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Thanks SCOTI

Usually it's the shocks bottoming out that keeps the suspension from fully extending and springs from falling out.

Suspension fully extended sitting on the shocks.

I have shock relocation brackets installed.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e5109664_b.jpg

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

The coils should be bolted in top & bottom.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Yeah I know. Just had everything out to measure up for a C notch and wanted to show how much more the shocks travel than the springs.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I figured it was something like that. But sometimes 'ya never know so its worth mentioning.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I'm a little concerned about my shocks after I install my C notch. Can anyone help me with a part number for some shocks with a 6 inch drop? Mine will be close to bottoming out with the extra travel.
Thanks!

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

I got my shocks from Bell tech. I called them and told what I have (6"rear drop/4" front drop) and they gave me the part number for the front and rear. They offer two types. They told me to buy the less expensive model.

Re: 68 C10 Lowering dilemma
 

Thank you! Iv'e been trying to find a parts source that doesn't answer AHH What, when I ask about shocks for a dropped C10!