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Did you change anything in the ignition at all? This is starting to sound spark related. I say this because Back when I was young (a long long time ago) we used to shut off the key while going down the road. We would wait a few seconds turn it back on and BOOM it would back fire. Sometimes blowing the mufflers up. Just a thought.
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Carb floats set too high?
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Search Edelbrock carb issues.
Lots of "out of the box" problems. Float too high. Won't take any more that 5.5psi. So a stock fuel pump that puts out 6-7 psi will need to be regulated down. Just a thought. I assume you have the correct gas cap? |
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Hey BB72CHEVKT ...
Just wanted to that is one sweet ride :metal: |
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Just letting ya know I'm watching let us know. I'm starting to think your flooding or losing spark intermittently. It will be interesting to see what they find
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I had an inline filter along with the one on the carb. Took the one out of the carb and it fired up. I want to keep the inline since its see thru for a while so I can see if anything is coming out of the tank. I'll eventually take it out and go back to the carb filter.
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Any updates?
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No updates from the shop yet.
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The metal fuel line has a jumper hose in the frame inboard of your third door and is an excellent place to plumb in a marine spin-on fuel filter ( available from West Marine or other online marine sources). This hose is bent in a "U" just like the jumper hose coming into the fuel pump, so check both of these to make sure they arent flattening out and sucking shut and that neither are leaking air. Any filtering should be done BEFORE the fuel pump! If you have a filter after the pump get clogged, it will shut down the flow from the pump...The 62 pickup I built for my son exhibited the same symptoms and what had happened there was....the truck had been inactive for several years and the fuel flow worked fine until our highly-solvent modern fuels loosened up the leftover crap in the lines turning it into a clogging goo, which I had to blow out with compressed air. Fuel hoses can also form annuerisms (a blister or flap inside) as they age....
As for ignition, I'll assume that you are using a points distributor, OR if you've switched to HEI, that you have replaced the resistance wire from the ignition switch with one that has no resistance. (HEI won't work without the full twelve volts) A common intermittant ignition problem with a points setup is the coil often fails intermittantly (usually when it warms up and you're a good distance from home) Don't ask me why, but if you remove the coil and shake it next to your ear and hear the oil sloshing inside, it's usually shot! There are other things to look for inside a distributor after these basics are covered! Good Luck to you! |
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The shop called and said they put 5 gallons of gas in it and it is running fine. They did not do a thing 3!@&^&^%%@! I just ordered an Eldebrock fuel pump and will go from there since they pump at 6 psi max. If my head was not already shaved I would be pulling my hair out for sure.
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did you tell them to drive it and put some miles on it to make sure it runs ok
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Well I hope all goes well, Keep us posted
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I went to pick it up and determined they did not drive it very far. I am beginning to wonder if there isn't a problem with the tank. The owner of the shop is supposed to drive it more tomorrow.
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Hopefully he can get it to fail while he's driving it.
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I hate intermittent problems, can't diagnois unless it acts up. Keep us posted, I for one am curious.
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Run it off of a gas can.
That will tell you if it's the tank of not. |
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Did you talk to fuel cell guy?
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Is it foam filled, like the racing ones?
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Just got a call from the shop that the alternator is bad. It is a rebuilt with no miles from Autozone so anything is possible. I am going to exchange it and swap it out my self tonight and hopefully they can find the problem tomorrow.
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I accidentally clicked on the burb section but that is one sweet ride!
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I rushed over to the shop after they closed and took the alternator off and took it back to Auto Zone and lucked out. I got a cool young kid who knew what he was doing. He tested the alternator and it tested fine but they can not check volts and according to the shop it was not right so he swapped it out with no questions. I upgraded from a 63 amp to a 96 amp for $30 with my warranty. I took it back to the shop and put it on then we tested it and bam 14 volts. The shop thinks this may be why it was dying and back firing. I left it with them and asked him to drive it some more tomorrow. He said he would but he didn't want to because it is going to make him want it more. It was cool to hear that from a guy who has some very nice expensive rides in his shop. |
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:lol: That is pretty cool!
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I forgot to mention the youngster even took the sepentine pulley off with an impact and put the v-belt pulley from the old one on for me.
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I picked it up today and drove here home and it ran fine. The shop adjust the timing a little and adjusted the carb a little as well. I am going to take it to the tranny shop because the tranny is slipping. I also need to change to a 3.73 rear end to go with the overdrive. The only other known problem at this time is the tire rubbing issue so I am going to order a set of spacers for the rear.
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I hope it's fixed, Keeping my fingers crossed:chevy:
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The are other known problems just none affect driveability at this time. Oops forgot I have a horn kit on order also. |
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Drove her 20 miles to work this morning. The tranny is slipping so I am going to take it to be looked at but everything else is SEEMED ok.
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Great! let me know when I can uncross my fingers, they're gettin' tired LOL
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Cool, glad it's all working out :chevy:
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