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- - 5 speed conversion with pics (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=212959)

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

Yup, I must have an NV4500 ... nice to know, seeing that no one had broken down the differences in them from what I'd read.

skchevota, can you take a pic or two of your master cylinder placement and where it attaches to the clutch pedal? Would be EXTREMELY helpful ... also, do you have a pic of your driveline? Just interested in seeing how yours sits ...

454, great info !!! ... thank you ...

Thanks,
Dave

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

Another thought just came to mind. I'm going to measure the pivot points on my S-10 clutch pedal. It isn't a full size but I'm guessing the clutch master cylinder has the same amount of travel.
I'll post those measurements asap.

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

The distance between the pivot points on my S-10 clutch pedal measures really close to
2-1/8 inches. (pedal hinge point to the clutch master cylinder rod attachment point)

As best as I could get up in there to read the tape...

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

Quote:

Originally Posted by 454_72_4X4 (Post 1948698)

The extremely short clutch throw is probabl due to the master cylinder rod pivot point being too far from the clutch pedal point.
I'm going to be converting to hydro clutch, (nv4500 soon), and the best way I've come up with to get the correct length for the pivot point is to measure the stock clutch pedal out of say, a 94 Chevy with a manual trans and hydro clutch.
I haven't gotten around to finding one to measure yet though.

The drive line angles...I didn't read all the posts, (yet), but I did see somebody mentioned 0 degrees. I don't think that would be correct.
The crankshaft centerline isn't "level" when an engine is installed. The carburetor pad should be level, or close to it.
The important thing on driveline angles is that the transmission output shaft angle matches the rearend pinion angle. Or as close as possible.

The reason I said that the angle should be zero degrees coming out of the transmission so you can minimize vibration. If you cannot achieve zero degrees then that is OK too. You will not have problems unless the angles are extreme. Can you measure the distance from the front of the cab to the front of your shifter? I would like to make the hole in my transmission hump but you really only get one chance to make it in the right spot. Since yours looks great I want to copy it.

Jody

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

Quote:

Originally Posted by 454_72_4X4 (Post 1950536)

mdlackey, your transmission has a seperate bellhousing, correct?
The reason I ask is from what I can see in your pics you have a NV4500 trans.
I think we have 2 different kinds of transmission conversions going on in this thread.

jodydewey has a NV3500, (integral [spelling?] bellhousing)
mdlackey has a NV4500, (seperate bolt on bellhousing)

These are completely different transmissions so the crossmember and driveshaft specs will be different between the two, but the hydro clutch setups are almost identical.

NV4500; (notice the shift tower and crossmember mount) This is a 4x4 version but the only difference is the ouput shaft and output housing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ff/NV45003.jpg

NV3500; (Had this one in my S-10, 4 sale for parts!LOL)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ale/5speed.jpg

Bolt on shifter towers for the NV3500 above;
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...edshifters.jpg

Newer style NV3500; (This one belongs to a buddy of mine)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...le/nv35002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...le/nv35001.jpg

I've also got a few pics of different hydro clutch setups, (in 67-72 trucks), I'm working on uploading them so I can post 'em here.

Stay tuned!

I agree with the NV3500 NV4500 stuff. When I saw the ring around the driveshaft yoke area on the pictures that spelled NV4500. When I saw the shifter location that looked nothing like mine and I noticed that the bellhousing was not integrated into the housing. That also spells NV4500. You are a lucky man though - the NV4500 is a tough tranny! Maybe that explains why you are having trouble getting it to fit - its HUGE.

I know I haven't posted any new pics lately, I didnt want to install the engine and transmission with me doing all this grinding and welding of rust panels. The weather hasn't been the best for me to work either. I have a plan now and if I can get my truck pushed into the backyard I can work on it under my awning.

Jody

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

The pictures above with the remote master cylinder - does anyone know what kind of vehicle that came out of? I don't think I am going to have problems when I switch to power brakes but if I do THAT remote master cylinder is the answer! The only thing that worries me about clearance is when I add power brakes. The master cylinder that I measured had a spacer bracket that measured 7 5/8 inches from the firewall. That was well beyond the clutch master cylinder of my truck.

I think I am going to redo the mounting of my clutch master cylinder. I am going to grind the welds so I can mount it flush. Maybe - maybe not. I finally got my truck moved to the backyard where I can finish the rust repair and get the engine and transmission installed. I will be building the transmission crossmember also. I will post pics of the crossmember with measurements so you can all copy it. When I get the engine and transmission mounted I will also post measurements of the locations for the holes in the hump and frame for the crossmember.

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GM PART # 12570277
CATEGORY: Hydraulic Clutch Main Cylinder/Rod
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $202.70
OUR PRICE: $120.16

This is the part I am trying to adapt for use with my particular NV3500 which came from a 99 s-10 4.3 with the internal release bearing and slave cylinder. This part 12570277 is from a late model f body.

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

Hey guys ... got my master cylinder mounted and have a much more do-able clutch throw. Been able to drive the thing. Had a rudamentary exhaust system put on so I don't tick off the neighbors. Indicate around 2100 roms when around 60-ish MPH.

My only concern, now, is if the throwout fully disengages, when in gears. Would hate to burn one of those up too quickly. I'm using the stock GMC master-slave cylinder setup from the donor truck.

Will take pics during the week and post them.

Anyone else have an update?

Dave

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

i believe that if the mastercyclinder comes fully back the trowout will release too , with the hydraulic system its selfadjusting

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

Mine turned out pretty well ... it's not a show truck by any stretch, but it functions great and I indicate @ 2000 rpm in 5th gear at reasonable highway speed. Haven't done any long distance trips with it.

Still kind of concerned about driveline angles, as my carrier bearing is tilted back a little, so I'm thinking about having another tranny x-member fab-ed that might have about an inch dip in it.

Going to be at the Good Guys Show in Loveland over the June 2nd weekend. May bring truck up and place in the Swap Meet lot to sell. Depends on what kind of "action" it might bring ... side topic ...

Dave

Re: 5 speed conversion with pics

Quote:

Originally Posted by eedgell (Post 2182163)

Does any one know how this all turned out?

Sorry it has taken me so long to post. My truck has soooo much rust that getting it all and making it look good before putting the engine and tranny back in are taking up all my time. So far I have had to remake the radiator core support, weld panels into the fenders, replace the inner fenders, passenger floor, inner and outer rockers, door pillars front and rear, repair panels on the passenger door (3 of them) and create an all new vent box on the passenger side. When I put in the outer rocker on the passenger side I didnt have the door installed and I set the outer rocker in too high. Now I can't close the door and have to start over again with the outer rocker. THEN, after all that is done, I still have to do the driver's side. This truck started as a driver and just turned out to be a big POS of rust. CAVEAT EMPTOR.

Jody