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-   -   West Coast 67 (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=234118)

jimmydean 04-10-2007 06:35 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Damn, Nate! That is the sweetest thing to date.

The red center smoothies are gorgeous! I might have to make some of those for myself.

cstm68 04-10-2007 06:39 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by XXL (Post 2119364)
Or... what about integrating the cowl into the hood itself? That's give you a single hood line from glass, to the top front edge, back to the glass. It'd take a little work on getting the hood tilt to pitch out enough to clear the glass, but you'd just have to ply your mad skillz to it.

like the 73-87 style hood to glass???

XXL 04-10-2007 06:40 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by cstm68 (Post 2119375)
like the 73-87 style hood to glass???

Ja.

cstm68 04-10-2007 06:41 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by XXL (Post 2119376)
Ja.

that would look cool

72CSTC5 04-10-2007 10:59 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
It would be different if the hood was built like that.

lutherb69 04-10-2007 11:23 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
That is some nice work. Had a question about the wheels. I wanted to get the specs on them like BS, 22x? things like that I want to run 22" on my 68 suburban. Will PM the question to you too.

RACINJASON22 04-10-2007 11:33 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5 (Post 2119861)
It would be different if the hood was built like that.

I agree and with the mad skillz (as XXL put it) that porterbuilt has it would look awesome IMO also.

No need to shave the cowl if you no longer have one right!

PBFAB.COM 04-11-2007 12:56 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by cstm68 (Post 2119217)
id like to see some more of what yer doing with the hood.
howcome after you ut the flat part out you cut the other section on the corrners ??

I cut it there because it would be too short when I went to graft it back in, and figured the easiest place to graft a filler piece in would be the edges. The hood leaves about an 1/8" to 3/8" gap on each side normally, then I cut about an 1/8" off the fender lip and the old hood lip so I could graft the two pieces together that means + or - 3/4" too short on each side when I went to fit the piece up. We will see how short it really is tomorrow. (XXL don't quote me on this!):lol:

PBFAB.COM 04-11-2007 12:58 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Those are some good ideas on the hood... sounds expensive to me! I doubt that we will see that mod taking place on this truck. Maybe another project in the future?

TRUCKER-TRUCKIN' 04-11-2007 05:58 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Man its like the difference between a surgeon and a chainsaw massacre, i usually hate seeing one cut up but this is some really nice work you guys are doing there, I'm sure the waitting list probably reflects it.

XXL 04-11-2007 10:49 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by porterbuilt (Post 2120036)
Maybe another project in the future?

C'mon out... I can put a cot in the basement for you ;) Do you take S&H Green Stamps?

Blaz-air 04-11-2007 04:23 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
I like the two tone as well. This one was cool one to do, I really liked the ideas that went into it. Now on to the next one.... (sound of whip cracking)... back to work to work render boy!

Carter

russellmarling 04-11-2007 10:38 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Ok, I have a really stupid question. I'm sorry but please just humor me. When the wheels are so big and so tucked, is there a problem with the turning radius? It just doesn't look like it the wheels would turn very far. Is something done to fix this or is it just not as tight as it looks?

PBFAB.COM 04-11-2007 11:26 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by russellmarling (Post 2121514)
Ok, I have a really stupid question. I'm sorry but please just humor me. When the wheels are so big and so tucked, is there a problem with the turning radius? It just doesn't look like it the wheels would turn very far. Is something done to fix this or is it just not as tight as it looks?

It's running a Dropmember... so many of the common issues associated with this drastic of a drop and this big of a tire have been addressed. At full dump, you do not have a turning radius (the tires barely clear the hood)! At ride height (frame-rail 5" off the ground) there is plenty of turning radius and at full lift there is all sorts of room.
I think the front wheels are little too big... I think a 20" wheel with a 27" diameter tire looks best in the front of these trucks.

XXL 04-11-2007 11:29 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by porterbuilt (Post 2121611)
I think a 20" wheel with a 27" diameter tire looks best in the front of these trucks.

I vote 18's (I really like the 19" wheel, but there are so few choices). And, yes, 27" tire.

Oh, and I've got that cot set up and ready to go :metal:

PBFAB.COM 04-11-2007 11:33 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by XXL (Post 2121613)

Oh, and I've got that cot set up and ready to go :metal:

What is a S&H Green stamp? Oh XXL... how about a sleep number bed in the master bedroom?

SCOTI 04-11-2007 11:50 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by porterbuilt (Post 2121620)
What is a S&H Green stamp?

This shows the age of both of you :lol:

Rokcrln 04-12-2007 08:11 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Looks great as always! I like XXL's idea of a hood cowl merger. I have been thinking about this and then sink the windshield frame down about 1.5" (1.5" chop) and hide the wipers down their as well so you would increase the cowl to glass gap, smooth everything out on top and still have wippers. This was done in Tex Smith's book on chop Tops and thought it was cool:cool:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

PBFAB.COM 04-12-2007 08:36 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
5 Attachment(s)
Some more pics of the fender/hood welded up.

PBFAB.COM 04-12-2007 08:37 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
3 Attachment(s)
Few more...

XXL 04-12-2007 09:45 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 2121651)
This shows the age of both of you :lol:

Waddaya mean? You can still get worthless crap after saving for years upon years... clickie

Rokcrln 04-13-2007 07:15 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Love the plexy fire wall;)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

arkracing 04-13-2007 07:34 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Awesome Work!! - can't say that I dig the hood treatment, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

Do you have any pictures of the welded sheetmetal seams before ginding them? - I see some Cleco's and looks like a backer piece of metal in some of the pictures - did this backer get welded in with the overlap like that?

XXL 04-13-2007 09:38 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokcrln (Post 2123499)
Love the plexy fire wall;)

Better road feel while driving.

:metal:

PBFAB.COM 04-13-2007 10:14 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by arkracing (Post 2123505)
Awesome Work!! - can't say that I dig the hood treatment, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

Do you have any pictures of the welded sheetmetal seams before ginding them? - I see some Cleco's and looks like a backer piece of metal in some of the pictures - did this backer get welded in with the overlap like that?

I grind the seams as I go (one spot weld at a time) ... this way it minimizes heat while grinding.

That backer piece is just for fitting... I butt-weld all my sheetmetal joints. I just used it to get the front piece fit up.

sweet572 04-14-2007 08:09 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
All i can say is WOW :metal:

72CSTC5 04-14-2007 08:43 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Interesting on the grinding, I have never heard of anyone doing that before.

Rokcrln 04-14-2007 08:49 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5 (Post 2126514)
Interesting on the grinding, I have never heard of anyone doing that before.

Well then I guess you never read the LemonDrop thread:lol: That is the only way to go! I like using a 3" x .040 cut off wheel on a right angle die grinder, small, light and it won't get away from you! Makes for some slow going on big seems but the end result requires alot less finish work.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

arkracing 04-14-2007 08:58 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by porterbuilt (Post 2123666)
I grind the seams as I go (one spot weld at a time) ... this way it minimizes heat while grinding.

That backer piece is just for fitting... I butt-weld all my sheetmetal joints. I just used it to get the front piece fit up.

Thanks,

You're obviously TIG welding everything as you would never be able to get a MIG weld to metal finish like that. -
How did you close those gaps where the backers were used for fitment? - I though you couldn't fill a gap that big in sheet metal with a TIG?

Looks like you had to split the front of the hood section to get the body lines to work (which left you with those gaps) I guess my question is were you able to close them or did you add a "filler strip"???

PBFAB.COM 04-15-2007 12:19 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by arkracing (Post 2126546)
Thanks,

You're obviously TIG welding everything as you would never be able to get a MIG weld to metal finish like that. -
How did you close those gaps where the backers were used for fitment? - I though you couldn't fill a gap that big in sheet metal with a TIG?

Looks like you had to split the front of the hood section to get the body lines to work (which left you with those gaps) I guess my question is were you able to close them or did you add a "filler strip"???

The front piece will have filler pieces that go in on each side.

When TIG welding a panel I try and get the edges to butt up perfectly (no gap). The way I achieve this is by lining it up best I can, tack it in a few spots, then take my trusty cut-off wheel (1/32") and run it along the entire seam making the gap perfectly even (I don't cut the spot welds yet). Now I have a perfect gap that is even and true. I then cut the tacks and butt the panel up tight. Out comes the welder and away I go. After each tack or small stitch I will grind, hammer, and dolly the area making sure the entire panel maintains alignment. It may seem like it would take more time to use this method, but time spent now almost always means time saved later!

If I am using the MIG process I follow the same steps, only I don't butt the edges up completely... I have found it best to leave a small gap to aid in penetration.

N2TRUX 04-16-2007 08:05 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Subscribing...:)

72CSTC5 04-16-2007 09:17 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
I grind as well with a 3M weld grinding wheel, 3" same but I have never ground down each individual spot weld as I go along. I will have to try that method and see how it comes out. Wish I had a tig welder though. May need to buy one this year some time as money permits.

67sub 04-16-2007 10:50 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Looking forward to watching this one come to completion.

PBFAB.COM 04-16-2007 07:50 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5 (Post 2128965)
I grind as well with a 3M weld grinding wheel, 3" same but I have never ground down each individual spot weld as I go along. I will have to try that method and see how it comes out. Wish I had a tig welder though. May need to buy one this year some time as money permits.

It may be a little annoying at first, but once you see the end result, you won't go back to the other way!

PBFAB.COM 04-16-2007 07:52 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
2 Attachment(s)
Starting to look like a truck again! At least for a little while...

Hart_Rod 04-16-2007 09:19 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by porterbuilt (Post 2126898)
After each tack or small stitch I will grind, hammer, and dolly the area making sure the entire panel maintains alignment. It may seem like it would take more time to use this method, but time spent now almost always means time saved later!

If I am using the MIG process I follow the same steps, only I don't butt the edges up completely... I have found it best to leave a small gap to aid in penetration.

What do you do on panels that you can't get behind to hammer and dolly? Am I asking you to give away trade secrets?:o :lol:

WinDancer 04-16-2007 11:30 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Good Stuff!

PBFAB.COM 04-17-2007 12:58 AM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod (Post 2129931)
What do you do on panels that you can't get behind to hammer and dolly? Am I asking you to give away trade secrets?:o :lol:

I have no "trade secrets"! There is no panel you CAN'T get behind to hammer and dolly (if you remove the panel or the pieces behind it). That's a lot of extra work, and not everybody wants to pay for that level of work. I have had good success with the MIG for those areas where the budget won't allow for the added time of panel removal and re-installation to properly hammer and dolly the TIG weld. (Fortunately, I am becoming able to pick and choose the work that comes in, and am beginning to focus more on the chassis and suspension for my 'meat and potatoes' and then selecting the sheetmetal jobs where customers are wanting the highest quality work and are willing to pay for the extra time). With the MIG, the same process of tacking and then grinding the tack down one spot weld at a time, and remaining patient throughout the process, has always yielded good results.

glock35ipsc 04-17-2007 07:55 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Nathan - How do you get on the backside of the roof where you contoured the back edge to do hammer & dolly work?

PBFAB.COM 04-17-2007 08:22 PM

Re: West Coast 67
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc (Post 2131623)
Nathan - How do you get on the backside of the roof where you contoured the back edge to do hammer & dolly work?


I have really skinny arms!:lol: That is one area where "budget" necessitated the MIG process. It would be "ideal" to remove the inner roof panel... but most people wouldn't want to pay for that!


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