Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

maybe its the fuzzy picture but the weld on such an important piece doesnt look that strong. I would double check the grade on that 3/4 all thread... i would want to know what grade for sure... im with everyone else.. ive never seen a grade 8 all thread. plus when you weld bolts, they arnt as strong as they use to be.
clint

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Yeah shaved doors would never work for me. I work the graveyard shift and in winter the temp can go into the single digits.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

yall were right. i lowered the truck off the jack stands and the driveshaft doesnt clear. darn. :/

if the rod ends break and my whole truck falls apart i guess you guys can say i told you so. haha if i were to get rid of the all thread, what would you suggest i used to replace it to make my bars adjustable?

i was thinking the 88-98 handles are just more smooth with the body and give it the smooth look of being shaved but with the reliability of an actual handle. you suggest just keeping the stock handles?

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

the 88 on handles look pretty cool.
back in the late 80's - 90's when that was popular I would have every bodyman I knew cutting out and saving the handle mounts out of the doors and skins they replaced on the stock trucks for me. To add those handles was really double work from shaving handles... cause you had to shave the original handle, and cut and weld in the new handle skin/mount.
those 88 and up doors )ck) were easy to "pop" (thieves could jimmy under the handle with a thin screwdriver and work the lock rod..)
they made a theft preventer back then that was bolt on.. i used to double the area behind with tacking in an extra strip of sheet metal (typically trimed
off of the same door skin that the handle hole came out of ) to strengthen and help prevent a popper from access.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

that's why you hide a manual release some where accessible from the outside

You could use the ends you have and weld them to pipe and get something like this
http://www.*****************/4-link-p...d-zerk-fitting
or find you some higher grade studs to weld on or bolts and cut the heads off
There is a build on another forum (I believe) who smoothed the ridges off the stock handles, it looked very custom

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

On the shaved doors and poppers, I know a lot about them and how they work but I I don't know about the emergency manual unlock. How does that work? Where do you hide it?

I don't think my welder can handle more than grade 5. And where do you find 3/4" bolts?

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

I got the 1" ones, yeah they are a little more but that is your suspension your playing with and i want to be safe than sorry.

If you need something welded just haller.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

You can hide a release cable under the cab.

If your welder can't handle it you probably shouldn't be welding on suspension parts with it.

Fastenal, Fastener World, J&E Supply

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

[QUOTE=maxxxy;4115624]On the shaved doors and poppers, I know a lot about them and how they work but I I don't know about the emergency manual unlock. How does that work? Where do you hide it?

**
Maxxy, the typical emergency release is a sheilded cable that hooks to the
release inside the door, and is routed thru the door jamb into the wheel well or some other inconspicous place for a manual release. A lot of the kits I see for solenoids actually come with one, or you are able to purchase one. But they are easy to rig.
Ive see folks use a universal choke style cable, and old section of speedometer cable, awnmower throttle cables, old bicycle brake or shift cables or even a piece of bailing wire! I knew of one truck that only had this type of release.
I left the lock cylinder on my 81 and use a key-pop.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Man you're killing me here! Hop on over here to Noble Hardware!

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

:lol:
Sorry, I didn't realize you had bolts that big....

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

I've heard that somewhere before! :haha:

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Hello. I havent been on in a while but I have made a little progress. I about finished my bridge crossmember thingy. I'll get some pictures up soon.

Does anyone know what all is involved in swapping to an 89-91 burb grille? Is it worth it? What all do I need to get off of the burb to make it work?
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Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

if your fenders and hood are good, then all you need is the core support and related lights, grill, and wiring.....and check out the classified section, we have everything you need locally ;)

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

I redesigned my crossmember thingy to make it clear the driveshaft. and i made it kinda cool (yet still structurally sound) if i do say so myself. http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...eberry/012.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...eberry/035.jpg

I decided that i would take the stock front leaf brackets and modify them to use them for my link seup. i thought it was pretty clever. ;) it also saves money and they are pretty dang strong too and not too dificult to modify.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...eberry/033.jpg

http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...erry/045-1.jpg

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Coming along man.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

What did you paint that hanger with? (paint wise)

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Just some rattle can white. I'm not sure what brand, but if you want, I'll check my trash can later see if it's still in there for the brand. Lol.
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Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Ha never mind then. It looked kinda like battleship gray I wasnt sure if it was something fancy or not.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Ok, devils advocate here.

Let me start by saying I have no disrespect for your efforts. That being said, the 'pre' welding prep looks almost non-existent in your pics. That pic w/the modified spring hanger tacked in place looks like it was tacked w/o any cleaning what-so-ever of the base material. Cleaning your 2 pieces down to fresh metal is Welding 101.

The use of all thread for a rod end sounds dangerous. Saying "I told you so" will mean nothing to the man whose family you just killed when your driving down the road & your modified-parts break (potentially causing loss of control thus possibly causing a fatal accident). You should be striving for 100% OVERKILL/over-build on everything; "it will do" does not apply when building/fabbing suspension parts in your driveway.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

What welder are you using? It doesn't look like it's getting hot enough to penetrate that metal and is just gobbing weld on top.

Super-sick buy, though!! I'm very jealous!

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

SCOTI,
I totally agree.
BTW, when are you gonna change that avatar?


What's up Sean?
Have gotten another truck?
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Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

x 2 research and homework is always a must imo

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Thanks guys.

I always want to encourage guys w/their fabrication but it must come w/full responsibility for everyone else on the road. I would not/could not live w/myself if I caused harm to someone elses loved one because of a poor quality job.

I'm still learning as well. I'll take the advice & constructive criticism from my peers & use it as a tool to improve. I didn't want to come off sounding like I'm a pro criticizing anothers efforts.

:metal:

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Are you welding with a Mig or Stick welder? Awesome find:metal: Are there bags all th way around?

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Ok I have been thinking about what yall have said and I will either be going with a stronger thread or going non adjustable. You all are totally right, I would rather do overkill than end up getting someone killed. On that leaf hanger I was tired for the night and globbed a tack weld on just to see how it would look. I took it off and re did it. I am using a stick welder and I'm basically just tack welding everything in place til I get it put together to roll it onto a trailer so I can take it to a place in the city where I have access to a better welder. And I have been studying pretty much every aspect of this kind of build for about a year now.

I truly respect you all and your advice and criticism. I know I need you guys to help me along the way. Thank y'all.

And I decided that I needed more space so I can get my bars parallel (when I get to building them) so I redesigned my bridge/crossmember thingy again hopefully for the last time. http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/f66f4074.jpg

And I was at the norman swap meet on Friday and picked me up a pair of fenders for inside my bed!
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/1fb00f7e.jpg

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Why not just get some adjustable rod ends? That would let you tweak things if necessary. They shouldn't be that much more cost wise vs. a standard bushing end.

Thanks for keeping an open mind. Keep the build pics coming.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

This is what im running..
Bushing

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

I shouldve got those when I bought my rod ends.... :/ I guess it's not to late but I already bought all non adjustable rod ends and was planning to weld a bolt to it or something. I'd just rather not eat the cost of what I've already bought...
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Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

i like the new notch and i like the fact that you are building this on your own, BUT, i really suggest you practice your welding skills. metal fabrication is not a place i would want to cut corners in. its kind of like putting a million dollar paint job over 3 gallons of bondo and rust. even though it isnt really visible, its still there, and it is a major concern to me. I would hate to see your rear end links break loose while driving in front of me!

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Well "practicing my welding skills" is kind of vague and dosent really help me to get better. Could you possibly tell me like what picture you are looking at and what I can do to fix my welding? I.e. Techniques, turn up heat, etc.

Without specifics You are helping me none.

Thanks
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Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

What kind of welder are you using first off.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

One thing you can do is practice on a piece of scrap metal the same thickness of what you are planning to weld.
Turn you welder all the way up and see if it will burn through, or at least get the back side of the metal bright red. If it won't you welder probably isn't big enough.

If it burns through, back the heat down a little at a time until your getting max penetration and it's not burning through.....

If your using a wire feed, the wire will make a difference.
Look inside the cover for a chart with wire size, heat, and wire speed settings...
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Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

I'm using a stick welder with 6011
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Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

:lol: there are a ton of different kind of stick welders out there... cracker jack, Lincoln, miller etc...

If your welder wont get hot enough to do what you need to do then you are wasting your time with it.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Ok I decided that to be safe, I would borrow a bigger welder from my dads shop. It is a Lincoln AC-225 Arc Welder. This should be suitable for the job right?
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Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

and get rid of that 60xx rod its not a structural its to brittle for something that vibrates
if your using stick run 7018 and it a good idea to keep it dry and warm

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

that lincoln will be plenty. a 7018 rod is great, however if used with the right amperage the 6011 will do a good job too. you want the welder to be set as high as it can go without burning through the metal for max. penetration. what kind of pattern are you running with your welds? P.S. I wasnt trying to flame your welding skills or anything, i just want it to be as safe as possible for you.

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

So far I have been using a "C" pattern on my welds.

I would sure rather use 6011, because I already have a lot of it, but if it's going to be compromising the structural integrity of my frame, then I'd like to go with something different. I just want to be safe. But do you think 6011 is going to be enough?

Re: maxxy's 81 bagged c10 build
 

Like gray said above, 6011 will work
And also as stated above you need to keep moisture out of your rods.
They make rod ovens to get the moisture out, I don't see why you couldn't use a regular kitchen oven on a low setting to heat them up before you use them.
Your welds, from the pics, look cold (not penetrating well).
What do you have your welder set at?
I think you need to turn it up.

Here is some info I found with a quick google search
http://www.thefabricator.com/article...-6011-and-7018
It says the 7018 is easier to run and needs to be kept moisture free.
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