Re: Shucks First Build
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US107LT CHROME FINISH for the lock cylinder. I think is is about $9 on RockAuto.com.
Fairly easy swap. Since you don't have the key, I think you may need to remove the steering wheel, lock plate, and turnsignal switch assembly just to get to it. It is not hard work at all. I'll see if I can find a written guide for you... |
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Here is the repair guide that I found:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f80cb0c97 If your not a member at AutoZone, its free and offers a lot of good reference material... REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1973-78 Vehicles See Figure 1 http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...pscaa642e1.jpg Fig. Fig. 1: Ignition lock cylinder removal - 1973-78 vehicles 1.Remove steering wheel and turn signal switch. It is not necessary to completely remove the turn signal switch. Pull the switch over the end of the shaft; no further. 2.Place lock cylinder in RUN position. Do not remove the ignition key buzzer. 3.Insert a small drift pin into the turn signal housing slot. Keeping the drift pin to the right side of the slot, break the housing flash loose and depress the spring latch at the lower end of the lock cylinder. Remove the lock cylinder. WARNING Considerable force may be necessary to break this casting flash, but be careful not to damage any other parts. When ordering a new lock cylinder, specify a cylinder assembly. This will save assembling the cylinder, washer, sleeve and adapter. To install: 4.Hold the lock cylinder sleeve and rotate the knob clockwise against the stop. 5.Insert the cylinder into the housing, aligning the key and keyway. 6.Hold a 0.070 in. drill between the lock bezel and housing. Rotate the cylinder counterclockwise, maintaining a light pressure until the drive section of the cylinder mates with the sector. 7.Push in until the snapring pops into the grooves. Remove drill. Check cylinder operation. The drill prevents forcing the lock cylinder inward beyond its normal position. The buzzer switch and spring latch can hold the lock cylinder in too far. Complete disassembly of the upper bearing housing is necessary to release an improperly installed lock cylinder. 1979 Vehicles See Figure 2 http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps658f3e89.jpg Fig. Fig. 2: Ignition lock cylinder removal and installation - 1979 vehicles 1.Remove the steering wheel, as outlined earlier in this section. 2.Remove the turn signal switch. It is not necessary to completely remove the switch from the column. Pull the switch rearward far enough to slip it over the end of the shaft, but do not pull the harness out of the column. 3.Turn the lock to RUN . 4.Remove the lock retaining screw and remove the lock cylinder. WARNING If the retaining screw is dropped on removal, it may fall into the column, requiring complete disassembly of the column to retrieve the screw. 5.To install, rotate the key to the stop while holding onto the cylinder. 6.Push the lock all the way in. 7.Install the screw. Tighten the screw to 3 ft. lbs. (4.1 Nm) for regular columns, or to 2 ft. lbs. (2.7 Nm) for tilt columns. 8.Install the turn signal switch and the steering wheel. |
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Thanks for the write up, I got one from advanced, will be putting it in soon.
Got the motor all put together. Truck comes into the shop monday, will get a front end rebuild and cleaned/painted frame, I should have some updates later on in the month, Just trying to keep my thread alive. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/835/9xw3.jpg |
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Great progress so far!
I think once you get a chance to drive it, you are going to end up re-thinking the use of the single plane manifold(but I understand free is good). Single planes aren't as good as a dual plane in the lower RPM ranges for producing torque and HP. Being a street truck with what seems a mildly built engine, it may feel like a dog until you really open it up to higher RPMs. At any rate, congrats that the engine is together. Hoping you will be driving soon. |
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I understand and thank you for the input. But free has gotten the best of me and will use it until I need or want a new one.
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Finally got a guy from work to bring the rollback to my house and get the truck from its grave and bring it into the shop. Snagged a set of free rallies and tires and it already looks 2x better, just gets me more and more motivated to finish it. Last weekend I bought a stepside bed for the truck for 300 bucks. Came with new wood and a tailgate, which I didnt have in the first place. I thought it was a good deal.
So today I got the truck in, put the new wheels and tires on, got the front clip off, and the body mounts off, the cab should come off tomorrow. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...90/24/qw6o.jpg I also had to run long tubes because the shorties hit the motor mounts, it was a straight across trade to a guy for the long tubes so I said, "Sure!" Even though they aren't the prettiest things in the world. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/401/8c6k.jpg Now since its in the shop, updates will come more frequently! |
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Looking really good. Keep at it and you'll have a killer truck.
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my son goes to LHS and I saw this sitting there this week. very cool. good luck with the build!
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Cool! Thanks man, since I have to stay busy in the class for the grade, a lot will get done hopefully. I need to figure out what to do with the frame once the cab is off. Either wire wheel it at school then paint it there or to take it home and sandblast. Also what paint to use that's cheap yet durable.
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My 79 is looking rather, bare.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/543/9cux.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/560/b6ol.jpg What do you guys recommend for a front end rebuild kit and for body mounts? |
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Just read your thread, You got a good start.
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Looking good, wish i could of done this in my hs auto class.
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Well my teacher is pretty laid back and has built many cars himself, so he's basically all over this project with me. He's always anxious for the next part to the truck I bring in.
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Heres 3 bags of sand blasting, Ran out and need a couple more to finish the inside.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/200/8i6f.jpg Control arms will be blasted when I take them off for bushings. Ill run to town soon and grab a couple more bags to finish the inside frame. The axle will get cleaned and blasted when I do my flip kit. |
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Is that bale of hay getting some sand for flavor? Looking good you are getting right to it.
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Hah, I debated getting the tractor out and moving it, figured the horses eat things that are worse. I just wanted to get started!
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Wire wheeled the fire wall and got rid of some rust and left over rubber gasket stuff from the heater, also got rid of some bubbly stuff that was caked all over the firewall, not too sure what it was.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/716/x6e7.jpg Also, where the battery tray was on the core support had rotted out the bottom of it, is there a replacement patch for that, or is it something where I just find another or just make a little patch plate and weld it in? http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...90/89/ugqd.jpg |
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I would use the core support problem as a good spot to get experience fabricating and welding in a patch. It is not real visible and is a fairly easy patch to make. You will have better skills and more experience when it is time to deal with more difficult areas.
Bob |
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Well I tried anyway, first time ever making a patch panel. Criticism welcome, sometimes I need it to learn.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/607/47jx.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/850/gn9x.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/703/3yav.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...90/35/05z6.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/22/8sd2h.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...90/32/0aph.jpg to the left on this picture, the white which looks like is a gap, its just the paint reflection. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...90/21/v9vl.jpg Now some professional patch panels came in today too! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/845/o4uu.jpg |
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Experience comes when you begin. That is a start your skills will improve as you go. You now have metal where a hole used to be. To bend a piece of sheet metal without a brake try clamping a piece of angle iron on both sides of it in a vise and then hammer it over in small increments or even with a block of wood and you will get a cleaner bend.
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It's going to be interesting to see what my first patches will look like. Keep up the good work!
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Nice work! :metal:
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Finished up the core support.
Moved onto the body work. The cab mounts are insane to get out. Using an air chisel to do it. Anybody have any tricks? http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...6/download.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/.../download2.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/.../download3.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/.../download4.jpg Quick question to the bagged guys. The one thing I want to do to the truck but cant afford is putting the truck on bags. Now a lot of the cost in it is the 4 link set up, How much could I save if I built my own 4 link in my welding class next year for a class project? My welding teacher knows how to make just about anything work and I know he could help me out and get it done right. I just dont have 4 grand to spend... |
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Well it's been awhile since an update just because I hate my upload method, it takes too long but I finally found a better way.. Here's what I've gotten done since its been nice out.
Epoxy Primed http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...0A6B949C06.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...DFFC675120.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...8B13C54EA7.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...30A65F4F4A.jpg I only have a picture of it tacked in, its a solid weld now. http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...EEB24381AB.jpg Cleaned and you can see my new cab support mounts are in http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...788CCD6AD2.jpg New tumbler installed, got the keys to it now! http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...95E61214D0.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...37168D32B6.jpg Painted http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...9A0E0EFADF.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...C43D9FC78A.jpg As of today in the shop. http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...C8B66D3EF5.jpg Just got a shipment in of new rotors, calipers, 5/6 lowering kit in. So tomorrow bushings go into the control arms and I'll reassemble the front end and paint the back end when I take it apart to flip it. |
Re: Shucks First Build
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...F7CCC30113.jpg
5 inch drop http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...F487CF461F.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...0E8AA98F71.jpg Started this afternoon on the rear end before the rain showed http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...8E44DA569D.jpg |
Re: Shucks First Build
Looks sweet!
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Here it is actually installed.
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...2375CFADDE.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...9F7D05131A.jpg |
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Well half of it's rolling now!
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...4E0B0BCD1D.jpg Are the shocks upside down? Teacher wasn't there today and the wording embedded on the shock was right side up that way, but it looks goofy. I honestly don't know! http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...60DEDBC548.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...19580868CC.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...863D78055D.jpg |
Re: Shucks First Build
Loooks good. Shock are on correctly.
You are doing a great job. Will you have it finished/running & driving by the end of the school year? |
Re: Shucks First Build
Thank you. And I hope to have the motor and transmission placed in the truck with the cab on too. Driving, maybe not because I still need a fuel supply and cooling system. I only have 30 or so days left of school
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Slowly but surely... Frames on the ground with new brake lines front to back, flipped rear end, 700r4, Hedman headers, full dual exhaust minus the mufflers, havent bought them yet.
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...F698631894.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...F5A9892363.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...A38EED7988.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...DB76B70F38.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...131455A35F.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...4FAB6655E0.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...EE4F4B19F9.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...A3123E67DB.jpg |
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Nice job on the brake lines.
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Here it is starting to look like a truck again.
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...8C36A11AAE.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...A5FFF06277.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...EBEC38614C.jpg the wires scare me... http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...C7DC58AE1D.jpg |
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Looking good. Whats going on with the yellow square on the lift?
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Thanks.
The yellow pickup is my teachers nephews getting a crate new motor put into it along with a turbo 350. I'm too involved in my project to go help out over there. |
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Here's where she'll sit for awhile. Gotta pay off some people for parts then once that's over I'll be back in it!
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...043DB0ABF5.jpg |
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Remember this thing? Well school started back up and I sadly got hardly anything done this summer due to a 55 hour week and squeezing freinds in after work. But here it was going back to school
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...27F2690D44.jpg Wood floor with 1 coat of stain I put on today http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...A69A413DA0.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...6EC9892B73.jpg http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...A15B0BBF02.jpg Now being back in school, the only way to get a good grade in class is to work, meaning work gets done everyday. Slowly but surely but I figured I'd chime back in. |
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