Re: 57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'
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The metal work on the tailgate is pretty much complete. I filled the openings for the tailgate retractors and the locating channel used to line up the liftgate and tailgate. Did some hammer and dolly work to get the panel smooth enough to identify and shrink the crowned areas. A few more tweaks and it will be ready for self etch primer and filler.
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Re: 57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'
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The liftgate presents much more of a challenge. The bottom half of the frame pretty much has one foot in the grave and the other on a banana peel. The flat section that meets the top of the tailgate was so rotted out, I went ahead and cut it out to expose the underside of the inner stamping. Overall, the frame is fairly rigid, but a lot of welding on it would probably warp it beyond repair. So I plan to use a combination of short welds, 3M panel adhesive and fiberglass mat to make it usable again.
When I lived in Houston, there was a place that could dip parts in an acidic rust remover followed by a neutralizer, rinse and surface rust preventative. But I haven't found anything comparable near where I now live. I'm considering boxing the piece up and shipping it to a shop that provides that service. When you're dealing with a fragile part it's best to use a process that is minimally destructive. |
Re: 57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'
I would be so lost if I was faced with that repair, even if I was coached through it I’d probably warp it beyond repair. <popping popcorn and pouring a beer for the show> 😁
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Re: 57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'
It's amazing what you're tackling. I would be scared to death.I'm sti) watching.
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Wow! You gotta love 50's cars and all the nooks and crannies that hold dirt and moisture. They always get a big case of tin-worms, even in a dry climate. Keep up the good work Vic. I know you've got this.
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Re: 57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'
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I heard back from the folks that do the chemical dipping and the cost is not too great, so I'm going to box up the liftgate this week and send it to them. I'll build the box out of plywood and hope it's enough to keep the contents safe going and coming. I needed a little something to keep me busy so I drew a design for the plate/bezel that will go on the tailgate. It will house the push button for the electric latch release. It would be too time consuming to do the outer profile, so I'll contact my buds in Houston to CNC it for me. I did the ball end mill grooves and put the holes where they need to be, so the rest is up to them. When I get it back, I'll take it and the tailgate to Sedalia and use Keith's roller to form the curve to match the sheetmetal. |
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I built a (hopefully) sturdy box to ship the liftgate to be chemically dipped. It's out of my hands now, which I gotta tell you gives me a queasy feeling considering the part is all but irreplaceable. But as a good buddy used to say, "Columbus took a chance." So it's on its way to Toledo, OH.
While it's gone, I'm preparing for the suicide door conversion. I sent a photo to the hinge supplier and they said the placement looks good. Recommended that I tack it in place and do a dummy door test to verify it clears. The photo below has an arrow pointing to the spot on the quarter panel that is furthest outboard. This is the recommended location but is way too low for the hinge. So I'm going to start with the area outlined by the white rectangle instead. They recommend installing the hinge pin vertically which may put the bottom too far away from the outside edge (black arrows). So they have an alternate method that involves tilting the hinge pin (yellow line) in both the vertical and horizontal planes. If you measure carefully with a digital angle finder, it should result in the door swinging level even though the pin is angled. To get an idea of what I'm facing, I cut a window in the inner panel to see the area behind the striker plate. It will be removed and transferred to the B pillar on the opposite side later. Naturally, that entire area is double walled. I think a combination of the Sawsall and cutoff wheels will create the opening I need. It's going to be a lot bigger than I planned, which means lots more patching once the hinge location is finalized. I may be able to finesse it a bit more on the other side. We'll see. I was surprised that the inner wheel well stopped an inch or so short of the jamb, but I guess the designers figured the front of the tire would be slinging water forward and down anyway, so why bother. ;) |
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I measured down 28" from the rain gutter and made a mark on the door jamb. Then leveled my straight line laser and marked the bottom cut line. From there i measured up 5.25" which will give me a loose fit for the hinge assembly. Then I marked the rest of the jamb to also remove the striker mounting plate. I'll try to stay inside the yellow tape for my cuts... tomorrow.
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Re: 57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'
You sir are are much braver.. strike that... much more talented than I. I await with anticipation to see the results!
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So today, after sitting down and reading the instructions a couple more times, taking some measurements of the hinge and doing a considerable amount of pondering, I decided to follow the theory that "less is more" and reduce the size of the piece to be cut out. Figured it would be easier to remove more metal than weld it back in. Between the cutoff wheel and the mini air saw, I was finally able to remove the section I'd taped off. I knew from the get go that the wheel well would probably be in the way... and it was. To reach the area that needed to be cut out, I had to take off the tire and wheel as well as the BelAir quarter panel trim. Nasty work trimming the wheel well. It has a heavy layer of undercoating material that really stinks when you burn thru it with the cutoff wheel. After some additional trimming, I was finally able to fit the hinge in from the back side and mock it up more or less where it needs to be. It looks like it will swing level and stay clear of the quarter. At this point, I need to tack it in place and make a dummy door panel to verify the clearance. We're definitely swimming in the deep end of the pool now! |
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Rest of the photos...
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Scary stuff..... to me anyway.
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Today I ticky-tack welded the hinge box into place so I could perform the recommended "fake door test". As I feared, installing the hinge dead level isn't the hot tip. The door edge would clear the quarter panel, but not the lower trim piece. It did have plenty of clearance past the upper stainless trim, though. I'll have to follow the advanced leveling procedure and tilt the hinge pin backward at the top and inward the same amount. Since everything is barely tacked in place, it will be easy to break it all loose and start over. Tomorrow... |
Re: 57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'
Getting to fit will be your reward!!! I have yella streak, soo normal open works for this coward. LOL
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This is seriously stretching my geometry and imagination. Gonna have to go lay down for awhile! Maybe a cold malt beverage.
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Well, you've gone well past my comfort level... Looks like you're getting a good handle on it though. I'm curious how it will work out with that hinge... My brain hurts trying to follow the explanation of changing angles and how that would work. Thanks for the video, it helped a lot.
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Since the fake door test went okay, I marked the cut lines on the hinge box and sliced all the excess off. Mocked it up to see if it all looked okay and then realized I'd forgotten to close up the back of the hinge box that faces the wheel well. Removed it and tacked on some sheetmetal and will primer and partially paint it before I weld out the front. I'll probably put an additional shield in using the front edge of the old wheel well as a splash guard, but I doubt I'll be driving it in the mud very much. |
Re: 57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'
Excellent work!
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is this gonna be a single hinge door?.....
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nice!!!...it does look like extreme duty...
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Hey Vic,
Is it your plan to remove the B pillar from the body and morph it to the rear door? Have you ever seen a suicide door wagon or are you the pioneer? Thanks for all the little details you cover in your thread. I learn more from yours than most other threads. :metal: |
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The B pillar stays like it is, but after I remove the rear door hinges, I'll have to plate over the recesses and transfer the striker plate from the left rear door to the rear of the B pillar on the right side. Phase one is getting the hinge in place to where it will open reasonably level and clear the quarter panel and trim. That's where I am right now. I've been tacking it in place to make it sturdy enough for phase two which will be fitting and welding the plate that mates to the hinge into the back of the door. I will then unbolt the mating plate from the hinge, swing open the door and remove the front hinges. That will be the moment of truth. With the stock hinges removed and the door bolted back onto the hinge, I'll see how it looks and operates. Phase three and four will be cutting out the door handles, swapping sides and moving them to the front of the door to mimic the mid-60's Lincoln Continentals. I'll also transfer the stock latches and make them work with the original striker plates. If that doesn't go well, one of the guys on the tri-five forum has offered to sell me a pair of Bear Claw latches he had leftover from a 34 Ford project. But that presents other challenges as well. I'd be further along, but I had to make an unplanned trip to O'Fallon, IL yesterday to work on Crusty. The consignment shop used a jump box to get it started which somehow killed the Optima battery and fried one of the Viair compressor relays. They did all this in front of a buyer whose wife then convinced him to take a pass on the truck. Very frustrating. But I got it all fixed and good as new. My butt is still wore out from all the driving, though. |
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After an 8 hour drive, another $200.+ optima battery, an unnecessary repair, and a lost sale... I'd like to think that I could be that calm about it. |
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The passenger side hinge box is in it's final resting place... or at least I really hope so. By welding in patches and sealing the edges with RTV, I've made a big commitment. I haven't completely finished welding and grinding, but just cutting all the spot welds to reposition the hinge would be a huge task. I also added a gusset that connects the side of the hinge box to the inner wheel well. Since I have no plans for mini-tubs, attaching the gusset to the wheel well made the most sense. The box should be sturdy enough to support the door with welds / patches attaching it to both door jamb walls and the wheel well.
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The next step is to cut out the area on the door where the angle piece goes that bolts to the hinge. With the door closed up against the new hinge, I made marks where I need to cut for it.
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Re: 57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'
I have my fingers crossed for ya Vic
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After marking the door for the area to be removed, I used the air saw to make my cuts. Sure looked like a big hole to fill, but I'll need the section that the latch bolts to later on. A little trimming was necessary to fully clear the swing arm and its mating piece. It was immediately obvious that I'd need to splice in some material to get the back edge of the mounting flange up against the inner door panel. I cut some 1018 cold rolled to the size and angle needed to position the flange and tacked it in place. The mating flange was now snug up against the inner door panel and well out of the way of the window channel. As added insurance for adjustments down the road, I machined a couple of powdered bronze spacers to fit where the bolts pass thru. This takes up the slack and keeps the holes centered during mock up. I also followed the advice of the techs at Scissor Doors and used washers between the swing arm and the mating flange during the mock up procedure. After welding, removing the spacers will give me a small amount of adjustment in the XYZ directions. |
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From here it was just a matter of tacking the flange in place and then piecing in sheetmetal to fill the gaping holes. Welding and grinding has produced surfaces on the door and jamb that will only require a small amount of body filler.
It was now time to see how the door worked, so I bolted it to the hinge swing arm. Good thing I'd used the washers as shims because the door was too far forward. I removed the washers and the lower bolt hole spacer and reinstalled the bolts. Success at last! The door gaps looked pretty decent and the door opened nice and level. At the moment there's a tiny bit of droop (~1/16") at the top front edge of the door frame. I believe the latch will fix that easily, and if not, I can put a thin shim at the hinge to lift it. I'll wait until I have the latch and power window in place to make a decision on that. My main goal was to check clearances and see how the door swings. All that looks good at this point. |
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nicely done Vic.....
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Nice work!
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Thanks, guys! Gotta say I was sweating bullets right up to the big test.
The liftgate came back from the chemical dipper today. Good thing I built the box out of 1/4" oak wood. The gorillas at UPS had a good time kicking it around. However, the contents arrived safely and the part was nicely de-rusted. While I was waiting on the brown truck, I cleaned the latch parts I'll be needing to transfer to the opposite side when the time comes. I plan to first weld/patch the parts of the liftgate that will show when it's open. The hidden panels and the non load bearing areas will probably get kitty hair or metal mender. The compound curves on some of the rotted places require tools I don't possess in my little basement shop. Thus I'll take the easy way out. Used a thin cutoff wheel to remove a section on the passenger side of the liftgate, then made a pattern out of poster board and transferred it to sheetmetal. I have it all fit up and ready to tack in place. Will Tig it with silicon bronze rod so I can use very low heat. There are still a lot of places thinned out by the rust that tend to grow holes when the arc gets close to them. Hopefully, patience and copper backup will get it done. |
Re: 57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'
Don't ya just love UPS..... Not! Another ++ on the work!
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The roads are bad here today. Freezing rain/drizzle coating everything. Kathy and I were going out for lunch, but that got canceled about 10' out of the garage. So I did some work on the liftgate. Been piecing the inner and outer panels on the passenger side. Outside is pretty much done, little more welding to do on the inside. Of course, with the roads bad today and probably all day tomorrow, I'm running low on argon. I've been trying to use the MIG as much as I can, but even dialed way down, it still makes a mess. |
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I'm out of argon until Thursday, so I've been tinkering around with other stuff. Made the cover for the bottom of the liftgate where it was all rotted out. Then moved on to the latch on the passenger side.
Cut out the section on the left rear door where the door handle attaches and moved it to the front of the right rear door. Then cut and trimmed the metal from the back of the left rear door where the latch mounts. I'll need to do some serious patching, but this is the side you'll see when you open the door, so I want it to look nice. |
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