Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
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Slappin' it all back together....
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Next came sanding panels and spraying epoxy.
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more...
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Since I'll have a 6 speed automatic trans with a final drive of 0.67, and a 29.75" tire I figure I can go with a steeper gear. I swapped out the 3.07 one wheel peel for a 4.11 gear in an Eaton Truetrac rear diff. The calculator tells me my rpm in 6th gear will be 2275 with a speed of 75 MPH. I believe it'll be a serious tire shredder. The stock L83 puts out 385/hp and 385 ft.lbs. :chevy:
This was a fairly intimidating part of the build. I have no experience with rebuilding a rear differential. I took the same approach as I always do, read all about it, ask a ton of questions, and go for it. I still don't know if I did it right yet, but when the time comes, I'll take it nice and slow to hopefully catch any mistakes I made before it grenades. This job required me to expand my tool chest which is always a bonus.:lol: I have wanted a press for a long time anyways, and who can't use a dial indicator every once and a while? Now all I need to do is remember to fill the dang thing with oil. Unfortunately I have a history of forgetting the oil... yeah... that one cost me a perfectly good T-56. |
Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Great work on your box.
As far as rear end oil, a simple thing that really helped me was sitting down every couple weeks and making a list of important things to do. Cross off and update as needed. Without a list it's to easy to miss something as there is so much to do over a long period. |
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Okay, you are very modest about your bodywork skills. It takes a lot of patience and skill to shorten bedsides and it looks like yours came out great.
Like sprint said, lists are important. I've maintained a list/schedule throughout my build and at times it's had tasks as broad as "assemble bed" or as specific as "fill differential". I use it to lay out my plan of attack every weekend which helps me to know when I need to order parts and be as efficient with my time as I can. This amount of planning (combined with working on it almost every Saturday) has helped me to get my truck done in just over a year. I've also had the help of my dad throughout and the experience of a prior project which are both huge factors. Is your YZ a 250 or 450? I have a 450, but it's old by today's standards (2009). I haven't ridden it in months though. Been having too much fun working on trucks. |
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I almost went into a whole Texans speech about being grounded. But I will refrain. LoL.
Excellent work neighbor. Did you say "hold my beer" before you went for it on the rear end? If not you might need to redo it :D And speaking of neighbor, I'm moving south man, found a few acres below ft worth. Finally get to build a shop and get out of this cookie cutter business with a tiny 2 car garage. I might need to borrow that press sometime soon, very nice. I could have used one of those a few times already. I'll bring the beer. |
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The Yamaha is a YZ250XF... 2015 I think. I got that one over my life long love with Suzukis because it had electric start and the RMZ250 didn't have that feature yet. The yz also has a 6 speed, which in hindsight I'd rather have the 5 speed. I don't even have the ability to hit 5th gear on my track, so 6th is a waste. If someday I find myself running from the cops :lol: I'll have no trouble. The thing will do 99 MPH according to my GPS app. My buddy and I bought YZ's the same day, he got the 450 and I stayed with a 250. Every now and then, I'll hop on his for a lap or two. Even though I'll be grinnin' the whole time, I know its not the bike for me. I live in pain from previous wrecks all of which happened on the one 450 I ever owned, a 2005 CRF450X. I rode that for one year (injured half of the time) and went back to a Suzuki Rmz250. The crashing stopped... I blame my tendency to have whiskey throttle. My 250 is manageable for my skill level, and I've learned the hard way what my limits are. |
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Part of the rear end built that had me leery about my work was the getting the pinion depth right while being sure to not 'over crush' the crush sleeve. I feel like I got it right based on the grease pattern. It's also important to have the proper amount of force needed to turn the pinion. Here again, time will tell.
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When it came to buying my fuel tank, I just bought the non efi tank, since I wasn't sure what the fuel requirements would be with the direct injection motor. The factory set up uses a PWM (Pulse Width Module) that determines the demand for fuel and delivers the correct psi to the second fuel pump thats mechanically driven located at the back of the intake manifold. From that pump the pressures are incredibly high, like 2300 psi. This first in line electric fuel pump turned out to not be critical for providing exact pressures to the mechanical pump. Board member Mitch Vannatta who owns Swaptime, (check out his Youtube channel!) helped me in many regards and this was one of the areas he gave me answers. He ran his own personal Tahoe with a standard 58 psi corvette style regulator with a basic walbro pump controlled by a relay. Ignition on provides power to the pump that constantly runs.
These pictures are how I handled getting the power wires into the fuel tank. I bought a stainless bolt and drilled a hole through the middle of it to run the wires through. I simply drilled a hole it the cover plate, ran the bolt through, used fuel safe teflon washers and tightened it up with a stainless nut. I plan to use a fuel safe epoxy to seal the wiring into the bolt center. I have to also give thanks to Vic1947 for assisting me with answering questions about how he did the fuel system in his previous build, "Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67" which totally raised the bar on build quality as far as I'm concerned. You may have noticed if you followed his build, I hung my fuel pump from the cover plate the same way he did. |
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The L83 motor that I got from a rolled 2014 Z71 did not come with a power steering pump, in fact none of them do. The newer trucks only use electric power steering racks. In order to add a power steering pump I chose to go with a kit from Wayne at Kwik Performance. I met him at one of the shows and he was so helpful and just a very cool dude and seemed interested in my project. A few months later I bought his kit and the kindness continued. I needed to get power steering hoses for my truck, so I asked him for information on what fitting sizes would be needed on the pump provided in his kit. He made me a deal that I couldn't pass up. He asked me to take several pictures and measurements of my situation and he offered to make me a set of hoses at his cost, asked me to test fit them and report back with pictures and results. He wanted me to do this so that he would be able to sell kits for the guys that come along in the future with my exact set up. So if anyone orders a power steering hose kit from Kwik Performance for an L83 into a 67-72 C10, I was part of the "R and D" team that developed the kit.:lol:
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Very nice project Brian! You’re doing things right, should look and run well for years. Following along
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I'm loving the handmade fuel pump assembly. Wish I thought of that one. Do you have a rollover valve in it and do you have any kind of baffling tray or baffling in tank?
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Very clean power steering setup. I'm glad to see you have the tight 90's on the gear so you don't have to trim the inner fender.
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For the bed floor, I again went with 65standards method... drill out the spotwelds that hold the rear most cross sill to the floor, remove 8 inches of the beds length, then flatten out the last 1/2" and "tip" it over like it was done from The General. I've made the cuts but have yet to re attach the rear sill.
My floor does have some heavy pitting so I may end up covering it with some sort of rhino liner. Truthfully, I want a wood floor. I've come so close to ordering the needed parts to convert to a wood floor many times. I guess the reason I haven't pulled the trigger is it won't help the truck get back on the road any faster. In fact, I would probably add another few months to the project while I play with my new wood floor. I'm going to really try and hold off on that. The third pic shows the diamond tipped cutoff wheel I used. I recommend it for making thinner cuts than using a standard grinding wheel. It helps you keep a straight line also. |
Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
If you do go wood floor, check out gringos truck thread. First thing he does prep bed for lowering suspension and shows how he installed wood over metal bed. Good info if you haven't already seen it. But it's such a popular thread I'm betting you've seen it...
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The battery side of the core support wasn't up to snuff and neither was the wheel well. I just did a "make it strong and don't worry about making it perfect" repair... mainly because these areas will not be visible. It was good enough for me.
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a couple more pics... Of course I had to set them in place for a pic.
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Initially I bought an exhaust kit designed for C10's from Summit but took it back since it hung below the crossmember. I ended up with a builder kit in 2.5 inch diameter. The headers are from Speed Engineering and are surprisingly good quality for the cost. There are some swap headers for the Gen 5 that are over $1200. and these were 1/4 the price.
I also changed out the factory cross member that the driveshaft passes through the middle. The driveshaft angles were needing quite a bit of correction, and this cossmember raises the mounting points of the trailing arms, thereby lessening the angle correction needed to have everything in balance. The stock member was the lowest point of the trucks frame that would possibly scrape a speed bump. |
Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Money shots right there. Love that exhaust. Great work. And the core support and inners look good to me! I'm reshaping the heck out of my driver's side door all my mods so I know how those are a pain with all their crazy curves and structure. Digging your updates man :cool:
And the middle crossmember is the lowest? Hmm. I'm gonna have to go measure all my members in the morning... |
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When Loyd's truck was only a few months old, his wife Laura parked it on the side of the road. He apparently didn't trust her parking it in parking lots for fear of her backing into someone, and she honored his request. Someone sideswiped the truck on the drivers side while she was in a store shopping.:banghead::dohh::thud: The bedside was destroyed and the cab suffered a hefty crinkle to the upper body line.
Loyd took the truck to a local body shop where they replaced the bedside (from a green truck) and "repaired" the back corner of the cab. I use the term repaired lightly... the metal prep clearly wasn't done right since there was rust under the slathered on bondo that came off in chunks when I poked it with a screwdriver. I've debated whether or not to get a clean section from a donor cab instead of dealing with this mess, still on the fence... |
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Ouch homie, sideswiped. I bet ol uncle Loyd was shakin his head like "I can't win...". I feel like I saw a pic of your cab fixed in that area, so I'm going to be very patient and wait for the outcome ;)
That bedside tacked up looks straight brotha :thumbs: . |
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After I realized it was going to be necessary to cut out my floor to make room for the bigger transmission now poking through, I bought a new aftermarket high hump cover. I laid it on the floorboard and marked the outer line and holes to drill, then trimmed the excess away. I bought one of these nutsert tools so I could bolt it down. This thing is very handy...
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Sorry for so much of this being out of order. The farther I get into this I keep finding stuff I overlooked and should have showed earlier... O well. Back after I finalized where the exhaust pipes would be routed I wanted to add some V band clamps and proper hangers to the system.
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I had mentioned before the need to add a power steering pump to the motor. Over the past couple of years I have watched more and more companies bring parts to the aftermarket for the GenV LT. During that time I was trying to look at all of the options, and even considered going with an electric system like what is used on the Saturn Vue. I landed on the kit from Kwik Performance, mainly because I was very comfortable talking with Wayne, one of the owners, and felt like the guy would be there to help me when (not if) I had questions. Plus, I would rather support smaller businesses than large conglomerates. Turns out it looks to be a quality kit, and the help was there when I needed it.
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Looking good man!
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