|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Gas pedal cleaned and painted. This was a chore to scrape and wipe out every single little groove on this thing!
https://i.postimg.cc/7L52d0wM/IMG-1431-1.jpg All pedals finally mounted in place! https://i.postimg.cc/mrKHskrx/IMG-1432-1.jpg Started mounting the fuel tank relays and harness. https://i.postimg.cc/9MTqF24D/IMG-1433-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/T34yV1gy/IMG-1434-1.jpg I decided that since I'm going to go with a hydroboost setup, I should add a cooler to the system, since my 2002 1500HD utilizes one. I happened to have a spare one and modified it a bit. I cut off the lines and flared them for 3/8" line. https://i.postimg.cc/pTNpSS0R/IMG-1435-1.jpg Rear standoff: https://i.postimg.cc/025rhDCM/IMG-1437-1.jpg Mounted in all it's glory! https://i.postimg.cc/3xdNxhV3/IMG-1436-1.jpg Next up, the fuel system. I capped off the return ports on the Pollak valve as they won't be used with the Holley returnless system. https://i.postimg.cc/QxMxfsXc/IMG-1439-1.jpg The main harness ran from the firewall: https://i.postimg.cc/15YRTTt2/IMG-1440-1.jpg And around to the passenger side. Tank switching valve also mounted! https://i.postimg.cc/tT5pzvwr/IMG-1441-1.jpg Inner fuel lines and wires ran on the passenger side: https://i.postimg.cc/90QVgtjc/IMG-1442-1.jpg Passenger side tank completely mounted! https://i.postimg.cc/QNfj9PpC/IMG-1443-1.jpg I reused the grommet that originally would house the sending unit wires on the stock tanks for running the vent lines through the frame and tying them together. I will have to pick up more line, but it will run towards the back and terminate at about the same height as the rear axle vent line. https://i.postimg.cc/P5wH750v/IMG-1445-1.jpg Driver's side fuel tank is mounted and wiring ran: https://i.postimg.cc/q7HrHddb/IMG-1446-1.jpg Both tanks fully installed, wired, and plumbed! I still need to pick up a new terminal for the ground wire near the switching valve. https://i.postimg.cc/FRDXSdk8/IMG-1447-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/prrbJWDT/IMG-1448-1.jpg Shiny new filler necks! This definitely won't match the rest of the truck :lol: https://i.postimg.cc/KjWX96N5/IMG-1449-1.jpg Passenger side: https://i.postimg.cc/RCpzVtBn/IMG-1450-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/zXLYLfz2/IMG-1451-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/d06xNMQT/IMG-1454-1.jpg Driver side: https://i.postimg.cc/Fs250Q1r/IMG-1452-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/kXRLJhsk/IMG-1453-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/1tzYLW47/IMG-1455-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Another slightly sporadic update, I kicked through another handful of small things this weekend.
The PTO cover plates were still leaking on the transmission, even with new gaskets. I decided to ditch those and picked up some nice machined aluminum ones which should also benefit by cooling the oil a little more. I picked up a hydroboost rebuild kit for when I come across a rebuildable unit. The power steering cooler fittings came in, along with a Y-block for the fuel sensor, and some wiring connectors for later on in the game. https://i.postimg.cc/fTdr1Syh/IMG-1467-1.jpg My oil pressure sending unit adapter came in from Ebay. I believe this is off a late 80's/early 90's corvette. It has a dual outlet for both the stock and Holley sensors. https://i.postimg.cc/QdryDNKK/IMG-1470-1.jpg I also picked up a new brake light switch, oil pressure switch, and a bottle of brake fluid for the clutch cylinder. A few things also came in from Summit, a couple fuel fittings, fuel hose fire liner, and the firewall grommet for the Holley harness. https://i.postimg.cc/x1yF1rLx/IMG-1471-1.jpg Assembled the fuel Y-block. https://i.postimg.cc/jjx3W8Xs/IMG-1472-1.jpg This is how it will mount with the sensor. https://i.postimg.cc/hG2yV9yV/IMG-1473-1.jpg I trimmed the grommet up to the 1" mark and ran it under hot water for a couple of minutes to soften it up more. This was still a TIGHT squeeze! https://i.postimg.cc/W3t98hCC/IMG-1474-1.jpg But now it's on, and looks great! I ran the USB cable inside it as well, and will wait until I go to lay the harness out before I secure it in place. https://i.postimg.cc/ZRgwMJhR/IMG-1475-1.jpg Installed the fittings on the power steering cooler. https://i.postimg.cc/Kvt00XpG/IMG-1478-1.jpg Next, I drilled the holes for the nutserts required for mounting the battery tray to the driver's side fender. https://i.postimg.cc/RC6snJcn/IMG-1476-1.jpg These were an absolute PITA to install. I had to use a two foot extension on the setting tool! https://i.postimg.cc/HWqS0W2v/IMG-1477-1.jpg Test fitting the lower bracket and drilling the dimpled holes in the core support and inner fender for mounting. https://i.postimg.cc/W1jXK9xM/IMG-1479-1.jpg Why they sell the battery tray and battery try mount as two separate pieces is beyond me...seems like one of those parts that should come pre-assembled. Oh well, at least I can fix that! I marked the area for the holes to be drilled. https://i.postimg.cc/htrpqLqN/IMG-1480-1.jpg Transferred the holes to the tray, and cleaned the areas to bare metal. https://i.postimg.cc/Xv1Lrnq8/IMG-1481-1.jpg Started plug welding on one side. The tray was slightly tweaked, so I had to transfer the clamp halfway through the job. https://i.postimg.cc/jq7cj0bH/IMG-1482-1.jpg Finished, top side! https://i.postimg.cc/mgbyVPFj/IMG-1483-1.jpg And on the bottom side. https://i.postimg.cc/P52z7dWj/IMG-1484-1.jpg Cleaned up the welds and shot it with a coat of paint, it actually looks factory! https://i.postimg.cc/xd8yDB5b/IMG-1485-1.jpg Next up, I bench bled the clutch master cylinder and installed it, and bled out the whole system. Seems to work well, the pedal feels soft for a short bit of travel, but I think that is just taking up the air gap on the throwout bearing, as it does engage the pressure plate fully. The hood hinge hits the reservoir in the closed position though, so I'll have to modify that mounting bracket to provide clearance. https://i.postimg.cc/Pq7btKVV/IMG-1487-1.jpg Also cleaned up the fuel tank guards and installed them. Some slight trimming on the "lip" on the sides, but other than that, they fit the aftermarket tanks very well. https://i.postimg.cc/brcQnrhQ/IMG-1486-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/D0r1PhvR/IMG-1488-1.jpg I installed the Ebay Corvette adapter and installed the two oil pressure sending units. https://i.postimg.cc/ZKLr9JDd/IMG-1492-1.jpg And finally, installed and routed the positive battery cable. I'll be fine tuning the fitment once the new power steering pump and lines are installed, this old one has a sensor and different style of line taking up real estate behind the pump. https://i.postimg.cc/zGXTK49P/IMG-1493-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
It's the weekend, so more goodies! The headlight harness and taillight harness showed up from Harnessworx. I picked up some more fuel line to do both the fuel tank vents and the engine lines when the time comes. I also picked up a length of power steering hose to route to the cooler. New heater slider knobs and a gauge cluster lens as well!
https://i.postimg.cc/jj58JkrQ/IMG-1499-1.jpg The hydroboost specific power steering pump and lines came in today from Napa. All that's left is finding a hydroboost unit! https://i.postimg.cc/WzMSPBMj/IMG-1536-1.jpg I picked up the correct bolts for the PPE PTO covers for the transmission. https://i.postimg.cc/Qt7Jp2Y5/IMG-1532-1.jpg One installed! I'll finish the other up tomorrow :lol: https://i.postimg.cc/wxhk3dmY/IMG-1533-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
1 Attachment(s)
This picture kind of captures it all for me. Warning! No, just kidding, what strikes me about this build and what I try to keep in mind on my own is the idea of taking it in stages. Making it a good running truck, cleaning it up, addressing cosmetics, etc. That you could be single-minded and install brand new parts right next to a rust hole shows dedication. I've had builds where I thought I had to fix everything at once and consequently the build stalled and I got discouraged. Hopefully this makes sense. Maybe I'll just summarize by saying good job!
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
I get exactly what you mean. I've owned well over 100 cars, and half of them were classic vehicles. It's easy to dive into something and have an amazing vision for it, only to be caught up in "project creep", where too much gets torn down at once because hey, while you're in there, you might as well take care of this as well! I used to do just that, and still do to some extent, but it's much easier now to step back and realize exactly what does and doesn't need to be done to simply maximize the time spent enjoying your ride in the best way possible - driving it! David Freiburger a while back had a quote that stuck with me, "Don't get it right, just get it running". Life is short and most of us that enjoy building cars like myself, invest a lot of time into them trying to make them perfect, my view now is that it doesn't need to be perfect to enjoy it. This is the way I try to tackle each of my builds:
1. Clean everything! I don't care how rough, how much rust, dirt, or grime is present, everything gets washed! It provides easy progress and lets you enjoy working on a car that already looks better from when you first got it, plus makes it much nicer to work on and may even let you spot potential problems that may have been hidden by the dirt. 2. Get it running! Sure, it's hard to hold back from tearing into a brand new project to just work on everything right away! But getting it running lets you: A. Determine the working condition of the drivetrain, B. Allows the car to be mobile so it doesn't become a source of frustration by being in the way, and C. Hey! Now you can drive it! 3. Make it safe! Even bringing back the most hopeless of engines is worthless if the car can't be driven safely. Steering, suspension, brakes, seat belts, and lights are all pretty easy fixes and ensure that no unwanted surprises can happen. Stick with rebuilding or replacing stock parts for the time being and perform large upgrades later on (disc or big brake kits, suspension kits, etc), as you can still drive it while saving up money or accumulating all the pieces. 4. Everything else! Once the car is running, driving, and safely operational, anything else you need to do is just a weekend project. Do one thing, or area, at a time. Try not to keep the car down for long periods, as this becomes discouraging if you aren't driving the car regularly. I've been asked with many project cars before, that are mechanically pristine, but tend to be imperfect on the outside, "When are you going to paint it?! I can't believe you would drive it without finishing it!" My reply is simply, "It has paint on it, and the fact that it is worn or mismatched doesn't stop it from being driven. I may or may not ever get to it, but at least I'm out enjoying my car! Where is yours?" It does take a lot of self control to get there, but I feel that it allows you more time to enjoy these the way they were meant to be! Alright, more parts have arrived! The hydroboost specific power steering pump showed up, along with the remaining hoses. https://i.postimg.cc/rpTYG2vW/IMG-1536-1.jpg My Nick Williams 92mm cable driven throttle body also showed up, along with the throttle cable bracket! Quite a nice piece! I also picked up LED bulbs for all the exterior lights, and a new pair of taillight lenses (one showed up late). https://i.postimg.cc/PqMV2Fj7/IMG-1540-1.jpg Now that I finished up mounting the oil pressure sensors, time to get started on the intake! Stripped and sprayed on some cleaner. https://i.postimg.cc/vTC0cJr4/IMG-1549-1.jpg All wiped down and detailed! There was quite a bit of oil on the inside I had to clean too. https://i.postimg.cc/7PRss2Fq/IMG-1550-1.jpg New OEM intake gaskets! https://i.postimg.cc/3x5L7Hr6/IMG-1551-1.jpg I went to mount the throttle body...and was met with this surprise! The cable bracket hits on the nipple on the intake manifold! I wasn't very happy about this, as the bracket alone was close to $50! This is supposed to be about as top of the line as you can get for throttle bodies. https://i.postimg.cc/kgQTghB5/IMG-1552-1.jpg So I sucked it up and trimmed out a nice radius with the dremel and repainted the bracket... https://i.postimg.cc/MTT5t6tc/IMG-1554-1.jpg ...and then ran into this! The inner lip sit over the mounting flange of the intake. I'm pretty pissed at this point, how can they sell this with such a terrible fit? I've heard nothing but good things about NW parts up to this point. https://i.postimg.cc/0NZZpMGR/IMG-1553-1.jpg I decided to set it aside and move onto other things. I flipped the fuel rail around and reinstalled it, and also added the Earl's quick connect adapter. https://i.postimg.cc/Tw494zHt/IMG-1555-1.jpg Intake is installed! https://i.postimg.cc/2jPpqM8d/IMG-1556-1.jpg I had to also swap out the coolant crossover line as the old one wouldn't have allowed the hose to be installed as it was under the intake. https://i.postimg.cc/qvxW57cQ/IMG-1557-1.jpg I ran the power steering cooling lines out front. I will need to get some conduit to protect the hoses before the front end goes back on. https://i.postimg.cc/ZqYXthVm/IMG-1558-1.jpg Connected the line to the box. https://i.postimg.cc/qRSF360B/IMG-1559-1.jpg Installed the other side PTO cover plate! https://i.postimg.cc/ZnNMFYK8/IMG-1560-1.jpg Came back to the throttle body and trimmed off the bottom lip from the bracket. https://i.postimg.cc/vZY0Dt9L/IMG-1564-1.jpg Aaaaannnnndddd it still hits. Seriously, I thought Nick Williams was supposed to be the best stuff out there. This is one of the ****tiest parts I've used on the truck so far! https://i.postimg.cc/2S02WL7p/IMG-1565-1.jpg Clearanced it one last time, and it finally fit! Jesus christ that was an ordeal. I also decided to take advantage of the "wiring trays" cast into the intake and routed the alternator wire up through one of them. https://i.postimg.cc/vTwzyrbn/IMG-1568-1.jpg Finally, finally, finally installed! https://i.postimg.cc/rpbjn6HQ/IMG-1566-1.jpg Next, I moved to the rear and started changing out the taillight harness! https://i.postimg.cc/gk95chNN/IMG-1561-1.jpg The new LED bulbs! Yes, they look like aliens. https://i.postimg.cc/4NTLRgx0/IMG-1562-1.jpg One new taillight, at least! https://i.postimg.cc/rFCh8Pdw/IMG-1563-1.jpg Under bed routing https://i.postimg.cc/MZ15DFmm/IMG-1570-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/y8pyx47s/IMG-1571-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/4yGzqXQb/IMG-1572-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/L5VzMGyd/IMG-1573-1.jpg Cleaned this area up a little bit more. https://i.postimg.cc/wx55Js9W/IMG-1574-1.jpg Ran some conduit and layed some heat tape on the reverse light switch wire. https://i.postimg.cc/9FWdBFMc/IMG-1575-1.jpg Installed! https://i.postimg.cc/J4PbYVDZ/IMG-1576-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/8zcLqKM3/IMG-1577-1.jpg And to end the weekend off, I ran the headlight wiring harness! The routing on the passenger side may have to get redone, as I'm not quite sure yet how I'll be mounting the air filter housing, but for the most part this is how it should end up! https://i.postimg.cc/pLSKxfBd/IMG-1578-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/wBsLB1WQ/IMG-1579-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Quote:
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Quote:
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Pretty good start to this weekend already! The other side taillight came in!
https://i.postimg.cc/tJdNjSLf/IMG-1588-1.jpg I also got started on the power steering pump change, or the real fun part :lol: Pulley is off! https://i.postimg.cc/sf5c7xvc/IMG-1587-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/FHHgMxGW/IMG-1589-1.jpg Old pump removed! https://i.postimg.cc/rwZCMtP8/IMG-1590-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Pq8ZHVD4/IMG-1591-1.jpg Here's our new pump, the pump and lines were ordered for a 2002 1500HD, as my DD uses the exact same parts. This pressure line is ran a little different than factory though. It will have to be fastened above the return line in order to clear the frame, rather than below it like the factory did. The lines also require a few easy tweaks. https://i.postimg.cc/3JJvNxpW/IMG-1592-1.jpg New pump installed for test fit! https://i.postimg.cc/YqnmWBfR/IMG-1593-1.jpg The pressure line will have to be bent so that the angle resembles the upper return line port. https://i.postimg.cc/qqBzN1NW/IMG-1594-1.jpg It also needs to be slightly twisted into a more upright position parallel to the rear portion of the bend. https://i.postimg.cc/tJr7WFPJ/IMG-1595-1.jpg The lower return line needs to be slightly pushed down to sit horizontal. https://i.postimg.cc/xjgXwV7Q/IMG-1596-1.jpg And turned just a bit more inward to allow for line clearance at the frame. https://i.postimg.cc/2SL3Lb5j/IMG-1598-1.jpg This is how everything will fit and clear afterwards! https://i.postimg.cc/j2kdLt0J/IMG-1599-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/J7d13rvs/IMG-1600-1.jpg Lower return line hose routing. https://i.postimg.cc/0Nxx5bMB/IMG-1602-1.jpg Pulley clearance, at least 3/8". https://i.postimg.cc/nzP6mzrZ/IMG-1603-1.jpg Pressure lines now perfectly reach the hydroboost area! (I hope) :lol: https://i.postimg.cc/PrWTgWNw/IMG-1604-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
A few more things came in! The new H4 conversion headlights, a 99-09 Silverado throttle cable, and a TPS and IAC sensors. The throttle cable does not fit the Nick Williams throttle cable bracket, so I am even less impressed with their throttle body now. I will definitely not be wasting money on one of their products again.
https://i.postimg.cc/xT3fqyRG/IMG-1605-1.jpg Old headlights removed! https://i.postimg.cc/52tVycj1/IMG-1606-1.jpg New lights! These are actually quite a bit flatter, unlike the stock ones which have a much more pronounced curve to the glass. https://i.postimg.cc/GpWwXHKh/IMG-1607-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/T1G8XFBz/IMG-1608-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/nVYb1VDp/IMG-1609-1.jpg Installed! https://i.postimg.cc/vHYR2Rr9/IMG-1610-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/fRyGZxgR/IMG-1611-1.jpg Also installed the two sensors to the throttle body. https://i.postimg.cc/vHHjLryt/IMG-1612-1.jpg I picked up some license plate lights and battery terminal studs while I was out in town picking up parts for the Malibu. https://i.postimg.cc/fR1rN198/IMG-1619-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/wvp4tJFJ/IMG-1620-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/DZPj1ZYN/IMG-1621-1.jpg Also scored a HYDROBOOST! :metal: https://i.postimg.cc/NFGNDc3j/IMG-1630-1.jpg Installing connectors on the license plate lights. https://i.postimg.cc/SRZgtP47/IMG-1633-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Kvzqgm79/IMG-1635-1.jpg These also came in, but I wasn't expecting them for another week! LED H4 fanless headlight bulbs. https://i.postimg.cc/KvH9PCJm/IMG-1636-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/pL5sqk6z/IMG-1637-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/k5rfZ80Z/IMG-1638-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
So since I actually didn't expect these for another week, the headlights are coming back out to install them!
Included H4 adapters installed. https://i.postimg.cc/5tdL7D98/IMG-1644-1.jpg Dust boot installed! https://i.postimg.cc/zfCW9p36/IMG-1645-1.jpg Headlight reinstalled and bulb installed from the rear. https://i.postimg.cc/gJGRdRZJ/IMG-1647-1.jpg This is the reason I prefer the fanless bulbs - many times the fan won't fit in tight areas, especially most Chevy trucks. The fanless ones have copper belts, which can be formed to fit nearly anywhere! https://i.postimg.cc/MTtBGT7Y/IMG-1649-1.jpg Negative battery cable installed! https://i.postimg.cc/7hWTgWQG/IMG-1650-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/FFWc5Ysr/IMG-1660-1.jpg Core support ground finished. https://i.postimg.cc/X7r5Vnpw/IMG-1661-1.jpg The billet grille has definitely seen better days, but we'll see if it'll come back any. Before: https://i.postimg.cc/qMW3qW3W/IMG-1662-1.jpg After knocking down the rust with steel wool and going over the metal with a polish. Much better than I expected! https://i.postimg.cc/x1HbzgG8/IMG-1663-1.jpg Installed back onto the truck! https://i.postimg.cc/hv6fJ7fV/IMG-1664-1.jpg Headlight bezels reinstalled also! https://i.postimg.cc/8k0FXxts/IMG-1665-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Nick the truck is looking great. It is a great feeling put parts on rather than taking them off. I did the H4 relay in my ‘88 and it made a huge difference, I am interested in those fanless bulbs.
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Thank you! And yes, it's certainly nice to be moving the needle more towards the assembly side of things! :lol: As far as those LED lights, I think these are the way to go. I've used them on 10+ vehicles now, even 4 wheelers, and haven't had a single failure. I find them on ebay, I believe the seller's name is SOCALLED, but I think there's more than one seller with this style. It's usually a black box with "G6" on the side, although it looks like they may have white boxes now. regardless, they're easy to find in whatever socket size you need, just simply type in "H4 led fanless" (or whatever type you need) and they come up. They're about $41 for a pair, very reasonable.
This weekend I started on rebuilding the hydroboost unit, which probably really didn't need it, but I've never done one before so I wanted to try it. They're almost stupid easy! Disassembled and painted the housings! https://i.postimg.cc/gj1WMsqT/IMG-1700-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/VshmLsQW/IMG-1701-1.jpg New seals on the actuator shaft. https://i.postimg.cc/hP7gJFKW/IMG-1699-1.jpg Paint is dry, lets get this together! https://i.postimg.cc/7Z840BLC/IMG-1714-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/cHbyHhjL/IMG-1715-1.jpg Guts installed, housing bolted back together! https://i.postimg.cc/brSX2bcH/IMG-1716-1.jpg Gas canister installed! https://i.postimg.cc/Bbrr56JW/IMG-1717-1.jpg I also started running the wiring for the Holley Terminator X. I greatly underestimated how long the harness is, so I made a change of plans and decided to run the ECU outside, likely in about the same place that the air box will end up being. https://i.postimg.cc/bYZdRBqL/IMG-1706-1.jpg Hydroboost is installed! The lines fit just about perfect! https://i.postimg.cc/SQHR1fs4/IMG-1718-1.jpg The engine bay as it sits now! https://i.postimg.cc/tCPTKnZx/IMG-1719-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/XYbJ4NdD/IMG-1720-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
I absolutely love your attention to detail. Looks great!
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Thank you!
So, I finally made a little more progress. I've ran into another transmission leak, this time the front bearing retainer plate and I've severely lacked the motivation to deal with that problem. However, after a month wait, the new dash harness has arrived! This is from M&H, and the quality is astounding! This is the Classic Update series, which has a few extra circuits built into it. I likely won't be utilizing those, however, it also updates all the fuses to the modern blade style! https://i.postimg.cc/Zqn45dXX/IMG-1941-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/25tmb5Dy/IMG-1977-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/nr4tPYQ9/IMG-1979-1.jpg Once the harness was mostly laid out, the steering column was able to go back in! https://i.postimg.cc/W3JVMPNn/IMG-1978-1.jpg Along with the steering shaft! https://i.postimg.cc/qMGTcwT9/IMG-1980-1.jpg Two questions now - Does anyone know where to buy a 1978 clutch pedal safety switch? It seems that nobody lists these anywhere. Also, does anyone have a picture of where this is supposed to be clipped to? https://i.postimg.cc/zf4ZDPCR/IMG-1981-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Wow! Great work.
I'll definitely be watching and taking notes. |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
So this isn't really much of a massive update as I would like it to be, but I finally got a few parts in.
Adapter for the MAP sensor https://i.postimg.cc/GmhCRgD4/IMG-2084-1.jpg 98-02 Camaro/Firebird throttle cable that FINALLY came off backorder! https://i.postimg.cc/XvtSwVz5/IMG-2248-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Wow, an actual update! :lol:
I got the throttle cable installed today. Not a perfect fit, but I'm going to make it work. Looking back, I really wish I would have used the original intake and throttle body, as this one has given me way too many issues for the small gain in TB size. The cable fits decently, but is about an inch or so too long. My potential fix for this will be to buy a 1" throttle body spacer, which will give me room to mount the cable bracket rearward off the throttle body to take up the slack in the cable. https://i.postimg.cc/tTJ3J3hz/IMG-2250-1.jpg I also FINALLY worked up the motivation to fix the transmission leak after putting it off for nearly 3 months. It went smoother than I anticipated, which was a nice change of pace. The offending leak spot, with the transmission slid back. https://i.postimg.cc/zBQngy7Y/IMG-2251-1.jpg Leaky plate removed! This is the first time in my life I have actually had a legitimate use for a Z-driver. https://i.postimg.cc/wMsDc94y/IMG-2252-1.jpg New billet aluminum plate. https://i.postimg.cc/ThMgtBBk/IMG-2253-1.jpg I ran a small, thin bead of case sealant around the outer edge and bolt holes on both sides of the gasket. I'm 100% not chancing any more leaks with this transmission! New plate installed! https://i.postimg.cc/9X4kNTvT/IMG-2254-1.jpg The transmission is reinstalled! https://i.postimg.cc/NGWnhFcn/IMG-2255-1.jpg I also took care of the ground wire for the fuel pump, since I was underneath. https://i.postimg.cc/KvBHmbc8/IMG-2256-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Another decent update!
I've been posting this thread alongside the LS1Tech forums as well. Another member there, RedXray, turned me over to these Glenn's Auto Performance throttle cable brackets, specifically meant to use on TBSS/NNBS intakes like mine. https://i.postimg.cc/nhTXyyTL/gapbrkt.jpg We speculated that the position of the bracket (plus the fact that it has a slotted adjustment) sat further back in relation to the Nick Williams bracket, and should eliminate the need for a TB spacer. The bracket also has the Silverado style cable mount, which theoretically should let me use the 99-02 Silverado cable I originally ordered. So what did I do? I went out and destroyed the 3-month-backorder 98-02 F-Body cable in the name of science. I think this may actually work really well. The 99-02 Truck cable has two “stoppers” on the pedal end of the cable, as seen in the pictures. The little plastic clip that inserts into the pedal arm is on the end one. Installed like this, the secondary “stopper” won’t allow the cable to retract enough to bring the pedal all the way up. So, the F-Body cable donated its plastic clip, installed in the inner “stopper”, which drastically shortens up the cable and also allows the pedal to come back up to the top fully. If this works, the extra cable past the inner stopper can be removed later. https://i.postimg.cc/zBsBbG0V/FEDECC...269-B57-C3.jpg Since the cable is now much shorter, I moved the TB cable end up one hole in the throttle body. As you can see, this puts the cable a little bit further back than the Nick Williams cable bracket, which appears to be nearly identical to where the Glenn’s cable bracket appears to sit. Even if it does end up in the same spot, a 3/8 to 1/2” TB spacer should easily take up that length, and the adjustability of the Glenn’s cable bracket should allow me to fine tune in the correct amount of free play. So, I ordered a bracket! https://i.postimg.cc/bwwzvnpm/1-A780...-F7-FFB760.jpg A few other things showed up alongside it! A new coolant reservoir, new cap, RH battery tray brace, and a new PCB for the gauge cluster! https://i.postimg.cc/14x02kmt/IMG-2275-1.jpg I also got a set of battery terminals for the dedicated Holley wiring. https://i.postimg.cc/tCQnWtY9/IMG-2293-1.jpg The GAP bracket showed up, and it is a NICE piece! I was all too happy to throw that Nick Williams bracket in the garbage. This gave me the proper throttle cable free play and still has plenty of adjustment left! the 99-02 Silverado cable worked great with the 2nd clip on the pedal end. Gets to full throttle with no pedal modification. https://i.postimg.cc/t4jwVf3p/IMG-2276-1.jpg Next, I mounted the RH battery tray support. This will eventually get modified to house the new style Silverado air filter. https://i.postimg.cc/g0MTQ2f2/IMG-2277-1.jpg The new coolant bottle was mounted next, with a new overflow line installed! https://i.postimg.cc/T254NGQT/IMG-2292-1.jpg Following this, I came back inside to focus on the gauge cluster. The needles were pretty faded, so I decided to try my luck repainting them. I picked up some Neon Orange paint from Walmart, which also has the interesting effect of glowing under blacklight. I also picked up some LED bulbs for the cluster, heater panel, and wiper switch. https://i.postimg.cc/hPF3Hw3T/IMG-2279-1.jpg Starting off! Here, you can see the needles are almost faded to white. The lens is also scratched beyond saving. https://i.postimg.cc/VLjH1R3T/IMG-2280-1.jpg Completely disassembled! https://i.postimg.cc/nhpSLmxL/IMG-2281-1.jpg The old PCB was unusable also. https://i.postimg.cc/NjDJ20Gk/IMG-2282-1.jpg Cluster housing cleaned and dried! I would've replaced this one also as it has a few superficial cracks, but a factory clock housing is not reproduced and I didn't want to perform the same modifications to make it fit. https://i.postimg.cc/yNNfmzk4/IMG-2283-1.jpg Cleaning and surface filling all the contact points, and coating all exposed points with a thin film of dielectric grease. https://i.postimg.cc/tRLWDGmQ/IMG-2284-1.jpg The new PCB is laid out! https://i.postimg.cc/dtrdxNz7/IMG-2285-1.jpg All the retainers and bulbs installed! https://i.postimg.cc/x1QHDy26/IMG-2286-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/k5XbDJD8/IMG-2287-1.jpg Gauges cleaned and reinstalled! https://i.postimg.cc/Gp7syWsf/IMG-2288-1.jpg Now for the real tedious part, don't get neon paint everywhere! All the gauges except the clock were painted in place, the clock needles were removed and painted individually. It's not as professional as I would've liked the results to be, but it still turned out good! An airbrush would certainly be the way to go for a professional restoration. https://i.postimg.cc/4dYHbW6x/IMG-2289-1.jpg I ended up going with two coats, and this is the result! https://i.postimg.cc/7h7CjbQv/IMG-2290-1.jpg And to button them up, the gauge bezel and a brand new lens is installed! https://i.postimg.cc/BZ11jwZh/IMG-2291-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Wow, TWO updates today! :lol:
I picked up a few things I forgot about yesterday, namely fluid for the transmission, a few various sizes of cable routing clamps, and ground straps for the engine to firewall, and engine to frame grounds. https://i.postimg.cc/6QdPcNXM/IMG-2294-1.jpg After confirming that my engine to frame strap was the proper length, I put an end on the Terminator X's ground wire. https://i.postimg.cc/QthynnNh/IMG-2295-1.jpg General routing of the engine to frame strap. https://i.postimg.cc/DZ6MVdms/IMG-2296-1.jpg All three grounds installed! The third is the secondary ground for the headlights, from the core support. I also installed a cable clamp and a piece of sticky padding to keep the wires from chaffing on the fenderwell edge. https://i.postimg.cc/PJqFdp87/IMG-2297-1.jpg Installed a clamp on the throttle cable once I was satisfied with the routing. https://i.postimg.cc/KjspjGP8/IMG-2298-1.jpg Installed better looking cable clamps on the Terminator X harness running along the firewall, and also the engine to firewall ground can be seen peeking out behind there. https://i.postimg.cc/L4ybNTcF/IMG-2299-1.jpg I installed another cable clamp at the rear of the intake to support the oil pressure and unused knock sensor wires to prevent wire whip. I also put another piece of sticky padding under the knock sensor wire cap to prevent rattling. https://i.postimg.cc/wTZbdBxW/IMG-2300-1.jpg And the same for the injector wire connector where it rests against the back of the intake! https://i.postimg.cc/cL3k1Nrd/IMG-2301-1.jpg And finally, a cable clamp for the MAP sensor wiring. https://i.postimg.cc/cJN9r5nw/IMG-2302-1.jpg One thirsty transmission. The SM465 takes 4.2 quarts! https://i.postimg.cc/YSfXgf6V/IMG-2303-1.jpg I think I forgot to call this out on the previous post, but a new junction block was installed on the firewall. https://i.postimg.cc/Qt8fq9SM/IMG-2304-1.jpg The remaining two LED's were installed in the wiper switch and heater control units. The phone camera doesn't pick up the light as well as I would like, but they're very well lit and the light seems to distribute pretty evenly. Bright and white! I can't wait to see what the whole dash will look like with the gauge cluster installed! https://i.postimg.cc/C1cmrh6s/IMG-2305-1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/gjr4fCCF/IMG-2306-1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
I like seeing all of the tidy work on a truck that's not had the easiest life. It held out this long and deserves the good treatment.
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Thank you. One day it will get the full send restoration treatment it truly deserves, as it’s more than earned it. It will likely be a full replacement of everything but the cab, and even that cab is going to need some severe rust repair once that happens, but I would love to get it fully restored while still keeping it the way I remember it.
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Very nice work! I'm currently working on an LS swap with Terminator X as well. Your thread is going to help he out ALOT. Thanks
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Thank you, and awesome! Feel free to let me know if you’d like any additional pictures of harness routing or anything else that might help you.
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Since I changed all the lights over to LED, new flashers were needed. These came in from SuperBrightLEDs, and should hopefully make them all function like stock. HD ones were ordered for the additional load that trailer lights add to the system. Black is for regular turn signals, red is for hazards. Just FYI for anyone else doing LEDs, the flashers are wired at different polarities at the flasher terminals on these Chevy trucks, and will cause issues if the flashers don’t match. Hence the need for two different flasher units.
https://i.postimg.cc/25r29MwT/15620-...E3-D48-CF4.jpg Summit also delivered more fire sleeve for fuel lines, solder connectors for a few more bits of wiring remaining, and the fuel pressure sensor wiring extension so I can safely mount it to the fender instead of the engine. https://i.postimg.cc/zf7ps72N/9-D383...B4-EA70-E9.jpg I also picked up a headlight switch which I had forgotten to order earlier. https://i.postimg.cc/d1S611KS/68427-...-D35973-A5.jpg Headlight switch installed! https://i.postimg.cc/90RpqhmX/6268-B...-DC0628-AD.jpg Flashers installed in the fuse block! https://i.postimg.cc/XqL2w0mT/60-ED4...-F15-C5872.jpg Extended the ground wire for the fuel pump relays, and changed to a ring terminal. https://i.postimg.cc/D09crM0r/C91-D6...3-E66-E922.jpg Under dash grounds finished! https://i.postimg.cc/fWVnvSky/33-E14...2-CBDFB3-D.jpg I also ran the secondary ground wire for the fuel pumps themselves. This interties with the ground wire near the switching valve, to eliminate any chance of grounding issues with the pumps! https://i.postimg.cc/c43ppqRN/1-EAA2...-D234-C7-D.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/qvX978Db/C6-A2-...-B16-B9-FB.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Just went through your whole thread! Man you are moving along speed! Very nice work on the details. Gonna be awesome to see this thing back together and on the road.
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Thank you! I’m really hoping I’ll have it on the road by summertime. It’s coming quick!
So, I am EXTREMELY happy to report that the transmission has not leaked a drop of fluid all week. I think I’m finally moving past that saga. The next step now is the transfer case! Yeah, it’s dirty. We’ll fix that though. https://i.postimg.cc/DysT16Tv/03-C84...E1685988-C.jpg I scraped off most of the big chunks that I could, then heaved it up on the bench for disassembly. https://i.postimg.cc/htgHTqss/799-BB...582-C85094.jpg Case housing stripped, wire brushed to remove all the fine dirt, and wiped down with brake clean. https://i.postimg.cc/zvKcHdR4/3-B480...-F54-D1-D5.jpg Internals! Which will get cleaned at a later time. Everything appears to be in great shape, so I’m happy. https://i.postimg.cc/GhPfc5Ry/9-B6-D...70-ED68-E3.jpg Taped the housing off for paint! Unfortunately this side is all I have time for this weekend. https://i.postimg.cc/g2NBhLnc/807312...E93-A5-F36.jpg Aaaaaand paint! Hopefully by this time next weekend, it will be a complete transfer case again! https://i.postimg.cc/gjFMpvBs/DB4-F1...7-F831-B81.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
1 Attachment(s)
I didn't know that a pre-made bracket existed for cable throttle on a NBS intake. I made one using a stock 99-02 truck bracket, cut it up and used a chunk of angle steel to make a brace. Measured the distance between the cable rotor and the bracket on a stock intake and replicated that. Works well.
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
I’m honestly surprised there isn’t more. I would think it would be a fairly common part, but apparently not!
I started off the weekend by painting the other side of the case. https://i.postimg.cc/VNPk0LZ6/120476...1842-CA9-B.jpg A few other parts showed up as well. Airaid intake tube, and a few more wiring pieces from Summit. https://i.postimg.cc/Lsk6tKGV/67-CC9...8-E7-AF100.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/RhhSx3hP/2-A6-B...38790-B1-E.jpg Depinned the Holley accessory connector for the electric fan relay grounds only. https://i.postimg.cc/VsZsBFZ2/7-DAAB...A7-EAC98-E.jpg This is something that always bothers me on these trucks. In order to remove the harness, either the harness needs to be depinned, or the tanks need to be dropped. Added a quick connector for the fuel sending unit in case this one ever needs to come out. https://i.postimg.cc/sDBjnZtx/D598-B...DE966-FFE0.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/02L8hysf/DF5-C7...1-A9-FDC95.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/y8cVKC6z/847-D6...-FC1-ED3-D.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/7L4qYtbJ/8-B6-D...27-D1-DEF1.jpg I also blanked off the currently unneeded Tach wire. https://i.postimg.cc/k5yqVNt1/CF186-...C02046-B55.jpg This is a sub harness for the remaining wires on the Terminator X. Power, Ignition, and Fuel Pump. Power is the ring terminal, which will run to the factory junction block for battery power. Ignition is on the two pin connector, and will utilize the distributor power wire on the engine bay harness. Fuel pump is the other wire on the two pin connector, and will connect to the fuel pump harness to drive the relays. https://i.postimg.cc/C1P07F7b/2-B67-...E9582-E166.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/T1K6HZNF/F496-B...F7-EB66038.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/90sh3JvM/77-DEE...80201-C5-F.jpg Next, I mocked up the air intake system just to get an idea of where everything will potentially sit. Unfortunately, I had to remove the factory jack mounted on the fender, but it likely wouldn’t have ever been able to get high enough for this lifted truck anyway. https://i.postimg.cc/BQ135fK1/FD7-C2...6-C4837-B3.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/mgfs8pYp/463-FA...77-F3661-E.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/cJdNNK5Q/32-F9-...FEAD231395.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/mgYGq3VL/C0-D7-...-CE6-B7-BA.jpg Back to the transfer case now that the paint is dry! https://i.postimg.cc/rmP6WfyJ/CAA0-C...78-CF0-EE1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/SR2BGcJp/190-F6...74-BD07-B3.jpg New shift shaft seals installed https://i.postimg.cc/QC2RYVTK/9583-D...A2-A73-E10.jpg Lockout pins https://i.postimg.cc/jqB2YX6P/11-EF9...B79-FB41-B.jpg Idler gears and shaft installed https://i.postimg.cc/mDtL0ztm/41-BA1...C76-AF1-D5.jpg Shift forks and input shaft https://i.postimg.cc/wvZqHqNg/8-D9-F...66-A36-C08.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/L4g4DPdX/B73-D1...CDF9770-A9.jpg Front output cluster https://i.postimg.cc/HsGYhLHt/0126-B...-A024-FAC7.jpg Front output bearing retainer with new seal https://i.postimg.cc/c4QxyNLG/FE7-B6...3029-EA2-E.jpg Rear support plate! https://i.postimg.cc/fRDwMgVt/ACB49-...1-BFF85-C8.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
More transfer case fun!
I painted a few more parts overnight. Installed the front output cover and yoke, and the serial tag. https://i.postimg.cc/SNb5jk5Z/35963-...36-D746-B3.jpg Also installed the PTO cover plate. https://i.postimg.cc/m23nHKWT/14-C04...BBC7-D28-B.jpg Then the rear output gear assembly. https://i.postimg.cc/Jz12cKRZ/B3-A25...C7-B7-A493.jpg I had to make my own gaskets out of an extra one, because these weren’t included. https://i.postimg.cc/jSZk8Nj9/B24-D5...-D5-E0-BFE.jpg Detents and plugs installed! https://i.postimg.cc/HLnvFxcL/7-E534...ABE15-BDF4.jpg Installed the rear output extension housing. https://i.postimg.cc/Pq7VHjYQ/8-B05-...28-C9-C2-E.jpg Along with the seal housing and speedometer drive components. https://i.postimg.cc/mkfdcydc/3-ECFA...-D5512-C12.jpg Rear output yoke installed! https://i.postimg.cc/3NXt206t/279-D9...77-D64-C64.jpg Shift linkage installed, it’s complete! https://i.postimg.cc/HWXZqFxb/E87184...2029-C6-FF.jpg Prepping the gasket surfaces with some sealant for install. https://i.postimg.cc/L6SC2vYw/9-E81-...EF0-CADACC.jpg About ready to roll this thing into me and bench press it into place! https://i.postimg.cc/PrM6xZ1x/AE1-AB...1-B613-EE1.jpg After a few choice words and a little bit of struggling with turning the input shaft and holding the transfer case from crushing me with just one arm, it’s installed! https://i.postimg.cc/dVt5T199/0-D879...A2-A364844.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Like how you are keeping the factory airbox, looks right at home in there.
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Goddamn impressed!!! Way beyond my skill level so I gotta salute you! Entertaining too, I laughed good when you showed the fuel tank and fuel pump going in for the first time - was looking for the KY in the background. Keep up the good work.
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Thanks guys! Glad to hear it’s an enjoyable build!
Several more parts showed up for the weekend! Exhaust elbows, catalytic converters, dash clock and door switch harnesses, and another electrical connector all came in! https://i.postimg.cc/9MFxnWzY/FF7-F3...4-AD58-BB9.jpg I started on this little side project since it’s been bothering me, and I know I’ll need to tackle it before the dash is buttoned up. I could have sworn that a few years back, individual components for these HVAC control panel were available, but now you can only buy a whole unit. This one works fine, but has the paper trim worn out and the knobs are missing. Instead of shelling out $100 for a new one just for a piece of paper, I’m going to refinish this one. https://i.postimg.cc/C59m5k7c/44-FBD...BD2660-ED9.jpg This one is in bad shape. https://i.postimg.cc/2jtH0NYn/4-DB5-...291-C2-EB6.jpg I have no idea where I got this from, but I had some very thin, textured plastic sheeting laying around that I knew I kept because I would need it some day. Well, that day is here! https://i.postimg.cc/BQ1my7Zk/6-D6-F...4602-F0-DB.jpg Overlaid, and cut out a template. https://i.postimg.cc/nhb3tKCz/6-DE2-...569-F11035.jpg Test fitting, it needed very minimal trimming! https://i.postimg.cc/L8tN4q1V/825552...5-D1-F5262.jpg Lens cleaned and reinstalled. https://i.postimg.cc/Gpbz4cPn/55581-...DB983-DBE4.jpg And new knobs! It looks much better than before. https://i.postimg.cc/FKGpc2Gd/529150...-CBA2075-D.jpg I also ran the door pin harness and clock harness. https://i.postimg.cc/tTT5z2mr/D87498...-A506812-F.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
A few more parts showed up later in the day! I ordered a factory stereo off of eBay. These are going for stupid money, untested. This one turns on but unknown beyond that. Time will tell if I bought a $100 paper weight. At least it’ll look pretty! The headlight switch knob and clock knobs both came in as well. I also picked up an assortment of exhaust connectors and adapters from the parts stores.
https://i.postimg.cc/L6frf8PJ/EC65-C...A04-D28382.jpg Headlight knob installed! https://i.postimg.cc/HLWKf0hM/D106-A...8-CD3-F060.jpg Clock knob installed! https://i.postimg.cc/tgrfy1KM/2-D17-...-F379640-C.jpg Time to finally start on the exhaust system! This was one of the first parts I purchased for the truck, but one of the last to go on! :lol: It’s a Hooker 2.25” true dual system, designed for this truck but meant to be a header-back system. Since this is obviously no longer a small block based platform and I’m also not utilizing headers, I’ll be making a few modifications to adapt to the manifolds, as well as adding a pair of high flow catalytic converters to the system. I sized these slightly higher than the rest of the system, at 2.5”, to provide a small additional increase in flow through them. I started with the elbows and a pair of bare flanges to make the downtubes from the manifolds. https://i.postimg.cc/ZRCQqbZK/F15-F3...686-E96-DB.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/NMSz93f8/4-B625...051-A99-C6.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/GtDSkXHW/E259-E...A13-C13-A0.jpg Test fitting alignment. I don’t think I can get that much better! https://i.postimg.cc/jqn90SZM/8-B52-...-DE1-B62-D.jpg The downtubes were also 2.5”, so the header pipes needed a reducer to go between the two. https://i.postimg.cc/PrG7tn7T/566467...-CBF61-AB6.jpg I’m slitting all of my slip joints, so I can make all of the connections with band clamps, which will allow for any future disassembly to be done with ease. https://i.postimg.cc/15pjXYx6/075070...336-F0-F54.jpg Catalytic converter done on the front. https://i.postimg.cc/P5TFwzh7/6117-E...FC765994-A.jpg Muffler outlet completed. I had to cut quite a bit out of this extension pipe due to the added cats. https://i.postimg.cc/jSc3QwSS/6-CB83...-C9749-BAE.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xdFshwHr/40-BD1...E43-C8-F94.jpg And here’s how the passenger side looks all assembled! https://i.postimg.cc/ZRBfSwFW/D34550...F41-D94-F2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/XJRs79QQ/33-C07...9608-CA8-C.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/sx5wB1Ly/BA48-D...2-D0832-CC.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/zDhd2PGM/EE7661...2-AA347429.jpg Drivers side tomorrow! |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Started on the driver’s side today! This will go a lot smoother now that I’ve figured out what’s happening on the passenger side.
https://i.postimg.cc/nV4Rq4tB/E4771-...-CB5-C5-DA.jpg Started with the reducer for the header pipe. https://i.postimg.cc/5NfPgXxG/29-FF7...6946-C25-A.jpg Set up the adapters for the catalytic converter. https://i.postimg.cc/rFgfPqsp/4-B111...9-AA98-F44.jpg Decided where the O2 sensor was going to mount. I ended up going with just after the collector on the drivers side since there was quite a bit more room. https://i.postimg.cc/RZFgr2JL/6-F9-E...25-D3-E5-D.jpg Bung installed! https://i.postimg.cc/bwB3qLQc/D03-E1...-B10756211.jpg Header pipe mounted. https://i.postimg.cc/8CfwcWHF/C7-B0-...679-BDFF61.jpg Catalytic converter and muffler mounted. https://i.postimg.cc/XJMLCJHs/639652...1-CF41-DDF.jpg Tailpipes mounted over the axle. https://i.postimg.cc/fyDv8PhX/853225...E0-EF64667.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/kGsvzynH/D53-EB...62-B7-DC57.jpg Approximate mounting once everything gets bolted together. https://i.postimg.cc/wxQ219hk/934913...8-EDFA41-F.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/m2ZwMKjW/0-D2-D...049-BD1-D3.jpg And as a final touch, I installed fire sleeve over the length of fuel line that sits nearby the pipe. It probably wouldn’t have been an issue as it’s not super close, but definitely better to be safe than sorry when dealing with fuel! https://i.postimg.cc/HsStt3vc/6-B07-...7511-B62-B.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Time for a little change of pace! I’ve been planning on running an electric fan, and been doing research on what everyone seems to like using. Ford Windstar seemed to be the pick for Square Bodies, but I wasn’t a fan (pun intended) of how it mounted or had excessive bracketry all over. After junkyard hunting and looking up endless specs on fans, I settled on a 2010-2012 Ford Fusion fan. The fan seems to fit the radiator opening well, I believe is PWM capable, is available in much newer vehicles, and it drops right in place at the bottom, just like the factory shroud. I’m not kidding! I’ll be having a few pieces of sheet metal bent up to properly fill the side and top gaps, but I feel like this will be a great fit.
https://i.postimg.cc/8C5SPp9j/8-A8-C...95550560-A.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/cHtGwDsW/BD892-...885-BA7-D9.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/0jgRfpQw/0-C76-...1-AF3-B598.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/wMhKb7yb/0-E124...BC2-C52484.jpg Here are the drawings I made for the three pieces that will be made up, if anyone is interested in producing them themselves. https://i.postimg.cc/QxsvdNWh/5-A615...-C34-CDC86.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/hPr6zF9x/F3-F16...8-F7-C45-A.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/FHHq0PZ6/C53157...ED858-C061.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/7ZtR9gtZ/4-EEE0...-E1-F06-CD.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
oh i did the 95 windstar fan, it was really easy to mount. I flipped it upside down, screwed the shroud directly to the oem mounts, and the bottom a couple of steel straps to connect it to the bottom shroud mounts.
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Alright, not a super big update this weekend as I had a few other major things going on. One, was picking up a new truck! 2012 Silverado LTZ, 1 owner, 106k miles for $5k under book.
https://i.postimg.cc/cCr9pssw/A9194-...D4-FD20-FB.jpg More parts! Exhaust clamps, door switches, and the wire for the starter switch. https://i.postimg.cc/RZpG0YMS/A4-C92...FA7-C872-F.jpg This is what I’m starting with to make the starter jumper. https://i.postimg.cc/tJzNGSSH/7-E175...3-DAB63471.jpg Cut down to a single plug. https://i.postimg.cc/MKWYmwHZ/18-A89...5-B97-B486.jpg Jumper made! https://i.postimg.cc/cJ87L49h/E09-FF...D484059-DE.jpg Door switches installed. These were the biggest pain in the ass to run the wires down to! 0/10 do not ever replace https://i.postimg.cc/j5Hzy3rJ/03-E32...F79076-B18.jpg I also made part of the jumper that will supply the Holley harness with +12v switched from the ignition wire on the engine harness, and also disconnect the fuel pump wire. https://i.postimg.cc/CM4G12N3/CAD9-F...5-D6-F9-F6.jpg I started on the clutch reservoir bracket. It had to be mounted on the side due to the older style hood hinges interfering. https://i.postimg.cc/0NmmqXjH/942-BE...C386-F22-F.jpg New mount bent up and fitted. https://i.postimg.cc/4dgc4vh4/EA2440...72-C5-D835.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/6qH4hDbT/26-C49...2753176-BD.jpg Added some side support to it. https://i.postimg.cc/pTsdNKf6/82-F3-...BEA4-E9-BF.jpg And painted! https://i.postimg.cc/brMNr8F0/B65-D4...C7257-D6-C.jpg I also made a close off plate for the original clutch rod hole. https://i.postimg.cc/TYL3SLpt/7-FC13...8-FEDAB912.jpg |
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
nice work..;)
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Great Find on the pickup. Looks like you got the same amount of snow I did, haha. Build is coming right along. Everything looks great!
|
Re: 1978 Chevy K20 longbed with nearly 500,000 miles! LS Swap begins!
Thanks guys! I’ve been enjoying the new truck and ordering new parts for that as well :lol:
Anchorage Sheet Metal was able to quickly knock out my fan shroud covers, and they turned out great! After test fitting, I did end up trimming off 1/4” from the bottom on both sides, as well as radiusing the corners and adding a bit more clearance around the hose areas. Very happy with how they fit. https://i.postimg.cc/8P2k0YtF/E2361-...0899049676.jpg Test fitting each panel. https://i.postimg.cc/2SnjRxK0/1855-F...4-FC844-FF.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/SKqSyM0k/2-CBE0...65-F3372-F.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xdR0q1YH/073-C6...F4089-B5-C.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/brG860nH/15-D84...-BEF8-D6-C.jpg Now that I’m satisfied with the fit, let’s get some color on them! https://i.postimg.cc/Bbd3R8cW/810441...51-CAC18-D.jpg While the paint was drying, I worked on a few other projects. Transferred the bolt pattern of the clutch reservoir to the new bracket, and added some U-nuts. https://i.postimg.cc/Y2VtvVcX/33-D82...A0646-C403.jpg Everything mounted up! https://i.postimg.cc/yYZscPs7/7-A9-E...4493-D06-A.jpg Now I have perfect clearance from the older style hood hinges! https://i.postimg.cc/131PHq3w/97-BCE...46-FAC5-C8.jpg This hole was also left over from the removal of the mechanical clutch rod. https://i.postimg.cc/bw0PFwZM/74866-...532-DE52-D.jpg I installed the cover I made with a bit of sealant, and it’s a perfect fit! https://i.postimg.cc/Y90w9NdK/B7497-...74-EAB5-A1.jpg Now that the fan should be going in soon, the lower radiator hose was installed. https://i.postimg.cc/sXLCZBLB/F91-E1...EB3-DE60-A.jpg With the paint now dry, I installed the covers to the shroud. https://i.postimg.cc/F15tDMNN/5-E5-D...-D871-D7-D.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/rydKZ5MP/48-BFE...0-DBD2-B13.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/RCjqkq0V/120-D1...E6-A52-FD9.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/gk8rmdwy/07-D9-...A222-DDE33.jpg Mounting complete! https://i.postimg.cc/cLcHtmBr/EB7-F5...9000-DA619.jpg Dropped the fan into the core support. https://i.postimg.cc/QMxMQTfS/1-E336...-A3-BC5-E4.jpg Fully mounted! https://i.postimg.cc/43LxBxMG/8-F12-...-F577-CA47.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/gJ1kbBmB/DBFD6-...-E0-F85565.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/2yvjkF5j/0-B008...AB778-A356.jpg Fitment at the bottom tabs. https://i.postimg.cc/Fs5sPqPY/A18811...-AC67-DF57.jpg Upper radiator hose installed! https://i.postimg.cc/65r6F0SY/531-C0...BF312322-F.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/y876KRCB/2408-D...-DD0-ACA42.jpg Steam hose installed. https://i.postimg.cc/x1gf1d9m/F69-B4...7757293115.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/KYzZkyYH/369130...60182282-D.jpg One clip installed for the upper radiator hose, I still need to pick up another. This should also hold the Terminator X battery harness once that gets installed. https://i.postimg.cc/HLhTbPcs/C84374...26-EB47055.jpg |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:18 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com