Re: Ol' Blue
 

Thank you again! I will work on the height using that information.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Raven, thank you for the help. It appears that if the front is lowered 5: and the back 4", and I go with 235/70R15 tires, the front should be about 11" off the ground and the rear 12". I think that will work.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

no biggie, glad I could help
its kinda funny how the GM specs are laid out. there is the standard height and there is the height they recommend in order to carry max payload. dunno what a fella could do to make the old truck taller unless there were maybe a partial load in it or something.
anyway, maybe check that spec out yourself and see if you can make heads or tails of it. if you look in the index of the 56 truck booklet you can find the body dimensions for the truck.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Well, having decided on front and rear suspension, I finally got to start working on the frame, removing the stuff it won't be needing.

I have used a Rotocut bit, grinders and even an "All-Wrench", but these old rusty rivets are a PAIN to get out. It took almost 2 days to get the front spring perches and the other things riveted to the frame off, and I'm only back to the crossmember behind the rear cab mounts.

I was going to leave the tranny crossmember until I get the new IFS installed, and then take it out.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e66c0939_z.jpgIMG_1485 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

That's the complaining portion of this post.

The good news is that I only have a few more rivets to get out, and the rear spring perches are included in that, and it'll be ready to get blasted or dipped. I'm going to talk to the shop that dips cars and see what they say about doing frames, and talk to another guy who media blasts frames to see which way I want to go. If anyone has some experience with this, please let me know.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

I got the frame sandblasted to get the decades of gunk off of it. I got my TCI MII front suspension, and started on the frame. I have welded up some small holes where they used a cutting torch to take off a trailer hitch, I think. Then I started reading the instructions for the MII front end. I have measured and checked level until I'm absolutely crosseyed!

So today I trimmed the boxing plates to fit as instructed, and welded them in.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...385ce9f9_z.jpgIMG_1506 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I finished the welds so it looks smooth.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...18dfc4e5_z.jpgIMG_1507 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So, boxing plates are done, the frame is cut out on the bottom so the crossmember will slide up into place, and it has been test fit at least once.

Installing the crossmember will be a job for another day.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Are you going to keep the factory front crossmember? I've seen it done both ways.. I took mine out and cut that lower frame excess flush.

If it won't interfere I suppose it's a non-issue

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Dave, I got the crossmember tacked in today. I'm still checking all the angles. In answer to your question, as soon as I can I plan to take it out. I'll look at what I have then, but I've been thinking I'd do the same as you, and make the frame look a little better under there.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

if you remove the cross member maybe throw a length of angle or tubing of some sort across the rails behind the bumper mounts before you cut it out. that way the rad support will have something to keep the dimension correct other than the front bumper. maybe less vibration on the bumper when driving as well. just a thought.
when you boxed the frame what method did you go with? cut the box plate thanks same height as the frame and grind an angle on the edges for the weld to penetrate into, then grind the weld down smooth to match the frame height? cut the boxing plates slightly smaller in height than the frame so the weld made up the difference in height? space the boxing plate off the frame the thickness of the plate and then weld into the cavity so the plate is actually a little wider than the frame in that spot? curious because I did full length boxing plates on a task force and opted for the "cut the plate the height of the inside of the original frame" and then ground the welds down after. that left a good space for the weld to sit even after grinding the area smooth.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Raven, I've been thinking about a support bar up front as you suggest. I think I'll be doing that.

The boxing plate was ground down to where the top was about 1/8 below the frame rail. I welded it there and then ground it over to a smooth corner. The bottom sat on top of the lower part of the frame rail. I welded it to that lip as the instructions said.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Boxing plate should be good and strong then. I only asked because I've seen some that were cut the same height as the frame and welded in with only a small bevel on the edge for the weld but by the time the weld is ground smooth there isn't much actually holding the plate to the frame.
Keep posting up your progress, it's good to see forward momentum. It keeps us inspired.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Nicely done welding. I'll throw my opinion in, for what it's worth. I would keep the original cross member if you could. As Dennis pointed out, for the radiator support, but also for support across the front of the frame in general.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

x2 for adding some bracing. I made a new crossmember that bolted in the holes from the old shackle mounts. its also a popular spot to just weld a tube between those larger holes.

I've even seen them weld the tube as a new front crossmember, THEN use that tube to hold one of those 3 piece splined sway bars!

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Thanks guys. I am going to add a new 3/8" tube across the front where the front shackles used to be, some kits even come with that. I was thinking about welding it in, but I think I might bolt it in, just have to give it some more thought.

I have had the dickens of a time with keeping everything level. It seems that just sitting there, things will move. I know there is a small difference in the two sides front to rear, but the new crossmember itself will be level in the middle, but higher on one side than the other. then I'll check the rake, trying to hold 2 degrees fall to the front and I swear where I put the electric level will change the rake. I pulled a string line from front to rear to see if the rails were warped, but I can't find it. Ok, enough complaining for one day.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Ok, after a LOT of checking level, here is what I have:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...15d2c179_z.jpgIMG_1514 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

TCI Engineering crossmember tacked in place. The truck frame rails are 2 degrees down rear to front on the driver's side, and 3 degrees down on the rider's side. The frame is level side to side at the radiator support, the old crossmember and at the rear. If you look at the crossmember you can see the lower A-arms in place, upside down, as the instructions said to do it. The pipe the bolt goes through at the end of the crossmember is 0 degrees on both sides, and the middle of the crossmember is at 0 degrees front to rear as instructed and the new crossmember is 0 degrees side to side.

So, after reading the instructions over and over, and watching the one YouTube video over and over again, I think that is right.

Then I put a plumb bob in the back of the truck, centered and measured from the grease fitting that is on the top side right now since the A-arms are upside down as instructed, and the measurement from each to the plumb bob is within 1/16"!

I'm going to weld it in place next time I fire up the welder.

If you look to the front of the frame, you may make out the brace I'm building to go there. It is in front of the old crossmember, and just about 2" in front of the front rivet on the radiator mount. I found some old brackets from one of the frames and it had the right bend, so I drilled 4 holes in them and mounted them to the old front shackle holes. I am using the old spare tire crossmember for the front, then welding a piece of 1/4 x 1 x 2 square tubing to that spare tire carrier, then I'm welding a piece of 3/8 x 1 tubing to the top of the first tube. I think the idea is to keep the frame from spreading and I think that should do it, since the brackets going to be bolted to the frame are the same thickness as the frame.

Anyway, feels good to get that crossmember leveled like the instruction say, now to weld it!

Re: Ol' Blue
 

thats a load off, eh?
remember to do short welds so the frame doesn't heat up and bend on you.
one other thing to think about, once that job is done, is how you will make the trans cross member. since the old rear engine cross member is gone the frame will have a little more give to it in the area where the cab mounts are. this can cause the cab mounts to spread or narrow and that will give you a big headache and can cause cracking of the cab metal if it happens and goes unchecked

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Thanks Raven, and yes, it is.

One problem at a time. I have a tranny cross member from TCI that bolts in. I think I'm going to check widths and then drill holes for the tranny support. That will be after I get an engine/tranny to test fit.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Good news/bad news. The wife wanted a Cameo, and after looking into it, it was going to be a daunting task to get all the parts to change the 57 into a Cameo, especially with all the new parts for the step side that wouldn't be used, like the entire step side bed.

Then my luck changed, and last week a guy about an hour from me was selling the Cameo that his father-in-law had bought from his brother who had bought it new in 1955! Yes, a 2-owner truck.

The truck was driven to a shop to be painted 3 years ago. Unfortunately, Dad passed away and no one in the family wanted to finish the truck. Since the truck has sat for so long, some parts mysteriously disappeared, most importantly the entire tailgate. My buddy just bought the entire assembly, so I know it's available. However, there are NO rust holes, and only moderate surface rust on the underside, and the odometer shows 7,642 miles, which I know can't be right, but the truck is really solid.

So as of today, wish me well selling the 54 and the 57 while I concentrate on the 55 Cameo.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1872d27b_z.jpgIMG_E1573 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e87cf011_z.jpgSISV1591 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...521dd049_z.jpgTNSX7217 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The cowl vent was gone as was the hood latch, one hood hinge, and the piece that goes over the grill. Other than that, it's all there!

I started working on the center bumper piece tonight, trying to get that hinge to loosen up a little. I'm not sure how the two studs on it secure it, but I'm sure someone on here does and will share a picture.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

nice!

https://media2.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2...WWf6/giphy.gif

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Thanks, and yes it did.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

and, even a hood ornament! they are usually gone long ago.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Yep, just wish they hadn't lost the tailgate.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Nice find!! It looks like it is working out for you. Enjoy it. Steve

Re: Ol' Blue
 

well, worst case scenario you can always fab a custom gate with the latch style you like etc.
there is one in this link that I like, it looks more angled than a stock one, but then again I haven't seen a stock one in years, but it is a personal preference thing. the rer truck.

https://www.motortrend.com/features/...-pickup-truck/

Re: Ol' Blue
 

I think the cameo is based on a stock bed with fiberglass sides instead of step side fenders. possibly a stock step side tailgate will fit and could be re-sheeted with flat sheet that has a design rolled in to your preference.
you know you can do it.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

if you have the tailgate from your 57 you could test fit that to see if it fits the cameo.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Raven, that is one cool tailgate!

I have found a couple of places that sell new tailgate components, the outer skin, the steel inner and the latches, hinges, etc. One is made here in the USA, and I have a buddy who just ordered one for his truck, so I'll get to see it before I buy it. So, I think I'm good on the tailgate, just wish it was all original.

Although, I admit I do like that one in the magazine article.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...af863585_z.jpgIMG_1656 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Started taking the Cameo apart. All the bolts are rusted, as to be expected. I spent all day getting the remaining bed wood out, leaving the side rails bolted to the crossmembers.

HOW do you get those bolts out without damaging the sides? The side rails are straight and not rusted through and so I'd like to keep them. However, I can't drill the bolts out, they are too rusted to get the nut to come off, but not rusted enough to just break them, and that brings me to grinding them, but even the small air grinder with a cut off wheel is a little too close to the side.

Ideas?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4f4cbc4b_z.jpgIMG_1659 - Copy by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Also, there are two things on each side, front and back, they look like an L shaped U channel that is flush with the top of the frame. If you look close at the picture, just behind the crossmember, and I think you can make it out. There is one on each side, and one more on each side at the next crossmember. What are they for and do I need them?

Thanks.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

you best take some better pics of the mysterios brackets.
have you looked in the factory assembly manual? free download from the trifive site. lots of info on how stuff was assembled.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

lots of penetrating lube, continued application over a few days ... vice grips on the bolt head, or best bet to grinder in a flat-head screw driver slot. 2 person job, one with an impact driver on the nut ... one with a huge screw driver with a box wrench on it for added holding. person on the screw driver should be LEANING on it then let the impact rip!

Re: Ol' Blue
 

those frame brackets are usually associated with overload springs. on this style there is a set of leafs added above the regular springs. they don't attach to spring hangers but simply sit there above the regular spring stack. when a load is applied heavy enough to lower the truck enough, that stack of overload leaves will bottom against the frame brackets and start to take some weight
these sites has a pic if you scroll down just a little
https://www.torklift.com/rv/stableload
https://mrtrailer.com/psrsuspension.htm

Re: Ol' Blue
 

you're not likely gonna need the brackets or the extra leaf.
the way a normal leaf spring works is they may have a super thick lower leaf that doesn't touch the rest really unless there is a big load applied and then that becomes an overload leaf and helps hold the extra weight by not allowing the lighter leaves above it to bend so much. the other method uses a stack of leaves added above the original stack with either frame brackets to rub against when needed or else the ends of those overload springs are tied to the lower set of springs to aid in carrying the load. you could check the factory assembly manual and see the whole set up if you wanted.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Thanks Raven, those links helped me understand how they work.

I will not be using them.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

the assembly manual shows the overload springs and the frame brackets in section 5 sheet 4, however it is for a larger truck. you get the idea though.
the factory assembly manual, lots of guys call it the FOM, also has sheets on how the cameo bed and tailgate got together, if you're looking.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

yeah, thats what I thought, not needed for what you will be usingthe truck for. as a side note, if the spring pins and bushings are worn out, and considering the springs are pretty old and may fail when getting used again, there are builds on here that use spring hangers and springs from newer trucks that have rubber bushings in the spring eyelets. new frame brackets are available from Dormer and springs can be had at any local parts supplier. since the rear axle will likely be geared pretty low lots of builds replace the whole set up. will you be going with a lowered truck and air bags, leaf springs, coils, any plans?

Re: Ol' Blue
 

I installed the TCI front end kit with coil overs and on back I went with their leaf spring kit which replaced everything and dropped the rear a little. I saw a picture of that set up and liked the way the truck looked. I had the frame and was already working on it when we got the Cameo, so now I have a completely stock 55 frame, with stock 6, 3 speed on the column, etc.

I still have the 57 with a C10 frame under it that has been bagged, so I may put the 55 frame under it. I don't know yet.

You are correct in that the Cameo certainly won't need the overloads!

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Another question:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...de82b55c_z.jpgIMG_1692 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
There is a "slit" in the steel part of the door between the red and white paint, just above the door panel bolt hole. It is on both doors. Any idea what it is for?

Re: Ol' Blue
 

maybe, since it is right above a nut insert, it was something to do with an arm rest? the arm rest possibly had a flange on it that fit into the slot and then a bolt was installed through the arm rest into that nut insert?
a bigger pic that shows the loacation better may help. hard to tell where exactly on the door that is located.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

assembly manual, sect 1 sheet 77 shows the door panel and arm rest but I dont see any slots in the door anywhere like that. possibly an owner installed option?

Re: Ol' Blue
 

Thanks Raven. Good thought.

Re: Ol' Blue
 

the slot appears to be a series of linked holes drilled in. they are not in a straight line, really, like a factory slot would be. kinda like a slot made by a previous owner for some reason.