Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

So Saturday morning I wanted to get a few items checked off the list to help get the ball rolling a little faster. The first order was to get the bed off of the truck and test out the gantry lift I built for the first time. To do that I needed to get a few parts I have been storing in the bed for the Devil Cowboy out and put away for another day.

The reasons for removing the bed are many. First, the time frame to get this truck done and back to Bestview is important to me. Second, this bed is savable but not on this project. Many areas have thick layers of filler, and four of the six stake pockets are ripped up. Also, the floor has a few holes to patch and it is wavey. Third, I have a very nice bed I picked up a couple of years ago that someone cut a truck frame in half and made into a trailer. This decision will save me about three weeks of work on the bed. Fourth, it needs to come off anyway so I can do some work on the back of the cab so it can be painted

After removing the bed I will break the bed down into separate parts and tackle the refurbishment on that bed another day. I have a few other beds that I have broken down and saved all the parts so it is possible I could assemble a mix of bed parts to make a good one.

Next up will be lifting the cab up so I can remove the body lift pucks and install the new rubber mounts. Prepping the interior to get it ready for medium blue paint.

Pic 1-Bed coming off with the help of the gantry lift
Pic 2-Different view of the bed being lifted off
Pic 3-The body lift puck that is getting tossed
Pic 4-Back of cab drinker side, with a small hole to patch
Pic 5-Back of cab captain side, larger hole to patch

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

So Sunday morning I raised the cab and got the body lift out and set the cab back down in the same location on 4x4 timber blocks that had in the shop. Did some cleaning up in the shop from the mess I made on Saturday. then pushed the truck into the driveway and did an inside and outside power wash. Got another few pounds of dirt off of the truck and then rolled it in for the day.

Monday I was about attacking the cab issues that needed welding. At this point I knew there was a small hole on the drinker's side of the cab about midway, and also another one slightly larger on the captain's side. Also knew there was one on top of the roof that was from an old CB radio antenna. So I started to strip down the drinker side back corner around the hole area and I knew I had to work my way up following the filler I could see. I could tell there was going to be a surprise or two so I marched forward.

As you can see in the pictures there was a boatload more damage that had been covered up with filler. It looks like the back of the cab had maybe a camper or something in the bed that hit it hard and created a few dents and a crease. Glad I took it down to metal to find the issue. Got the small hole patched up and sanded down.

Pic 1-Grinding out the filler to expose the issue
Pic 2-Exposing the ugly
Pic 3-Took it all the way down since there is other areas that will need some work
Pic 4-Cut out a small patch for the hole
Pic 5-All welded in and hit with 80 grit on a small air sander

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

After that, I moved over to the Captain's side to expose a little more of the same. I noticed when I was going over the cab that the area by the gas fill had some filler and it was cracked. Also knew that there was a larger hole in about the same location as the other side that would need some work.

Once I got into removing the filler under the gas cap area I found a few holes and a very deep pushed-in dent. I worked the dent from the other side with an attachment I put on my air hammer. Go slow and get it to work the dent up the the proper area. After I got the dent there I noticed the metal was very thin and stretched. So I did a series of spot welds in a circle pattern work from the outer side to the inside of the circle. This helped to shrink the metal in and also in adding more material for strength.

Cut out a patch for the hole and got that welded in. Then went over both areas with 60 grit on an air sander. Both areas are ready for a little skim coat of filler now. There are a few more dents on the side that I will get to work on another day with a dolly and hammer.


Pic 1 -Exposing the surprise under the gas cap area
Pic 2 -Getting backside stripped down so I can get to welding
Pic 3 -Made a patch for odd shaped hole, being held on with a strong magnet on the other side
Pic 4 -Gas cap area expose, nice dent and a few holes to be filled
Pic 5 -Gas cap area all welded up and knocked down with 60 grit on air sander

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

The last one for the evening was attacking the CB radio hole on the top of the roof near the back edge. First I had to remove a rubber stopper with caulking in the hole. Then clean up the area with 60 grit on an air sander. The hole was in worse shape than I thought. After cleaning it up the area it looks to me that someone hammered down the area around the hole to get it closer to the inside metal liner so they could get the nut on the CB radio antenna to tighten down. When I say hammered down, I mean they messed it up good.

Anyway I played around with the metal for a few minutes and I could see there was no way to straighten it up. So the plan I came up with was to cut out as little as possible. This would first allow me to fix the inside layer hole from inside the roof, then cut a patch for the outside roof.

I took a roll of masking tape and the bad metal area fit inside so I traced a circle on the roof and started to cut it out with a grinder. By the time I got all the cuts done, I had a stop sign shape instead of a circle. I grabbed another air tool with a carbide bit on it to finish grinding away metal to get to the circle I traced. Before I started to grind I thought what the heck I can just make a piece to fit and not have to grind more off. So I placed a few pieces of tape over the hole and did a pencil rubbing of the outline of cuts and marked it with an arrow and the word top. Cut it out and then do a little fine-tuning with air sander on the templated part. Put it on the roof with two strong magnets and began spot welding slowly, skipping around the shape and from time to time cooling off with an air hose. Only had one small area that I had to put a stud on the out side of roof and pull that metal up the to piece I was welding.

Super happy that it turned out good and will need just a small skim coat of filler to finish it off. I have warped a roof before when I was working the Idaho Edition truck. Did not want to go down that road again, especially on a cab-light roof. Win Win.

Pic 1 -Hole in roof with cork removed
Pic 2 -Area cleaned up, a metal straight edge to show how far down it is
Pic 3 -Patch for the inside
Pic 4 -Area to be patched with odd shaped metal
Pic 5 -After welding and knocking down with 60 grit on air grinder

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Very nice, I like how you come up with practical solutions to setbacks!

Greg

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Started working on the drinker side rear of the cab where the big crease was. First I started inside the cab where I could see part of the crease before the double wall metal covered up the rest of it. Tried a few different ways to work the metal with a hammer and dolly and that just was not cutting it or getting the crease to move much. Then I remembered that I have a few attachments that go on a hammer and if I go slow and throttle it down a bit I might be able to get this to move in the right direction. That seemed to do the trick on the lower half of the crease. So now I need to address the rest of the crease on the upper half that is where the metal has the additional skin on the inside of the cab around the window.

I used a stud gun and the Steck Lever to pull on the metal on both sides of the crease while I beat on the crease with an autobody hammer. That really helped get the metal moving. Then I took a metal straight edge and kept checking the area and pounding with a slapping spoon and a shrinking hammer. Got the area pretty close so that it would take a thin layer of filler to get it right for paint.

Went over the other six or seven areas on the backside corner of the cab and got them worked out good enough for filler. All of these areas were not big dents they were just too deep for filler. Most of this work on the corner of the cab took about two hours to get it into filler and rough sanded with an air board with 36 grit.

Pic 1-Skim coat on top of roof
Pic 2-Two small holes that need to be addressed, will have to remove one of the lights to get some backing underneath the hole so it can get hammered downward since it is peaked right now.
Pic 3-A look from inside where the crease is
Pic 4-Doing some stud pulling on the upper side of the crease
Pic 5-First round of filler

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Worked on putting another skim coat in a few areas that needed to be tapped down on the drinker side. Also got the first coat on the captain's side after doing some dolly and hammer work. Only had to put in two stud pins and pull with the Steck lever. I also took another 30 minutes or so to strip the red primer off the back of the cab. That revealed the most medium blue in one spot so far.

Proceeded to take out the back window so I could get the rest of the cab stripped down. No big surprises, a little surface rust and pitting in the bottom of the window. That will clean up just fine with a wire wheel and treat with some converter to be safe. Then moved up to the top of the roof to finish stripping off the surface rust. Only found two little spots that will need some filler where the two small holes are forward on the roof by the cab lights in the center.

Pic 1 -Filler skim coat on the drinker side
Pic 2 -First coat of filler on the Captain side
Pic 3 -Roof being stripped of surface rust with mesh 80 grit on electric DA
Pic 4 -Surface rust in the lower rear window frame
Pic 5 -Upper window frame is nice and clean

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Today's plan was to clean up and treat the back window that was removed, remove the front windshield, strip all the silicone caulking around the doors, and start on the interior paint stripping.

Started with wire wheeling the rear window channel, then painting on with a brush some Rustoleum rust reformer. Got that done and did not have any areas that were rusted through or that needed any attention as far as metalwork. After that, I moved on to the outer cab door frame where the door shuts against it and the rubber seal goes. When I pulled off the rubber a few days ago I could see that someone used a large portion of silicone caulking to glue on the rubber gaskets. I have had to clean this area up before and knew it could be time-consuming and make a mess. I started the process by using a fresh blade on a razor knife and cut off and peeled back as much as possible. Then to finish it off I used a brass wire wheel on a drill to finish exposing the channel. Found a few areas that will need to be cut out and replaced with new metal.

At the front top of the Captain's side door frame, it looks like someone had drilled through the post and into the cab to mount a spotlight. This area will need to be repaired with some new metal and bodywork. Also will need to cut a few sections on the the same side at the bottom and do some metal work.

Pic 1 -Treated area of the back window after the rust reformer converts it to metal
Pic 2 -Pile of silicone from Captain's side
Pic 3 -Hole where the spotlight was
Pic 4 -Hole on the inside channel
Pic 5 -Hole to repair on door rim of rocker

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Nice work, hopefully the holes stop showing up soon !
What is your plan for paint ?
Single stage ?
Are you going all the way with paint, or are you going to send it out ?

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

The next thing up was removing the front windshield so I could do the upper metalwork on the frame and besides that, the windshield was already cracked in a few places and needed to come out for paint and replacement. After a few minutes of cutting loose the inner rubber seal and a plastic wedge, I have the windshield was out. There was a bunch of debris under the rubber lying in the channel and my first thought was I had a rotted window frame. After cleaning up the area with a wire wheel on a drill, I was surprised to find that the frame was in good shape. However, there were a few spots where someone used liquid nails to possibly seal a leak or two. That was a new one for me.

So after that, I had good access to start some sanding on the interior that had been rattle-canned black with a mix of dog hair, dirt particles, and also throw in a few bugs here and there. This Cheyenne Super deserves more than that, so we march on and get this ready for a fresh coat of medium blue. I can't say I am fond of sanding down an interior. It has awkward shapes and surfaces, hard to sand over your head like the ceiling area and did I say awkward? Also got the steering column removed so it will be easier to shoot the paint and besides it is getting a fresh factory automatic tilt column installed.

After I get the interior finished sanding down and a little more metalwork we should be heading in the other direction and getting ready to finish up and bodywork and get ready for paint. I am shooting to have that ready in the next week or so.

Pic 1 -Windshield frame
Pic 2 -Windshield frame
Pic 3 -Circled in red is some of the liquid nails
Pic 4 -Interior sanding progress
Pic 5 -Interior sanding progress

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Nice work, hopefully the holes stop showing up soon !
Thanks Eric and I hope also.

What is your plan for paint ?
I have already bought the paint at the local Napa Auto paint store here in Meridian Idaho. That is where I had the dark blue matched from the radio delete plate you sent, the smaller quart can is the dark blue. The larger can is the medium blue, and thanks again for helping out!

Single stage ?
Yes, it is a single stage "Utech" by AkzoNobel. I have used this paint on a few trucks and really like how it sprays and the cost is not so bad. The DTM primer is black.

Are you going all the way with paint, or are you going to send it out ?
Yes I will do all the paintwork here in the garage

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Took two days of rest and am now back at it. Decided to attack the last of the rust repair and metal work hopefully on the cab. I have one small spot on the door trim lip to address and a small area of the Captain's side kicker panel at the bottom.

Had a few challenges with the odd shapes and angles on this one. Then I had my welding wire issues on my new machine jamming up where it feeds to the gun on the inside. So what should have been an hour's worth of work to tackle these few turned into three to four hours. I guess it is part of the kicking and screaming these old trucks do when you are trying to bring them around.

Hopefully, after a few adjustments, I can get through the last of the metal work on the cab and finish up the last round of sanding filler on the back and corners of the cab. If it fights back today I have a new welding hose inner sleeve made for the .023 wire I am using. The new machine inner sleeve was for .030 and .035 wire.

Pic 1 -Hole in the cab to be repaired
Pic 2 -Repaired and ground down
Pic 3 -Holding the cut piece with tape, it would not set right with the magnet
Pic 4 -Repaired and ground down
Pic 5 -The mess after a few hours of work

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Got the mess cleaned up this morning and went after the lower kick panel and door rubber trim rust. The kick panel template and the piece that is cut out and ready to go is about a half inch up higher into good metal, so that should last a minute. The lower door trim area had some waves in it and looked to be about three small holes to cut out and patch.

Well after working the waves out I found that almost the whole piece would need to be fabricated and metal worked. Busted out the metal brake and some tools and whipped one out.

Everything is ready to go so hopefully later today I can get to cutting, welding, and grinding again.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Was able to get out at lunch break and sand down some of the existing filler on the cab. Found a few more spots that needed filler. Also found a few low spots so round three on filler adding. Hope to get it sanded out this evening and get back on the metal repair.

Pic 1 -Received a delivery today from one of Bestview's sources, freshly printed NL2 gas tank switch stickers
Pic 2 -Filler top of the cab
Pic 3 -Filler where the metal repair was done
Pic 4 -Extra filler on the back of the cab
Pic 5 -1972 K10 that I purchased a few days ago and is being shipped to Idaho now. Original running driving K10 with 4-speed transmission, tow hooks and grill guard, 551 paint code, manual throttle, and a bunch of other nice items on the SPID.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Saturday morning I decided to get the last of the glaze coat on the filler on the back of the cab. Put a few more skim coats of filler in the interior and the two small screw holes I welded up on the roof next to the cab lights. Moved onto the lower Captain's side door rubber trim that I formed a few days ago. Got it all fitted and welded in without any issues. Then gave the Drinker's side upper rocker the last skim coat of the body 3M body glaze.

Then I worked on getting the inner kick panel lower section cut out prepped and welded in. While I was welding the lower section it started a small smoldering fire in the firewall kick panel area where the vented air comes out. Grabbed a bucket of water and dumped down the top of the cowl on the Captain's side and that put it out and also made a nice mess everywhere. So I decided to finish up the welding while it was still wet on the inside, then pushed the truck into the driveway to give it a good bath with the power washer. Mopped up all the water on the floor and called it a day.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Sunday was getting after the Captian's side upper rocker area, addressing the welds, and all of the area to be prepped for filler. I don't think I have ever seen a rocker with such deep spot welds toward the front and just rough metalwork. Anyway, I addressed the issues with a little hammer work and some grinding. Then after it was all cleaned up I applied a coat of filler, sanded then a few swipes of glaze.

Moved up to the upper windshield frame where I filled the large hole from a previous spotlight installation. Got that all sanded down and looking good for primer. Wrapped up by working the inner upper door trim frame with some filler after grinding down all the welding to fix the holes also from spotlight install. Finished up with a coat of body glaze where I had a few deep scratches and a few pin holes.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Coming along - Great work!

Do you and Kenny plan on leaving the
'Double' Bully steps on it ?

I've got those on my lifted truck,
They are very functional and look good on these trucks
In my opinion

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Tease alert lol , jim is going to put one on each side instead of the two on one side :metal:

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Thanks Eric! We are going to keep them, just move one over to the other side.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Another side project I had to wrap up over the weekend was to modify the gantry I built last February for removing cabs and beds on these trucks. I built it out of scrap 2" thick heavy wall tubing. It was built in sections with thick wall 1 3/4 tubing sleeves so I could break it down and store it away when not in use. The only thing I had to purchase was the hand winches that were rated at 800 lbs. each, and a couple of pulleys for the metal cable. So I had about $100 into the project.

Well, the first time I used it was to pull the bed off of this truck and it worked, but not flawless. One of the winches kept jamming at the cog wheel and I had to smack it a few times with a hammer to get it to work while taking off the bed. Then when I tried to remove the cab the other side started doing the same thing. I believe the winches were not of good quality so I did some research to find better-made hand winches for the gantry. After doing all the research the winches were going to cost more than an electric winch rated at 3500 lbs., so I decided to modify the design and make it work with a removable electric winch.

I had already had some items for the winch, a few extra pulleys, and a female receiver hitch which will make it removable. It took me about an hour and a half to put it all together, weld it up, and test it. We now have a portable, breakdown gantry that can roll around and handle the task with ease. I also use this as a paint tree to hang parts from when painting.

Pic 1 -Original manual gantry
Pic 2 -Electric 3500 lbs. winch added
Pic 3 -Side view of receiver hitch to make it removable
Pic 4 -A battery tray that lifts off when not in use, had to do this so I do not have to pick up the battery every time I want to move the gantry.
Pic 5 -Gantry all hooked up and working

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Been working on getting all the areas with filler sealed off and scratches from sandpaper filled. Little by little the old Devil Cowboy is starting to come around. Was able to get the corner of the cab by the gas tank looking good and both rocker areas. Had one area on the other corner that showed up after a light coat of primer.

Also a couple of weeks ago I was able to pick up the TH350 transmission and the NP205 that were rebuilt by a local shop. Need to find out how to tackle the sheared of front axle splines. I have never done that repair, so I will be digging into the research and getting parts ordered when I get that figured out.

Pic 1 - Drivers rocker
Pic 2 - Passenger Rocker
Pic 3 - Cab corner
Pic 4 - Rebuilt transmission and transfer case
Pic 5 -Sheard off axle shaft inner and outer damaged

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

The first round of welding, dent pulling, and working body filler was done on the outside of the cab. Knocked it all down after a light coat of gray filer primer to seal up the filler and help expose what I missed. Had about another dozen places that needed to be addressed and a few places that I found that still had a few high spots. Lots of sanding, then more sanding and sand again. You all know the routine if you have done any bodywork to get ready for paint.

Here are a few pictures of some of that process and again it is mostly a boatload of sanding. Also spent a bunch of time fixing door rubber trim pieces that were rotted away, and getting the rockers back into shape. Re-doing a few places on the back of the cab and hitting the top of the cab with some glaze to fill a few scratches and pinholes.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

While I have been doing sanding on the cab, doors, and other parts of the truck I have to divert to other items on the truck to give myself a break. Here are a few items I have also been diving into, some fun and some a learning experience.

First off I purchased a set of used 3/4 ton hubcaps that were in good shape but rusty. Wanted to try my hand at getting rid of the rust using rust remover chemicals. Then cutting and rolling over the front hubcaps so that they will fit over the hubs in front. If it all works out it should go good with the truck. For the chemical that I tried on one of the hubcaps which was Rustoleum Rust Dissolver spray gel. It worked well and looks to be a winner.

Pic 1 -One rusty hubcap
Pic 2 -Sprayed the cap with the gel and wrapped with painter's plastic
Pic 3 -Most of the rust is gone after one round of treatment


The other thing I needed to tackle was the cab lights. I was not sure that they even worked, what shape the wiring harness was in and the fixtures did not look so good after inspection. Since I have never worked on or owned a cab light truck it was a new experience. Fought with getting the rubber part separated from the fixture for a bit. Then figured out it was better to probe down the side of the fixture and press in the pin so the electrical wire could slide out the back. After that I pulled both ways to try and inspect the wire as best I could and saw a few areas that needed to be repaired before they would work again. So I moved forward with a plan to pull the harness out, while pulling it out I attached string to each cab light harness. Numbered them accordingly and pulled the harness out of the truck so I could build a new one and document the way it is built for future reference.

Pic 4 -Harness all pulled out and string in place
Pic 5 -One area of the wire that must have been eaten up by a mouse.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Here are a few more of the areas with some SEM black filler primer after going over the areas a few times. Just wrapping up a few more small items on the outside of the cab. Then moving on to the four or five items that need to be addressed inside the cab before I can get this into primer and paint.

Also fixed a grill guard that was bent up on one of the two K10 trucks I bought out of Montana. That was a quick thirty-minute repair with a piece of 3/8 flat bar stock. Now it is straight and squared up to the grill, like the other side. Now it just needs to patina a little to match the rest.

I had to make a trip back to the transmission/transfer case shop to pick up the proper shifting part that goes on the side of the TH350 for a 72 4x4. While I was there he had my transfer case which I also dropped off to get rebuilt, and had JB Customs twin sticks installed. This transfer case is for my Idaho Edition truck. Now the truck will not have a leaking transfer case and it gives me 2WD high and low as well as 4WD high and low.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Here is the bottom of the door (see pict 1) that was in bad shape with lots of rust areas and dents. looking pretty good to move forward with it. Next thing I need to do with the door is remove the insides and get a couple coats of filler primer on it. This is the door from the driver's side. Has some rust that showed up while stripping the old paint off. Both bottom corners will need some metal repair and over all about six or seven areas on exterior side that need to be addressed. Two of them were some pretty good-sized dents located in the center of the door.

After about an hour of stripping the door down I started to mess with the large dents in the center of the door. Started with the one that was in the lower section below the lower body line. This metal has some curvature to it so checking the dent with a metal straight edge horizontal to the body line. Used the spot welder gun to lay a few studs in the area and pull, and adjust with Steck Lever and tapping with a hammer. The one in the center of the door was down about 3/8" in center and had a high spot crowned toward the top. I also noticed some tin canning happening, so I knew somehow this is going to need some shrinking. Started with the stud gun and pulled a few studs up to get things into the ballpark. Then went after the high spot with a slapping spoon and large body hammer. things were starting to look better but we still had some oil canning. Grabbed the stud gun and without inserting studs I pulled the trigger in about a dozen or so places in a circular pattern. The heat from the stud gun seem to shrink up the metal a bit and really help with the oil canning.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Went after the Captain's side door this morning to get a few more of the dents pulled into place and address the rust areas in both bottom corners. Started by pulling up a few more areas in the middle of the door so I would not need much filler. Filler areas were closer to 32nd of an inch or so in some places. Then I lightly spot-sprayed one area where I suspected I might have a few high crowning spots, then blocked over the top of it to reveal the issues. Tapped a few down and moved on to the rust repair.

The rust repair was two small areas in both corners that revealed themselves when I was stripping the doors of old paint. Worked on cutting them out with a small air grinder with a cut-off wheel. Then cleaned and treated inside with a few brush strokes of Ospho. Ran some orange masking tape over the areas and did a pencil rubbing to get the shapes needed for repair. Moved those over to the new sheet metal and got them cut out and fitted. Held them down with strong magnets and spot-welded them in. Knocked down the welds with a flap disk on a grinder, finished up with 80 grit on 3" air angle grinder then followed up with the DA sander.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

While I was working on the door I pulled out a folding plastic table and laid out the cab light harness for dissection. After looking at how it was constructed I moved forward with documenting and making a few sets. The first thing was to tape a measuring tape the length of the table so it would be easy to get all the right numbers while only having to hold onto the wire. Then draw up a little diagram with all the wire lengths.

Pulled out some brown and blue 12 gauge wire that I had in the garage along with a few tools to do the job and get after it in between filler drying on the door and sanding.

See (picture 4) for a diagram of the lengths used to build the harness.

I first cut all of the wire to lengths that I pre-measured. Striped the ends of the first three wires and twisted them together. Then striped the wires on the other three wires and twisted them together. Inserted both twisted ends into a heat shrink solder tube, and heated it with a heat gun until all solder was dispersed. Then slide over a large red heat shrink tube and shrink it down tight. Then slide another tighter-fitting black heat shrink over the red and heat shrink it down. When all was done with both colors I used electrical tape in a few areas to bind them together as one harness like the factory harness was.

I found a kit on Amazon that has LED lights, new fixtures, lens and the proper 1313A rubber gasket to freshen up the cab lights.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Blown away by how these new harnesses came out and have a feeling all trucks leaving this place will have them lol awesome work Jim :metal:

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Blown away by how these new harnesses came out and have a feeling all trucks leaving this place will have them lol awesome work Jim :metal:

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Looks great Jim! Love the color combo on your latest truck find!
Greg

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Here are a few pictures of the driver's door exterior side being finished off with filler and some primer to find a few low spots. Luckily the filler work did not take up too much time to get it looking good and straight, very happy with how that turned out.

While I was working on the door I decided to get the front hubcaps that I have been removing rust from cut out to go over the locking hubs. Went with the 4.5-inch hole saw so that it will clear the Spicer hubs when they are changed out.

Pict 1 - Driver's door primer over filler to check for high or low spots
Pict 2 - One more skim coat of filler to get a couple of low spots
Pict 3 - First hubcap cutout to fit Spicer hub
Pict 4 - Tossed it on the front axle to see how it looks

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Flipped the door over and started to investigate what needed to be fixed besides dings and dents. Found a few items that will need some attention before I can move on to the filler work.

-lower door rust that is fixable in three locations
-someone welded the area around the upper hinge and left the welds unfinished
-both areas where the upper door frame is attached to the door have also been welded and left rough weld
-four or five areas need to have the stud gun work to pull up some low areas

To get moving in the direction of repairs I need to gut the inside of the door so I don't damage any glass, and besides the window regulator was toast. I had the door up on a folding autobody stand and did not want to lift the heavy door to the ground so I could remove items. I slid over the six-foot plastic folding table next to the stand and slid the door onto the table. removed all the screws in the door so the guts can come out. then began removing the internal items, locks, door handle, window regulator, and wind wing vent. Then it was easy to slide the door back onto the autobody stand.

Here are a few pictures of the areas to be repaired.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

After getting everything cut out and sanded down, I could start cutting new sheet metal and get to welding. After spot-welding the three areas in, I started to work on dressing up the old welds by the hinge and a few other places. The welds were attacked with an 80 grit corner flap disk and a die grinder.

Then moved to the next item which was doing some stud gun work to fix low areas. Once I wrapped that up it was time for more stripping of the door and getting some filler in place.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Got after the driver's door this morning to finish sanding down round three on the filler work. After smoothing out a few areas I moved on to getting some 3M glaze in a few spots and some SEM filler primer on the areas. Will be going over the door one more time in the morning and then calling good for primer, then paint.

Re: Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"
 

Moved back over to the cab and got set up to have a go at finishing the final attempt at stripping the rattle can black from the interior. Went with a small 5" DA sander with 120 grit, a battery-operated drill with a coarse wire wheel, and a couple of different magnetic lights. Was able to get the remainder of the cab knocked out in about forty-five minutes or so of continuous sanding.

When it was all done I had about eight or nine spent sanding disc, two areas that gave me some trouble with sticker residue, and another area that reared its ugly head and exposed a few small rust holes that will need attention. Also taught me that I do not like stripping interior paint. Too many weird shapes and puts your body into tiring positions.

Here are a few pictures of the interior.