Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I buy 71 Camaro motor mounts then I build the lower pedestals by myself. I detailed that in this thread

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Great thread, it has helped a lot on my project. Now, my problem: driveshaft / pinion angle. I shortened an extended cab frame 7" to correct wheelbase. I have a 6" static drop, with an Explorer rear end, and went to a 1 piece driveshaft. I have a serious drive train vibration, and am on my second custom made driveshaft.
With all the builds you do, to you have a go-to solution? Thank you

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Have you measured your drive line angles. The trans should be pointing down and the rear end yoke up. Their angles should be equal but opposite. Since you have an Explorer rear end I would put an angle gauge on the face of the yoke, measure, then on the face of the tail housing. I used a Wixley digital angle gauge to get my set-up but I think any decent angle gauge would work:

http://www.rockler.com/wixey-digital...Ap4RoC7-Dw_wcB

Harbor Freight sells one similar but is actually more expensive:

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...not%20provided

I've heard guys say just adding a few washers to their transmission mount to correct the angle took away their drive line vibration.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

If you have an iPhone download the Tremec Toolbox. It has a very accurate angle finder and will walk you through the three angles that matter- tranny, driveshaft and pinion. It will compare the three and let you know which one(s) needs correcting.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thank you both. I've learned a lot about driveline angles in the last couple days. I have it pretty much corrected. Because of the drop, the rear end pinion was above the trans tailshaft. Raised the trans 1", shimmed the pinion down

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

[QUOTE=mxer666;7785317]Thank you both. I've learned a lot about driveline angles in the last couple days. I have it pretty much corrected. Because of the drop, the rear end pinion was above the trans tailshaft. Raised the trans 1", shimmed the pinion down[/QUOTE
glad that you figured it out. I always just put the rear end back on the springs, guess I just have a knack for setting up the driveline. LOL
up

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here is some pics of my engine pedistals.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

The Sorry, this is the pic I meant to post.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Glad to see you back skymangs!!! I have a question. I'm working on a 51 Chevy 3100. I've read through this thread multiple times. Can you cover more of what radiator you use, maybe post a link for to speedway motor's site? I'm running a 5.3L LM7 on a 92 S10 frame. Thanks in advance!!!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

sort of off topic to the current conversation in this thread, but google search and the search button here has been insufficient for what I need. I'm using a stock 95 s10 brack booster/pedal setup on my 49 gmc. a 6.0lqr with 4l80e and need to wire up the pressure switch or tcc correctly. the brake booster has 4 or 5 wires going into a plug.. does anyone know what each of these wires go to?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

A wiring diagram can be your friend. You could grab an ohm meter and start checking to see what the terminals do when you press the plunger in and out

This is how I went about mine and how my switch hooked up.

The front pair is for the brake light switch. When the plunger is opened (pedal depressed) the switch is closed and brake lights light up.

The rear pair terminals are for the TCC and Cruise Control. They are normally closed. When the pedal is depressed these circuits open cutting the power to the TCC and Cruise control.

I relocated my switch so it couldn't be seen below the dash. See Post 177 here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=664837&page=8

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PB...A=w640-h480-no
Referenced from: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/vi...p?f=34&t=72495

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hussy's right, on the 4 pin brake switch 1 pair is normally open(cold, the brake light switch) and the other pair is closed(hot, runs the cruise control or the TCC switch.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This is great information. I am searching for an S10 donor. I do have the rear end off of a 4x4 blazer to get the 4" width. My question is the engine location. i read, but could not find it again, if I use the 4.3 V6 Vortec engine, it would have to move back 7" to accommodate the radiator?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Yes, the general figure is at least 6 inches to accommodate the E fan. I generally put the cab on and then place the driveline so that the distributor is about 1 inch or so in front of the firewall. If you are using an LS motor make sure there is an inch or so there is behind the passenger head.
On the radiator question; just go to Speedway. And search for a universal 19 x 22 radiator. If you're using the 4.3 or the 5.7 is one with a driver's side upper hose. If your gonna have an LS motor you need the passenger side upper hose.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I just did a 4.3 s10 truck and moved the engine back 7", I ran the stock s10 radiator and clutch fan. in retrospect I would probably move it back 9-10" next time. the best thing is I think if I move it back 10 I can use a standard cab one piece driveshaft unmodified.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Seems almost easy. Great info guys!!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Joedoh, are you sure you would be inside the firewall at 10 inches.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here is a bit on installing an LS. I use LT1swaps.com for the wiring. Then I make my own motor mount adapters on the engine side. I use Speedway 19 x 22 universal radiator with the passenger side upper hose. Then I go on eBay and buy a straight billet thermostat housing. I use Hooker cast headers(also on eBay) then I place the motor with the passenger side head about one inch in front of the firewall. You'll want to run a maf or it may not idle right. Send your PCM to Brennen at LT1swaps.com to have it reprogrammed to run in standalone mode and have a basic performance tune put on it. That's about all there is to it. The rest is basic mechanics. Oh yeah, if you choose to run an LS you'll need to separate harnesses. The engine and the body. I use easy wirings 12 or 21 circuit harness, depending on how many accessories I am going to run.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks everyone. This is my first build, waiting on my sons, to make it a family project.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I dont think so, I did 5.5 inches on the last one and the clutch fan didnt fit, so I did 7" on this one and the clutch fan fit but there was still a good couple inches left at the back of the engine to the firewall.

This is for a 4.3, not a v8, but I guess maybe I should go outside and measure instead of just spouting :lol:

the thing is, when people use s10 V8 swap mounts flipped over to move a V8 engine back 5", it actually could go more than 5" with a 4.3, because of where the extra cylinder bank on a V8 is. on an s10 V8 swap you need to move the V8 forward 5" to clear the S10 firewall, so installing a V8 to stock unaltered 4.3 mounts on can be considered moving the V8 back 5" on the s10 frame, then another 3-5" with flipped swap mounts.

I will go measure, maybe something like the head will hit the flat part of the firewall before the distributor hits the bell part. its coooold outside though, like 16 degrees today!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here is the motor mount plates I was referring to.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This is the radiator I use. Both passenger upper and lower hoses. The last 3 are my PCM holder. I usually tack weld and to the backside of the firewall above the steering column. Pretty slick huh?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Next, is some photos showing that straight thermostat housing I mentioned before.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I know moving the motor back is better for handling, etc. I used EZ swaps plates to move a 350 back around 4", but mounted the fan in front of the rad, wired in reverse. Works great

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

See how the lower hose lines up, it's almost straight shot. Now I'll show you a pic of the headers I use. Lastly I almost forgot, I tap the back with of the water pump with an 1/8 inch NPT tap. And I put a 1/4 inch brass elbow with an 1/8 inch NPT end. I put the steam tube there.