Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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I haven't installed it yet. Was planning to do it next couple days. I plan to use Mr Gaskets universal (cut to fit) throttle cable. Part # MRG-5657 I got the idea from this guy's build I found on Instagram. Attachment 1684890 Also, did you switch back to the factory kick down bracket? Yeah, I did. I'm using Lokar's kick down cable which was made for stock factory length. With the higher intake rise and the spacer between the carb, it was putting too much of an angle / bend on the TV cable. If I was to do it again, I would use a universal (cut to fit) TV cable. |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Didn't get a chance to turn the motor over this weekend. One of the battery terminals I ordered from Summit arrived damaged. Going to send it back and have a new set delivered.
I managed to get the interior all completed minus the door panels. Waiting on a pair of new window regulators before I tackle the door windows, latches, etc. I had seat warmers installed both front and rear. The main harness runs through to the center console and had it designed to be hidden with a front aluminum plate that can be slid in and out as you can see here. Attachment 1685023 Attachment 1685024 Controls for the front and rear bench seat Attachment 1685025 Attachment 1685026 |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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More pics. The Tcase shifter ring came from member DeadHeadNM and the Jacking instructions label from member IronCanine. I've been sitting on these two parts for a while now and couldn't wait to put them on.
Attachment 1685027 Attachment 1685028Attachment 1685031 Attachment 1685030 Attachment 1685032 |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Who redid your seat belts?
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After reading it, I started some research and I think I'll use the Lokar TC1000U for my throttle cable - saw some reviews on the Mr Gasket one that gave me pause. And for the rest of your update, it's AWESOME. Great work! |
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Lol.. Me too, I ended up using Lokar XTC-1000HT. I would make sure to add a washer on both sides of the bracket coming off the carb and at the firewall. The ferrules could slip inside and it will help keep in centered. Attachment 1685189 |
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Great minds! And thanks for the pic & advice! |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Having an electrical issue and this one has me stumped. Spent the last week searching the board and web for any help but there doesn't seem to be any one right answer.
When I turn the ignition to either ACC or ON the power remains on even when I turn the ignition switch out and remove key. I have to disconnect the battery so it won't drain. What I have done so far: Disconnected alternator - power remains on Took each fuse out one by one - power remains on To give you some context of what I'm working with.. here goes: I'm using M&H complete electrical wiring harness front to back. It was converted to HEI and Internal regulated alternator. This kit is about 90% plug & play. Grounds: 4 gauge wire from block to frame, other ground wires include frame to inner fender, frame to cab, 2 from engine valve cover to firewall, back of body to frame. Attachment 1687906 Attachment 1687907 Attachment 1687908 Attachment 1687909 Attachment 1687910 |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Found the culprit.
The darn brake light switch was staying activated. I disconnected it and there is no more amp draws from the battery. The brake light switch wasn't plunging in so I'm not sure why it was being activated. I'll try cleaning it to see if that helps and if not I'll just order a new one. All switches seem to be in working order now. ow it's time to turn this motor over. |
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
yeah but.....
did you start the engine yet??? |
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Sort of.. It came on for a slight second with starter fluid, (and it sounded SICK!) but the fuel pump is not pulling in gas. I checked the push rod and it slid down when I installed the pump.. Took it out and got the push rod in the right place.. Went to turn it over and it still wouldn't pull any gas. I only tried turning it over for about 10 seconds after I fixed the position of the push rod. The starter was starting to sound like it was getting tired so I called it day. Tomorrow, I'm going to flush out any air in the lines and if that's not the reason then I'll try manually pumping the fuel pump to see if it's working or not. Open to any other suggestions |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Did you fill the fuel bowls on the carb? Here's a little how to: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/...ur-engine.html
Also I hope you primed the engine oil with a drill before trying to fire it? My guess is it may take a few times of starting it to get all the air out of the fuel lines? |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
very nice detail, the way we all should build them, nice progress
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http://www.autoserviceprofessional.c...-engine?Page=3 |
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Let us know if adding fuel to the carb bowls gets ya going! |
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
I've never actually done it but from reading a few things the engine should idle for a good 30 seconds on just the fuel in the carb bowls. They say to add about 1/4 cup of gas. Are you adding that much?
Also in the reading it says that within that 30 seconds of idle if the fuel pump hasnt pulled gas from the tank to the carb you have other issues. |
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What if it's not even idling for 30 seconds? Could the distributor have anything to do with this? I know the distributor got moved around from where it was set originally from the place that built the motor. If the timing was really off, could that cause it from not being able to hold an idle? |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Might as well make sure/double check the engine is at TDC on #1 with the distrubutor set to fire on the #1 cyl. Should get you close enough to twist the dizzy around as you need to get her going.
Other than that...make sure the idle screw on the carb are not closed?? |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
I had another idea on you trying to start the engine.
Get the fuel bowls full and use fuel hose to hook the fuel pump to a gas can. If you can get it to run from the gas can it might be another issue down with the tank or fuel lines. Make sense? Lastly going back to the carb adjustment - might want to up the fast idle screw. Could keep it idling vs dying. |
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