Re: S10 Swap how to
 

If you want to use the square tube technique, it's 4x4 11ga tube. See my build thread for how I made them. Post #82

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=726321&page=4

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

So I've been going through this thread and I was wondering if you had any advice for hooking up an AC system in these trucks. Like what you need and any tips for how to do it.

I'm new to this but this whole thread was so good I just had to say thank you for it. I got a 51 with half an a frame already on it and have been trying to get everything to fit right. This was a huge help!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

on the AC. the correct thing to do is vintage air, I use the compac and not a sure-fit. I can do it much cheaper (about $900) and customize it to the truck. not only that, that under dash plenum just looks stupid! that being said, you could go with a more budget friendly under dash unit (about $600). just remember, you get what you pay for.
you cannot re-purpose the s10 AC (it's been tried). I get all my AC parts on ebay. you want a universal 19x22 condenser (usually 80-90 bucks) and a hose kit w/drier (80-100 depending) then go to oreillys to have your hose ends crimped. I have gauges and a 20lb bottle of 134A so I do my own charging.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Yea I don't like that under the dash system either lol. I saw a 54 in here that used a vintage air compac, how would you fit the duct work and vents ? I couldn't see any from the interior picture of that 54.


Also what do you do as far as a brace inside the front outer fenders. Usually that bolts to the radiator shroud but can you do that with the radiator in the shroud ?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

100% agree, use a compac unit, not the surefit. The sure fit IMO is very unprofessional looking for the cost. Plus you can piece it all together as you go if money is an issue, and you can do it for less than buying a complete kit.

Your next issue will be compressor and bracket. dep on engine used that will change and again IMO the brackets are overpriced. but if you want to spend $125 and be done with it (for an LS bracket) then go for it, or build your own.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This it timely information for me, as I plan on putting in AC as one of the next major projects. I fully agree about the plenums. They look like they are from a mid '70's Chevy Caprice or something. They don't match the architecture of these trucks at all.

Kwik Performance makes a bracket that works with a mini compressor (I believe Sanden SD7B10) that puts the compressor in front of the passenger side head instead of to the side of it. That way you don't need to cut into the inner fender-at least not as much. I have not bought or installed it but it is probably the route I will go.

Chris, do you have any pics of the plenums you have put together?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

J Hall: there's room for the ducting fits up there. as for vents, use vintage air round surface mount vents. mount them high on the kickpanel. so it's out of the line of sight.

as far as the core support, if you read the first few pages carefully you'll see that you can still bolt the fenders to the core support.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I’ll look into those vents. Thank you again for the responses and all this information ! I’m sure I’ll have more questions later on but for now I appreciate the help !
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

skymangs, I haven't had any luck with those vents. You don't happen to have a link to them or anything do you ?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks for this. I used your mount design on my build and location of the front mounts. The height would have been the most difficult to figure out so this saved me lots of time. Then I used a wood template to place the rears. Only difference is I am going to use angle iron for the backside of the mount so I can run things on top of the frame.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

J Hall; This is the surface mount vent I'm talking about.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Air...53.m1438.l2649
and you'll put it in a housing like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-AIR...LH_TitleDesc=0

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thank you skymangs! I see what you mean now

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm looking for rear axle recommendations. I'm using a 2001 S10 for my swap and I would like a wider rear axle for proper tire width. I see the 4 x 4 models suggested, but when searching the auto wreckers what years would I need to look for? Do some years have disc breaks, etc.? Do I need to find a matching gear ratio? Mine is a GU4 code 3.08 ratio. Thanks,

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

98+blazers/jimmys (2wd and 4x4) have rear discs. the only reason to find a matching ratio is if you are using the stock s10 tire sizes, transmission and gauges, otherwise you will probably benefit in acceleration by going to a numerically higher ratio.

the difference in braking performance with rear discs is negligible. the appropriately sized drums will do the same job as discs on the rear of the truck, but they sure look cooler than drums on wheels with big windows.

4x4 axles are about 4 inches wider (2" per side) than a 2wd axle. there is a model called a ZR2 that got an even wider axle, about 4 inches wider per side AND will come as an 8.5 rear end, very strong.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

So, if I'm not to worried about disc brakes or gear ratio, I can look for and use any year 4x4 S10/Blazer/Jimmy? Thanks,

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

You should first have an idea of what tires and wheels (and their offsets) you want to use, unless you plan on tubbing the bed.

I have a '70 Chevelle axle on my back end and I still had to use 1/2 inch spacers to push the wheels out so that they wouldn't hit the bed sides. I want to be able to carry plywood or drywall occasionally, so I wanted to keep the appx 49" bed width. If you plan on running tubs, you have a lot more flexibility on your axle width.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Great point on the 4ft wide material hauling. Thanks,

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Oh man I wish I did that. Drilling and grinding the firewall to match was time consuming.



Fitz
The rear end selection is a balancing act. Know your transmission gearing. Make a flexible decision on wheel and tire combo... Then a target cruise RPM based on your goal of acceleration vs highway speed. At that point you can calculate what rear end gearing and width you'll need. You can order a custom rear end, but for readily available junkyard parts you may have to change a few decisions.

It may be sacraligeous but I'm running an explorer rear end in my truck. It's the right width for my wheels and the 3.73 ratio I needed to give me a comfortable RPM to cruise 75-80mph on the freeway.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

when trying to put the front fenders and sheet metal back on the truck with a new s10 frame, is it best to start with the radiator support then the inner and outer fenders? I am trying to figure out how much I need to trim the inner fenders actually. oopps, think I was on the wrong page.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

when I put the front end on for mock up, I put the whole clip together (truthfully on most trucks I dont even take it apart), cut the core support and inner fenders where skymangs indicates on the first page of this thread. I get a helper (usually its my left arm helping my right though) and get the rear of the fenders with a couple bolts to the cab (just one on each side), then use a jack to set the front height by shutting the hood to be sure everything lines up. the jack will let you lift/trim/lower/check hood alignment.

I see people take the whole front end all the way apart and dont really understand why. sure if you are doing a real paint job or have collision damage (like my current truck) it makes sense, but if you are just doing a rust-oration and an cruiser s10 swap you can leave it all together. if you unbolt it at the cab (inners and outer fenders) and unbolt/cut the core support, its pretty easy to use leverage and tilt it over the fenders.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

anyone out there i'm new to forum i have 87 s10 118 wheelbase frame i used code 504 frame kit . I diden't like how high it was so i cut there kit to make cab 3'" off frame. cut rad support the same.Now when i pre fit grill the grill brackets hit the frame the frame horns There are cut just in front of the steering box.And now the rad is 3"high above support I'm getting frustrated was going to sell s10 frame going with stock frame i have a lot in this frame can anyone help novaart

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Post pictures. You have to cut the frame horns back pretty far.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

put the cut back in the kit. the code 504 kit puts the running boards below the bottom of the framerails. the space between the cab floor and the top of the frame doesnt really mean anything about how low the truck will be, I have 2" drop spindles and 2" springs with 4" leaf springs on a self made kit that is as tall as the code 504 setup and the running boards are only 4.5 inches off the ground. I could bag it on stock control arms and a small notch and lay the running boards flat on 29" tall tires. the extra height of the body mounts doesnt mean anything to how low the truck will be, it just makes the problems that you have noted worse.

there is a local metal banger that throws these together by bolting the cab straight to the frame. he has to lean the radiator way out in front of the core support and his grilles are all cut up.

put the extra you cut out back in.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

with the code 504 kit befor cutting kit the running boards were 9'' of ground hade 2' above front tire way to high by cutting cab mounts 3' bring running boards 5'' of ground

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

that is with 2' drop spindles and 3' front drop springs

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

toss the code 504 kit and follow my instructions, you'll be happy that you did.

once you cut the cab brackets nothing else will fit. everything is based off that cab to frame height. IMHO nothing looks right on a finished truck with one of those kits, the gaps are all wrong. if you read this thread from the beginning you'll see step by step instructions with diagrams and measurements. if you can cut down 504 brackets, you can do this!
besides you have to pick brains with!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Working on lowering my front end. I cut 1" of height off the S10 front coil springs to get 2" of drop. What is the most that can be cut off before things start getting strange? I'm hoping to avoid buying drop spindles and get all my lowering out of shortening the springs.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

thanks skymangs started looking at your build on page 8 will continue tomorrow

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

something is not adding up, and its not just your math (9" - 3" cut = 5"?) also, what tires are you running? if you have a 235/75/15 on it thats a 29.5" tall tire!

the code 504 kit is made to put the running boards about an inch below the frame. you said you changed out the front coils for lowering springs so that means you probably dont have Z85 springs (the high ride springs) in there any more. skymangs brackets with stock s10 bushings put the running boards in almost the same spot. also, the interference you are having with the radiator after cutting confirms that the code 504 kit is roughly the same height as skymangs lowered brackets.

a lot of guys see the cab on the frame and it LOOKS really tall, but its not actually. let me tell you from experience, skymangs lowered mounts with a 2" spring and 2" drop spindle puts the running boards about 3.5" off the ground, and that having the running boards 3.5" off the ground lets the front bumper scrub the crown in the road! this is all with plenty of clearance for a 19x22 rad. you are saying with 3" more out of the kit, and 5" of front drop you are still at 5", I say impossible. that would be almost flat on the ground.

do you have the motor in? trans? front clip on? running boards on? bed? because if you just have the cab on the frame its going to look a mile high.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I 100% agree with joedoh. the math is just not adding up (math is hard). I can tell you that my version 2 brackets with stock springs, 2" drop spindles, and 2"' blocks in the rear will net you the forward edge of the boards 5" off the ground. do not doubt me on this! I've built hundreds! and stay away from dropped springs and cut coils. with dropped spindles you still get full suspension travel. dropped springs and cut coils ride like $hit anyway!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Question for you guys. I browsed the thread for awhile and couldn't find what I was looking for.

I used SKYMANGS cab mount design and everything bolted up. I was wondering what the cab height off the frame should be both front and back. I'm not sure if it should be level or what, but if someone could provide me those measurements, I'm sure it will make putting the rest of the body together much easier. Also, let me know to what point on the cab you measure to. As we all know, pictures are worth a 1000 hours of work.....

Thanks in adavnce!!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the mounts give the height in their dimensions, just add the inch of the body mount to it. so if you use his version 2 brackets for example, the front mount is 3 1/4 tall off the frame plus the inch for the bushing, so 4 1/4. in the back its 4" tall, plus the inch is 5". the height difference is because the front has an underfloor brace that the body bushing will mount to, but the rear does not (on shackle mount cabs you have to trim the floor support to get the body bushing to mount flat

so the flat of the AD floor should be 5" off the flat part of the frame, the front section of the frame takes a ~1/2" dip

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I’ve read all of this thread and Skymags builds along with a lot of other S10 swap builds. My question is with the version 2 mounts does the cab floor remain flat? Also does the bed floor remain at the same height and retain the factory cross sills? Everything I have read makes me believe that the bed floor will raise 1/2 inch.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the version 2 are the taller mounts, right? thats what is labeled version 2.

with the short mounts, if I had an extra inch in height between the cab and frame I wouldnt need much of a trans bump. if I did it would only be because of the bellhousing, and only from how far I move the motor back, which is more than some guys do


for the floor of the bed it all depends on how you are mounting the floor. if you use the stock bed crossmembers and bed wood, I think the taller mounts would let you keep the floor intact. you might have to modify the bed crossmembers around the gas tank/axle. as it stands, I use the shorter version of skymangs mounts and the stock s10 bed floor, and it moves up about an inch.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

IIRC version 2 are the shorter ones.

with my design the bed floor moves from below the edge angle strips to above, it's really hardly noticeable. And with my design the bed is so much more sturdy and usable there really is no comparison.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks for all the information Skymangs. I have made my mounts based on your version 1 mounts. They’re the same height due to the to me using Dodge poly mounts that are 1/2” different front to rear.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

On the s10 proportioning valve I am assuming the rear of it goes to the front?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

thats the way mine is

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Those mounts look real good, remember to bend the legs out 15deg. for frame strength. now I’ll have to go back and look, now I'm remembering versos 1 as the short ones.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

The version 1's are 31/4" above the frame, version 2's are 41/4". Version 1's ARE shorter!