Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Suhhweeetttt! I'm in, can't wait to see it unfold :sumo:

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Me too! Parts collecting mode right now, progress soon :chevy:

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

I think the arbitrary line you reference in the diagrams is intended to represent the firewall. I'm not 100% certain of it though. Looks like you've got it figured out anyway. Good luck.

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

I was kinda thinking that, too. It may or may not matter, but it’s a start

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Received a couple of boxes from MS today:

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Overall view of the Polite’s Deadend Garage parts received:

Pretty impressed with the quality for the money. Seems like well thought-out parts with good assembly and nice welds.

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

First up, the panhard bar. It’s a nice, heavy piece that is full length from the frame rail to the trailing arm. Includes wrap-around trailing arm mount and shim for opposite side. The heims are opposite threaded so adjustments can be made on the truck. Bonus.

This bar will also work on stock 2wds, which means that any stock or aftermarket stock-style panhard should work with the conversion kit. I chose to purchase this with the notches since I recently (and foolishly) sold my ECE super panhard. Did I mention I wasn’t looking for another project?...

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Next, the rear shock relocation brackets. These are important since the 4wd does not have the crossmember with provisions for upper shock mounting with the trailing arms. The upper brackets will tie into the notches and the lowers mount on the trailing arms. Notice, too, that all holes are slotted for adjustability. This may come in handy for alignment or clearing exhaust, etc.

You can see that one of the lowers was bent, presumably in shipping, but a big crescent wrench quickly rectified that (though it didn’t bend easily).

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Now, the heart of this conversion setup, the notches. They serve as not only the c-notch for axle clearance, but also provide the upper mount for the coil springs (or bags), which is missing on the straight 4wd Blazer framerails. They also have the frame side panhard bracket, locate the upper shock mounts and panhard crossmember, and have holes for stud mount bumpstops.

Also included is a template used to locate and shape the cut for the notches in the framerails. Nice.

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

I also purchased a set of their front shock relocators, which correct shock angle and allow use of a stud style shock, similar to what Porterbuilt and RideTech offer. The uppers bolt to the ‘rails, while the lowers locate in the a-arm channel and are welded in place.

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

And finally, mock-up. Truck parts in tha house! The parts fit together very nicely. I anticipate a smooth install (we'll see). There are a few places I will have to grind some welds smooth for good fitment, but overall, pretty impressed.

Notice I also elected to have them send a second crossmember that I will locate as close as possible to the spring perches to keep the framerails from bowing under the weight of the truck.

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Looks like some nice pieces. I'm surprised it took that long for somebody to make an econimcal, simple way to convert a 4x4 to 2wd.

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Thanks for the detailed pics of the Deadend Garage parts.

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

I know, right?! Wish I’d thought of it...
Certainly. I know of only one other person with these parts right now, so I'm a bit of a guinea pig. But, that just makes it a little bit more fun :smoke:

Just received the following from DEG, along with a bunch more pics and answers to my questions. Great customer service so far from these guys. Looks like the c-notch will locate pretty much inline with where the 4wd bumpstops are currently.

EDIT: Direct comparison with my previous conversion confirms the notch location is almost exactly the same. :metal: (reference the existing frame holes in relation to the vertical line drawn at axle CL)

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Spent some time today pulling the original gas tank, which still wears its “snake” filler neck, but unfortunately keeps blocking the fuel filter with mud rust, has been poorly patched in the past, and the gauge sender is malfunctioning. Thankfully, I have the poly tank I removed from the C10 to replace it.

When I removed the tank, I also removed a bunch of evap lines, that looped through a second filler cover on the passenger side, then ran up the framerail next to the battery to where the charcoal canister used to be. I’m guessing this was a California model, as I didn’t think trucks had this extra stuff until ‘72? Either way, when I install the new tank, I’ll make sure to, um, properly restore the function all of these lines and hoses and stuff, um, yeah :exit:

Also yanked the pretty nice and well-fitting trailer hitch from an unknown manufacturer. Almost a shame to pull it, but it hangs below the license plate which won’t exactly jive with the planned new stance

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Hey Chris, just a heads up on the poly tank. Its hard to attach the metal fill pipe to the poly tank, they were soldered on from the factory, and the location is very specific to get around the body mount

I use a chisel to start the cut, and tin snips to finish up. Don't blow yourself up

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Thanks for the tip. Definitely won’t be throwing any sparks around it, haha

For the filler, I have a couple of options. The one attached is what I used on the truck, which cleared the floor well. If that doesn’t work here, I’ll use the smaller one on top to adapt the “snake”. That’s the plan, anyway :chevy:

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Any idea if DeadEnd Garage has a kit that doesn't require you to use a C-notch? I hate the thought of cutting a good frame - even if the goal is to go 2wd.

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

I'd be interested in the OEM gas tank fuel neck and the trailer hitch if you don't intend to use these. Thanks, Pete

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

I’m sure they could build one without the notch. Call them up and see what they have to say. Super customer service from them
I’ll let you know on the filler neck in the next couple of days. Hitch is up for grabs now

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Finished removing the evap system for “restoration” purposes. Looks like this one used to be olive (no SPID). Also appears the evap system was an add-on, after paint. Behind the fuel filler cover is primer only, so it was assembled pre-paint. <— gee-wiz interesting. Love the olive color, but I like ochre more ;)

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

While the tank and wiring are out, I coated everything I could reach and that isn’t getting removed soon with my favorite shade of POR-15. Not perfect, but much better looking than surface rust.

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

That evap thing you pulled definitely wasnt stock.

They were always on the driver side. The panel you pulled off would cover the filler neck and there would be a cylindrical stand pipe that had 3 hoses connect to it under the floor pan.

What you have is really strange.

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Thanks, please do. What do you need for the hitch shipped to 87107? Pete

Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
 

Strange, yes. I’ve only seen the other type you speak of, too. I still think this was a GM add-on, based on the fasteners, brackets, hoses and cover used, as well as the overall cleanliness and well engineered approach of the install. Maybe an early version before they refined the design?
I’ll dig up a box and let you know.