Re: West Coast 67
 

C'mon out... I can put a cot in the basement for you ;) Do you take S&H Green Stamps?

Re: West Coast 67
 

I like the two tone as well. This one was cool one to do, I really liked the ideas that went into it. Now on to the next one.... (sound of whip cracking)... back to work to work render boy!

Carter

Re: West Coast 67
 

Ok, I have a really stupid question. I'm sorry but please just humor me. When the wheels are so big and so tucked, is there a problem with the turning radius? It just doesn't look like it the wheels would turn very far. Is something done to fix this or is it just not as tight as it looks?

Re: West Coast 67
 

It's running a Dropmember... so many of the common issues associated with this drastic of a drop and this big of a tire have been addressed. At full dump, you do not have a turning radius (the tires barely clear the hood)! At ride height (frame-rail 5" off the ground) there is plenty of turning radius and at full lift there is all sorts of room.
I think the front wheels are little too big... I think a 20" wheel with a 27" diameter tire looks best in the front of these trucks.

Re: West Coast 67
 

I vote 18's (I really like the 19" wheel, but there are so few choices). And, yes, 27" tire.

Oh, and I've got that cot set up and ready to go :metal:

Re: West Coast 67
 

What is a S&H Green stamp? Oh XXL... how about a sleep number bed in the master bedroom?

Re: West Coast 67
 

This shows the age of both of you :lol:

Re: West Coast 67
 

Looks great as always! I like XXL's idea of a hood cowl merger. I have been thinking about this and then sink the windshield frame down about 1.5" (1.5" chop) and hide the wipers down their as well so you would increase the cowl to glass gap, smooth everything out on top and still have wippers. This was done in Tex Smith's book on chop Tops and thought it was cool:cool:

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Re: West Coast 67
 

Some more pics of the fender/hood welded up.

Re: West Coast 67
 

Few more...

Re: West Coast 67
 

Waddaya mean? You can still get worthless crap after saving for years upon years... clickie

Re: West Coast 67
 

Love the plexy fire wall;)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Re: West Coast 67
 

Awesome Work!! - can't say that I dig the hood treatment, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

Do you have any pictures of the welded sheetmetal seams before ginding them? - I see some Cleco's and looks like a backer piece of metal in some of the pictures - did this backer get welded in with the overlap like that?

Re: West Coast 67
 

Better road feel while driving.

:metal:

Re: West Coast 67
 

I grind the seams as I go (one spot weld at a time) ... this way it minimizes heat while grinding.

That backer piece is just for fitting... I butt-weld all my sheetmetal joints. I just used it to get the front piece fit up.

Re: West Coast 67
 

All i can say is WOW :metal:

Re: West Coast 67
 

Interesting on the grinding, I have never heard of anyone doing that before.

Re: West Coast 67
 

Well then I guess you never read the LemonDrop thread:lol: That is the only way to go! I like using a 3" x .040 cut off wheel on a right angle die grinder, small, light and it won't get away from you! Makes for some slow going on big seems but the end result requires alot less finish work.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Re: West Coast 67
 

Thanks,

You're obviously TIG welding everything as you would never be able to get a MIG weld to metal finish like that. -
How did you close those gaps where the backers were used for fitment? - I though you couldn't fill a gap that big in sheet metal with a TIG?

Looks like you had to split the front of the hood section to get the body lines to work (which left you with those gaps) I guess my question is were you able to close them or did you add a "filler strip"???

Re: West Coast 67
 

The front piece will have filler pieces that go in on each side.

When TIG welding a panel I try and get the edges to butt up perfectly (no gap). The way I achieve this is by lining it up best I can, tack it in a few spots, then take my trusty cut-off wheel (1/32") and run it along the entire seam making the gap perfectly even (I don't cut the spot welds yet). Now I have a perfect gap that is even and true. I then cut the tacks and butt the panel up tight. Out comes the welder and away I go. After each tack or small stitch I will grind, hammer, and dolly the area making sure the entire panel maintains alignment. It may seem like it would take more time to use this method, but time spent now almost always means time saved later!

If I am using the MIG process I follow the same steps, only I don't butt the edges up completely... I have found it best to leave a small gap to aid in penetration.

Re: West Coast 67
 

Subscribing...:)

Re: West Coast 67
 

I grind as well with a 3M weld grinding wheel, 3" same but I have never ground down each individual spot weld as I go along. I will have to try that method and see how it comes out. Wish I had a tig welder though. May need to buy one this year some time as money permits.

Re: West Coast 67
 

Looking forward to watching this one come to completion.

Re: West Coast 67
 

It may be a little annoying at first, but once you see the end result, you won't go back to the other way!

Re: West Coast 67
 

Starting to look like a truck again! At least for a little while...