Originally Posted by 502ss (Post 4410896)

all wires will be incased in an abrasive resistant jacket.

Originally Posted by 502ss (Post 4410896)

Yeah I thought about that too. Mixing electrical and gas fumes could end badly. I plan to convert the tail lights to led and because the light will be hinged the harness will need to be redone anyway so all connections will be soldered and all wires will be incased in an abrasive resistant jacket. There will be a plug where the new harness connects into the existing harness but this plug will be located under the truck far away from the filler neck.

It doesn't hurt to take the extra steps to avoid a possible issue!
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by 69step4x4 (Post 4409134)

this is mine on my stepside, but truck is painted now

Originally Posted by swamp rat (Post 4410808)

One comment or concern that was brought up in a different thread that i was reading that i have not seen here is that some folks have been a bit concerned about the possibility of sparks, bad wire or connection and gas fumes after filling. I cant speak first hand of this but thought at least you should be aware of it if you do a light filler mod be it ether tail light or rear marker..

Originally Posted by ls1nova71 (Post 4412479)

1956 Chevys had the fuel filler behind the taillight from the factory, and I've never heard of one of them ever blowing up because of it. I've been driving my station wagon with the taillight filler mod for several years, without incident. Hope I didn'justt jinx myself!
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by swamp rat (Post 4412127)

There ya go! What kinda jacket would you be refering to? Personally really like the rear tail light and marker light mods, just for me it didn't seem to be the best choice, now if i had a 1/2T short box it would be a different story.. :)

Originally Posted by HuggerCST (Post 4411124)

I agree, that is something to be mindfull of when building one, and also when refueling. My cap is not vented, so there are no fumes or fuel there unless I remove the cap, but it will burp fuel out when refueling occasionally, so there is a danger of fire.

That's another thing that should be done because the wires will be flexed everytime the door is opened.

Originally Posted by 502ss (Post 4412704)

I like the spark resistant material located on this page!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/803/=alnooi
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by dixietruck71 (Post 4412890)

hart_rod i like it, so simple its retarded. does that hinge have like a detent built into it that keeps it from flopping in the closed position?

Originally Posted by 502ss (Post 4413419)

Hart_rod very nice! Can you share where you found the hinge? It almost looks like something I have seen on a kitchen cabinet?
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by superchevy (Post 4413615)

Here's mine.

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod (Post 4413579)

It's spring loaded open and closed although I use the factory tail light screw to keep it "locked".



Bingo! Picked 2 of them up a Home Depot for about $5. Here's a picture and part number.

Originally Posted by superchevy (Post 4413615)

Here's mine.

Originally Posted by HuggerCST (Post 4408862)

Mine has a spring attached to the side of the leans backing plate. That spring is mounted at an angle so that it cams over and holds it open, or closed. I simply push on the bottom of the lens to open it.

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod (Post 4412860)

Here's mine. No cuttin or welding on the bed....

Originally Posted by HuggerCST (Post 4411124)

I agree, that is something to be mindfull of when building one, and also when refueling. My cap is not vented, so there are no fumes or fuel there unless I remove the cap, but it will burp fuel out when refueling occasionally, so there is a danger of fire.

That's another thing that should be done because the wires will be flexed everytime the door is opened.

Originally Posted by RaceAGMC (Post 4484407)

Can you explain to me why you have to run the trim with your set up? Maybe show me too?