Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Il be getting rid of the dex cool. I have to drain the coolant anyway when I swap off the tri-power for a regular manifold and edelbrock 1406 carb. I'll just be putting in the green standard coolant.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Another question. I was under the truck on my crawler tonight looking at the cab mounts. Mine don't look like in the lmc truck catalogue. The fronts mounts do, but I was having troubles understanding the rear cab mounts. I can see them underneath the truck but where are they inside the cab? Are they behind the tank? If they are I would need to remove the tank to get at them? I ordered the cab mount kit from lmc because I need to get the front mounted properly because there is no bolts or anything. Anyone have a better picture either then the drawing from the catalogue? This is on original frame not s10 swap.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Not the best photos, but try here http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...51ctsm0102.htm

If I remember the rear cab mounts are under the gas tank, but it's been awhile since I had my tank out.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Nice to see another AD truck in Edmonton. Im just waiting for the snow to melt so i can bring mine back out. Stock you should have the shackle style rear cab mount and the single bolts in the front. Been a long time without my tank behind the seat but if i recall correctly you can still get to the back side of the bolts with the tank still in.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Thank you jweb, now I understand how they are supposed to go. It was kind of hard to understand looking at the catalogue and being under the truck practically upside down LOL.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Wolfclub, I was in Edmonton now I'm in Beaumont. If you want to come out sometime to look at the truck let me know. PM me.

I'll take another closer look at the rear cab mounts on the weekend when I get the cab mounting kit. Ordered them through KMStools.

Last night I was doing a little further digging and investigation on the truck. Since I didn't know the year of the chevy 350 in there I ran the block casting number 41 GM 3970010 and some information from the rear end GM30 and
1254333 is the rear end. I also found the make/model of the distributor its a
Mallory 2548201.

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvrf4tmrf.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psdo5vumu5.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psx17iifc3.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psb4ad1tgl.jpg

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

I believe you'll get more precise origin information if you research the number stamped into the flat-machined spot on the driver's side of the block just ahead of the head.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

I found this number on the front of the block just above the water pump on the passenger side. Google couldn't really tell me anything.

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psa6fhfzvx.jpg

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

V=Flint MI engine plant
09=Sept
09=9th day
TWZ=1978 350, conv.cab truck, L LS9, 165 HP, 4 barrel carb, K-10 to 2500

(from: http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-cod...s-suffix-8.php)

By the way--GM used the LS9 designation for 69-up truck 350's for a while. This is different from the LS series of engines that also have an LS9-code engine.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Question: What is the optimal width a rear end should be to run 18-20" wheels? Will this transAm/Camero rear end be to wide?

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Wow that's awesome!!!!

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

I'll weigh in on this, but hopefully you'll get some first-hand information from some guys running this combination.

That axle is supposed to be 62.5" hub face-to-hub face. If I remember right, you need 50" between the tires to clear the outside walls of the bed. It would seem like if your wheels had 5" backspacing, your tires would clear the bed by 1.25" (less the amount the sidewall balloons out). If you didn't go nuts on the width of the tires, they should fit.

All that to say that I think that axle will work fine.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

It really depends on the wheel width, back spacing and tire size. My wheels are either 20x8.5 or 20x9 with 4.75" back spacing, I can't remember. My axle is 61.5" wide and it sits perfectly between the fender and bedside.

Basically it's best to measure, if you plan to go really low it all changes due to the curve of the fender.

Here's a bunch of good info about measuring for wheels http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=530806

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Thanks jweb and jkeating1 for the information. I will measure the rear diff and see what the actual measurements are. I'm a couple months away from ordering new rims and tires.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Little update from the weekend.

I got the "Cab to Frame Mount Kit" and "Stepside Bed to frame mounting kit" and got them installed this weekend. Also vacuumed and cleaned out the cab from all the mouse **** and other stuff. Swapped around the front control arm bolts and tightened everything up because it was loose.

This was a before picture of one of the rear mounts. I thought I took an "after" pictures.

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps9fngklw5.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psgrjcnol0.jpg
I also fixed the battery box cover so it actually locks properly.
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psst937tuq.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps1g4lnmob.jpg

Also can someone tell me what the big bar is going across the middle of the cab frame? I want to remove it because I cant get at the front box mounting bolts. The hole is to small to get my fingers in there and get the nut on there. If I removed the bar the access hole will be a lot bigger.

I couldn't find any information online about it. I took out the bolt and loosened the steel washer ring behind it but the b*tch wont come off. I smacked it with a hammer and broke it loose a little but it's not budging. Probably have to torch it off or use my sawsall.

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvh58ivvh.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd7atpefz.jpg

Also had a little time to go to Mopac and get a carb rebuild kit and gasket set for the 350. Going to try and get the manifold swap done soon.

Still have to figure out what I'm going to do with that rear end.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

That bar is for the stock ebrake. If you not planning on using it please let me know as im looking for one.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Stick something like a wide screwdriver in the top of the clamp V area and pound it in to spread it open. They will then slide off the ends of the bar. After they are off you just have to slide the bar to one side first so one end drops out then angle it down and slide it out the other way.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Hmmmm... I couldn't find any documentation online on what it was used for. I know just behind the bar further back is the e-brake brackets on either side of the frame.

Anyone have any documentation on how it's hooked up? I have the original floor pedal and release rod in the cab and it works I was hoping to hook up new e-brake cables to the stock pedal when I get to that point.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

The foot pedal in the cab connects to a tab on the drivers side of that bar. The clamps at the ends of the bar then go to the rear wheels.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

I have a factory assembly book at home and I will snap you a picture after work.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Here's 1 photo of the e brake

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Thanks.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

Thanks jweb. What are you using for ebrake setup?

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

I don't have one. I cut all of that out when I took my frame to get blasted. When it came time for re-assembly I realized I screwed up.

I will say I don't think I need one, I have a very steep driveway and my truck doesn't move when it's in park, but you may be required to have one where you live.

Re: 1952 Project 1433
 

I believe it's required where I live. Probably won't pass inspection without it.