Re: C20 lowered pictures
I was rebuilding the front suspension & wanted to eventually bag the truck with drop spindles you still have the same travel with the stock spring, if you run drop springs you lose travel. Plus I have disc already so for you it would cost more to upgrade but worth it.
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Re: C20 lowered pictures
@northerngmc
The lower bolts (the ones in the trailing arms) were difficult to extract. They were rusted, the trailing arm hole was jammed with crud, and the bolts are 5 inches long so they don't want to just slide on out for you. I spent a lot of time soaking them with penetrant. I ended up cutting the bolt head off and coaxing them out of the hole with a two arm press until I could get the retainer and spring off. Then I used a nut and spacers on the thread end to slowly jack the bolt out. The uppers came off easy. Hopefully you won't have this problem but it's good to be aware of how hard these bolts can be to get out. I've seen other threads on this subject so it might be good to research some of them beforehand. I put jack stands under the frame just forward of the rear wheel wells and jacked the truck up until I could drop the rear end far enough to unload the springs and then some. I had the pumpkin set on a floor jack most of the time which helped because I had to jockey the rear axle up and down a lot. I had another pair of jack stands to set the axle on as needed. The new springs are a bit tricky to get started, there are a lot of parts moving around at first; springs, and two sets of nuts/bolts/retainer. The trailing arm is not parallel with the frame and everything wants to wander away from where you want it. You will probably have to experiment a little to find out what works best for you. Take pics of your original installation before you tear it apart and try to follow the same orientation of the parts when you put it all back together. I replaced the springs over a period of about a week I guess. Since I've been retired I find I don't push so hard to get things done. I do as much as I'm comfortable with then come back fresh to do more. It wasn't as easy to do as I thought it might be, but it came out OK and I like the way it looks and it rides a lot better. Good luck with yours. |
Re: C20 lowered pictures
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Here is mine before...
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And after with Paul's 4" rear and 2" front...
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Yes it is. All original truck out of Oregon. Good luck!!!
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Here is mine. 3 inch lowering springs in front with a coio cut and 5 inch lowering springs in back with 1 1/2 inch blocks
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Drop spindles in front. & drop springs in the rear
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Chevy2tom where did you get those wheels and what size are they?
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Re: C20 lowered pictures
From a fellow board member a few years ago, they are centerline 16 x ? I'm going to look @ new tires today after work @ my local tire shop. I'm looking for something wider for the back & skinnier for the front also shorter profile.
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Re: C20 lowered pictures
[QUOTE=markmdz;6992832]How far are you from the bumpstops, or are you riding on them now?
I cut the bump stops out all the way around. the only thing i need really is a front shock relocation or just shorter shocks. They sometimes bottom out when i go too fast they sometimes bottom out. |
Re: C20 lowered pictures
Has anyone done the c20 western chassis drop leaves from summit racing (with pic)
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How much did you cut the front coils & when did the front bottom out.Just getting ready to do our 69 C20.Thanks for taking the time,Doug
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Re: C20 lowered pictures
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My 72 C20
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Coils or leafs in the rear? |
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Re: C20 lowered pictures
So for those of you with a 2"/4" drop, did you change the panhard bar?
Does anyone make a C20 adjustable panhard bar? I am giving up on getting C20 springs sent to Canada so I am going with C10 drop springs and shocks. But what about the panhard bar? |
Re: C20 lowered pictures
Try a Porterbuilt panhard bar
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