Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Hello all! Fiddled around. I spent most of the day battling with the pedals...

Messing with the pedal I figured out a couple things. Before I get into that a little back story. hydro booster linkage for whatever reason will not line up with the pedal... So first I tried shimming the booster to angle it. No go... So next I decide to pull the pedal out to get a better look. I notice there is in fact two holes in the pedal. One roughly a inch above the hole that has the mount for the factory linkage. Out of curiosity I put the pedal back in and stuck a bolt through the hole into the linkage. Before I get ahead of myself moving the linkage mounting point up makes the pedal travel further... Bad in most cases. So then I pressed the pedal as far as it would go and measured a common point on the fire wall to the pedal. After this I went out to my donor truck and also pressed the pedal all of the way and measured. Wouldn't you know that the pedal travel was roughly 1/2" FURTHER on the donor which has a factory vacuum booster. So I can only guess the factory hydro booster has a different travel then the vacuum booster? I really have no idea. If anyone has any insight I wouldn't mind! The booster is from a 1995 Vandura. Stupid me didn't grab the pedal from the van so I can't measure the throw on that.

Nothing really picture worthy there...

Found a couple heims I think I am going to use to make a new clutch pedal to bell crank rod.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0338.jpg

Pulled the old center console piece out of the donor. It won't clear the manual though so I'm probably going to cut it.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0340.jpg

I randomly stuck a set of new style center caps on my Outlaw wheels. Doesn't look to shabby! Thinking I might pick up a set of lug nuts to try them. I figured out you can get them in standard sizes. They are known as "Dual Thread" lug nuts.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0342.jpg

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Rear drive shaft in. Don't worry, the yoke is long as hell... Plenty still inside the case.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0344.jpg

The right U-Joint was a 3130. It has a large cap 1330 on one side, and a 1310 on the other.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0345.jpg

Also got the bolts for the leaf springs. Grade-8 9/16" bolts.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0347.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0346.jpg

Not pictured is one header ground down, and the clutch bell crank bracket holes slotted.

Rainy day... The brake pedal is going to be the death of me...

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Coming along nicely!

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Nice!

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Thanks!

Had the truck rolled outside for another car...
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0348.jpg

Got the other header cut.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0350.jpg

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

that motor looks awesome! nice progress!

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Thanks man! Your is coming along great as well!


Put the front-rear bushings in. I decided to leave the shackle bushing factory. Mainly because they looked new.

I used the same prep method as the front. die grinder with a bur bit to clean the hole, and a wire brush to prep the leaf. The shackles I used a wire wheel to clean, then sprayed them black. Wanted to paint them red, but didn't have any red paint... :(

The bushings are lubed with a combination of ZEP 2000, and a silver anti seize lube.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0362.jpg

Nasty...
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0361.jpg

Better.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0364.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0366.jpg

And I messed with making a small fuel gauge. you can see that here. Don't worry, still doing the autometers!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=460192

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Looking good there bud!

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Last update was the 19th? What is wrong with me?

After fiddling with the header issue I have gone back to trying to make the original set of headers work. They are Flowtech Afterburner headers for a car. The issue I had with them is that they run right into the part coming off the bell crank that holds the rod for the fork. So now I'm considering modding the bell crank to fit around the headers.

Enjoy some over exposed pictures for your troubles! :lol:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0387.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0389.jpg

I need to get this header/clutch issue resolved SOON. I also have to modify the hydrobooster bracket, and dig up some 1/2" rod to make a new pedal-to-crank rod with hiems. So much slop in the current setup this will do wonders...


Another update is I have been working on my plan of attack for the 6.5L. Currently I'm down to pulling the heads for some port, and polishing. Then stick them back on with some new .010"+ FelPro's, and some ARP studs. Not before filling the water jackets some though. After that I am going to cut out some flanges to make my own headers. Cut the flanges out, then make a fixture to heat, and form tubing to fit the flanges properly. The headers will be routed low, and forward with V-band clamps. Then a second crossover/2-to-1 pie will be made to connect the two headers, and come up up mount the turbo in passenger area of the engine bay roughly over the frame rail. The V-bands will allow other options later. Like, twins...

After playing with a bunch of fancy numbers I have come to the conclusion that for size, and ease of procurement a GT35 is my best bet for a turbo. I will be running a basic external wastegate with a manual controller. I plan to run a intercooler as well. I need to figure out what sort of room I have. I really am not looking to run a very large one. Simply because I don't think I need it. I am planning a homemade water/meth injection to go with it as well.

With all of this done my problem now moves... I got plenty of air, but what about fuel? The stock pump I have is a DB2-5088. Which is a 170HP pump. Now I know I can turn it up some, but getting it to my target is laughable...

The options for HO injection pumps are pretty much two standards. The DB2-4974 which is a 250HP marine pump, and the DB2-5722 which is the 310HP pump. Problem? They aren't cheap, and hard to get a hold of... More to come on that story as I figure it out.

If you are wondering, I am not shooting for a specific power number. I am shooting for a power to weight ratio... To put it simply I won't be happy until I'm looking at a number below 14. Final weight of the truck is projected to be in the 4200Lb range. :smoke:

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Fuel tank is out...

I got the front bolts out the other day, and the backs out today. Even with potato chip sized chunks of rust coming off the frame the bolts came out easy. Used a 1/2" drive impact with a deep 5/8" socket. I needed to get the old true dual setup out before I could get to the back bolts. Using a sawzall I cut the back hanger, and the front let go at the flange before I could get to it. Rust... I also cut the E-brake cable out for a little more room.


After the bolts are out it was a simple matter of cutting the old hoses.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0404.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0405.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0406.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0407.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0408.jpg

Old mud dauber nests. Found one in the muffler too...

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Got the straps off.

Now, I'm not a betting man, but after looking at the straps I knew the nuts wouldn't come off. But I had to spray on some oil, and try... First one broke the strap itself, and the second twisted the stud clean off...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0409.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0410.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0411.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0412.jpg

After cleaning... Funny how exactly like you think the front one is rusted more... The nuts are pretty much rotted away, and the one side is rotted away. I'm considering welding on new nuts, and doing something to brace up the one rotted side...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0416.jpg


Need to fix those rust issues, and order some new straps.

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Crap! Crap! Damn! Damn! Son of ah... Oh, hi... :)

Well, I got the new fuel tank, and it turned out to be a 20 gallon... So I have a new 20 gallon, and a second I can grab if I need, but still no 16 gallon... Guess I may try and find someone who wants to trade, or something...

On another note My Dad, and myself took the Titan Gecko we have out of winter storage, and got it on the road. Guess I need to stop putting off taking the course... Other then that, just been working, and mowing grass! Money, is money! :)

Bike in question. It is a Titan Gecko that we rebuilt back in '09. Took it down to a bare frame, and rebuilt it. Fixed a tank ding, smoothed the rear fender, repainted the frame, and tins, and stripped/repainted the engine/tranny. The whole bike was a mix of blue paints, and powder...
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...n/100_5386.jpg

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

great progress! so have you got your hand on a turbo for that 6.5?

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Had to go to the second page for my thread. :( Very sad.

Today is as good as a day for a update as any... So far today I have gotten the mounting bracket off the booster, and taken some measurements. Since I don't have a 2-7/8" wrench for the nut that holds the booster, to the bracket I used a chisel. A flat chisel on the edge of the nut with a few hammer whacks broke it loose. The trick is to hold the chisel at a angle. Otherwise you are just cold cutting...

Measurements involved were a few. First I measured a vacuum booster bracket to see what the angle of that was set at. Turned out to be 5*. Then I measured the actuating rod, it was set at a 10* angle inside the truck. The max angle for the rod was 15* (30* total), and the Vandura bracket I'm modding was set at a 5* angle in the wrong direction...

Next, I'm going to clean the Vandura bracket, and using a cut off wheel to cut the bottom, and sides. Then I will bend it to the proper angle and weld wedges in to fill it in.


My advice for anyone doing a Hydro boost conversion is to simply DON'T DO IT THIS WAS! Get the right booster! Same for the clutch pedal assembly...

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Here is some progress. I cleaned the bracket, and cut it with a cut off wheel. No special measuring, just eye balked it...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/IMAG0723.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/IMAG0724.jpg

And I made the pedal-to-bell crank rod I wanted to. Instead of making a bunch of fancy measurements, I used a piece of brazing rod, and cut it so the rod ends would be in right position at roughly half thread. That way I had some adjustment.

I got the measurement (16"), and cut it using the cut off wheel. Then cleaned, and beveled the ends with a bench grinder. Then using a fine thread 1/2 die, I threaded the rod for enough threads to fully sink the rod end, and still have the jam nut. Which ended up to be about 1.7".

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/IMAG0725.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/IMAG0726.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/IMAG0727.jpg

Enjoy.

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Nothing much to show. I bent the bracket up. What I did was take the protractor from my square set, and leveled the vice so at 0* the bubble was level. Then I bent the bracket up until the bracket up until it read 8* with the bubble level. Simple.

I picked 8* to help the actuating rod angle. Wasn't happy with the angle on the factory setup...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/IMAG0740.jpg

I also took some paper, and made templates for the three filler pieces. got one cut, but the cut off wheel was pissing me off, so I took a break...

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Got the pieces cut.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...s/IMAG0755.jpg

As I was getting ready to go and fight with the cut off wheel, and as I was getting ready a long time friend of the family showed up. He brought with him a band saw! He had gotten it as a freebie, but never used it. So he passed it on. :)

It made the filler pieces butter to cut. I'm gonna made a slide piece to make square cuts for tubing, and such.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...s/IMAG0750.jpg

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Nice! That ought to do it!

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Haha, it made it a piece of cake! I was very pleased!

Here is the welded bracket!
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...s/IMAG0763.jpg

I just gotta give it a couple hammer whacks to fix some slight warping...

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Nice welds!

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

Dang, that's a great job, man. I like to see what guys can do by using creativity and know-how. And yeah, those are some killer welds. Excellent work with that rod, too.

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

I'll tell my Dad you guys like his welding. :chevy: We were taking a break from a little exhaust work on a Vue when we welded it, and he volunteered himself. :lol: But, if anyone can do a good job, he can...

The rod was a piece of cake. I'll have feedback on how it works soon. :metal:

Tomorrow I hope to get the booster on the truck, and see if all this hassle is going to pay off!

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

My '83 has a hydroboost system and I love it.... Except for that one time the ps pump belt broke and I lost the brake and steering boost while merging on I5 during the evening commute.
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

The booster is in, and the pedal works great!

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0773.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0774.jpg

Next is cleaning the bowls out, and hooking the lines up. Then getting the clutch working. THEN I am hooking a battery up, and getting this sucker running! Tired of waiting...

Re: 1981/86 K10 Short-Bread
 

I was having trouble drilling out the bell crank. Turns out it is hardened a bit... So I took a die grinder, and bur bit to wobble out the hole... Good enough... Now I need to go to the hardware store, and pickup some 1/2 fine thread nuts for the joints.

I also cleaned some gunk out of the master cylinder, and wrote down a couple "don't forgets."

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...t/IMAG0815.jpg

Also brought over a 1980 Honda ATC. It is my uncles, and needs the engine gone over, and put in.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/IMAG0814.jpg

Still waiting to get power back so I can weld the headers, and get them on...