Re: Steering coupler or Rag joint
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Just checking to make sure my process was following the same path concerning whether the 'binding agent' used between the 2 halves of the shaft needed to be completely melted/removed or if you were just minimizing the heat just enough to collapse/expand for the install. The videos I watched showed both approaches. I'll prob melt the binding agent out as much as possible & clean up each half to allow easier assembly/testing for the final install alignment. Once that's all verified, I'll prep it for final install to finish things up. |
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The rag joint failure @ <7k miles was my concern. I know my box leaks; and that fluid prob soaked the rubber material accelerating its demise but that was still way too easy & soon for it to come apart like it did. |
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My box is leaking, well worn, and my rag is bad. When I drop it and get some sticky tires on the front I'm asking for problems If I don't make some changes. |
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Cooked the binding agent (plastic, glue, ??) out today w/no problem. Tomorrow I'll work on the install. I needed an assistant for the work as I'm replacing the driver side rubber brake line while I'm in the wheel-well.
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Looks good. It's worth the effort.
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I wasn't able to get to it as my assistant had other plans. I picked up my brake line & 2 other small pieces of hardware I needed to swap out (all while I'm in the well to replace the steering shaft).
Plan is to get things together tonight & determine the finishing touches for the install. Until then, here's an image of the 'post melt-out' glue/binding agent from the manufacturing process: |
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Wow, yours came apart much cleaner than mine. Mine was an oozing, popping, snarling mess.
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I clamped a pickle fork into a vice on the ground, clamped the column end of the new XJ shaft to the handle, & heated about a 4" length of the shaft where the 2 halves met. After a few mins, I was able to easily pull the box end of the shaft apart from the column end. I tried wiping off the residual 'glue' but it didn't like that & basically kind of smeared. So I grabbed a hard metal scraper & w/a couple of hard hits it sliced through & fell off. The binding material definitely feels like some sort of plastic. |
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Got the new XJ shaft installed today. Still need some follow-up stuff as my hardware selection failed so I used the supplied 'black oxide' stuff for now.
It was too dark for pics so I'll post some up tomorrow. Initial feel is good. |
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I picked up some new hardware today. My standard MO is to replace black oxide hardware w/stainless if/when possible. I purchased some SS M8 bolts for this project but they wanted to gall when passing over the shafts @ each end.
So I dropped down a size (now 1/4") to allow easily passing the threaded end of the hardware through. They are now being secured w/a locknut on the end of the bolts vs. relying on the metric threads @ the shaft ends. I put the 1/4" bolt in place & couldn't pull the ends off so that works for me & is easier for servicing. I drilled through the larger/outer portion of the of the new shaft. I figured I would provide a way to 're-bind' the 2 halves should I decide it's necessary. I played around w/a couple ideas & hot-melt glue would most likely be the binding agent if I decide to do that. For now I just have some plastic plugs over the holes. |
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If you have access to a welder...?
I plan on tack welding a nut over that hole and using a setscrew with thread locker. The only purpose of the plastic inside was to keep it tight and from rattling while still allowing it to collapse in a front end collision and making you a shiskebob. |
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I also have considered incorporating a set-screw arrangement to keep the shaft halves more solid while still allowing the ability to collapse upon impact. If you did a set screw, you would want it closer to the end of the outer shaft (White circle & X). That way upon impact, the inner shaft can still slide inside the outer w/o that notched area coming into contact. I'll likely do one method or the other for re-binding the 2 halves if I feel it necessary. The set-screw is the better/easier choice for future removal for whatever reason as it can simply be unscrewed & the 2 halves will easily slide apart vs. having to re-melt glue to get them apart. I did use the smaller hardware to eliminate the need to file the gear-box & column end stubs down (to allow the hardware to easily slide across the stub). The smaller threaded end of the SAE SS hardware easily passed through the metric tapped portion of the clamps. The slightly fatter shank of the SAE hardware helped fill the notch area @ the gear box end despite being a smaller diameter bolt (I couldn't pull the gear-box side of the shaft off by hand w/the 1/4" hardware loosely in place). It's possible you could force it off if you tried hard enough I suppose. Hopefully this makes sense. |
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I may run them loose for the time being (as you have them setup) and then will decide the next steps from there. I may have missed it as I do see you calling out you drilled through the outer shaft, but wanted to confirm you did not drill through the inner shaft and that is just a black sharpie mark to use as a guide to line everything up when sliding the shafts together. |
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I am looking at doing this on my '86. If I understand right, I need to get a '84-'96 jeep cherokee xj steering shaft? "melt" the plastic from inside (about an inch inside from the "slip joint" area? install a set screw to "lock" the 2 pieces from movement (other than in accident)?
thanks!! |
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all, so I ordered this(https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CWA-52078556) shaft and received it this weekend. I removed my old shaft and cleaned each end up. I did a "dry" fit tonight (no modification) to the jeep shaft. it appears to be about an 3/4" too long. it is so tempting to try to force it on....:lol: . so I guess my next step is to torch (melt) the inside rubber/plastic) to separate the pieces? I do wanna ask what the set screw is for? is it to "lock" the pieces once installed? follow up is I guess that the outer piece is thick enough to grab a set screw?
thanks again for the responses....;) |
Re: Steering coupler or Rag joint
As you know the shaft has a inner and outer sleeve that permits the slip fit. If I recall the overlap of those shafts was quite generous like 6-8 inches. The length is set by the plastic that is injected at the factory. You have to melt that plastic to allow for length adjustment.
The setscrew is what takes the function of the missing plastic. Although it won't really fix the length it keeps the two pieces from rattling and getting loose and sloppy. I never did this with mine and it's nice and tight but, it will loosen up with time. I will spot weld a nut to the outer shaft over a 1/4" hole so I can install a short bolt. I doubt there's enough meat on the outer shaft to hold a setscrew by itself. You don't want it going thru both shafts preventing it from collapsing in an accident. |
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the nut on the outer shaft is a good thought as well - although I am not sure if I would be willing to trust my welding skills to make it "for sure" secure...:lol: either way i know now that the next thing for tonight is to melt the plastic :ito: thanks guys!!! ;) |
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Don't mean to open a dead post, but i am very interested in doing this with my truck. Just wondering if it would work for a 1968 4 speed column. I was thinking of using this but not sure if this is the same as what everybody else used.
https://www.amazon.com/labwork-Unive...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== |
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I'm not sure on the compatibility between the ends for a '68 4spd standard column though. That will take some researching to accurately know unless someone chimes in that has done a similar truck set-up. |
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Don't quote me but I think it works on 73 and up, but not 67-72.
Those old Jeeps are always in the pick a part around here--I wouldn't buy a new one. |
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