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-   -   1966 C10 Daily Driver (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=697340)

Lokin4AReason 12-06-2016 12:42 AM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
its coming along nicely ....

Captainfab 12-06-2016 02:00 AM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
So now you have the CPP engine mount brackets in the forward location and the engine mounts in the forward most location on the ICT adapter plates? What is the difference in oil capacity between the LS3 oil pan and the Muscle Car pan?

KenAdams 12-06-2016 09:44 AM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab (Post 7788222)
So now you have the CPP engine mount brackets in the forward location and the engine mounts in the forward most location on the ICT adapter plates?

Correct. Yea, so I actually called CPP yesterday about the mounts because I was beginning to think I was crazy. Why would they make them to fit the front holes and not the back ones? I was less than impressed with their customer service. After sitting on hold forever, someone picked up the phone and grunted something at me, when I asked if they were "Tech Line" they said "Sure, I can be." What kind of response is that, I called the tech line advertised on the website, and I got someone who is running double duty as the janitor and the tech line? Anyways the person said something along the lines of they fit front or rear and if I want to put them on the rear all I have to do is drill a hole and either way I have to pancake my crossmember. At that point I hung up and decided I will never buy anything from CPP again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab (Post 7788222)
What is the difference in oil capacity between the LS3 oil pan and the Muscle Car pan?

I am not sure, I believe 3.

-The specifications for the crate engine say: 5.5-quart (with filter) but the original oil pan (12649748) is listed as 8 quarts on a couple websites.
-The new oil pan (19212593) is listed as 5 quarts everywhere.

KenAdams 12-06-2016 10:53 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Ran into hiccup. The slave cylinder disconnect doesn't clear the transmission. Going to mull it over and guess die grind some clearance into it tomorrow unless I decide on a different route... just hate the idea of grinding on a brand new transmission.

http://i.imgur.com/nBQStByl.jpg

lumpy63 12-06-2016 11:33 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Of all the companies I deal with I have found cpps customer service to be the absolute worst in the industry :devil:I have used lots of their products, seems that the folks designing their stuff have some form of intelligence but between a lot of the components being manufactured overseas and the morons on the tech line + the crappy ship time when I have to buy their stuff I order from Summit:waah:

SCOTI 12-07-2016 06:23 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by KenAdams (Post 7750026)
Thought I would post the setup for the frame shortening. Fingers crossed I can get it cut up and welded on Wednesday.

12 inches out of the center of the frame, 8 out of the rear, then I am going to take a single 20" cut out of the long bed stepside.

http://i.imgur.com/xpX6RK7l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LB0mNUql.jpg

I know you already cut the frame down but in my head the 20" out of the middle makes me think things won't be in the same position.

The standard 14" out of the middle + 6" off the end shortens the frame to SWB dimensions while keeping the wheelbase & frame kick-up similar to a SWB. Cutting 20" out of the middle & moving everything forward yields the same overall frame length but seems to me it shifts the frame kick-up over the rear end 6" farther forward which in my head impacts the wheelbase.

Am I missing something??

KenAdams 12-07-2016 06:28 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 7789751)
I know you already cut the frame down but in my head the 20" out of the middle makes me think things won't be in the same position.

The standard 14" out of the middle + 6" off the end shortens the frame to SWB dimensions while keeping the wheelbase & frame kick-up similar to a SWB. Cutting 20" out of the middle & moving everything forward yields the same overall frame length but seems to me it shifts the frame kick-up over the rear end 6" farther forward which in my head impacts the wheelbase.

Am I missing something??

I took 12 out of the center of the frame and 8 off the rear of the frame. Going to take 20" of the center of the bed. Went from a 127 to 115 wheel base.

KenAdams 12-07-2016 11:45 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
So five minutes with a file and I was able to get the slave cylinder to fit. It still erks me that I didn't fit out of the box. The slot for the bleeder lines up perfect, but for the quick disconnect it is still quite off a bit.

Guess I could keep filing but did enough so it fits with a little to spare:
http://i.imgur.com/rH7OkuEl.jpg

The cut out for the bleeder lines up perfect:
http://i.imgur.com/uLD0l8kl.jpg

In proggress...
http://i.imgur.com/0klQlZfl.jpg

KenAdams 12-11-2016 03:23 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Made some progress this weekend, pictures below. This is going to be an interesting week. I have to fly 24 to perform 4 hours worth of work. Then I am taking off two weeks after that. Hopefully lots of progress before the new year. :cool:

Hung the rear coil overs:
http://i.imgur.com/6YVfal7l.jpg

Threw on the harness:
http://i.imgur.com/0FqIu81l.jpg

The CabLifter2000:
http://i.imgur.com/2ZBuxrQl.jpg

The cab back on:
http://i.imgur.com/S8KDv1ll.jpg

northern 85 12-12-2016 06:58 AM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Nice!!!!!!!!

KenAdams 12-18-2016 07:49 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Got my Boyd's fuel tank in, it's an absolute work of art. After hours and hours of contemplating it I've decided I am going to put the original oil pan back on and shift the motor mount to the back holes. When I wonder why later I decided because:
1. The original oil pan is 8qt vs 5qt. I can only assume the 3 extra qt provide better cooling and lubrication capacity.
2. On the LS3 two of the transmission bell housing bolts mount to the oil pan. The muscle car oil pan doesn't have one of these bolts. Everything I've read says it is okay, but it leaves an unsupported section where the bell housing touches the block on the passenger side. Probably fine structurally, but I can only imagine it would make a vibration noise one day that I'de never be able to figure out.

And the garage is once again cluttered while I take everything back apart.

http://i.imgur.com/IziHdMwl.jpg

northern 85 12-19-2016 09:56 AM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Nice, i agree on the boyds tank, its a shame to hide them, work of art for sure. i love where your going on this build!

KenAdams 12-22-2016 08:18 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Did a ton of work to end up at the same spot minus 2 and a half inches. Removed the trans, removed the muscle car oil pan, installed the original oil pan, installed the trans, moved mounts to the back two holes, drilled a new bottom hole for the mount, and reinstalled the motor and trans. I put on the original headers as well. Haven't decided if I am going to use them or not, at the point where I am tired of spending money though and still need to buy quite a few items just to crank it.

http://i.imgur.com/BuOmt0Gl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Q5TSSCKl.jpg

Close up fitment, about enough to stick my fingers between:
http://i.imgur.com/nvUmkyel.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1pd9yv5l.jpg

Under:
http://i.imgur.com/zlRm8p9l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/naHS4qAl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gMOGMZWl.jpg

Captainfab 12-23-2016 01:49 AM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Looks good to me. Just curious if you have checked your trans output shaft angle to see how it compares to your pinion angle?

KenAdams 12-23-2016 08:45 AM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab (Post 7803117)
Looks good to me. Just curious if you have checked your trans output shaft angle to see how it compares to your pinion angle?

I did the first time I had the motor in, and know that I am going to have to shim it. Everything is still in the mocked-up stage. I need to get the front suspension on then I'll start deciding on what all my final angles will be. Right now the motor and trans are fitting it looks like the frame will be +3 and motor will be -3, but I would like to get both closer to level. The limitation I am running into is the driveshaft clearing the cross member. I am going to move the cross member to the top of the frame rails to gain another 1/2 clearance, and am thinking about going through the trouble of making my own motor mounts. What I really need is someone to cut me some motor mounts that drop the motor about an inch. Are you cutting everything with a waterjet? What format do you need the CAD files in? :)

http://i.imgur.com/twpXos9l.jpg

KenAdams 01-15-2017 08:18 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
In full on assembly mode this weekend, on the way to cranking it, crossing fingers next weekend.

-Got my DeWitts radiator in (pn# 6239017M) and mounted using the original hardware and new rubber. It is a thing of beauty.
-Bought a repro tri plus radiator support and battery holder. I am in short supply of hours so and mine needed too much work. I couldn't justify the cost differential of labor and powder coating to fix the original.
-Dropped off a ton on parts to the powder coater this week: inner feasder wells, pedal assembly, brake booster mount, drag link and a bunch of small brackets. Should get them back on Wednesday. I really need the Captain Fab's brake booster/clutch mount back so I can depress the clutch so I can crank the truck.
-I finally got my Boyds tank mounted. I made my own install kit from some 1/8" sbr rubber, and 6 - .5"x1.5" bolts.
-Lastly, I plumbed the fuel system. I used Russel on my last car so I decided I'de try Earls this time. I'll let you know in 10 years how it stands up. I went the braided line to stainless to braided line route. Looks good. I really impressed myself with the stainless line. I bought a new Rigid 3/8 and 3/16(for brakes and clutch lines) 600 series tubing benders. They are nice so nice...

New core support:
http://i.imgur.com/DNC46ltl.jpg

Pretty bent stainless line, and fish plate I forgot to take pictures of earlier:
http://i.imgur.com/eP378KCl.jpg

Tank to filter/regulator:
http://i.imgur.com/TDRWbfNl.jpg

Sweet bulkhead fitting from stainless to flex line:
http://i.imgur.com/gSNCKswl.jpg

Captainfab 01-16-2017 01:37 AM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Very nice work :thumbs:

LoRollinLS 01-16-2017 01:15 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Wow, great build! I just found this thread and am loving it. I can't wait to see this truck running!

YOLO 01-16-2017 04:12 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
loving it. all caught up. MORE.....MORE......MORE!

66ChevyMax 01-16-2017 08:43 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Looking great, LS's Motors just look sweet in these trucks!

Captainfab 01-17-2017 01:33 AM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Did you get someone to cut those new engine mounts you were wanting?

KenAdams 01-17-2017 08:19 AM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab (Post 7829070)
Did you get someone to cut those new engine mounts you were wanting?

Yes & no. I sold my 3 axis CNC mill when I moved to Virginia, my wife said I could buy another one as soon as the truck is officially my daily driver. Plan is to finish the truck, get my new mill, and then I am back in the parts making business.

KenAdams 01-23-2017 02:58 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Assembly, assembly, assembly. Everything is a mess, parts all over the place. I decided to powder coat the valve covers now so now assembly is going in reverse.

Driveshaft came in, and I realized I still dont have a transmission crossmember... I swear I ordered it... I was sweating the driveshaft coming in. I measured 100 times, but still had that fear in the back of my head that I mismeasured or wrote something down wrong. I bought a 3" aluminum from Dennys, took about a month to get it. I am apparently in a driveshaft desert, couldn't find anyone around me to make one.

http://i.imgur.com/xxPgzPGl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rg1pfnll.jpg

I've been playing the back and forth game with Jegs looking for a straight water neck/thermostat housing for a LS3. The Spectre 4932 is the one that ended up being right. Advance Auto let me spend an hour looking through their hose wall. I found a Dayco D71852 that fits almost perfect (with a little trimming). It's 1.5 on both ends and the height for the z is dead on. ICT Billet sells a hose that works perfect for a heater core loop untill I get the heater set up.

http://i.imgur.com/pAUuCA4l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/KrRew2Vl.jpg

I splurged and bought the GM (PN#19301246) air intake kit. I looked and looked, but couldn't figure out if the Spectre intakes had the bung for PCV on it so I gave up and ordered the Chevrolet Performance Kit. (I know the MAF sensor tube is mounted backwards). I'll eventually trim it to length when I get the fenders mounted.

http://i.imgur.com/KELHVyDl.jpg

KenAdams 01-26-2017 08:47 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
Hoses in, system filled, and currently pressure checking. I made a change and put a hard piece to clear the air intake a little better. I was able to find 4 oem steam clip hoses at the junk yard too.

http://i.imgur.com/ngHCevSl.jpg

Valve covers are back too, everything is buttoned up, torqued up, and filled up. I've primed the motor all I've got to do is connect the clutch and basic electrical so I can crank it this weekend.

http://i.imgur.com/6rIO76Bl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/uKoV8VWl.jpg

KenAdams 01-28-2017 08:31 PM

Re: 1966 C10 Daily Driver
 
:metal: Motor cranked and running. :metal:


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