Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

If the engine you're getting has 126k miles on it, I personally wouldn't do any of that stuff to it, with the exception of the oil pan for fitment issues. I mean, if you went out and bought a 2004 Silverado, and it only had 126k miles on it, you'd think of it as a fairly low mileage vehicle these days, and you wouldn't touch it. I understand not wanting to have problems down the road, but in all likelyhood, you won't have any issues with what you listed. Water pumps generally last longer than the mileage it's at, but even so, they are an easy repair. Front and rear seals are long lasting too, unlike the old small block stuff, and there's the potential of making problems you didn't have before by improper installation of them as there is no alignment fixtures on the engine and require special tools to install. You can do them without the tools, but in my opinion at the miles the engine has, not worth the risk. When you replace the oil pan you will have to replace the pick up tube, which should come with a new O ring, replace that and be sure not to pinch or tear it in any way and you should be fine, that O ring is usually the only thing that causes people trouble on swaps. This is all my opinion however, you can spend your money any way you see fit, just throwing it out there.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

I appreciate your input. I just don't want to have to worry about leaks or any issues down the road. If the rear seal will last to 200k or so, it'll be a long time before I get there in this truck. The less I have to replace, the better.

When I replace the oil pan, I know I've seen a few options. In my list, I have the H3 Hummer oil pan written down. Is that a good one to go with? As far as the pick up tube, I'm assuming I get one for the same vehicle that the pan comes from, right? Due to my lack of knowledge, would I get an oil pump, pickup tube, and pan from the same type of vehicle - whatever that may be?

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Most parts on an LS engine will go 200k with ease. As for the oil pan, the Hummer pan, or the "Muscle Car" pan as GM calls it is about an inch or so shallower than the truck pan, and may hang down a tad below the crossmember depending on mounts, so as long as you're not slammed on the ground will work fine. If you buy the oil pan as a kit, the pick up tube will come with it, which is what i would recommend.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

An inch doesn't sound like much, but I know can be a lot, as well. My truck is dropped 3.5"/5" with spindles, springs. What's a good pan to use for that? I'm assuming the truck pan won't work, but maybe it will?

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

It depends on your mounts somewhat. The Hummer pan is what I use in my trucks that are similarly lowered and have never had any problems. If you want a shallower pan, the CTS-V pan is what you want, but it's a much more expensive pan for some reason.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

LS1 Nova hit the nail on the head. If you aren't going to open it up enough to do a cam or something, I would replace the oil pan and go on with the swap. A h3/GM muscle car pan are good options, holley 302-1 is another popular choice, as well as a 98-01 F body pan. You can find the f body pans with pick up and windage tray for like 150 bucks if you look in the right places. Also, need to source a dip stick and tube for the application the pan is for, GM made many many variations. Here is a good source of pan info https://www.improvedracing.com/gm-ls-oil-pan-dimensions

My sierra had 197k on it when I pulled the heads to swap a cam and the cylinders looks great. So I wouldn't be scared of anything on your list. Both the front and rear crank seals can be replaced easily enough on the engine, as long as you don't remove the cover, if you remove the timing or rear cover you should pick up a set of alignment tools, they're cheap and easy enough to find or rent *note install the seal AFTER aligning the cover*. I'd reuse the valve cover gaskets if you're pulling them to inspect, I have many times and they are fine. I reused water pump gaskets before and they seal up good, no reason to pull that unless you're going to pull the timing cover and r&r the oil pump, which I don't think is 100% needed. If you go that far you need a new balancer bolt, and they get torqued to like 70ftlb's then another 270*

Look at the rear most bolts on the exhaust manifolds, they always break. Pull all the bolts, others might break too. Any that do that aren't flush should back out with vise grips. Any broken off flush, weld a nut to them and pull them out, easy peasy. Dorman makes a manifold bolt kit, works great, get the metal GM style manifold gaskets, the fiber ones suck.

I'd do plugs and wires if they look OE, check the exhaust manifolds and R&R with new metal gaskets and bolts, remove the little plastic/foam cover on the back of the intake the makes it a pain in the ass to r&r the oil sender, and watch the OPS when you swing the motor in!!

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Thanks guys! That makes me feel better!

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

One tip I seen on manifold bolts is to tighten slightly then back off by wrench and do not use impact on them until they are all broken loose

The guy would tighten then loosen then re tighten all bolts in exhaust manifold before he would remove them his theory was keep the manafold as flat as it could be until all bolts could move and lesson binding

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Good point, definitely break all the good ones loose by hand. I've never tightened then loosened on the LS's, just get on em square, smooth even pull. If they break then usually it's just the head and a stud remover like this https://www.amazon.com/Kauplus-Metri...omotive&sr=1-8 grips them walks em right out. Dorman 03413B is what you want for the bolt kit. No need to get anything fancier than those unless you like spending money. Also GM 12617944 for the manifold gaskets, you'll need two.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Took delivery of the new (to me) setup this past Thursday! I got everything with it, too. All wires, computers, hookups, O2 sensors (and the exhaust pipes they are attached to), gas pedal, front accessories - all of it.

Now, since I have no idea what I'm doing, it's time to figure out what I need to do now. :D

I still have to get the old crossmember out. It was welded in, so I need to figure out how to get under there and cut it out with my grinder. After that, I'm guessing I can go ahead and get the motor/trans in the truck, right? Then I can go through and wire everything and do the fuel lines/setup? Main reason I'd like to go that route - I borrowed the engine hoist, and my friend is going to need it before long to do work on one of his cars.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Required pictures...

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

nice ill be following along and taking notes...i will be doing the same swap soon

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

What crossmember is welded in?

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Whoever did the motor/trans swap before I got it, moved the transmission crossmember and welded it to the frame - not very well, I might add. of the 4 welds that are on there, 1 on each side was broke loose already. I just need to get under there and grind off the other welds to take it out.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

So it is the trans crossmember? Try not to ruin it as you can use it for your new engine and trans.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

I thought about that, but it wasn't quite right with the 700r4 that was in it. I tried pulling the trans pan to drain the fluid and couldn't get to the rear bolts due to clearance with the crossmember. I already picked up an aftermarket member from CJ Pony Parts. Got it on a Black Friday sale for $50. It bolts in to the OEM location, but is formed to fit the 4l60e/80e transmissions - specifically for LS swaps.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

I bought one of those but ended up modifying it to more conveniently route the exhaust.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

maybe i missed it but what swap mounts for the motor will you be using?

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Got some mounts from ICT Billet. I don't know anything about them, or if they are any good. But, I figured for $35, it wouldn't hurt to try them. They have multiple mounting points for forward/rear adjustment.

https://www.amazon.com/Billet-Bracke...t-items&sr=1-1

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Got the transmission crossmember cut out over the weekend. Went to mount my adapter plates to the engine, and realized the "norm" for this process (I guess) - I'm going to have to remove the a/c compressor. I knew it would be an issue, as I've read about it before, but I was hopeful that I would get lucky. :D

Anyway, I think that's all I need to do, right. Pull the a/c compressor and bracket, pull the exhaust manifolds off, and fit the motor in?

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Yup! are you setting in for good or are you pulling it back out? I'd get the old broken hardware out of the head before putting in chassis for the final time.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Hopefully it is going in place and staying. I'd rather not pull the motor back out after I get it in there. But, maybe I need to?

What broken hardware are you talking about?

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

I think he's talking about the broken exhaust manifold bolts. Those are way easier to do outside the truck.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Gotcha. I am planning to pull the exhaust manifolds,and the a/c, off before I put the motor in. After reading a lot of threads, neither one seem to fit as it is. So, for the time being, I'll go without a/c, and look for different option on the exhaust.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Yup, was referring to the broken manifold bolts still in the head, much easier to work on with it in front of you, not sprawled out in an engine bay. .

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

So, went to measure my frame rails last night. This never even registered that something was different. But, I realized that the frame rail has been "adjusted" to make some clearance. Don't know how they did this, or why, but maybe it'll give me some room to keep the a/c?

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

That bend in the frame is factory and if the engine is in just the right place. the AC compressor fits nicely there.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Yep, I'm pretty sure that bend in the frame is for fuel pump access on original engines, they're all that way.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

OK. Good to know. Thanks, guys.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Looking at this oil pan kit from Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performanc...QAvD_BwE#qaTab

Anyone used it, or know for sure if it will fit in the trucks?

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

I would set my engine in place first and see how low the truck pan hangs down then look at pan dimensions to see what will fit better

Placement how far forword or back and how high the engine sits will all play a large factor on which pan you will need

Give two strangers the same c10 and the same ls motor chances are both trucks will have different placement of the engines needing different clearances for the oil pan

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Well, by my estimates (took some rough measurements last night), the current pan drops below the crossmember about 2.5"-3". Now, a normal truck height, that might be ok. But, my truck is lowered 3.5" in front, 5" in the rear.

I don't really want to put the motor in to see if it will work, then have to take it back out and order new parts. I want to have it ready to go, install the motor, and be done with it. I'm borrowing an engine hoist that I need to get back to it's owner, and have to have help and/or guidance putting the motor in.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Here are snapshots from a post I read on facebook. I think I am going to go this route on my swap.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

I've used that pan in a couple of trucks. I make my own engine mounts, so take that into consideration, but it usually hangs down roughly 1/2" below the crossmember. That pan is about an inch to inch and a half or so shallower than the stock truck pan. You also won't be able to get both bottom bellhousing bolts to bolt into it, which is fine, so don't freak out about that.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

Had a friend do this years ago, the noise was terrible! You couldn't put enough insulation on the tank to not hear it even with the truck running. But if you are fine with that, it will work.

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

from what ive been reading, the Cadillac cts-v pan is the best bet for lowered trucks. thats probably what i will end up using since mine has air suspension

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

The other good pan is the holley pan or its fleabay knock off lots simaler to the fbody pan but the sump forward is shorter

The muscle car pan is deeper then the fbody pan

Personally I will set it in place and order from there or just go with the holley pan which is like the fbody pan 2.0

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

The f body or one of the holley (or copy) swap pans is your best bet for fitment. I don't know who said the CTS-V pan was best, it's almost an inch deeper than the F-body. I'm pretty sure I've posted this here before, but here is a great link with all the pan dimensions. https://www.improvedracing.com/gm-ls-oil-pan-dimensions

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

its not like im making it up. ive personally havent used it, but its all over the board as an option for lowered trucks.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hlight=ctv+pan

Re: Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!
 

The CTS-V pan is closer in physical shape to an old small block, thats why it fits well. The F body pan, while not deep, has a very long sump which requires the engine to be set back further.