Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Rebuilt Rearend with 3:42 Posi gears should be good with muncie 4-speed

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

more to come soon

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Looking really good!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you, from you that means alot!
I know you have heard this a thousand times, but damn sir your stuff is just unreal, works perfect, looks fantastic, thank you.
Oh damn, i need to get a pic of the power steering box mounted with your mount, i will get that done.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I've heard nothing but good things about EZ Airride, pretty sure when I convert mine to air I'll be using his kit. Loving the progress, it looks immaculate. Also, I'm digging the flat black/gloss combo on the wheels! :metal:

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir.
Yea, Steve with EZ Air Ride is awesome. He will honestly tell you what you need, he will not over sell something, and he is always there if you need, questions and such.
The rims, it was interesting because i nor the guy selling them really knew that this was how they are, and now he is looking at a set for this car. They really are a cool look, not cheap but not expensive really either.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok all, I am stuck and frustrated.

Here is my issue. I have CPP 2.5 drop spindles, CaptainFab's power steering conversion with new power steering box installed, new pitman arm installed and a 1966 C10 non power steering center link.
I have a full front end rebuild kit, i mean everything from new ball joints, to bushings and such for the stock upper and lower arms, and so on. I am not sure what year or years the kit is from and no i cannot find where i bought the kit from, but anyways the parts all put together will not work. The center link is hitting the frame.
So, here is where i am. I will buy a new kit, whatever i need, i just do not know what works. As you can tell i am not good at front ends, i am learning. So, any help here is greatly appreciated!!

Thanks

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

ok, so i went out and took another look and here is what i found. If i move the idler arm forward about 1.5" everything seems to line up. Please correct me if i am wrong, but will this work?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Verify you don't have the center link flipped. It's a common mistake.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you Scoti, i did. You cannot flip it as the hole in it for the pitman arm is tapered and will only go on one way, from what i can tell. I did try it though and that is what i found.
Otherwise, what do you think?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Did you drill the 2nd set of Idler bracket holes or were they already in the frame?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

One hole exits, other did not, yet.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ahh.... Your statement confused me but then I looked @ your reference pic again & noticed only 1 bolt securing the Idler bracket.

That is weird. The holes are placed to keep the steering pivot points parallel. I've never looked into Captainfabs power steering adapter set-up to know specifics but I'm assuming it doesn't alter anything so the Idler position shouldn't change.

Something doesn't seem right w/that so keep scrutinizing the parts compatibility. I'm wondering if you need a later center-link? When I did my early drum-to-disc brake swaps in the 90's I swapped to 71-72 center-links to keep the tie-rods consistent. I never investigated if the center-links were physically different beyond that.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

i am waiting for a response from CaptainFab on what kit or parts he suggest to use.
I did find that POL has a specific Pitarm arm made for the power steering conversion. It may be shorter than the standard 1970 pitarm i have, but that still may cause issues with how and where the idler arm is mounted, this i am not sure of, so i get whatever CaptainFab suggests.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I would verify if there's a difference & then ask POL why their set-up requires a 'specific' (different vs stock manual-to-power replacement p/n) pitman.
Manual to power steering swaps require different pitman arms from the factory. I would find out if their Pitman arm is different beyond that.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

With the steering box located using the included template, the stock draglink should not be touching the crossmember with the idler arm in it's original location. Do you have the pitman arm on all the way? And the pitman arm is something special from POL?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you CaptainFab for your reply.
To be honest, i have not tightened it (Pitman) all the way. I think i know where you are going with the this. If it is all the tight, it will raise the bar height, getting it above the flat part of the crossmember and closer to the notched, angled back part. I will try that immediately today. i will owe you and Scotti a big apology if that is all it is. I also sent you a PM on your question.
The front end CCP lowering kit is from CPP, it is for drop spindle disc conversion for 1963 - 1970 C10. The full front end rebuild kit is for 1965-1966 Chevy C10.
Now my only issue may be the tie rods ends that go into the spindle may not be the right size, but they seem to fit good. Thoughts?

Thanks again to all of you for your help!!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well damn! I got that damn Pitman arm about 1/2 way, using an air racket even! Arm still Hits! So, with all that said, mu frustration level at a high, I found that POL sells a direct bolt on Rack & Pinion system that works with airbags and lowered trucks. No frame alterations required, so..... i am thinking i will go that route. Also less parts on the front suspension and it costs $886.00, i think i may just order this and call it all good. I will have a bunch of extra parts for sale for sure.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so i pulled the trigger and bought the No Modification Required bolt in Powered Rack & Pinion from POL. its like, if i am going to do this, go all out, to some extent.

Also, i bought an aluminium finned differential cover from Jegs. Well, when i put the rear all the up into the c-notch the track arm hits the cover, bad. So, i am thinking that i will just need to stick with stock. Sucks because i really like it, but oh well. I may see if i could grind off part of the fins, but i just hate doing this kind of thing. If it does not work the way it was maid, maybe that is a sign to just go with stock.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Do those CPP tubular control arms move the spindle rearward even just a little? That would cause the interference. Is the pitman arm you got from POL an exact OEM replacement? Those aftermarket aluminum differential covers require a panhard bar with a jog in it. Someone makes one, I just don't remember who.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I believe CPP made one w/the bend to clear the finned alum covers.

As far as upgrading to POL's R&P set-up? After the issues noted thus far... I would have some concerns about any of their products until it's determined WTH is going on w/the current replacement parts.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Awe, you know what, that may be it! I know that the arms do have an adjustment in them for the bagged issues that can come up with dropping it.
The Pitman arm is a direct replacement part.

I did though last night purchase the rack and pinion kit for POL. I really have wanted one but they always require frame cutting and rework and not that this would stop me, but the price was typically $1400.00 or more. This one is "Direct bolt on" and was only $900.00. I say only as if it was nothing, it is alot, but for correct steering, im in.

As for the bent arm, i did not know that. I may just look for that one.

Thanks CaptainFab!!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well, I think CaptainFab hit a good one on the head. The CPP Tubular Arms i think adjust the spindle slightly and this may also have an effect after things are bolted up. But honestly, i think it is actually the pitman arm. I cannot get it all the way onto the shaft. I used a dam rattle gun, my extension and still it just stopped about an inch away from where i think it should be. With that said, i could get it there, use heat, use a larger breaker bar or a "helper" on the end of my breaker bar. Either way, i just frustrated with it honestly and maybe it was just enough for me to go ahead and pull the trigger on the rack.
Just as a note, the entire rebuild kit is from EBAY, the upper and lower arms and Spindle are from CPP, so it could be several factors here honestly I hate piece together parts from different company's on things like this. Its just like the diff cover. It will not fit without a bend in it, but the jack wagons that sell the cover do not tell you that!
Anyways, its just been a weekend. I am done with this Covid crap also...
Anyways, Seriously, Thank You to you and CaptainFab!! You two have been awesome help recently. There are alot of others that have helped also, but recently you two have been great, so Thanks again. God Bless

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well, as you and CaptainFab said, there is a bent arm, just for this and the bagged issue. Summit has it, so its now on order. LOL. Again, Thanks Scoti and CaptainFab.
Damn, i be selling alot of new stuff... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

From what I've seen/read in articles, if anything the CPP lower arms should be shifted forward to provide the better Caster numbers.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

WOW! Very nice build! Great work!
I am just checking in to see what's going on!
Just out of curiosity, earlier someone commented to flip the center steering link, and you said that you couldn't because the holes are tapered....but I am pretty sure that if you flipped it 180º end-for-end it might work, because the holes are offset from the centerline of the rod.
I am pretty sure that I did this once... But that is probably all behind you now...
Stay well!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I did try that, but the hole sizes are different for the pitman arm and idler arm. I appreciate your idea though, but, I did order a new rack and pinion setup

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I have a few updates from this past weekend.

So, i was going to use CaptainFabs power steering conversion bracket which is actually awesome, but after some frustrations with what i bought for suspenson upgrades i decided that it is best if just went with Rack & Pinion. So, POL sells a complete bolt in kit with no major frame modifications required and works with Bags and lowered, so i went that direction. Pics of that to come.
Also, I had the stock Rear rebuilt completely, all new internals, new Posi, new 3:42 gears and then i got a nice aluminium cover. Well i did no know that if you do this and lower the truck alot (ie see c-notch and bags) that the standard adjustable trac arm will not work with the aftermarket cover! So, CPP sells a bent and longer arm that does work, so its on the way now, pics to come.
But with that all said, i got the front and rear roll bars in, both CPP.
Also, the frame brace has two mounting holes to select from, if you are lowering the truck alot, go with the set of holes towards the rear of the truck, not the front set, lesson learned here. But after adjusting that and mounting the trailing arms in the top holes on the frame brace, it lined up very well.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

few more pics, the rear and front roll bars installed

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

couple more

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

What is your 'plan' for ride height (how far away from the top of the c-notch do you anticipate the axle tube will have)?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Right now i anticipate it to be about 1.5 to 2 inches from the top of the C-Notch. I have bump stops that i think i can cut at a height that i want. My assumption is 2" at this point.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

So.... You basically want the top of the axle tube to be at or very near the bottom of the original frame rail lip @ ride height?
Are you using the same size bags front & rear?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I would say that is close to where it would, yes.
At that point the bags are really deflated. fully deflated is with the top of the axle tube about 1" away from the top of the C-Notch. This would be sitting height, not driving height typically, maybe i should say not cruising height. Cruising height can be adjusted to what is comfortable.

The Bags are exactly the same size.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Scoti,
I assume you are asking in reference to maybe how the truck will sit at ride height? I sense a concern?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Correct. The same size bags front & rear are not so much an issue. The installed height in the rear (bracket + bag) vs. what you're targeting for 'ride height' drop amount will possibly be the issue.

Those bags look like the standard C10 fronts (2600's/SS7's/Firestone 224c F6873) have about a 6" recommended ride height @ pressure. If/when you deviate from that recommended pressure, it impacts ride quality.

I ran that same size bag in the rear w/no bracket & it took only ~25psi to achieve my desired ride height (top of axle tube @ bottom of frame rail lip/approx. 2.5" from bottoming out on the c-notch). Now, I also had lowering blocks in the rear which should be a wash for your bag bracket since they prob both were similar in height. Below 30psi the ride was too bouncy & felt like it was basically too much for the shock.

You might want to set it up & verify dimensions. The smaller Dbl. Convoluted bag (2500/SS6's/255c F6781) are ~5" @ recommended ride height @ pressure (40-50psi likely). You get a much better ride quality w/the correct air pressure.

Food for thought. You sound like you weren't planning to go as low as mine was so you might be ok. I figure it's worth mentioning while you're still in the build stages.

A pic for reference . This was a bolt-in C-notched frame, bags directly bolted to the frame/Truck-Arm, & 1.5" blocks. I know it's a different year/body style but the chassis' are almost identical for the ride height concerns/comparisons....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Scoti,
I so appreciate your comments and thoughts! That is such a great help to me. It allows me to understand what i can do if what i het is not enough. Thank you for your time here!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

No problem. I would just make sure you can mount the smaller bag in the same set-up that way if it does seem it's necessary, you're already set-up for the task.

What brand/manufacturer are the bags?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I am using EZ Air Ride full Deluxe kit for my C10

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I know where you sourced it from. I don't know what brand parts they supply. I went back through & found an image that revealed the bag manufacturer (Air Lift)....