Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
It opens the passenger vent. Opens and closes with vacuum
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I'd have to go out and follow the lines, not sure off the top of my head
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
[QUOTE=tommys72;7173759]I'd have to go out and follow the lines, not sure off the top of my head[/QUOTE
Ok just curious. Really isn't going to matter until I start putting it back together. There was nothing connected to it when I got the truck. I assume it must be set up so the driver can open and close both vents? Semper Fi. |
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Semper Fi brother |
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On non-A/C trucks there is a matching direct manual operation passenger inlet air vent. However on A/C trucks like yours, was, this became the air recirculation door. It is vacuum motor operated to allow interior air to be sucked into the A/C inlet plenum when the outside/fresh air door (also vacuum motor operated) is closed. Might be best to review the factory service manual on the A/C system if the picture does not clear this up for you. * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here |
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Almost done with the interior. I'm going to have a lot of original parts that I am probably not going to use again so let me know if your looking for anything. My plan is to update or make modern with newer technology as much as I can.
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psugvaqwp7.jpg |
Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
You've even got the original gun rack in there, that's awesome!
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just found this, nice build...
22 yr army vet here, still in... |
Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Advice please: I removed the lights and tailgate from the bed preparing to start disassembling the bed. I stopped before I even started when I saw welds between the bed and side panels. Originally I thought they just bolted together. The bed definitely needs work, the floor is dented in several areas, the wheel wells have lots of dents, the side panels on one side has a bunch of bondo you can see at the bottom of the panel, both sides have old fuel doors which I do not want anymore, and there is probably more I am not seeing. So, should I grind welds take apart bed (if that is even possible), or buy a bed (how much will that cost)? Thank you in advance for taking the time to reply. I greatly appreciate it.
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Their are about 4 to 6 welds that support the bed floor and side you can grind the weld and use a chisel to separate them. you will have to check alignment and weld them back together when you have completed the body work.
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Sky from Sky's Hot Rods finish up the sheet metal work on my truck. I did grind the weld and take the bed apart as I went from 8' bed to 6' bed and use what I could from the 8' to save money and buying part. the bed side will bolt together and you align the tailgate gaps then weld it back up. its not that much work. knocking out the dents is where all the work is. I did buy a new metal bed bottom salvaged the rest from 2 beds.
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My experiance is one approx 1" weld on each side of the rear steak pocket, the rest is all bolts and nuts, there are some almost hidden bolts under the rear corners, ya really got to look for them.. the bedsides are awkward, 2 people or a way to support them like a cherry picker are a good idea
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Might not seem like progress to some but it's progress to me. I removed one wheel well and getting ready to start the second. The old bolts are not fun to work with. I wish they would break off like some but most just spin. My new hip is getting a good workout going up and down a ladder to get into the back of the truck. I can't wait to see just a frame.
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...pspuejblsq.jpg http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6bjyserm.jpg |
Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
Oh man have to love rusty bolts !Have an awesome week end and thank you for your service to our Country.
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Actually when your by yourself doing body work can be a pita, especially when the carriage bolts want to turn when your trying to remove them. One trick for rusty bolts i have learned thru the years is to just tighten them until they break off cause you don't want to re use rusty bolts anyway, bolt kits are pretty cheap, the only possible drawback besides a bloody knuckle may be that if the body flanges are really rusted they may give a little, but if they are that bad they need repair anyway.
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Re: 1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build
It looks like I'm a little bit late to the party, I just saw this build today for the first time.
Welcome to the board. There are a LOT of very knowledgeable people here on the board and you can learn tons by just simply reading other peoples builds. As in all things there is a right way to do things and a wrong way to do things, sometimes unfortunately we don't have the tools to do things the "right way" all the time and a lot of times the right way costs a lot of money because of the tools you have to buy to make it happen, however the good news is Harbor freight is your friend, the idea behind the business model is the tools are designed for "one time use" and are very reasonable in price. As in most product lines there are different levels of quality and features, they have the El cheapo, the Heavy Duty and the PROfessional series. For things like drills I buy the PRO series, for things like impact drills and grinders I buy the HD series, you get the idea, I never buy the El cheapo because they may or may not make it through your first project :lol: Harbor freight is also good for things like car dolly's, BIG 60 gallon air compressors, PRO series tool boxes, things of that nature. Lowes is an excellent source for common fasteners, nut's bolt's etc, but for hard to find fasteners go to Ace hardware. I'm going along for the ride, if you find yourself scratching your head and have any questions about anything on the pickup feel free to send me a private message. |
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I forgot to mention earlier, one of the greatest things I discovered for cleaning up and resurfacing most metals without removing any good material is a polycarbide abrasive wheel on an angle grinder it's literally a miracle worker, how you use it is you lay it down as flat as you can without touching the arbor to the metal and use light to no pressure on it because usually the weight of the grinder is enough.
You can use the edge of the wheel if you need to get into a recessed area. It will remove, rust, body filler, paint, etc. Here is a link to the product so you can check it out. http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-h...eel-94017.html |
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I would have everything you intend to reuse media blasted which doesn't really cost that much, where as chem dipping costs too darn much.
Any parts you have media blasted need to be sealed with self etching primer immediately once you get it home to prevent surface rust from reforming, so plan accordingly. |
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Someone obviously used this thing for off road, so with that in mind I would take some serious time measuring to make sure the frame is straight.
Who knows if the P.O. had any idea what they were doing when they lifted the pickup. Sigh... I hate to say it but they probably didn't which means the shock mounting points weren't reinforced/relocated the frame wasn't boxed for strength, no skid plates added et cetera. Lets hope they didn't beat on it regularly, you need to carefully check every ball joint, tie rod end, et cetera for wear. Also you need to carefully check for damaged/bent suspension parts. |
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Well you have come to the right place, we can certainly make sure you are doing it right. :lol:
I would really like to have a conversation with you concerning your plans for the pickup so I can help you formulate a long term plan for the build, if you would like to send me a private message with your number and a range of time that it is ok to call on most days and I will give you a call, just click on my name on the left to send me a private message. BTW you will notice that I edit my posts a lot because I have a bad habit of rereading my post after to make sure it says exactly what I want it to say. |
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I usually try PB blaster and try to loosen them first and if the wont then tighten them until they break
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