Re: 4x4 1971 K20 build
I'm definitely interested to see how it turns out and how much work it takes along the way.
I thought about putting a 6.5TD in my truck because they have great fuel economy and ok power. I didn't put much consideration into a Duramax because I didn't think it would fit without a really big hammer so I'm very interested to see what you have to do on yours. I already have the 6.2 and transmission from a previous project (2000 Silverado RCSB). Wiring that was a pain because of the two different protocols. It it was a beast when it was done. Putting it in my 72 should be a breeze compared to that. |
Re: 4x4 1971 K20 build
It shouldn't be too difficult for you then. The thing about a duramax is there isn't much support for swaps. Getting it to fit shouldn't be too difficult, it's just all the other stuff like the fuel filter and the extra cooler and such. But I think we can make it work. I'll keep my thread updated and I'll try to remember to let you know. I skipped my pita wiring and sent it off and had it custom made and my ecm and tcm tuned for my exact truck. And if you can, find a donor truck! I couldn't find one and bought my engine and trans separate and also my coolers and wiring separate. The little things forgotten add up really quick!
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Re: 4x4 1971 K20 build
Look on diesel forums, there is plenty of info. Dieselplace is a good one for Duramax info. Get an airdog or FASS and you don't have to worry about where to put a stock gm fuel filter housing.
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Re: 4x4 1971 K20 build
Let me know how yours goes as well! Thanks
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Took the engine and trans over Monday night. He is finishing up the cab this week and the beast will be ready for the dmax. After we get it in all he has left to do is build the floor, get the intercooler and radiator modified into the core support and finish sanding, priming, and getting all the body lines to line up.
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Well he found some smaller little holes he needed to patch so it set him back a little. But the cab is completely primed and undercoated and rust free!
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Does anyone know how to upload 2 pictures on 1 post? I upload 1 okay and then I try to upload the other and it removes the first.
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I think you have to make the pictures smaller. Truck is coming along nicely.
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What i figured out is rather than post directly from my phone i email myself pictures, then when i am at home on my PC i open the email attachment and save that picture or pictures, i do this instead of plugging the phone in to the computer and transferring files from the phone to computer, when you send the email you have to pick the file size, when i had a Samsung i always picked medium, with my Iphone i can use Large, this makes a great picture to upload to the forum, i can upload all 5 pictures to one post.
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Fitting in some parts and getting the pedal fitted in. Hoping to get the power plant in by the end of this week. We will see.
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Getting ready to button up the body work.
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It's coming along very nice and fast! Great work!
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You're making leaps and bounds compared to how long it took me to get my truck into primer. :lol:
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Today we got the engine in. After 1 broken cherry picker. The wheel broke off but it just scratched my oil pan. Everything clears pretty good from the heater to the newer style brake booster. The oil filter sits perfect right in the frame rail. It looks as is my factory style trans tunnel will work. We notched a little to get it to fit better and to clear a sensor that's behind the go fast pedal. In the pictures all of the weight is on the frame. We just have to get holes drilled and everything lined up. I'm going to just use a lift pump with filters so I can do away with the factory style and then I will bypass my FICM module as the fuel only acts as a cooler for it. I will get better pictures and give more information when it's all bolted up and in place. He also started mocking up the coolers around the core support. I am using the factory ones and will get pictures when I go over Monday to finish the motor up, hopefully.
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Not too many adjustments need to be made to the floor. Just towards the back where the transfer case bolts up needs to lift a little. Plan on cutting two lines straight back and lifting it up like a tab and adding side piece triangles to lift it up.
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Good deal! It's looking great!
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Going to try and finish drilling and bolting it up today.
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The intercooler and body wiring harness are ordered in. The factory intercooler is way too big. Front clip is on.
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Looks like it fits in there nicely.
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Very nice!
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Going over tomorrow to get my starter in. Going to take pictures and put them in my post on how I did it. What would you guys recommend on doing with my steering gears? It is a little leaky. Go redhead? It's going to have to turn a lot more tire and a lot more weight. |
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So problems... Intercooler nor the radiator will fit. They are just too tall. Anyone have a recommendation on a radiator I should use?
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Re: 4x4 1971 K20 build
I would consider tilting it back if too tall. Fab some brackets to hold the top. Otherwise, Summit and Jegs brand radiators work great and less expensive than most. I have one on my truck and fit perfect. Just measure your support. Had mine for 6-7 years and no issues on a BBC.
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Somehow I Missed your duramax swap. My build is similar but still haven't got to fitting my duramax driveline. Looks good from another Kansan to another. Trevor
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First picture is the side of the engine stand. I used 1.5" square tubing with a 1/4" wall thickness.
Second is the trans cross member, bolted in the same factory holes. Third is from the bottom. You can see the washer spacers we used on the bottom of the stand with a bolt through them to keep them aligned. The cross member was not modified other than the corners were trimmed to get it in. It is about 8" from the front cross member. Fourth shows the mounting plate and the sbc motor mounts. I had bought Mounting plates off of Merchant Automotive but it would be better off to build your own since they are too small to fit a sbc motor mount. Overall I am very happy where it sits. The oil filter and housing sits right in the center of the frame rail which i think is nice. The starter can come out without moving the engine. I think I will have to put a resonator plug as my turbo silencer might sit too high. The only thing that was cut was a small piece up under the pedal to clear a sensor, and the tabs that were all around the trans tunnel were trimmed off. We may have to raise the floor up a bit above the transfer case, we will find out soon. |
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New intercooler is mounted. Getting lights and wiring ran.
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Good clears good with a few inches to spare. Glass is in. Getting anxious!
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Nice Build man. Been awhile since I been on and just read from beginning. Nice to see another 4x4. I'm just about done with mine, I'm subscribing!:metal:
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Went and picked the beast up to bring back to our shop on Thursday. Down to wiring, brakes and fuel. Have a few things here and there. Will probably order my radiator within the next week or so. Sadly it will not be finished this year for the local car show. I will be taking my c20 in though and I'll try to get some pictures of some 67-72 rides. There were quite a bit of them last year. There's already around 1300 preregistered. If your close come on down.
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Well my driver side drop idea just won't quite work as it will hit the oil pan on the trans and possibly the engine if it was flexed enough and depending on how far my yoke sits out. I believe it could be done but it is just way too close for my liking and I want to do it right. Maybe I just need more lift. :lol: (The pan was designed to clear a driver side front shaft so they moved the pan over to keep the capacity.) Damn lucky 2wd guys. Any how I will be finding a manual shift driver drop case (NP261 or NP241 with input shaft swap) to get it running but it wont be 4wd until I can find and afford a 78-79 ford dana 60. :smoke: I am hoping to hear it run by the end of November but we will see. We started corn harvest so I will not have much time to work on it unless it is wet out. But that just means more money to spend on the rig. ;)
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Pretty cool shot of these Blazers. Not my picture, I forgot to take pictures. The orange on is on a 90s dodge frame with a Cummins that is still turbo'd and is also supercharged. Sitting on 37's.
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Re: 4x4 1971 K20 build
I've seen that orange one at Des Moines Good guys last year I think.
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