Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Bravo sir, Bravo!

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Thank you sir. It's kind of ironic you're posting today. This morning I went through and read your WTB and sale threads on the Blazer. Very disappointing, but you will pull through. There are a lot of great members here. Chalk it up to one bad experience and a learning lesson. Good luck with your shoulder issues my friend!

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Thank you. Even when I wasn't injured I didn't have your skill, or awesome garage!

I did a similar build in a Jimmy over 10 years ago. It was fun and really makes these trucks enjoyable to drive.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

So I'm doing some work on my AC lines. I want to conceal my AC and heater lines in the PS fender. I know that I could put a bulkhead on the firewall, but that would be too easy, LOL.

I bought this inexpensive bulkhead (sorry made in China) to use inside the PS fresh air vent.

Attachment 1986689


My plan is to install the bulkhead inside the vent with the good side of the bulkhead inside the vent and the nuts on the outside (bottom) of the vent. This way I can remove each piece, make the connection outside of the vent and then put it back inside. Otherwise I wouldn't be able to get wrenches inside the vent to tighten the AC and heater hose connections.


Attachment 1986691


This side will go on the bottom of the vent.

Attachment 1986692

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

The bulkhead connectors have flats on them so they won't spin in the bulkhead plate.

Attachment 1986702

Attachment 1986701


I'm planning to use these fittings on the bottom of the vent.

Attachment 1986703

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

AC Line Update: I've been doing a little more work on the routing of my AC and heater lines. I drilled holes in the bottom of the passenger side fresh air vent in order to mount my AC/Heater bulkhead. I drilled the first hole and then realized that layout wouldn't work. I ended up with an extra hole, but that will be mostly covered by the bulkhead. I'm not worried about it.

Attachment 1987497

I mounted the bulkhead from inside the fresh air vent. I know it looks weird with the good side hidden in the vent, but this will allow me to remove each of the connectors and make the connections with the hoses outside of the vent. Otherwise, I would not be able to get wrenches inside of the vent to tighten the connections. I originally wanted to put grommets in the bottom of the vent, but it was impossible to bend the AC and heater hoses.

Attachment 1987498

Here is the bottom of the fresh air vent, where I will tighten each of the bulkhead connectors.

Attachment 1987499

Here is how the AC and heater hose fittings will come out of the bottom of the fresh air vent.

Attachment 1987500

Attachment 1987501

I slowly keep banging away at it. Peace Out! :metal:

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I like how you ran these. Have you fit the hoses on the interior yet?

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I made up a couple of sections so far. I'm using VA's EZ-Clip system for my hoses, so I make them up myself. I'll get more pictures as I go along.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Pretty cool what you have done there. Are you doing hard lines all the way into the engine compartment?

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

No I'm using VA's EZ-Clip hoses from the cab to the engine compartment.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I worked on installing my Derale transmission cooler. I bought the Derale model 52506, 25-row stack plate cooler.

(https://derale.com/product-footer/fl...-inlets-detail)

Here is the Derale cooler I bought
Attachment 1988467


Today I made up a mount for the front of my condenser and core support.
Attachment 1988468


I put in a couple of rivet nuts on the core support to attach the bracket.
Attachment 1988469


Put the other bracket on and leveled out.
Attachment 1988470

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Installed the trans cooler.

Attachment 1988473

Attachment 1988476

Had to space out the bracket away from the condenser. I love using stainless button head screws.
Attachment 1988477

This is the hose and fittings I'm planning to use.
Attachment 1988478

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I just got my Speed Engineering headers back. I sent them out and had them ceramic coated, black satin color. They did a good job and coated inside of the primaries and collector.

Attachment 1988683


Attachment 1988684


Attachment 1988685


Attachment 1988686

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Question re the Pacific Fab x-member. Any reason to suspect it would not clear the differential on a stock height truck?

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

The short answer is YES. According to Pacific Fab, you need to either have new factory springs or install a 2" lift. If springs are old and sagging, they cannot guarantee it. I had old, original springs and one was actually cracked, which I didn't realize until I replaced them.

See the attached link, and the fine print at the bottom which states:

Not designed for 2wd vehicles.

Note: This crossmember is designed to be used with new factory springs. If your vehicles springs are worn out or sagging a 2" lift may be necessary for clearance to the front differential. Subject to availability.

http://pacificfabrication.com/63-72-...ssmembers.html

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I had seen that. Thanks for confirming. Seems like a cleaner xmember than the DD example.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

No problem. I'm really happy with it. You might be able to get away with using it if you have decent stock springs.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I worked a little bit on figuring out an upper radiator hose. I think I'm going to use two 45-degree elbows with a piece of 1-1/2" stainless connector in between.

Attachment 1990355


Attachment 1990356


Attachment 1990357


Attachment 1990358

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I bought the Lokar firewall mount transmission dipstick for 4L60E. I hope the length of the dipstick inside the transmission is correct, since I don't have a stock one to gauge it to.

Attachment 1996305


Marked off the location on the firewall and drilled and tapped it.
Attachment 1996306


Install complete
Attachment 1996307

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

A friend of mine owns a welding and fabrication company. He used his company's CNC machining center and made me this shifter boot ring for my NP205. It's made out of 3/8" aluminum, so it's thicker then the stock one. All other dimensions are the same. Pretty cool. :metal:

Attachment 1996310

Attachment 1996311

Attachment 1996312

Attachment 1996313

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Hey Dan. It’s the little things that most people won’t see that set it off. Looks good.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Finally started working on my wiring. I put it off, and put it off, but finally realized that it won't get done by itself. My harness wiring is completed, but I needed to get started on my fuse panel wiring. I'm using the AAW Classic Update kit. I labeled all wires with marker and painter's tape, so I knew where everything was going. Then I started removing the wires that I didn't think I'd need. I also re-pinned a lot of wires and relocated them where I wanted them in the harness. I hope this works out!

AAW harness layout
Attachment 1999024

Re-pinning the harness
Attachment 1999025

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Nice work as usual Dan.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

More work on the wiring. Got the AAW fuse box installed. Now it's time to make all the connections.

Attachment 2001538


Attachment 2001539

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I'm installing Dakota Digital RTX gauges, so I need to mount the main module. I'm also putting in a GPS module and OBDII interface (BIM-01-2). Instead of just shoving them under the dash I wanted to mount them neatly. My plan was to use the ABS firewall insulator from Quiet Ride Solutions as a mounting surface. The ABS is really sturdy, so it'll make a great mounting surface. I decided to use rivet nuts in the firewall insulator to mount the modules.

I started with the OBDII interface module by testing where I wanted it.
Attachment 2001557


I then taped the firewall insulator in order to mark my holes for the rivet nuts. I couldn't see any pencil marks on the black firewall, so the painter's tape works great.
Attachment 2001558


This is one of my rivet nut tools. This one is smaller and fits under the dash great.
Attachment 2001559


First rivet nut is installed.
Attachment 2001560


Both rivet nuts are in place and the BIM OBDII module installed. Stainless button heads used of course. Lol ;) Now I need to install the other modules.
Attachment 2001561

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

More Dakota Digital module mounting:

Put in a couple more rivet nuts to install the main control module.
Attachment 2002338


More rivet nuts for the GPS module.
Attachment 2002339


Installed the GPS-50-2 interface module.
Attachment 2002340


Both interface modules installed.
Attachment 2002341

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

More wiring: So I bought a power distribution block on Amazon to use as a ground block. When it arrived, I didn't realize it was so big. I should have paid more attention to the size before I made the purchase.

Attachment 2004699


In order to use it I decided to cut it in half. I replaced the top bolt with a stud that I drilled and tapped into a raised section of the firewall, so it's thoroughly grounded. I confirmed the continuity with an ohm meter.
Attachment 2004695


Connected all wire grounds to the bus bar.
Attachment 2004696


Finished product. It worked out pretty well.
Attachment 2004697

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Your just a head of me with wiring I'm finish up some work under the hood then start on wiring I will be fallowing your thread. where did you get the rivet nuts.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I have both the Astro Pneumatic 1442 and 1443B tool kits. Both sets come with some rivet nuts. I also ordered some stainless rivet nuts off of Amazon. You can find them on Ebay too. They are great tools. I set rivet nuts for my seats, transmission cooler mount, Dakota Digital modules and more.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I just read through your build, very impressive. I can tell you've put a lot of thought and planning into it and it shows!

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Thank you. I appreciate it very much. I'd also like to thank you for your input and help outside of this build thread concerning LS swaps and wiring. You've been a great help.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

With the COVID-19 stay-at-home orders I've been pretty busy with the truck. I made up some lines to go between the Vintage Air evaporator and the bulkhead fittings located down inside the fresh air vent.

Attachment 2011757


Attachment 2011758


Attachment 2011759


Attachment 2011760

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

More wiring updates: Instead of hard wiring my VA trinary switch, I decided to install a 4-way weather pack connector.

First weather pack pin installed.
Attachment 2011761

Finished connector. Just in case I have to remove the trinary switch for some reason.
Attachment 2011762

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I made up a couple of fuel lines for the supply and return from the Corvette style filter/regulator. I used PTFE tubing and the proper fittings. Not so sure I like how these fittings connect to the filter/regulator. I may change my mind on this.

This is the Wix 33100 filter/regulator.
Attachment 2011767


Made a supply and return line for connection at my Walbro pump inside the Rick's tank.
Attachment 2011768


I don't really care for all these connections on the filter/regulator.
Attachment 2011769

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

You are doing really nice work Dan. Super clean.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Nice work on that weatherpak connector. On the fuel line fittings, there is a type of fitting that is supposed to be more secure than the the plastic clips - it's like a c-clip that keeps the fitting secured. I'm running the plastic clips and haven't had an issue though. If you're interested, Earl's (Holley) makes them: https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/751166ERL

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Thanks Rick. That means a lot coming from the May 2020 ToTM winner. Congrats! :metal:

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

The fittings I'm currently using are the C-clip type. I think they would be OK, but I think I'm going to go with this filter/regulator from Speedway. It has 6AN fittings already installed, which will minimize the potential for leaks.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...SI,375656.html

Attachment 2011951

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

I didn't know those existed, that's pretty cool. I'll have to remember that when I replace mine someday.

Re: Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter
 

Worked on my upper radiator hose. I've been trying to find an off-the-shelf hose. I've tried a number of hoses, but have been unable to find anything that fits with my LS radiator. I ended up buying a 1-1/2" 45-degree hose piece and a 1-1/2" to 1-1/4" 45-degree piece. I put the one piece on the radiator and the other on the engine. With tape around each section, I marked the mating points. I then cut a 6" long piece of 1-1/2" diameter stainless steel tubing and put these together. I then used a Gates Power Grip, shrink clamp to hold the pieces together. Worked out pretty good.

Both hose sections were installed and the mating points were match-marked with tape and marker
Attachment 2013903

I installed a 6" piece of 1-1/2" stainless steel tubing inside the hoses, keeping the match marks in line.
Attachment 2013904

I used a Gates Power Grip shrink clamp to hold the two sections together. The shrink clamp part number is 32948. It fits 1-3/4" to 2" diameter.
Attachment 2013905

Make sure that if you don't want to see the markings on the clamp that you clean them off before you heat shrink the clamp on. If you try to clean it afterwards, the lettering won't come off.
Attachment 2013906

Final result fit perfectly!
Attachment 2013907