Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

That's looking awesome. The seams look far better than anything the factory did....

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

It looks really good when its wet and only slightly duller when it's dry. After going back and blocking to find all of the highs/lows I missed earlier I'm really surprised at how much build there was with only two coats, allowing me to block out areas I thought I'd have to skim coat. It also blocks easily without clogging the paper.


Thanks! This side was surprisingly good from the factory, only needing a little attention at the very bottom.

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

I have a new respect for anyone capable of metalfinishing large areas of old crunched metal. I’ve only worked metal to perfection on very small areas with lighter damage before this. The front section of this bedside had been giving me trouble so I decided to challenge myself and attempt to go farther than my usual “good enough to skim coat” straightening efforts. The grid is 8x10” and I’m only about halfway through it, and it’s still a little wavy from the heavy damage around it so I’ll have to go back over it again to correct the overall shape once all the major damage is smoothed out.


Starting point. Lots of damage, both from the initial damage and prior attempts to straighten it using a pick hammer improperly.

https://i.imgur.com/tXsFdtZh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ioFqKu3h.jpg


I laid out a 2x2" grid so I could focus on a small area at a time. I used a sharpie marker and a plexiglass sanding block with 180 grit to show the high/low spots, then began working the low up and the highs down with a hammer and dolly. The metal was very stretched so I made a few passes with the shrinking disk to start with, but the more I straightened the more the overall area became a high spot again, similar to planishing out a panel after beating it into rough shape on a sand bag.

https://i.imgur.com/t25cKB5h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qYetc0Xh.jpg


The back side of the grid. You can see hot spots from the shrinking disk, high spots from sanding to find the back of the low spots, and a ton of tiny hammer marks from working up the low spots.

https://i.imgur.com/5idkoEZh.jpg


Progress pics.

https://i.imgur.com/rUIOPGLh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RcCi36yh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/LAC1cS6h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RCBDH7ih.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RT7rut6h.jpg



Where I ended up after around 6 hours. This won't be charged to the customer since I'm doing this to push myself to learn how to do this, and I'm not anywhere near proficient at it yet. This is the worst spot on the whole bed so it's been a challenge to make it this far. It's not perfect but it's a start at learning the skill of metalfinishing.

https://i.imgur.com/jOqDRVZh.jpg



I also worked on correcting the overal shape down the length of the bedside. This side was concave down the length from the factory, and reflections off the paint in concave areas magnify any imperfections so making the panel straight or slightly crowned is important on such a long panel. I cut the inner braces loose, then moved them until the panel was straight overall. It only needs light stretching in a couple areas to bring up low spots, the worst of the two is only .014” deep.

https://i.imgur.com/u3s0vXjh.jpg



You can see how the lower section in front of the wheel opening moves inward from front to rear in relation to the straight edge that is held against the lower panel behind the wheel opening. This points to the inner brace holding the panel in the wrong orientation.

https://i.imgur.com/98zu5PHh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PeVRARQh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UVFs7ujh.jpg



There was a second brace holding the outer skin at the front of the wheel opening. I drilled the spot welds and freed the outer skin so it could be repositioned.

https://i.imgur.com/JymfwAhh.jpg


Once the overall shape was straight from front to rear I found a low spot in the body line near the rear of the wheel opening, and that was pulling a low spot in the open area above it. I used a portapower to push it out.

https://i.imgur.com/x06Z9y5h.jpg


That left me with only two small low spots down the length of the panel, the deeper one was only .014" low which I can easily move up with light hammer on dolly stretching.

https://i.imgur.com/WB3Ut7ph.jpg


Inner flange straightened.

https://i.imgur.com/ZNyHGAGh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/73l6vdkh.jpg


Flipped over with the rotisserie to start fixing the minor imperfections inside the bed.

https://i.imgur.com/XJxhGfuh.jpg


Close up of the surface finish of the SPI epoxy. The level of gloss acts like a built in guide coat when blocking so you can easily see any low spots, pinholes, rust pits, etc.

https://i.imgur.com/xBF3jzah.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Phenomenal work!!!

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

/\/\/\ what he said/\/\/\

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

I'm always amazed at your attention to detail.

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Yep, amazing as usual

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Maaaaaaannnnn, that's purdy! Nice work!

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Thanks dudes!!



I have the other side finished and both in epoxy primer now. It was sunk in almost 1/2" above the wheel opening, again mostly due to the braces pulling it inward too much.

https://i.imgur.com/Q3VJwWrh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nV9ksUyh.jpg


The rear corner needed reshaping towards the bottom, too much to just shrink it down flat. I made a few cuts to bring the bottom up and the side in, then welded it back up.

https://i.imgur.com/pkvvRZmh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/o2SmhBPh.jpg


After.

https://i.imgur.com/pI3PWAwh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YZ2tCJZh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bkDBCWah.jpg



Higher up there was damage around the taillight opening. There was a deep flange on the inside of the opening blocking access to the back side, so I cut out the damaged area to straighten off the truck.

https://i.imgur.com/7bkdVoTh.jpg


After straightening and welding back in place. The metal measured almost 1/16" thick.

https://i.imgur.com/kCMHgQMh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YnvViBih.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qf9g8GLh.jpg


Ready for epoxy.

https://i.imgur.com/V5ru3vSh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/fdLw5FOh.jpg


The reflections show that it's not perfect but the overall shape is really close. A skim coat will make it 100% straight. I posted these on facebook last night and it got shared to a collision repair page... they were complaining about all the orange peel in the "paint" even though the description clearly said it was epoxy over bare metal :lol:

https://i.imgur.com/HuHZwsVh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oL5sRKSh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/28zlJXAh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/pOmBwYDh.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Haha...who is that masked man?......

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Got both sides skimmed and blocked. Getting the metal straight first meant I only needed to skim it once, then touch up a few areas. I tried something new; using spring steel spreaders but couldn't get the hang of them so a few spots were too thin on the first section I did. I switched back to normal spreaders for the rest of it.


I blocked the upper part above the body line front to back, then blended the lower front area into the upper section, being careful to not make a low spot in the upper half. The transition from flat to round around the corners of raised wheel opening stampings have always given me fits, so this time I wiped off any filler about 1.5" away from the raised part before it dried. That let me do the initial blocking without worrying if I was getting the transition to the rounded raised edge shaped correctly- I only had to worry about the overall shape. Once the flat areas were blocked straight I skimmed the transition and shaped it by itself later, which was easier since I was working against the open area that was already straight.

https://i.imgur.com/B0kpALch.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BjP9g8Bh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/i5El5Mxh.jpg


I used an angled block around the wheel opening stamping to work up to the raised area while keeping as much of the block on the flat surface as possible. You can see in this pic where I initially left the transition bare.

https://i.imgur.com/T0nFErmh.jpg


I left the paper shy of the edge so the block doesn't cut into the transition- the smooth edge hits the transition and raises the block up before it can cut a groove into the raised part.

https://i.imgur.com/aCuzCqnh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9s9IvaWh.jpg


The outside corner of the body line had more guide coat applied so I could block it into an even radius front to back. This was roughed in with 80 grit, watching to see how far into the flats the block was cutting. I didn't cut it all the way down with 80, I finished shaping the radius once I had the whole bed roughed in with 80, then applied guide coat and reblocked it all with 150.

https://i.imgur.com/n3vTag6h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xCoNzVdh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/41cJ01rh.jpg


Same idea at the front of the bed where the metal folds around to the inner panel.

https://i.imgur.com/q9Gpm5Dh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9j8ljRvh.jpg


After applying more guide coat and blocking the panel with 150. The guide coat shows how evenly the edge is rounded into the flat part of the panel. This is something you'd have a hard time getting even if you didn't skim the whole panel.

https://i.imgur.com/RIUdh4Sh.jpg


Everything finished with 150, ready for more epoxy and polyester primer. And then more sanding.

https://i.imgur.com/r5Tg6SZh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xR8P5Ayh.jpg


Check out how well the filler adheres to SPI epoxy. I didn't sand or scuff the epoxy before skimming, the epoxy stays open for 7 days for filler or other primers to bond. You can see how well it feather edges, and the orange peel of the epoxy is visible- the whole two coats of epoxy are still there without any breakthroughs to bare metal from the typical process of sanding/scuffing before filler. I'll spray more epoxy before polyester to keep the metal 100% sealed.

https://i.imgur.com/rasiWfgh.jpg


Here's a "torture test" to see just how well filler sticks to SPI epoxy when applied within 7 days, using both proper and improper bare metal prep.

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.ph...ure-test.3807/



Now it's time to go clean the shop...

https://i.imgur.com/E4wIibNh.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

awesome looking work. What's the handle on FB?

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Thanks! Here's a link.

https://www.facebook.com/john.glenn.5205

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

I shot epoxy over the bare spots last Monday to seal them up, and let it sit all week before spraying Slick Sand Saturday night. This lets the epoxy dry fully so any shrinking has occurred before applying the poly primer, but before the epoxy has cured so the poly still bonds chemically.


https://i.imgur.com/ZkLTWPHh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6qxQsdNh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cA32KWwh.jpg



Mirka dry guide coat, ready for blocking.

https://i.imgur.com/x1xrvmqh.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

My arms are sore from all the sanding you're doing....lol. It's looking terrific.

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Getting started back on this one... The owner brought back the finished frame, that let me mount the bed and fabricate a filler neck, along with repositioning the center gooseneck stamping to use as a flat spot for the gas cap.

The frame- Coyote/Magnum T56 swapped with M2 front suspension and a four link in the rear.

https://i.imgur.com/OgeaBgth.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3QbPy5Uh.jpg


I made a template to cut exact matching size holes in the ribbed section over the tank and the center gooseneck stamping so that they could swap spots without excesive welding gaps. Also bought extra thin cut off wheels and slightly thinned them myself even more for less kerf.

https://i.imgur.com/yFrS4Tbh.jpg


Double offset filler neck.

https://i.imgur.com/hDMSFnGh.jpg


A normal gas cap would look to small and wouldn't hide the hole for the filler neck so I started looking online for larger caps with standard threads. Ended up finding an aftermarket billet cap for a BMW motorcycle that looked like a good fit for the truck. The tank is vented already so I removed the cap vent and drilled/tapped/plugged the hole so it can't leak fuel out onto the bed floor paint. The top was flat and sort of chunky looking to begin with but I liked the rest of design..

https://i.imgur.com/EcjcsFBh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TxS3FRCh.jpg


I used a mug (it was the right diameter :lol:) and an english wheel anvil in the press to dimple the opening around the filler neck.

https://i.imgur.com/y2QY7Emh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BkXTd3Dh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/a3cjjWQh.jpg


Finished up. I used the lathe to slightly dome the top of the cap and round the edge, then sanded it smooth up to 1000 grit. I used a red scuff pad for a brushed look, then metal polish to slightly polish the cap without losing the brushed look. It could easily be fully polished if the owner wants to but I thought this finish might hide fingerprint smudges and scratches since aluminum is soft and its an item that'll see a lot of use/handling.

https://i.imgur.com/T1rw1oVh.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

OH my.... that's going to be one badass truck... :jdp:

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Looks good John..really like the cap and the radius ...was really wanting to see the mug at work in the press..!!!..haha
That truck with the yote/56 will be fun..!!

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Wow...I'm just blown away by your talents. Very cool build. I have enjoyed the build up to this part....Keep it up.

Thanks for thoroughly explaining each step for those of us with far less talent.

Marc

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Got the metalwork and rough bodywork on the bed floor finished and sealed with a couple coats of epoxy.


I used the rear rib section that was over the gas tank to fill in the section where the round stamping was.

https://i.imgur.com/YgVvhtPh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YVAYfzth.jpg


I knew that the ribs were all different heights, but I didn't realize they also changed shape from front to rear slightly. I thought I could make a spreader for skim coating each rib to simplify spreading filler, but the shape of the ribs ended up being wider or narrower from end to end. This also meant that I couldn't make a sanding block to fit the intended shape, so I had to manually block the bottom/sides/top of every rib.

My attempt at making a spreader-

https://i.imgur.com/VGeeH4Oh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5rDWW14h.jpg


Tons of blocking later. This was a chore to shape/sand the width of base of the floor, the angle and height of the sides of the ribs, and the width of the top of the ribs consistently, along with keeping the radii of the corners and edges consistent. There are a few small imperfections I need to touch up before I shoot it with polyester primer, then more blocking to make it 100% straight.

https://i.imgur.com/cHMlQOah.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yrpxG70h.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

We were able to buy a Pullmax P7 since the last update. We had heard about a local Pullmax awhile back and had inquired about it but they weren't interested in selling it at the time. The owner contacted us a few weeks ago and said that they were ready to sell it so we made the deal and moved it to the shop. I'm looking into VFD's to run it at the moment, and have started cleaning it up. It came with a fence, circle cutting attachments, louver dies, center and offset tool holders, doming dies, nibbler dies, slotting dies, flanging dies, a beading die, and an offset flange dies, and a really neat dovetail extension that bolts to the side and swings out of the way when not in use. This will be a big help in allowing me to expand my metal fab capabilities.

https://i.imgur.com/qeyq2zRh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RpVl4fgh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aIXQmxkh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mBUaS1Fh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ea7tc2xh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/pkWJps2h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/319r4IMh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zMDNKgmh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FioppIrh.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Nice score on the dovetail extension!! Don't see too many of them.. Quite a few dies too..

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Bed looks great John..!!..
Nice addition with the new tools..

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

I'm guessing that you didn't just pick that up and set it on the trailer, LOL. That looks heavy.

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

I couldn't find another with an extension like that with a quick google search. Wasn't sure if it was something they built themselves or if it was an actual Pullmax accessory.


Thanks!


It's a little under two tons. We lifted it up and bolted 8' skids to the feet, then used the winch to pull it onto the trailer. To get it in the shop I used a snatch block to pull it off the trailer, then a set of car casters to roll it into position. It was easier to move than expected.

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Did some minor touch up and shot a few coats of Slick Sand.

https://i.imgur.com/38vAxCHh.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Wow...that looks flawless..

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Buddy of mine worked at somewhat local military base in their machine shop, they had a pullmax with the dovetail extension like that. He said they used it once for about 10' diameter disc they needed to make, other than that it wasn't used much in the 25+ years he was there..


Bed floor looks awesome.. looks like you picked up an NOS piece someplace.. ;)

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Thanks! It's not quite flawless yet, there's always more sanding to do :lol:


Thanks Robert!



I made a block from three pieces of plexiglass that can flex to fit the sides of the ribs and flatten the bottom at the same time. All of the ribs are at slightly different heights so all of the sides are at different angles; I couldn't shape a durablock that fit all of the ribs like I did with the last F100, and it wasn't practical to make one durablock per rib.


https://i.imgur.com/Wkjmnzth.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

I like how you always come up with a solution for every task. You got talent.

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Getting deep into the details of the bed floor... The stamping details left a lot to be desired. The ends of the ribs were all different; the angle of the "ramp" was uneven from rib to rib and the radii of rounded edges were inconsistent. Having all of the surrounding surfaces blocked dead flat really makes this stand out, so I got out a foam sanding block and 180 to round everything over and sanded until the guide coat was gone so it wasn't as noticeable.



Just kidding! I scuffed up the ends, masked out the areas that were already blocked to the correct shape, then skim coated the ends to reshape them.



Inconsistent shape of the "ramp" part of the ribs.

https://i.imgur.com/VCfBSWuh.jpg


Masked and scuffed with 180 to prep for filler.

https://i.imgur.com/tx8isnLh.jpg


One down.

https://i.imgur.com/prSWn8Mh.jpg


I only did a couple at a time so I could do all the shaping while the filler was soft and sanded easily. This slightly clogs the paper so I use a brass brush to clear the out the stuck on filler. The tape on the end prevents the block from digging into the surrounding areas that are already flat and shaped correctly.

https://i.imgur.com/FEPvtQgh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gr0EbNih.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9uXiGR7h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lp5u5Yhh.jpg


I used a longer block made from 1/2"x1/2" aluminum to block across a few ramps at a time so they're all at the same angle.

https://i.imgur.com/5TOjLvph.jpg


Final product- flat flats and sharp, even edges. I'll slightly round over the edges when I go 180 grit to smooth out the 80 grit scratches.

https://i.imgur.com/Jw0S1bYh.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

I think we all would have sent a search party to do a wellness check if that actually happened :lol: Great work as usual! :metal:

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Filler hole details. The circle around the filler opening was sanded flat and level with the base of the floor between the ribs, but the transition from the flat circle to the rounded parts of the ribs needed truing up. I used a compass to establish a perfect circle for both the lower and upper edges of each rib, then filled and sanded until the sides of the ribs were the correct shape. It's hard to sand the inside of the corners to the correct shape though, so I pulled fine line tape and used a razor blade to shave the inside corners to the correct profile.

The end of the razor was taped to prevent that side from cutting what was already correctly shaped. The other end is up against the fine line tape; this shows how much the inside corner is off from only sanding.

https://i.imgur.com/7fYmDOzh.jpg


After shaving down the raised corner all the way to the edge of the fine line tape.

https://i.imgur.com/YXRetXFh.jpg


Then the tape was flipped and the other half of the inside corner was shaved to the correct shape.

https://i.imgur.com/h2fcXwBh.jpg


This left sharp angles at the transition between the straight edge of the ribs and the rounded edges around the filler neck.

https://i.imgur.com/Byw8Afwh.jpg


Calipers used to establish a smooth transition shape.

https://i.imgur.com/OxyEk6Qh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tw5rpt2h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CntxwKLh.jpg


Finished transition.

https://i.imgur.com/93zNISuh.jpg

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

John , your high level of detail always amazes me...very nice work...

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Amazing work and detail!!

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Thanks guys! After all the tedious sanding I'm ready to get started on the cab and do something different for awhile :lol: If the forecast is right I'll have better weather starting the middle of next week and can get the cab blasted.

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

That thing is gonna be so slick a mosquito couldn't land on it without sliding off!

Great work all the way around. Can't wait to see the final product.

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

You notice things so small that most of us wouldn't even see.

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

I agree, the attention to detail is amazing!!

Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
 

Thanks guys!


I started the metal modifications on the dash. There will be an air vent taking the place of the original ignition switch, so the switch needs to be moved over below the gauge cluster. The AC controls will be on the right side under the cluster so the original holes need to be filled in.

https://i.imgur.com/DB7QN3Kh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qiv9K9Mh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Y4gTJCNh.jpg


This side needs three 9/32" holes so I'll weld in a solid panel and redrill new holes.

https://i.imgur.com/9D3dMxCh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/G5ncqPyh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EofpLLWh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Q96wbRch.jpg


I made a new switch opening on a larger panel for less welding. I haven't decided if I want to try to press the new panel with the same indentions as the old switch holes or if I'll just graft them in, it'll probably be faster to just graft the existing pieces.

https://i.imgur.com/bgw1zOdh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PiGr35Fh.jpg


The speaker grill conveniently had round holes stamped in the corners which let me use a hole saw to make round corners for the new panel being welded in. Round edges on patch panels keeps the panel from having concentrated shrinkage on the weld seam in two directions like a 90* corner has so it's easier to planish out the weld seam later.

https://i.imgur.com/XX9nRgjh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JRZY01Kh.jpg


The dash was low on one side of the opening compared to the shape across the rest of the dash, so that was reshaped before welding in the new panel.


Correct shape-

https://i.imgur.com/85j5hIMh.jpg


Low side:

https://i.imgur.com/aHwwRWgh.jpg


Straightened:

https://i.imgur.com/OwLcnO7h.jpg


New panel made slightly oversized, then clamped in place to scribe the trim line.

https://i.imgur.com/XjR6py2h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kB4tqm9h.jpg


Minimal gaps.

https://i.imgur.com/0yOZr9Nh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WQbmNI2h.jpg


After grinding and initial planishing.

https://i.imgur.com/icmMXLIh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/565tAf5h.jpg