Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
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I looked and looked for a date code correct 350 and could not find one. The engine in our donor was a replacement and not correct. We elected to buy a GM crate 350 long block and just fit all the correct stuff to it. The PS pump, compressor, intake, carb, etc....are all date code correct. The carb was rebuilt/restored by Sean Murphy (SMI). He not only rebuilds it, but re-plates and refinishes everything to original condition. |
Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
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Eric continues to work the cab. Interior body work and hole cut for cargo light switch. Epoxy sealer followed by inner roof and exterior primer and then first exterior guide coat
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Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
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Eric wanted to get the holes drilled for the headliner while it was in primer and not after color. It also is way easier to deal with while it's still on the rotisserie. So I came by after work today and interrupted the body work to help get the headliner pre fit.
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Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
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I have read the threads and reviewed Brothers' how to guide for installation of the headliner:
http://blog.brotherstrucks.com/headliner-installation/ We spent more than a little bit of time discussing different ways to do it. Here's how we elected to handle it. (We are very lucky to be able to invert the cab). The decision was made not to try and cut square holes in the cab roof for the plastic tabs. The tabs were cut off the trim. We centered the headliner and fixed it with a couple of pieces of tape. Next we identified our center line and idealized the position of the trim strips and marked/drilled the front middle screw hole (1). Shaped the front trim toward the corners and marked/drilled the front corners (2). Then we moved to the back middle and marked/drilled(3) and worked those pieces forward (4) mirroring our steps on the front. We were left to work out the slack in the middle. You don't want to be left short and in fact in our case we had to remove a bit of the bottom trim on both sides to accommodate the final screws (5). Because it is flexible trim we screwed it down as we went and pulled our lines straight. All will be removed to continue paint work. The plan is to use trim or heavy duty construction style adhesive in dots at the clip locations (yellow arrows). With the rotisserie we can place adhesive and sandbag it over night to hopefully get a solid result. |
Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
That is a good idea I never thought of, do do it upside down while still on the rotisserie. I have done a few and it sure is hard on the neck looking up doing all of the holes.
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Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
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Big thanks as always to Jeff (chip flyer) for our SPID. He's always great with insight as well as providing a top notch service. Also picked up a bag for the jack tools from Kevin (AASmedic)-another great board member produced product.
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Eric has spent the last couple of weeks getting everything super smooth. Turns out we needed the time to sort out the paint color. We always were going to do a dark blue truck. I also felt like we would tweak the factory color a little bit to sweeten it up a little and make it deeper and less Crayola. It took 12 spray outs to get there. Eric thought the growing pyramid of disappointment was funnier than I did.
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Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
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We went through the original 69 dark blue (which sprayed out more of a Hawaiian blue than what I see when I see original paint blue 69s). We also sprayed out blues from Porsche, Mercedes, Volvo and two other GM colors, some of which were close enough to modify and respray. In the end it was 1963 Daytona Blue with a little extra black. I could write a small book on this color process, but I'll spare you. Just know that in the end, I'm super tickled with it. Eric finished prep, sprayed sealer and painted the firewall. I cannot wait to write on it.
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Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
It looks great! Almost black in the pics....
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Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
Looks like black in the pics. Must be like midnight blue. I was going to paint my Chevelle that color.
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It looks good either way.
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Great progress!!
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Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
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One of the side projects for this build has been replicating the compressor decal. Got the finished product today. All of the reproduction pieces available are different degrees of wrong. Either wrong color or font or part number and none of them have a unit code of course. Our original decal was so nice, we just went about copying it.
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Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
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Another thing we did...just for fun...was to reproduce invoice/shipping docs and a window sticker with Jared at VintageCorrect.com. Not as a means to show false provenance...because I've well chronicled this truck's story. But more for something fun to have at a show. Also since we know that this truck is a November truck-but we have no way to know the exact build date-it's fun to make this truck's ship date our Dad's birthday. 11/11.
Plus I think it's a ton of fun to think about/figure out how these trucks came to be from the assembly line to the dealer's lot. Bickerstaff Chevrolet was a small dealership in our very small (one red light) hometown of Buena Vista, GA. Hard to believe that Buena Vista had a Ford or Chevrolet dealership ever...but it had both throughout a good portion of the last century through the 1970's. Both were pretty much done by the time the 80s rolled around, but Bickerstaff could have definitely handled this truck in late 1968. (Though I'm not sure who in Buena Vista would have ordered this particular jewel--too many bells and whistles)...but like our SPID, it at least exists in the realm of possibility. ;) |
Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
That's pretty damn cool! Good work.
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Awesome work guys! Cant wait to see that dark blue in the sunlight
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Nice reproductions! $4700 would have been a lot in 1968
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Where do you get this stuff reproduced?
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I used to have a good sign shop I used. They reproduced a lot for me. But they sold out to a big chain brand. It's against their policy to reproduce anything because of liability. They even deleted my graphics file. Service is a thing of the past.
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I noticed that Steven (smbrouss70) had posted in his Blazer build thread about his windshield leaking: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...626978&page=15
I felt bad for him because I love his Blazer and he had to leave it home from a show because of rain. But my understanding is that they were supposed to leak. Why else would they put a drain in the dash? ;) |
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A lot of work lately but not all of it yields a solid update. Eric continues to work the cab. Not many more days on the rotisserie because as it makes some areas easy to access...it gets in the way of others. Before it comes off though, we wanted to take advantage of it for installing the headliner and spraying the undercoating. Eric got color, clear and a polish on the interior roof panels in preparation for placing the headliner.
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As previously stated we did not cut the square holes for the trim clips...the plan had been to use adhesive in those areas. We did some bench tests today on a couple of construction adhesives and an epoxy putty. None of them performed in a way they made us comfortable. All along Eric said it would be screws...and in the end that is what we did. It made me sick because it is obviously a non factory situation. But the trim has to suck up tight and it does...and it looks good. I can't have it sagging or falling. We used construction adhesive under the headliner itself (it can sit inverted for a day or so to fully cure). We placed four additional screws total. They were placed on the long runs between the center and corner screws (2 on the front trim and 2 on the back trim). We got matching round/countersunk Phillips head screws in stainless and carefully countersunk them to match the others. I still don't know if I'd cut the square holes if I could go back...maybe I just need to get a factory headliner cab next time.
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I've collected a few pics of undercoating from low mileage trucks. I initially thought that it was only on upper trim level trucks, but that's not the case. It's application as you might imagine is highly variable. Here's a good pic that shows how far it extends toward the truck's midline on one particular truck. It's a screen grab taken by Steve Hafner from the video of the 80-mile '70 C-10 that was on YouTube some time back. You can see that it is applied post assembly and looks like someone just reached under the truck and made a few passes. Joe (Joesjunk) graciously took some shots of his trucks and sent them along too. They showed a similar pattern. I didn't want to be that messy with it. You can see they had overspray on the cab mount and frame. Eric taped it up and tried to do it the way they might if they had six months to churn out a truck instead of 60 seconds. He also started masking the finished portion of the interior too. She comes off the rotisserie tomorrow in order to prep for the rest of the interior paint.
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The firewall got buffed and the cab came off the rotisserie today. It was protecting the last bit of orange in the jams. That'll be gone soon. Eric will begin the final prep on the floor and get the rest of it sealed up and colored up and back on the frame. I was clued into the tire crayon by Keith Seymore. That's definitely what they used. This is a St. Louis truck and the factory markings seem more prolific and consistent from that plant than others. I tried to replicate the style and handwriting from the St. Louis examples that are on the board and that I've collected. If you've missed it and are interested here's a link to one of the factory markings threads: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=591402
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Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
Looks like the real deal- nice work
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Nice!! I’ll bet Keith would give your handwriting an “A”
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Looks really good.
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Interior color and clear. Phillips pan head filler bolts in bench seat mounting positions as indicated in the assembly manual for A50 bucket seat trucks and well illustrated by Mel in this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562904 Of the original paint trucks I've seen in person, it seems the high hump was just laid in the cab during painting...leaving a ring of primer on the floor. That's what we did here.
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Re: 1969 K10 CST Full Restoration
I like your attention to detail. It's looking good. Keep it up!
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