Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
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More backtracking pics...:waah:
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
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Cleaning up the firewall.
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A few more shots of the progress. I bet it took 15 small coats of filler to get it this flat, and it’ll take another 5 before it’s ready for high build. The last pic the primer was still wet.
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
I need to get my cowl back on so that I can close in the wire gutter. It looks so damn good! lol
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Nice work! Don’t mind the back tracking at all. Pics tell the story,lots of time and effort invested, keep it coming!
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
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I usually keep my eyes out for C10 deals on Craigslist just in case. On a Sunday night I checked and found a complete short bed for $900. about 50 miles away. Since it was late I just sent an email, saying I wanted to buy it and I’d call him in the morning at 9. When I called him at 9 I was already near his house with money in hand. I figured it’d be an easy resell if I end up not using it. It didn’t hurt that it was the colors that I hope to paint my truck....
The oak tree in the front of my garage is the easiest way to drop the cab back on the chassis.... plus it makes a cool picture! |
Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Looking awesome dude. Stance is real nice.
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Awesome! That's funny, I want that colour scheme too! :lol:
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Thanks guys, I'm pretty sure in all of these pics the truck is aired out. Meaning it won't ride at that height. I like it where it's at also which means I probably should raise the bed floor a few inches like gringoloco did in the rear, and cut pockets in the lower control arms up front. On the other hand, I'd really like to drive this thing instead of wrench on it for ever.
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Looking good, you just saved 2 weeks or more getting the bed, smokin hot deal too....Nice shoe horn fit with the motor and trans...Don't forget your your 3 point seat belts.
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$900 for a complete shortbed in that shape is a steal. Is it OEM or repro steel?
Either way, great find and great stance. |
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I reused 30 yr old seat belts from a 90's pick up, I have also changed out the bench seat. Went with a pair of seats from a 93 Caprice.
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Brian, I always love reading through your build post. Great project and always great pictures. Did you purchase the exhaust hangers locally? There are several of us at or near the same stage in our builds and it sure helps with motivation and questions. Keep up the great work.
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Your firewall came out really nice.
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So ready to see this truck complete!! With 400 horse its go move down the road in a hurry!
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Hah! You and me both! Sometimes it seems like it may never be back on the road. Every time I make some good progress some other fire has to be put out. For example, last Thanksgiving day our oven crapped out 1 hour into cooking the turkey which of course means a full kitchen remodel. Then when I'm wrapping up that job, my daughter became engaged and decided her wedding was going to be at our house and the reception needed to be in our pole barn. So now I'm building a giant carport to put all the stuff in it that was in the pole barn... It never ends! For cryin' out loud... when can a guy get some alone time with his truck!!:lol:
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Lol i do understand. I got a 2000 camaro z28 car im go be chasing 10s on motor here soon. Thats one project.
Another one is my tow rig.... its running but it needs some updating. Thats just the beginning..... |
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Now that I've got a shortie, my emergency brake cables are too long. Anyone have a solution that is fairly clean looking? I know I can use a cable stop but don't know If there's a stronger way. I don't have a proper crimper for something this big, and smashing it with a hammer will disfigure it badly.
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- Bought a cable for a shortbed -Started installing all of the cables and hardware that the truck had originally and found out that the shortbed cable still wouldn't work because the combination of all of the loops and hooks took too much length out of it. - Eliminated one or two of the shortest retainers that pull the cable towards the outside of the frame. - Shortened the one long rod that pulls the cable towards the front passenger corner until the adjustment on the front parking brake cable was towards the max amount of tension. At first I had it to where it was in the middle of the threads on the parking brake cable, but found out that it takes quite a bit of tightening of that nut to get enough tension for the parking brake lever to get enough tension in the cables for the parking shoes to actually grab so I had to shorten the long front rod again. I can take some pictures tomorrow. Because of where my mufflers and custom trans crossmember ended up, I had to do a couple other modifications because the cables were touching the mufflers or the crossmember. |
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Thanksgiving morning (4 months ago) I had high hopes of firing the motor for the first time. I had my brother in law and his family coming over for dinner with us, and thought it would be great to have a second set of eyes on the first attempt. It cranked over just fine but wouldn't bust off. The first problem I found was a slap your forehead moment. I had previously installed an aftermarket air intake and filter and left the plastic bag on the element. You know, to keep it clean... Bonehead forgot to take off the bag so the pretty new straight element looked like a dried prune with a few cranks of the motor. After we had a good laugh at my expense and remedied that situation I gave it another go. Same thing... good crank with no fire. At that point I determined there was a nice spark, so the remaining possibility would be fuel or lack thereof. I had pressure to the mechanical pump on the back of the intake manifold, so my next conclusion was stuck injectors. I pulled the intake off and started the removal process. Of course they were not gonna just pop out like I hoped, so I sprayed some lube into the injector holes in hopes to soak in and make it easier to remove. While I had the intake off I looked down the runners to see if there was any indication of valve coking. To my surprise there was some buildup on the intake valve and runner. This is a downside of having Direct Injection, since there is no fuel in the air charge entering the cylinder, there is no cleaning effect to the intake valve. As combustion occurs, some gunk can blow by the intake valve before it fully seats. Sprint9 had warned me of this possibility since he has a 2014 Silverado and went through this problem already. He easily persuaded me to add a catch can to my system to assist with providing clean air to the intake and cylinder
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Good move on the filter sherlock.... And, Oh, you mean back when we used to have people over when it was safe? Oh I already forgot about those days. ;)
Check this video out, the guy is funny but cool DIY to stop a cable end without special tools (besides the lead). Just a thought. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ysd8JkWclmc . |
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Pulled my injectors last night, wasn't as difficult as I thought it was going to be. After I get the new injectors I'll give it another go and maybe I'll hear that sweet rumble we all crave after so much down time. ;)
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I hope she fires right up this time. I cant wait to see a video of it making some sweet noise! :metal:
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What do you think about running additives to keep her clean being direct injection?
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
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Here are some pictures of my setup. In the last picture you see the brackets I fabbed to drop the rear brake cables to clear the mufflers. I slid some sections of rubber hose over the cable where it touches crossmembers.
Attachment 1996057 Attachment 1996058 Attachment 1996059 Attachment 1996061 |
Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Thanks man. I see what you are talking about. Your truck is so clean! I can only imagine how awesome a lift would be at the house. Glad to hear that the full length pipes kept it quiet enough for a conversation in the truck, that's what I'm aiming for.
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Re: Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10
Well, no luck. Here's what I did since last attempt.
I cleaned out the intake runners in the head and the tops of the intake valves of deposits, it's now way cleaner. I bought a set of OEM re-man injectors that have been cleaned with multiple ultrasonic baths, tested for electrical shorts, back flushed and leak tested, and flow matched and calibrated, reassembled with new seals and filters. Yesterday I got everything back together fairly easily. I wired up the fuel pump and ran it until gas flowed out of the fitting on top of the motor. Next I pulled the spark plugs, attached the fuel line back to the feed line on top of the motor, got power to the ecm and spun the motor over for about 15 seconds. My thinking in doing this was to get oil flowing through it and also to hopefully pressurize the fuel rails so the injectors would spray fuel sooner than later. I don't really know if any of these things happened. One thing I did notice when turning the motor over was the plug wires would arc if a ground was close by. That little bit of life got me excited to think it was gonna fire up...:lol: All that was left to do was to put the spark plugs back in and crank her over. (After a quick prayer of course) I turned it over for about 5 seconds and nothing... waited a few more seconds and gave it a longer crank. This time I went for probably 12-15 seconds and I saw smoke. The ground wire shrouding from the battery to the frame was beginning to melt, it wasn't really the proper gauge so I should've known better to crank it that long. So today I'll add a proper gauge ground wire from the battery to the motor this time and give it another go. How would I know if the injectors are adding fuel? Any other ideas on how to get this thing started? |
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What was all done to the tune/ecm? Do you have any codes?
One thing you could do is unhook an injector and hook up a noid light to see if its pulsing the injector. |
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I had to look up what a noid light is if that gives you an idea my about understanding of fuel injected engines. I watched a good video on testing injectors and I do have a test light so that'll be my next task. Today I fixed the lousy ground from the battery with a legit battery cable from the donor truck. Also used a full size Optima red top car/ truck battery instead of a Harley Davidson battery. Gave it another go and again no fire... at least this time I din't dump a few ounces of tranny fluid out of the slip yoke hole. I found a cap that fit snug and pushed it on.:dohh: Now that most of the weight is on the chassis do you think I'm good to go get a driveshaft made? Since dinner wasn't ready yet and I needed some good vibes to gain motivation I put a spitshine on the truck and cleaned up the wheels. For the past few months I have not had the bags inflated since I needed to relocate the manifold. Not wanting to let the trucks weight rest on the collapsed bags, I stuck some pieces of 2x4 between the lower control arms and the cross member. It looked pretty goofy up in the air all this time so I yanked those out and replaced them with shorter ones. It will be way easier to work on it now too. Looks way better now. The primer actually looked pretty good after I wiped a few layers of dust off it. I took these pics today. |
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That does look good! That should be plenty of motivation to keep you going. I know its motivating me on my build:metal:
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Love those wheels. What kind of scanner do you have? Bluetooth obdII dongle that you connect your phone to? If so, and your not seeing any connection with ignition on, I'd be checking all your wiring. If we weren't in a quarantine I'd drive over and help.... Corona B.S.
Maybe start with power to all the right pins in PCM. Check all the ground pins too. It's easier to grab a needle, longer the better, and alligator clips on it, DC meter that puppy. LT1Swap.com for pinouts. Keep us updated . |
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