Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

so heres my plan for the floor. 2x6s bolted down using riv nut inserts. looks fun (not). well see how the rest goes..heres one little board down. want to get this row down so i can mount my air tank here...

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

got the front section done and the tank mounted. think i will start running all the air lines now

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

Looks like that should work! Keep pluggin' away at it..... :)

LockDoc

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

got most of the airlines ran, just need to work on the front which i will be doing tomorrow. have been working on cleaning up and routing the wiring in the back, mainly for the compressors. also got the fuel hose buttoned up, and you know what that means! slapped some gas in it...and it fired right up! i have a video but need to figure out how to post it.

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

heres how i did the compressor wiring, i just need to tap the power wire into the truck fuse box and run to dual 8 gauge wires up to the battery and its done.

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

Looking good ! Nice work Kev

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

thanks!

dropped my old driveshaft off yesterday and hoping to have it back by the end of the week. getting oh so close to a trip around the block.

I have been messing around with the coolant and it just doesn't sit right with me. I put coolant through the radiator and the truck was getting hot it seemed. so I drained it, and pulled the upper hose and filled it up through there with the trucking running. I filled it up til it wouldn't take anymore, then topped off the radiator. the gauge seems high? I plugged my torque lite into the OBD2 port and it shows 188/90. that seems about right with an LS. I just don't see why this gauge shows so high?

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

That trip around the block will feel amazing after all the work! I don’t know if the same problem exists with these trucks but at the Mustang shop I work at we have issues with the aftermarket sending units causing the gauge to read way higher than it should. It’s frustrating as hell. Sometimes a different brand resolves the gauge problem.

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

its a new stock sender (i drilled and tapped the passenger side head to use a stock style one). i mean, tbh, if this is "normal" looking for our style trucks then i really dont care. but from reading around and looking at other peoples gauges it seems 180-190 should be right in the middle somewhere. i tested the wire by unplugging it (went all the way cold), then grounding it (went all the way hot) so i know the wiring is good. i think i might still have the old sender off the 305 i took it off of, i could try and put that in and see what happens

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

oh, also got my driveshaft back today. was a pretty penny but if works out then who cares lol. slapping some quick paint on it, hopefully can get it in tomorrow then get the yokes brush painted. i stuck with the stock 1310 u joints, and the driveshaft guy suggested a slip shaft installed since it has air ride. :smoke:

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

Maybe this is the cause?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=840259

Where does the needle rest at when the ignition is off?

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

well, when I cycle the key on, then back off, it's sitting a little bit before the C. so it seems right. I need to fix my cooling issue I guess before dialing in the gauge. IF the torque lite is right, today it was reading about 195 and stayed there.. but the gauge was in the red. I'm having a hard time getting air out the engine.. I think.

today I got it up to temp and began squeezing the upper and lower hoses with the cap off to see if the air will purge. this time the upper hose finally started getting warm, but the lower stayed cold. the coolant inside the radiator was also cold. but the drive side tank of the radiator was really hot, passenger side was cold. it's odd.

this past weekend I put a new water pump and 187 degree thermo stat (old pump was leaking from the bearing). hopefully will have time to play with it tomorrow and try a different method of getting air out of the engine

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

also, does the top radiator hose have to be perfectly level? I felt like it didn't start getting warm until I pushed it back and kinda down. the passenger side of the hose was hot but the driver side wasn't... if you go back to page 36 post #888 you can see a picture of how it sits on the shroud

after I was squeezing it and pushing it down I felt like that's when the entire hose started getting warm

oh, also, I have my overflow hose just pointing down and running into nothing. should I make an overflow bottle for it to run to?

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

so, I drained out all the coolant. pulled the upper hose, filled the water pump til it topped off. put the hose back on. filled the radiator. ran the truck with the cap off and it tops out at about 197 and holds. truck gauge reads almost all the way hot. my issue is still the same. upper hose does get warm, but lower hoses is cold. driver side tank is warm, passenger side cold... like the t stat isnt opening to allow coolant to flow THROUGH the radiator. truck doesn't over heat at all but I feel even at 197 the stat isnt opening. the thermostat is a new 187 degree stat. this is all driveway no open road testing. but my 2002 avalanche with a 5.3 gets to just at 210 no matter if it's sitting there or driving on the highway.

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

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If you have a meat thermometer run it with the cap off and check the antifreeze temperature when it gets up to operating temperature. If you don't think it is getting hot enough to open the thermostat put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator.

LockDoc

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

I stuck my finger in the radiator and it's cold. that's a great idea on the cardboard idea!

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

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See if this thread has any info you can use....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=513897

LockDoc

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

Judging from the gauge being around the "C" mark and then reading just below HOT when the truck isn't running hot I would say there is an issue with the guage.
When you said you used a stock sender was it a stock sender for the truck as opposed to stock for the engine. The guage requires a specific sender to be accurate.

These threads may help you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=587190

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=726700

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

thanks I just ordered up the part number in that thread, hope it corrects the stock gauge. I tried to run the truck up to temp today with cardboard blocking the radiator... but it still didn't get passed 197. I did notice the coolant in the radiator got warm after a while, but the lower hoses never got warm at all. I'm thinking maybe I need to get it on the road and see what happens, or switch to a 160 degree thermo stat

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

not much done today while waiting on a few things to come in. added 2 gallons of trans fluid, will top it off when I start it up the next time. need to add some brake fluid and bleed the brakes. I pulled the rear diff cover and damn that oil was dark and ugly. letting it drain over night and will get that back put together with some new gear oil. oh, also ordered up a 2.5" exhaust pipe kit with flowmaster flowfx mufflers. going to try my hand at making an exhaust

anyone wanna take a guess at what gear ratio it is? all I know is it's a 12 bolt..

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

well, got a lot of stuff done lately. have all the fluids topped off and ready. had to order a trans crossmember for the exhaust to clear. got the exhaust welded up and in, although it's not how I wanted to run it. couldn't get any clearance after the TA crossmember so I had to dump them right after. waiting on the e brake rebuild stuff to come in, and need to tackle the front air bag fitting swap. pulling the PTC and putting in compression.

tried to start it up after the exhaust and it runs like crap and shuts off. I did leave the o2 sensors in while welding the exhaust, maybe I fried them? no idea what else it could be... only thing different from last start up to now is the exhaust. I was probably an inch or less away from the sensor where I welded.

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

There should be a couple of 2 digit numbers stamped on the outer edge of the ring gear. 1st should be a "3X" or "4X" followed by a "1X".

Eg; a 4:10 ratio would be like "41 10"
a 3.42 ratio would be like "38 11"

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

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Check post #2 in this thread. There is a ratio chart there.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=578793

LockDoc

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

damn, slapped the cover back on right after that picture lol. oh well.

swapped new o2 sensors and same issue. while it was running I unplugged the MAF and it ran great. plugged it back in and still ran great. idk if it's the sensor going bad, but I took the battery disconnect off. I feel like maybe the constant disconnect is messing with the computer. just throwing ideas out there, who knows

Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!
 

I have a disconnect on my '03 Chevy Suburban. I have to use it all the time and so far no problems with it. I suspect it has to do a re-learn each time but I haven't noticed any abnormal operation. You might try some electrical contact cleaner on the MAF connector.

LockDoc