Re: Converting factory AC to use R134a
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Truck is at the AC shop getting a charge right now. I will report how well it works as soon as I know.
Here's some more photos from the project: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...4&d=1435690255 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...9&d=1436202199 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...0&d=1436202199 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1436464023 Attachment 1423814 Attachment 1423815 Attachment 1423816 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1436464023 Attachment 1423817 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1436464023 |
Re: Converting factory AC to use R134a
It works!
AC guy says I could add an electric fan to the condenser if I want it colder. It should be 100 or more next week, that should be a good test. |
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Interested in a PF condenser, filter/dryer, new hoses/ o rings, A6 replacement and re-calibrated POA valve for a 1972 Chevrolet truck which will be converted to R134. Is there anything else needed when converting? Thanks |
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yea guys have ben telling me to join this forum. hopefully I can help some people out
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I didn't realize that was you, either! Good to see you here. Do you have an opinion on whether the A6 does better with PAG or POE oil when cleaned well then converted to R134a?
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Jimbosprint,
Is this Drier- 21-4215A $65.00 from your post #20? That's the look I'm after. Quote:
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Is there any disadvantage to using ester? I've cleaned it best I can, but if ester works just as well why not avoid incompatibility and just use ester?
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This is what I was told by an ACDelco engineer...." It is hygroscopic and it will release the water under compression in the compressor and cause erosion. There's a reason none of the OE's use ester."
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Re: Converting factory AC to use R134a
I've decided to go with Delco PAG-150. Evaporator has been professionally cleaned and pressure tested. Drier is new. Can I just rinse out the hoses, condenser, and compressor? I'ver read in a few places that electrical contact cleaner is a good solvent for old R12/mineral oil and it's cheap. Thoughts?
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Im starting to collect parts for my K20 Suburban A/C and have to get a large amount of hose to run to the rear unit. I was wondering if anyone has just cut off the fittings for the compressor/condenser/POA from the old lines and just used hose clamps instead? If I do order new hoses I hate to have to cut them in half to add the T fitting that just uses hose clamps anyway.
Is there a conversion schrader valve kit I need to install to the old muffler and valve to use 134? |
Re: Converting factory AC to use R134a
Looks really nice!
I got mine working today after several weeks of work. Complete disassembly and cleaning or flushing of every component. Had evaporator professionally repaired where there were a few leak "tracks." It came back spotless and pressure-tested. New O-rings everywhere. Calibrated the POA to 26.5psi (very easy as it turns out). Stock 45 year old A6 was rinsed way too many times with expensive ACDelco PAG150 until it was clean. New receiver-drier at the very last moment, then obsessive-compulsive evacuation which I left for 3 days. Final one hour evacuation and recharged her today. Have three 12oz cans in there at the moment and I think it needs just a touch more. Original sticker on the compressor says 3.25lbs R12. I'm using 80% which comes to 41.6oz of R135, and 3 cans provides 36oz. At this point the test drive showed 40 degrees at the driver side vent, but by the time I was done it was only in the upper 80's here. One thing I found interesting, and I'd like to know if this is a useful way of "seeing" that you are finally full of refrigerant: My POA is set to 26.5. As I filled with each successive can, the low side would "take" the can, then pump down to 26.5. After 3 cans it's still at 26.5 on the low side, and 225-240 on the high side. I'm thinking that I need a little more R134 in there so that the low side is just "dipping" into that 26.5 setting? It sits there like a rock right now. What do you experts think? |
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Just a good rule of thumb. Is the system getting cold and is it condensating around the POA valve. If so you should be really close.
Outside temp has a lot to do with how well it will cool also and how much air your moving. Take a look at the chart for outside air temps.:chevy: http://blazerforum.com/forum/attachm...ssurechart.jpg |
Re: Converting factory AC to use R134a
Great thread! I am getting ready to make my AC work again and have a couple of questions. (factory air 70 C20)
I will be needing a new compressor and a new dryer. I assume I need to change out the o-rings to R134 compatible. I need to calibrate the POA or have it done. I think I also need to have adapters for the connections, Do I need to replace all the hoses? Anything else? I'm open to suggestions. Of course flushing the entire system will be done. |
Re: Converting factory AC to use R134a
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That's the chart I was using! It was 90f in the shop and after 36oz of R134 I had 240/27psi. And yes... there was a little frost...
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borrowed my brothers HB gauge set and looks like I need adapter too. Any recommendations?
Picklito, what was your procedure on cleaning and recalibrating the POA? thanks |
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Thanks |
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I just got a reply back from Classic Auto Air for a kit which includes the Saden-style compressor, brackets, condenser, hoses, filter/drier and hardware to update and run R134. $800 + $190 for a rebuilt and calibrated POA valve and $60 for a expansion valve. Does this sound reasonable or can I save a few putting something together myself. Sounds like everything from the firewall forward.
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