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i can see 'um now:thumbs:
looks good, you got the tilt hood figured out completely? |
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Looks good..
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Looks like the host server where the pics are located is moving today. My pics aren't in my gallery there anymore must have gotten crossed up. I'll reload them again and fix the links when i get home today. |
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Hey HotRod,You are doing amazing work.Very inspirational.
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not to hijack....but.....Dino, how about more info on those drop arms, looks to be about 2 inches? what is the vertical rod on there? did you ever run them? how did they ride/drive?
very cool idea, i don't know how i missed them before guess i'm :uhmk::lol: now i want to hit up the local pull-a-part and get me an extra x-member and some lower arms to modify:metal: |
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any updates?
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Z'd the rear frame today and made 2 lower links for one of the rear axles. For the rear Z, I cut the frame 2" behind the cab and kicked the entire rear frame up 6". And for the lower links I used 1.5" DOM with 1/4" wall thickness and some poly bushings I had already on hand. Need more bushings to make the rest of the suspension links but the rear suspensions will be a three link set-up for each axle with a upper wishbone. Lower links are fully welded solid, the center bushing in the upper link will be threaded for pinion angle adjustment.
This week I hope to mount the t-case and the forward rear axle and install the two lower links on this forward axle. |
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cool project. I can't wait to see this one done.
It sounds like you've got a lot of experience with the whole tandem thing, but just a quick question from an "old truck driver," you will have a way to take the transfer case out of gear, right? I just know from experience driving the big trucks on dry pavement with the differential lock engaged is like driving a 4x4 on pavement with 4wd engaged. Very nice work you're doing. I'm subscribed to this one. |
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if they are both open diffs, bind shouldn't be a problem, should it?
I thought the diff lock on big trucks not only engaged but also locked each diff, like an air locker in a jeep? |
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yeah but the difference with the 4x4 analogy is that the front and rear wheels take very different paths and have major differences in the amount of area the wheels cover due to the front wheels turning side to side, if you don't turn as drastic with the front tires the bind is less severe. the problem comes when the front tires want to rotate more than the rear for the vehicle to cover the same ground binding the t-case. I think the tandems should be following a much closer path and be covering mostly the same area. but I'm in no way positive of this...
but you could use an all-time 4 wheel drive t-case, they have a built in differential |
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5 Attachment(s)
update
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5 Attachment(s)
few more
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:metal:
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I like the 3x2 intake and the early oil tube!
For the "oddball" approach you're taking to this truck, did you consider a 348 or 409? |
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??? the rear drive shaft if i missed it sorry hows it going to fit
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I've built a very short stub assembly that amounts to not much more than two yokes and a carrier bearing. This assembly will mount to the forward axle tube to keep the d-shaft nice a tight. Then one d-shaft feeding from t-case to the stub, then another d-shaft from the stub to the rearmost axle. The stub is already built and I checked for clearnace already, it does clear even at this max drop. Obvioulsey ride height will be above this and even greater clearance. Theoretically the set-up I have in mind should cancel out d-line vibes and technically should work flawlessly with no d-line vib's at any ride height. We'll see if theoretical and reality match up.
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I 'm eager to see how the drive shafts turn out & work myself. A buddy of mine wants to build a tandem axle pickup & we've thought of a bunch of ways to make it work. A divorced NP203 would be a better chose for doing a tandem axle if you were planning to have both axle drive the truck. I say this because the NP203 t-cases were a full time t-case with a differential in them allowing the front & rear dive shafts to turn at different speeds, like when turning, but the front & rear drive lines could also be locked together in 4wd & 4-LO. The down side of the NP203 is they are a chain driven t-case, are about twice the size of the NP205 & weigh about twice as much too. With a Np205 I'd drive it with the t-case in 2wd & shift into 4wd when the extra traction is needed, adding ARB air lockers to the two rear axles would give you the ability to turn all four tires at once no mater what and the ultimate traction.
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This is an great build, you have a lot of talent and skill. I will follow this one. Keep up the good work.
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