Originally Posted by RichardJ (Post 7716642)

>> I set the lash too tight, and if the lash is too tight then there's no buffer between the lifter and rocker arm and that's how you get a flat cam correct?<<

Buffer? What the hell do you think you're talking about?
If the valves are too tight, you run the risk of holding the valves off the seat or not letting the springs hold the valves tight against the seat for good heat transfer. That can lead to burnt valves.
If the valves are too loose, the valve train is noisy and really loose, hammering causing excessive wear.
The most important aspect of valve lash is to allow for heat expansion and not reach either of the extremes mentioned above. Hydraulic lifters self adjust to allow for expansion, never need readjusting and are much quieter.

Stop trying to use valve lash as a tuning aid.

The cam is not causing the rich mixture. The rings are not causing the rich mixture. A flat cam lobe is not causing a rich mixture.
You don't wipe out 16 cam lobes at the same time. If all the adjuster nuts are at approximately the same height, you don't have a cam problem. You did just adjust them. I have to assume you adjusted them correctly.

Stop flitting from one wild guess to the next.

Get rid of the vacuum advance. adjust idle down to 600 and see if the idle mixture screws are responsive to adjustments in or out from the 2 turns you set them at.
I'm making the assumption that your 2 turns out is a setting and not an actual adjustment. Use your vacuum gauge and a tach.

>>36 total all in at 3000 rpm.<<
Who cares. At this point it is more important to know at what rpm mech advance begins.

Originally Posted by midniteblues (Post 7716645)

Dude bro...your lash is fine .15-.18 is ok but ya gotta remember a good warm engine things will expand some and loosen up.

Its a shame somebody cant masterlock up your internals and keep you out of the innards!

VERY BIG QUESTIONS HERE.

Did you replace that oe resistor wire properly? Please tell me you did. Gotta feed it the proper 12v juice for that coil and plugs too fire properly and burn all of the cly. Fuel/air charge

Do you have more than enough clean and proper engine to frame to body grounds? If ya feed the plugs the good 12v its gotta have a good clean path to travel out of the block and back too the charge system. Believe it or not bad motor grounding can lead too weak spark and fouled plugs.

If your bowls are "half" way up the sight plug the float level is too high.

You should be able too remove the plug and have no fuel come out of the hole while its running.
Only if you gently rock the truck should it trickle out.
That is a starting point for float level.Start there and adjust the float up during test runs. After you get the plugs too stay clean.

A 750 is big but can be made too work ok.
At this point i would not be concerned with the power valve forget about it for now unless you had a serious back fire.

You need to find what your fuel pressure is. Holleys can take alot but you can still over power the needle and seat.

Can you turn mixure screws all the way in "lightly" seated will it still run without dying out?

Your getting TOO much fuel and also you could not be burning it completely.
Lets be sure you dont have dirt in the needle and seat and good fuel flow.


There is lots of little bits of very good advice in this thread its up too you on what you do with it.

Btw i would give g.o.m the key😁

Originally Posted by Mrturner1 (Post 7716799)

I don't know what wire you're talking about. I was supposed to replace a resistor wire? I had some wiring trouble a while back but that was one of the old wires from the points system that was on it. I didn't think that needed to be replaced because I have HEI now.

Originally Posted by 1969c10joe (Post 7716966)

hey dave thanks i actually forgot about that now mrturner gets to use his multimeter

Originally Posted by webfoot (Post 7716915)

That wire needs replaced. It's designed to lower the voltage so the points don't burn up. Hei needs full 12v, I recommend a relay.

No amount of valve train adjustment is going to make those plugs look good. You need to get the carb off of there and get those floats adjusted, and inspect the needle and seat. You have 4 pages of pretty good advice so far, might be time to take some of it.
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Originally Posted by webfoot (Post 7716915)

That wire needs replaced. It's designed to lower the voltage so the points don't burn up. Hei needs full 12v, I recommend a relay.

No amount of valve train adjustment is going to make those plugs look good. You need to get the carb off of there and get those floats adjusted, and inspect the needle and seat. You have 4 pages of pretty good advice so far, might be time to take some of it.
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Originally Posted by 1969c10joe (Post 7716817)

1you are running rich.2 you have wrong power valve 3your float might need adjustment i dont know holleys im not sure4 check fuel pressure 5 put the other carb on and see if it still runs rich and stops smoking

Originally Posted by 1969c10joe (Post 7717195)

nice what do you think caused that?Btw I said powervalve not jets good idea to write down carb adjustments in a log in case you need to go back

Originally Posted by davepl (Post 7717183)

I still wouldn't pour money into an expensive motor project until you've SUCCESSFULLY built a budget one and it's run for a few thousand miles.

You're still new at this, as we all were at one time. And you're going to make mistakes, as we all did. But make cheaper mistakes. Make them on an old vanilla 350.

Otherwise, all of the mistakes you will inevitably make will be made on expensive parts. Don't think that just because you pay more for the parts that you will somehow rise to the occasion and do flawless work because the parts are expensive. It doesn't work that way.

Try to get your truck to go FAR before you go FAST.