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Re: Trouble codes
Random thoughts, but I'm no mechanic….
Put a stethoscope on each injector to see if they're firing correctly. Pull each plug and ground it and then watch it spark. How do the plugs look? Fuel rail clogged? Bad pressure regulator on the rail? Intake manifold leak? It's been my experience that one bad injector will make your trims on that side look bad…but not misfire multiple cylinders. Good luck with what is probably very frustrating! Wil also, have you run an ohmmeter on your harness to confirm wiring? |
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Make sure all Ignition coil drivers are wired to the correct cylinder. Load test the Coil grounds, I use a Halogen sealed beam headlamp, Then check ALL ECM grounds.....Not many with a E38. Load testing is the ONLY way to truly check a ground. If you need help on test procedures, Let me know. |
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Rob |
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Last night I did a compression check on all 8 cylinders just trying to eliminate any possible mechanical problems. All cylinders were 215+ psi. Friday I will do a smoke test to make sure I don't have any vacuum leaks. If that checks well, I'll start digging into the wiring.... |
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Did you ever take care of that metal-nub that you showed me the Manual pictures of?
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Load testing is very straight forward. I use a headlamp because you can SEE if the ground is poor, If the lamp is bright, the ground is good. If the lamp is yellow/brown or doesn't come on....the ground is poor. Test it straight to the battery first to get a feel on how bright & color the light is. The diagram should help, Hook one side of the Lamp to the positive side of the battery. With a suitable probe & lead hooked to the other side of the Lamp......Probe the ground circuit your testing, This will load that circuit. What I mean by "Suitable Probe" is Don't stretch out the terminal in the connector your probing. Or damage the plastic connector. |
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CB thank you for posting the "load test".... i will file this away for future use. as will others i am sure.
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Quick update guys. I messed around with the truck all weekend, with very little luck. Did a compression check, all cylinders 220 psi +/- 5. Did a smoke check, could not find any vacuum leaks. Stonewalled. Totally scratching my head.... I had set up an appt to get the exhaust put back on yesterday. I almost cancelled it since the truck would hardly run, but since I had taken the day off, I went ahead and called a rollback and had it hauled to the exhaust shop. I had planned on putting on some new Magnaflows that I had laying around, but they wouldn't fit, :(. I had wanted to switch the Magnaflows because I had read that they sound better with the LS motors, oh well....And with the new crossmember I built for the 6L80 tranny, my electric cutouts weren't working out so well either, :(. So I just told the exhaust guy to reconnect the Flowmasters that were on there (50 series) and at least I could do some tuning without getting fumigated. OK, so we get everything hooked up and I start the truck up just to see how it sounds....and to my surprise, I like it! And to my even bigger suprise, I hook the HPTuners scanner up and all the issues I was having with misfires and crazy Fuel Trims were gone!!!! Other than running a little rich, the idle is good and it's not throwing any codes. So the Moral of the story is, NEVER do any tuning on a FI motor unless you have the exhaust on and don't believe everything you read on the internet, :D. I'm eating some serious humble pie, I would never have thought that not having the exhaust on would have created the "symptoms" that I was seeing going on with my motor. Go figure. I did learn a lot through this experience, and will be a better "tuner" because of it. Now I have to undue some things I did when I was chasing a problem that wasn't there, :lol:.
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Interesting. I don't think I realized you were tuning running open headers? So lets see the exhaust!
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What cut out where you using? And why didn't you like them?
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yea I didn't realize you didn't have full exhaust either. I am guessing you were getting some air back in and causing the o2 sensors to freak out so to speak. Glad it is coming together much better now.
good luck Dave |
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When looking for a short that keeps blowing a new fuse, temp. wire a flasher can to the fuse posts, when it stops "clicking" and you have isolated the short, you have a good circuit, now replace the fuse
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Sweet!
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I'm still getting a couple of trouble codes but I think I might just need to delete them out. Here they are:
[] P057C - (SES) (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature) [] P0621 - Generator L-Terminal Circuit (Pending) (History) (Current) (Immature) [] P0622 - Generator F-Terminal Circuit (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature) [] P2537 - Ignition Switch Accessory Position Circuit Low (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature) I'm running a 2 wire alternator off of a 2004 Chevy truck (140A). I had it checked and it checked out as "good". Any thoughts? |
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The p057c code came up as an SES for failed cruise control module. I'm guessing you might have something wired off the TCC/brake switch incorrectly (lol I know you and JorgenSC have gone back and forth on diagrams for this in the other thread). can't find anything on the p2537 |
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